Category Archives: Imported – Wine Review

Imported Wine – New Release

Wholesaler tasting: 19th May 2013

Several wholesalers recently banded together to put on a trade tasting of some of their imported wines. Whilst my focus of the tasting was the Rhone Valley, I took the opportunity to look at a number of different wines.

Unusually for me, I have not pointed the wines. The format of the tasting did not really lend itself to a critical analysis of the wines, so my notes are more about my impressions.

  • Wines tasted: 24
  • Wines reviewed: 12

Reviewed

Pommery – Champagne – 2004. A real step up in intensity and penetration compared to the standard NV. The palate is bright and fresh, with grapefruit and melon over subtle complexity from extended lees maturation. This is taut, fine and demands a second sip. Worth saving up to drink (instead of the NV), this is long and focused, the gentle mousse adding to the package.

Pommery – Champagne – Cuvee Louise – 1999. Again, this is a clear step up from the 2004. The sense of presence on the nose is superb. This is a wine that demands attention.  Complex, complete and totally delicious, though the finish is very dry, leaving the palate refreshed and wanting more.

Warwick Estate – Three Cape Ladies – 2010. I like this for the bright primary fruit and supple texture. This is an easy-drinking style that will work well with food. Not overly complex, but there is decent length and persistence. Drink this winter.

Domaine St Damien – Cotes du Rhone – Vielles Vignes – 2011. Lovely perfume to this that I assume comes from a high percentage of grenache. I would go as far as saying that this is a pretty wine. The palate is fresh and juicy, with lovely white pepper running through to the long finish. Not complex, but excellent drinking over the next year or two.

Bastide du Claux – Cotes du Luberon – Le Claux – 2009. More obvious density and structure compared to the St Damien. The palate is dense, yet the balance and mouth-feel make this surprisingly supple and slippery in the mouth. Fine, dusty tannins coat the tongue on the finish making this a great foil to food. Good now, but will also age well in the short term.

Domaine La Colliere – Rasteau – Rouge – 2010. Some perfume to open, with red fruits and a touch of licorice. The palate is quite tight, with the structural components suppressing the fruit characters at present. Savoury tannins round out the package. Give it a couple of years to really hit its straps.

Domaine Les Grands Bois – Cotes du Rhone Villages – Cairanne – Philippine – 2010. Nice balance here of fresh fruit and structural notes. Quite a simple wine that is well suited to a simple pasta meal. This sees no oak.

Domaine Les Grands Bois – Cotes du Rhone Villages – Cairanne – Maximillien – 2010. A more “serious” nose compared to the Philippine, this wine sees some oak treatment. A savoury wine that has spice aromas to complement the fruit. The palate is savoury, spicy and textured. The tannins are remarkably fine, but really close down the fruit on the finish. This is a great each way bet, as it drinks well now, but will also age well for a few years.

Domaine St Damien – Gigondas – Vielles Vignes – 2010. Structured, but with pretty, peppery, spicy fruit peeking out from around the edges. The palate is flooded with pepper and spice. The tannins are plentiful and the acid cuts a swath through the finish. No doubt that this will be an excellent drink, it just needs 5 years to come around.

Vivanco Dinastia – Temperanillo – Reserva – 2005. Lovely nose that combines floral perfume (think violets) and earthy aromas. There are also hints of coconut from the oak that is very attractive. The extra age really makes its presence felt on the palate, which is silky, supple and totally delicious. This is not tremendously complex, but presents a compelling argument to be drunk and enjoyed. The tannins build and make their presence felt on the finish, suggesting that some tapas would only make this even more enjoyable. Better buy a second bottle J.

Condo de San Cristobal – Tinta Fina – 2008. This wine is less compelling than the Vivanco, but this is an unfair comparison as this is tighter and less developed. Opens to show lovely tar and licorice characters. It really needs food to show its best.

O.Fournier – Centauri Blend – 2009. A very interesting and somewhat old-fashioned wine. This is luxuriously dense and delicious, with ripe fruit complemented by quality oak. There is a fair whack of tannins on the finish, but good mouth-feel and texture. This needs 10 years for the fruit to soften and build complexity, but when it gets there, it could be very interesting.

 

Vin Santo

A Boot-Full of Wine – Tasting Notes from Italy

4 March 2011

As a young altar boy, I remember sneaking a taste of the altar wine before mass one day. It counts as my first ever wine! I remember it as being sweet, with a heady perfume. The style of wine was that of a vin santo.

There are many theories as to how vin santo got its name, some no doubt more apocryphal than others, but the widely held belief is that the origin of the name derives from the wine’s association with Eucharistic celebration.

Tuscany and Umbria are the centres of vin santo production, though many other regions around Italy produce their own versions. (The vino santo from Trentino, however, is made from the Nosiola grape, and is a different wine altogether, and usually less oxidised. More on oxidation below.)

Grape varieties used for vin santo are traditionally Trebbiano and Malvasia. (Trebbiano is a fairly neutral variety, and high in acid, much like the Palomino used for sherry in the former but not latter sense.) A red or rosé example of vin santo, called occhio di pernice (eye of the partridge), is made from a blend which includes Sangiovese grapes, but employing the same techniques.

This technique involves drying the carefully selected, hand harvested grapes in ventilated rooms for a period of about four months, which greatly concentrates the sugar levels. (I am writing this article in late February, and the Capezzana winery has just pressed its “passito” Trebbiano grapes for their vin santo two weeks ago. This after harvesting the Trebbiano in September!) The length of time the grapes are dried influences the degree of dessication and hence potential levels of residual sugar for a given alcohol reading.

Fermentation can be sluggish due to the potentially high sugar levels, and traditionally was “kick-started” by placing the must in small barrels used for a previous vintage of vin santo, being careful to leave some of the lees in the barrel. This represented a yeast innoculum, and was called “madre” or mother. It was felt that this “madre”, combined with wild or ambient yeasts, added to the complexity of the wine.

The barrels were then left in attics to age for a period of at least three years, but often longer. Ullage was allowed to develop and thus oxidation would occur in the headspace of the barrels. Unlike other wines, the barrels were allowed to heat and cool according to the diurnal and annual temperature cycles. Thus a degree of “madeirisation” also occurred. Fermentation would naturally stop at around 14% alcohol, when the yeasts were rendered inactive. Many a Tuscan still produces his/her own vin santo, using the time honoured methods above.

These days, however, with concerns about hygiene, stuck ferments and wine stability, most commercial vin santo is produced in new or newish barrels, and the fermentation is begun by an introduced, cultured yeast which works well in the high sugar, high alcohol environment (though some producers still add a portion of “madre” to add complexity.) Levels of oxidation are also less than that which was found traditionally.

The similarities between vin santo and other wines (such as sherry and madeira) are notable, in particular the oxidatively aged oloroso style of sherry, and Boal and Malmsey madeiras. An important difference between sherry and vin santo is that vin santo is not fortified or sweetened – it derives its alcohol and sweetness from the dried grapes themselves. (On the rare occasion wine spirit IS added, the wine is called vin santo liquoroso.)

Vin santo can come with varying levels of sweetness (like sherries) but is usually regarded as a dessert wine. An oft-suggested food pairing is that of the almond biscuits (‘cantucci’) from Prato!

Here are a few examples I have tried:

Reviewed

Fattoria Viticcio (Chianti Classico region) – Dolce Arianna – Vin Santo – 2001 (16.5). Grapes were dried for three months, and barrel fermentation and aging proceeded for five years. A blend of Trebbiano, Malvasia and Canaiolo. A deep amber colour, with nutty, oxidised, even rancio characters on the nose. Intense, persistent with complex biscuit, honey and dried fruits, medium sweet (residual sugar 53 g/l) with good acid.

Fattoria Artimino – Vin Santo – Occio di Pernice – 2004 (15.5). Made with 60% Sangiovese and 40% Malvasia Nera that were left to hang on the vines for as long as possible before being hand picked and dried for 3 months, this wine was then matured for three years in chestnut barrels. A complex nose with some candied notes, the palate was reminiscent of ripe nectarines. Brisk acidity and pleasant woody notes were in evidence but the wine finished with some bitter/astringent phenolics.

Fattoria di Bacchereto – Vin Santo di Carmignano – 1999 (17.5). This from a biodynamic vineyard not far from Prato (that produces a fine Carmignano also). A blend of 80% Trebbiano and 20% Malvasia, dried for four months. Vinification with natural yeasts in small chestnut barrels for a whopping eight years! A wonderfully complex wine, sweet (I would estimate residual sugar at about 100g/l) but not cloying, with flavours of dried apricots, orange peel, honey, and toasted almonds, and generous persistence. Confirms my preference for sweeter styles of vin santo.

Baddia A Coltibuono – Vin Santo – Del Chianti Classico – 2002 (18.7). A blend of 50% Trebbiano and 50% Malvasia, matured/fermented in oak casks for four years, and subjected to the swings in temperature as was the case traditionally, the production of this wine is extremely limited – only 6500 bottles in this difficult year. This is a wine of enormous complexity, depth and length. Apricots, honey, citrus, fig, vanilla, butterscotch and a gorgeous creaminess of texture. Just stunning.

Fontodi – Vin Santo – Del Chianti Classico – 1997 (18.3). A blend of Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes, this time dried for five months and aged for five years in a combination of chestnut and oak barrels. Production about 4000 bottles. Darker amber in colour, caramel and butterscotch on the nose carries through the palate. Crisp acidity which gives a drying lift to the finish.

It has often been said that sherry is one of the world of wine’s great untapped secrets – I agree, but to this I would add vin santo. Procure a bottle in the stead of a Sauternes, Trockenbeerenauslese or Tokaji next time you are in search of a dessert wine!

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Germany – first impressions

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy (and beyond!)

May 2011

Much has changed – and continues to change – in the German wine landscape. After much effort, Germany’s reputation for dilute, over-cropped, insipid, sweet wines has given way to one of a producer of quality wines, especially from that most noble of varieties, riesling.

The change has been marked by a preference for dry wines amongst German wine drinkers, and the emergence of a new generation of talented winemakers with university qualifications and international oenological experience, committed to crafting wines that reflect Germany’s unique terroir. Some would argue that Germans still do not fully appreciate the vinous treasures produced within its own borders; Germany imports more wine than, say, the UK.

I had never visited any of the German wine regions before my recent trip, where I was based in Mainz near Frankfurt, the venue for Weinbörse, a trade show showcasing the best of German wines and organized by the VDP – Verband Deutscher Qualitäts- und Prädikatsweingüter (I shall use the abbreviation!) The VDP as an association is not a new one – it has celebrated its centenary recently – and has always had a commitment to promoting wines of quality. The organization has been at the forefront of proposing a new classification system for German wines, one which emphasizes the importance of vineyard sites, much in a similar vein to the French system. The system devised in 1971, however, based on must weight and potential alcohol, continues to prevail.

Nonetheless, producers of quality wine are invited to become members of the VDP, and have their vineyards classed as Grosses Gerwächs (or in the Rheingau, Erstes Gerwächs, which means the same thing) – meaning Grand Cru – if they pass stringent requirements including yield restriction, grape varieties grown and selective harvesting, and produce wines from what are regarded as the best sites in Germany.

Weinbörse itself was preceded by an afternoon’s tastng focusing on just the Rheinhessen, called Orstweine Vintage 2010, where intermediate VDP level vineyards – akin to Premier Cru – in the Rheinhessen were featured. This was quite an education, with tastings organized according to soil and terroir types, in addition to specific houses. As an example, wines from Kalkstein (limestone) soils showed uniformly greater body and viscosity, while those from loess soils a more fruity, even tropical, edge. In my book anyway.

Weinbörse followed for two days – I chose to focus on the Mosel, Baden, Pfalz and Nahe on day one, and then on the Rheinhessen (again), Rheingau, Ahr and Franken regions on day two. My only criticism is that many, if not most, of the wines were tank samples, with bottling due to occur for some in the coming weeks. The situation, it can be argued, is at least better than is the case for the even larger Prowein trade show, which occurred two weeks before (and is scheduled for an even earlier start in 2012.)

What were my overwhelming impressions? Firstly, as already mentioned, Germans prefer dry wines, and it is us foreigners that continue to be enchanted by the exquisite balance of residual sugar and piercing acidity that their off dry and sweeter styles offer. For the most part, dry German Rieslings have that inimitable finesse, that minerality, and linearity that is so typical. Occasionally, however, as in 2010, Rieslings without that hint of residual sugar can be just too tart and acidic to be enjoyable. (2010 was not the easiest vintage in Germany, particularly in the Rheinhessen, with lower yields and high acidity.)

[As an aside, when exporting dry white wine, German producers routinely label them QbA wines as opposed to QmP wines, even though their must weight would allow QmP classification, as consumers in many importing countries expect a sweet wine when labels such as Auslese or Spätlese are encountered.]

Secondly, increasing numbers of producers are returning to, or continuing in the case of Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, the use of large (old and inert) oak vessels. I have always thought that with dry aromatic whites, and with Riesling in particular, protective handling was de rigueur. But at Weinbörse I found many a producer using oak cooperage, in the main to add complexity (but of course still handling protectively.) And I have to say, it works.

The days after Weinbörse I hired a car and visited wineries in the Mosel, Rheingau and Rheinhessen. The wineries I visited tell a story in themselves, and I shall write about them in a subsequent post.

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Freisa

A Boot-full of Wine – Tasting notes from Italy

Cascina Gilli – Innovators of the Monferrato region in Piedmont

Whether one is talking about red or white wines, the style of wine produced can be very broadly placed into one of two categories: wines which reflect the composition of the grape (with factors such as the varietal type, location and manipulation of the vineyard, and the growing season being most important) and those that reflect the winemaking treatments applied post fermentation (where post-fermentation handling, age and type of cooperage used, and length of aging are important). Management of the fermentation and phenolic and flavour extraction by variations in temperature, juice and skin contact, and timing of pressing in red wines can contribute to both styles.

But what about when you are dealing with a variety whose essence is still to be discovered? A variety which has traditionally been vinified in a certain fashion, but has the ability to be made into ‘new’ wine styles, with potentially greater results than have hitherto been achieved by the variety?

Freisa is such a variety, and Gianni Vergnano is the visionary to lead the way.

Freisa is a native variety of north-western Italy, and has been produced in Piedmont for centuries, in several styles, including a lightly sparkling version (“vivace”) version. Rich in anthocyanins and phenolics, it was sometimes used to give other varieties a boost of colour and body. Its tougher skin means it is more resistant to rot, another reason the variety was appreciated in this cooler, damper area of Italy.

But research by Prof Schnieder of the University of California Davis, in conjunction with the Instituto di San Michele all’Adige, has confirmed it is a close relative (and possibly the grandparent) of Nebbiolo, thus confirming what had been suspected by Gianni Vergnano, and Prof Gerbi in the Department of Oenology in the University of Torino: Freisa is special.

To bring the great nobility of the grape to the fore, Gianni has collaborated with local universities, and has done microvinification experiments himself, exploring different fermentation and post fermentation strategies (such as cooperage and aging times) to attempt to uncover the full potential of this grape. To this end, he has engaged the young oenologist, Bruno Tamagnone, to assit him. If Gianni is the visionary, Bruno is the disciplined force that helps to realise Gianni’s ideas.

Gianni is the first to admit that his investigations are far from over. He laments the fact that others in the local area (which, unusually, has the light coloured ‘terrabianca’ soil of clay/marl, more akin to that found in the Langhe hills around Barolo than in Monferrato) are reluctant to follow his lead and innovative techniques. When he begins with issues such as reduction of yield, they run a mile!

Here are three examples of Freisa that we tasted (the winery also produces a range of other wines including the authoctonous Bonarda variety, and a Barbera D’Asti):

Cascina Gilli –Freisa D’Asti Luna di Maggio – 2009 (17.25). This is a lightly sparkling or ‘vivace’ style so popular in the wine bars of Milan. The wine displays a fruity lightness, with lovely tannins that dance in the mouth. The sweetness is derived from the fruit core – there is no residual sugar to speak of. I felt that my long search for a wine to match lightly spiced Asian food, such as Barry Weinman’s dahl, was at long last, over! 17.25 pts

Cascina Gilli – Freisa Vigna del Forno – 2007 (18). My first impression was of a medium weight palate, with ripe, firm tannins adding good structure to what was an easy to drink style. Then sweet fruit, lightly spiced, became more evident, with a long finish. No oak is evident – one gets the impression of pure cherry and dark berry fruit. Though drinking well now, I suggest it will develop further for 5 years or more. Yum! 18 pts

Cascina Gilli – Freisa D’Asti Arvele – 2004 (17.75). The oak (1st or 2nd pass French oak barriques – 30 months) was immediately evident on the nose. Again, the structure contributed by firm tannins was evident, this time assisted by the oak. Dark berry fruit mingled with some meaty characters (probably from a degree of oxidative handling), with good persistence of flavour. 17.75 pts

So again I have come across a lesser-known Italian variety, and have been absolutely enchanted by its different manifestations. A special thank you to Gianni and Bruno for their hospitality that day – I look forward to the ongoing results of his exploits at Cascina Gilli!

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

 

Who is Felix Peters?

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting Notes from Italy (and beyond!)

26 May 2011

Who is Felix Peters? Well may you ask.

In a previous article, I wrote about a new generation of German winemakers who are breaking the mold, and in doing so taking German wine to new heights. Felix is one of the new vanguard.

Winemaker at the medium sized (annual production about 165,000 bottles) St Antony Weingut in the Rheinhessen (being the lone winemaker makes the title “Chief” redundant), he went through his oenological studies at Geisenheim, but has spent some time working vintages in other countries, including in Burgundy, France. Felix has a special admiration for Burgundian wine, and in particular with the regions attempts to produce terroir wine.

Indeed we began the visit with a tour of the nearby vineyards. Felix spoke with intimate knowledge of each site – the merits of their differing soils and slightly different aspect. He is keen to produce wines that reflect a sense of place, in this case the set of variables that come together in his part of the Rheinhessen.

Riesling is king here, as it should be, but Felix has Pinot Noir in his red portfolio, both German and French (777) clones. His philosophy with Pinot Noir vinification is usually only incomplete destemming, cold maceration, higher fermentation temperatures, and a proportion of new oak. We tasted barrel samples of two examples, both with Cote de Nuits like structure and silkiness.

But it was with Felix’s Rieslings that I was most impressed. His “basic” (entry level) dry Riesling was anything but. And as the quality level climbed, so did complexity and aromatic scope, with Felix’s said aim of reflecting the specific conditions of the site. Bottle and barrel samples were tried. I especially liked his Rotschiefer Riesling 2009, a combination of perfume and minerality, in a trocken or dry style.

I have mentioned previously that there has been a swing back to maturation in large inert oak barrels in Germany. The traditional method in times past was also to ferment in oak vats and even concrete (and continued to be employed in some regions such as the Mosel) until the merits of stainless steel were “discovered”. Though stainless steel provides a purity and freshness, producers are seeking greater softness and complexity, especially in wines from better sites.

Felix goes one step further. With his best grapes, from his best parcels, he is experimenting with barrel fermentation and on-lees aging. Yes, this is Riesling we are talking about. With some effort, he was able to source barrels from Meursault, seeking a similar style. For me, the comparison lay with Grand Cru Chablis – with the evidence of some oak influences, but with that racy, minerally acidity to boot. The barrel sample of the 2010 Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling (Grosses Gewächs – or Grand Cru if you like), just a minute part of the overall production of St Antony, was simply amazing.

Felix continues to experiment. I was privileged to be able to sample some of the latest fruits of his endeavours!

Ciao for now! Or maybe auf wiedersehen!

Brendan Jansen

Thinking of visiting Burgundy?

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy (and beyond)

2 May 2011

While I do not claim to be an expert on Burgundy or its wines, I can say that I have had a long-held passion for Burgundian pinot noir. After my recent and only visit to Burgundy, I can now say my passion extends to the place also.

Beaune almost bisects the Cote d’Or, with the line separating the Cote de Beaune from the Cote de Nuits a little north of it, and is a great base from which to explore the area. A small town, well set up for wine enthusiasts, it has a myriad of boutique wine shops, traditional restaurants and accommodation options. Beaune itself is a short train ride from Dijon, in turn accessible from Paris (about 2 hours by train).

I chose to stay in a bed and breakfast close to the centre of the town of Beaune, and do not think I could have made a better choice. The rooms offered by Chez Marie were clean and well decked out – at a 4-star hotel standard. Her breakfasts – replete with fantastic coffee, crispy French bread and home made preserves – gave me the sustenance required for the days of wine tasting and touring that followed.

As for a tour operator, I do not think that you can find a better one than Cristina Otel and her partner Christian Knott. Both are winemakers in their own right, Christian hails from Sydney, and both have worked vintages in Margaret River and France. Their company, Taste Burgundy, organizes tours for those with more than a modicum of knowledge about the area and its wines. A third staff member has just joined their team.

They are able to book appointments for you directly with producers, and drive you to them, providing translation while there. In truth, much more is provided – Cristina’s interest is in giving you a complete cultural experience of the area, including visits to the markets and specialty shops, the important Grand Cru vineyard sites, and the Hospices de Beaune (once a charitable almshouse and now a museum, and a must see).

Cristina and Christian’s passion for the wines of Burgundy, their attention to detail, and ability to put both hosts and clients at ease, makes for an in-depth experience.

What then will you find when you visit the local producers? Here, our focus was on small vignerons, and not large negociants. Well, there are those who vinify their pinot noir with a proportion of whole bunches and those who do not. There are those who use a majority of new oak, and others who do not. Some who use battonage for their whites while others who do not. Some who do a cold pre-fermentation maceration. You will find a range of fermentation temperatures and times employed. And all will tell you that what they do depends on the vintage and the quality of the fruit.

So you will encounter many a formula of how to make good red and white Burgundy. However, and most importantly, each producer will have a well thought out philosophy guiding his/her thinking. As an example, Thierry Violot-Guillemard uses 80% new oak for his pinot noir, yet the oak flavours are in no way overwhelming – he uses oak which has been seasoned for a lengthy 4 years. His reasoning? It allows him to leave his wines on its lees without having to rack or disturb the wine – both malolactic fermentation and sur lie are reductive processes – the newer oak results in greater oxidation as a counter, and therefore he does not have to touch the wines. He believes the less the wine is handled the better. The result? Silky powerful pinot noir, stunning at each quality level.

Those who made the greatest impression? Thibault Liger Belair – a young, and up and coming genius, who works biodynamically, for the sheer restrained power and complexity of his reds. Thierry Violot-Guillemard – for his engaging personal story, his warm generosity, and his silky pinot noirs. Blair Pethel (Domaine Dublere) – an American turned Burgundian – for his linear and true wines, especially his whites. And Gérald Cacheux (at Domaine René Cacheux) for his down-to-earth personality and down-to-earth wines.

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Champagne – Non Vintage

1 December 2011

I love champagne! So this was one of the most anticipated tastings for the year.

One of the challenges of reviewing NV champagne is that there is no way of knowing how old the bottle is. Like every other wine, champagne evolves as it ages, (often for the better in the short term). To get around this, all wines in the tasting were purchased within a few weeks of the tasting.

We did have to purchase most of the wines ourselves, but thanks needs to go to Paul at Vintage Cellars for helping out with some of the wine.

The star of the tasting was the Drappier. This was uniformly enjoyed by the entire panel. It is currently being sold for $40 and is a Vintage Cellars exclusive. It is a little more expensive than our perennial favourite – Pol Gessner, but it is probably a touch better (and a Blanc de Blanc).

There were some very good wines from both big and small houses, so there is plenty on offer this Christmas.

Reviewed

Pol Roger – NV (18.3). Refined and very stylish. There is a touch of spice that I can’t place but there are also hints of red fruits. Great length with excellent complexity, this builds in the mouth with a corresponding increase in flavour. A fine champagne.

Gosset – Grand Reserve – NV (18.2). Now this is interesting. Very appealing nose that combines chardonnay derived minerality with finesse and life. Very lively in the mouth, with a fine mousse. Develops richness and texture as it warms up. Very long and perhaps the most complete wine to date. Mainstream, and all the better for it.

Louis Roederer – NV (18+). Floral, and forward fruit. Very vigorous mousse. Long and complex, this is a complete wine though it needs a few years to hit its peak.

Drappier – Signature – Blanc de Blanc – NV – (18). Lovely nose that displays autolysis, bread dough and minerality. A lovely palate that is fresh, vibrant and full of life with hints of grapefruit. Not overly complex, but this will develop with time in the bottle. A refreshing aperitif style. Delivers on the promise of a “mouth-ful of joy” and is a bargain at $40 from Vintage Cellars.

Serge Mathieu – Tradition – Blanc de Noir – NV – (18). Restrained and elegant, this is quintessential champagne. Fantastic palate that is full of life and energy, yet there is a degree of restraint that makes the palate almost seamless. Excellent length and mouth-feel. A very fine wine of real class.

Serge Mathieu – Cuvee Prestige – NV (18). Lovely nose. Fresh, with floral notes and hints of brioche and fresh bread. The palate is refined and long showing minerality and a degree of complexity that really develops in the mouth. A very stylish, if somewhat mainstream wine.

Tribaut Schloesser – Brut Origine – NV (18). Fine mousse, Lovely colour and great nose. Very refined, very long and totally delicious. It is hard to pin down any one flavour as the wine evolves continuously in the mouth. I like it a lot, though it is a dryer style.

Paul Barra – Brut Reserve – NV (17.9). More autolysis and lees notes to this wine. More mainstream, but very enjoyable. The dosage is perhaps a touch higher, though this plays well against the fresh acidity. Very good length and nice creaminess, this is an excellent stand-alone wine. From Grand Cru vineyards.

Arras – EJ Carr – Late Disgorged – 1999 (17.8). Richer and more developed. A touch darker in the glass. Showing obvious aged notes. The length is the key here. Remarkably fine mousse and a very fine wine. It would be easy to dismiss this wine as it is so refined, but it really does build in the mouth. One taster described this as Chablis with bubbles. Not cheap.

Pierre Gimonet – Paradoxe – 2004 (17.8). Much more of the autolysis, lees and yeasty notes. Another very enjoyable if somewhat richer wine. Good length and intensity, without the refinement of the very best here. Fine, classy, elegant and long, minerality the key.

Billecart Salmon – Brut Reserve – NV (17.5). More obvious mousse and more forward on the nose. A very attractive and easy to drink wine that is both reasonably complex and long. The flavours develop in the mouth. Not quite the life of the best, but very easy to drink.

Tribaut Schloesser – Cuvee Rene – NV (17.5). Balanced, elegant and appealing. An appealing wine in a more commercial style. Unmistakably champagne, with apple and pear overtones. Not overly long, but a good drink.

Vilmart – Grand Reserve – NV (17.2). Rounder and more developed. Pleasant wine with apple acidity that carries the palate well. Enjoyable. Not as long as the best, but this is a textured wine aided by a degree of oak aged complexity. Do not serve it too cold.

Grant Burge – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – NV – (16.7). Rich and quite broad in the palate. An enjoyable wine with lovely texture and good length. There are red fruits with hints of apple and autolytic characters.

Chapoutier Lunch

23rd August 2009

Being a wine nut, I taste a lot of wine each week. The only problem with this is that not all the wine I try is good. We are very lucky living in Australia, as our wine makers are technically competent, and make clean wines.

What does this mean for consumers? If you walk into a bottle shop and chose a wine off the shelf, you are likely to get an inoffensive wine that is entirely acceptable. The trouble starts when you line up 20 new release wines and have to taste them in an hour and a half. While they are likely to be acceptable, many will be dull, colourless and boring. Sound wines? – Yes, exciting wines? – No.

With this in mind, it was with a sense of great anticipation that I approached the vertical tasting of Chapoutier’s Monier de la Sizeranne held by the Wine and Food Society of Western Australia. This was a once in a lifetime chance to try a range of iconic wines from Hermitage in the northern Rhone. What a relief compared to 20 new world sauvignon blancs.

La Sizeranne is Chapoutier’s Hermitage (shiraz), coming from three iconic vineyards – le Meal, les Bressards and les Greffieux. It was fascinating to see how the wine varied from year to year, and also to compare the wine to others from the Chapoutier stable. We started with a trifecta of great years – 1988, 1989 and 1990. We then tried the 1992, 1993, 1995 and 2005. For good measure we also had the 1993 and 2006 Cote Rotie as well as the 2006 St Joseph and Crozes Hermitage.

The wines varied quite significantly with the vintage, with consensus that the 1990 was a truly great wine. There was also strong support for the 1988, 1995 and 2005. The highlight for many though was the 2006 Cote Rotie. A sensational wine with a very long future and a relative bargain at $110 per bottle. The 2006 Crozes Hermitage was the value pick for the tasting, with succulent fruit and a price under $50.

As to the food, modesty prevents me from commenting on the fantastic meal, as I did the cooking.

A special thanks to Michael Tamburi from La Vigna and Matt Holden from Fine Wine Wholesalers for helping to source the wines. If you are interested in trying Chapoutier’s wines, then the team at La Vigna may be able to help.

So to the wines…

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 1988 (18.2). A complex leathery nose with earthy characters, a touch of smoke and cigar box. A touch of volatility adds interest on a palate that was soft, round and subtle. Good acid freshens the finish. This continued to freshen over many hours and is a delightful drink.

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 1989 (16.8). Surprisingly fresh with bright red currant fruit. Spice and plum with a touch of volatility. The fresh fruit is apparent on the palate, but the wine is very angular. Tannins dominate the finish. I wonder if this bottle is typical, as there should be greater depth to the fruit.

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 1990 (18.7). What a beautiful wine! There is a lovely perfumed nose of violet and cinnamon spice. The perfumed fruit continues on the palate with gorgeous mouth feel balance and length. Textured and alive, this is a great example of shiraz from a cooler region.

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 1992 (17.8). A subtle wine that leads with spices and violets. The palate is textured, vibrant and long, but the finish is just a little lean. Continued to improve for some time in the glass. Lacks the complexity of the 1990, but it is a very pretty wine that is drinking now.

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 1993 (16). From one of the worst years in memory. Green fruit characters dominate the nose and palate. It is actually quite long, with spicy fruit and a satisfying finish, but the Cote Rotie from the same year was much better.

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 1995 (18). Lovely nose of chocolate, coffee beans and cedar. A touch of spice too. Classic white pepper on the palate with spice to close. A textured wine that is all about structure. I wonder if the fruit will survive the tannins.

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 2005 (18.5). Perfumed, essence of shiraz. Some raspberries and blackcurrant to close. A touch of crushed ants. The ripe fruit coats the palate and peppery fruit dominates the finish. Excellent oak integration and fine tannins. Quite seamless and lovely structure. Continued to evolve and open for many hours.

Chapoutier – Cote Rotie – 1993 (17.5). A great effort from one of the worst years in memory. It is complex, spicy and fresh. The palate is complex and spicy with acid that is still fresh. Cardamom and leather round out the finish with sour cherries to close. A light wine but a good drink.

Chapoutier – Les Becasse – Cote Rotie – 2006. (18.6). This wine has it all. Complex and really deep smelling, there is a gamut of fruit flavours ranging from fresh plums through to prunes with currants and red fruits. Tremendous length and fruit weight on the palate, with superb use of oak. A touch of crushed ants to close, this is seamless and has text book mouth feel and structure. A great wine that is a joy to drink now, but will be even better in 10-15 years.

Chapoutier – Deschants – Saint Joseph – 2006 (17). Fresh and vibrant, this is all about the fruit. Pepper, spice and sour cherry fruit. This is long, vibrant and supple. Drinking really well over the next few years.

Chapoutier – Les Meyonniers – Crozes Hermitage – 2006 (17.5). Richer and with greater texture than the Deschants. Spicy fruit with a touch of white pepper. Oak provides structure and is well used. Good drinking and the best value wine in the tasting. A great entry into shiraz from the northern Rhone.

Chateau Coutet

Reviewed: 24th April 2012

I had the pleasure of sitting down to dinner with Aline Baly from Chateau Coutet whilst tasting through a number of vintages back to 1986. It was fantastic to see how the wines evolved over time and also how the different vintage conditions influences the style of a particular wine.

The blend of grapes going into Coutet remains constant; Semillon – 75%, Sauvignon Blanc – 23% and Muscadet 2%. Apparently, the proportion of sauvignon blanc is higher than that used by most other Sauternes producers. The purpose is to make the wine crisp/sharp, even nervy. An energetic Sauternes then? Aline tells the story that the name Coutet means knife, hence they feel obliged to make a sharp wine 🙂

One point that was raised on the night was the amount of bottle to bottle variation with some vintages. Again, the less than perfect cork can be held accountable. We did not try any bad bottles, it is just that with the older wines (’89 in particular), there were differing degrees of development.

Without doubt, the highlight of the evening was tasting the two bottles of Cuvee Madame. Only released in exceptional years and only 100 dozen made in a particular vintage. I believe that there has only been 14 vintages released to date, with the 1997 being the latest. I need to express my gratitude to Bob Winterbottom for supplying both of these wines!

Finally, the 2010 Bordeaux indent has just began, so contact your friendly retailer if you would like to order the latest Coutet.

NB. This was not a blind tasting, so my points are best used as a comparison between vintages rather than in absolute terms. That said, the best wines were outstanding.

Reviewed

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2007 (18). Obvious viscosity and sweetness, though the palate is very fine and taut, courtesy of the lovely acidity. The length is superb with honey, grapefruit and apricot fruit characters. Subtle and delicate, this will build in power and intensity with age.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2006 (17.7). Very delicate and fine, with lovely, floral fruit. There is less of the intense apricot/honey characters here, reflecting vintage conditions. Very closed at this stage, the finish is fresh, fine and seamless. An excellent aperitif.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2005 (17.8). Deeper hue than the 2006. More obvious botrytis characters on the nose, with plenty of apricot and orange marmalade. The palate is more intense, with some of the minerals that the house is (apparently) known for. Powerful and structured, with excellent length, the sweetness is more obvious.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2004 (17.5 – 18). Another intense wine that has both bower and balance. More nutty, with more minerality than 2005. Very intense palate with good length. Did not have the carry and depth of the greatest wines, but the wine really developed character with time in the glass. One to watch.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1997 (NR).

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1989 (18.8). There was some bottle variation on the night, though none of the bottles were bad. Fantastic nose showing orange marmalade, apricot, floral notes, minerals and nutty fruit. One taster suggested a hint of Madeira. The palate was vibrant, and impressively fresh for a wine of such age. There was a degree of development, but the powerful fruit and superb acidity give the wine great length and penetration.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1988 (18+). Lighter and more feminine than the ’89, this is reserved and oh so subtle. Balanced, long, fine and restrained, with citrus highlights, this is remarkably youthful. A complete wine in a lighter style that will live for many years.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – Cuvee Madame – 1989 (19). Remarkably fresh, concentrated and powerful, with marmalade and apricot aromas. The palate is incredible. Amazing intensity, but at the same time, elegant and restrained. Perfectly judged sweetness combined with mouth-watering acidity and a touch of viscosity to make this an incredible wine.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – Cuvee Madame – 1986 (18.9). Youthful! This is another incredible wine that has lovely spiced fruit and perfume. The palate is very exciting. It is fine, refined, very long and starting to develop. This is a lighter style than the 1989, but totally delicious all the same.

Sauternes – 2007

Reviewed – 29 May 2011

The Wines

I approached this tasting with great anticipation. 2007 is another great Sauternes vintage since 2000. When I found an excellent cross-section of wines in Dan Murphy, I thought this would make a great tasting for the Wine and Food Society of Western Australia.

My good friend John Jens points out that perspective is all important in life. To add perspective and make the tasting more interesting, I included a few cheaper wines and a bottle of Chateau d’Yquem. The results were surprising to say the least.

The cheaper wines showed really well with the De Bortoli a highlight for some, with strong support also for the Chateau du Pavillon and the Monbazillac. Surprisingly, the d’Yquem received little support, especially given the price.

For me though, the picks were the Guiruad, Doise Daene and Rabaud-Promis, while the Lamothe Guignard was the best value. All the wines tasted like Sauternes, although there was a fascinating difference in how this was expressed.

A word on the value of Sauternes. These wines are surely, the greatest wine bargains on the planet. Grand Cru Burgundy sells for $100’s of dollars a bottle and 1st Growth Bordeaux is selling for upwards of $1000 per bottle. These are, without question, some of the greatest sweet wines in the world. That they are currently available for between $30 and $70 per bottle (375ml) makes them irresistible.

Reviewed

Chateau Guiruad – Sauternes – 1er Grand Cru – 2007 (18.5+). Lovely nose that, whilst tight and closed, suggests real potential. Lovely mouth-feel, with some caramel notes over the sweet fruit characters. Beautifully balanced wine that has great length. The power of this wine became evident as it sat in the glass.

Chateau Doisy Daene – Barsac – Cru Classe – 2007 (18.5). Closed and concentrated. Wow, marmalade, apricot nectar, pineapple and orange marmalade. Viscous but the sweetness is perfectly balanced by the excellent acidity. Lovely mouth-feel and balance. Great length with a lovely minerality to close. With air the delicate floral fruit really expressed and the power and balance became apparent. Seamless.

Chateau Rabaud – Promis – Sauternes – 1er Grand Cru – 2007 (18.5). Lovely perfume here, with musk and honey over fresher fruit notes. Wow, the palate is sublime. There is lovely fruit that is pretty and delicate. Perhaps not as much botrytis here, giving the wine great elegance. Builds orange marmalade in the mouth. The finish is intense, powerful and long, yet retains elegance and finesse. Will evolve over several years.

Chateau Coutet – Barsac – 1er Cru – 2007 (18++). Initially, a straightforward nose of apricot. Apricot and orange marmalade on the palate to what was, again, a fairly straightforward palate. Good length, and enough acidity to prevent the finish from being cloying. This really evolved in the glass, developing great concentration and length of flavours. Really needs 10 – 20 years to show its best.

Chateau Lamothe Guignard – Sauternes – 2e Grand Cru – 2007 (18). Quite complex, with fennel, pear skin, minerals and citrus over the botrytis fruit. Viscous palate that has a good flavour profile. The finish is just a touch fatter yet the acidity balances the sweetness nicely. A very good wine that is only a little behind the best here. Opens and evolves to display lovely orange zest and fresh acidity to keep the finish clean. (Great value here – $31).

Chateau Lafaurie – Peyraguey – Sauternes – 1er Grand Cru – 2007 (17.5). Slightly darker colour. Again, reserved. The palate is more linear, with orange peel over almond and apricot jam. Not particularly sweet, but with good acidity.

Deen De Bortoli – Botrytis – Semillon – Vat 5 – 2007. (17+). Luscious and rich. Apricot flavours and aromas, with some apricot kernel and almond meal to follow. Not particularly concentrated, but good length and enough acidity to keep the finish fresh. This actually developed nicely in the glass. An absolute bargain at $11.

Pavillon De La Brie – Monbazillac – 2008 (16.9). Subtle aromas. The palate is sweet and fresh with pineapple, apricot and orange peel that is candied. Good length and balance. Again, not that complex, but quite a convincing effort and a bargain to boot. ($10 from Dan Murphy).

Chateau du Pavillon – Sainte Croix du Mont – 2004 (16.7). Clean and fresh. Stonefruit aromas with some complexity in the form of minerals and nuts. Good attack in the mouth, with good balance. Still very youthful.

Chateau d’Yquem – Sauternes 1998 (N.R.). Marmalade and toffee. Tremendous concentration and power. There are all the hallmarks of great sauternes. Apricot, orange marmalade and almond meal dominate the palate. The length is a stand-out and the acidity balances the intense fruit perfectly. The complexity really shone the next day, but the almond notes overwhelm the stonefruit. Not particularly sweet, but an interesting wine.

Chateau de Malle – Sauternes – Grand Cru – 2007 (NR). Unfortunately not quite right. Blame the cork.