Reviewed: 9^th September 2013

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Bannockburn – 2011 (18). More meaty notes to open on the nose. Follows through on a palate that is earthy, dense and structured. Precise, long and firm, this is a very good wine, but it does need a year or two to come together. Excellent balance!

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2010 (18). Superb wine! There is lovely cherry fruit that is both dense and beautifully textured. The mouth-feel is spot on and the finish silky. The tannins and oak are very fine, yet it is the length of fruit flavours that stands this apart. Some sappy, souring notes on the finish add life.

Philippe Livera – Pinot Noir – Cote de Nuits – Villages – 2010 (17.7). The different style here is reflected in the lighter colour. This wine is leaner, has less forward fruit and more pronounced acidity than the other wines reviewed here. There is also more medium toast oak on display. There is a lovely saline character that runs through the palate that makes food highly desirable. Excellent length, this just needs a few years to hit its straps. Good purity of fruit, with a touch of earthiness and minerals. Opens to become beautifully perfumed. Not hugely complex, but attractive drinking.

Ad Hoc – Pinot Noir – Cool Mistress – 2012 (17.4). The lighter colour is reflected on both the nose and palate. A good wine, though the fruit is less dense up front. The length of flavours highlight the quality of the wine. Subtle, smoky oak to close.

Mt Maud – Pinot Noir – 2007 (17). Good fruit quality here, which has been nicely handled. On the palate, there is cherry fruit and spicy highlights. The finish is dense and long, with a silky texture. The length here is fantastic. Ready to go now.

Last Sunday Wine Group

Reviewed 25^th August 2013.

Given the reputation of some of the wines tasted, it will come as no surprise to hear that this was a fantastic event.  The big surprise though, was the quality of the Giaconda nebbiolo.  Spectacular stuff.

Reviewed

Mesh – Riesling – 2003 (18).  Developing excellent aged characters.  The acid is softening and the fruit building richness.  Excellent length.  Will last for some time, but drinking a treat now.

Piazzo – Nebbiolo – Barolo – 2008 (17.6).  Hints of tar and roses, in a fragrant package that has leathery edges.  The tannins are fine, though very firm and persistent.  Quite good balance, but needs a few years for the fruit tannins to soften.

Muscarello – Nebbiolo – Barolo – Villero – 2006 (18).  A very light colour here.  Superb nose and palate, showing floral fruit, that is silky.  Initially this is quite soft in the mouth, but there is deceptive depth and power.  Lovely now, but will continue to evolve.

Isole e Olena – Sangiovese – Cepprarello – IGT – 2004 (18.1).  An attractive blend of dense fruit, power and structure.  Shows ripe, powerful fruit that has earth, licoroce and spice notes.  Actually quite cabernet-like with mint and red berry characters.  Has mint and red berry fruit on a palate that is very long and has superb balance and structure.

Tenuta San Guida – Sassicaia – 1987 (18).  Wow, a dense, powerful and structured wine that has medicinal and dusty notes.  Very long and powerful, with chewy, textured tannins, yet the finish is surprisingly silky and supple.

Luke Lambert – Nebbiolo – Heathcote – 2008 (17.5),  Lovely nose showing bright, cherry-like fruit, with some herbal and jube-like characters.  Opens to show blackcurrant, cherry, redcurrant and earthy notes.

Castello del Cuculo – Barbera D’Alba – Bricco del Cuculo – 2010 (18).  Cherry fruit, with earthy/spice accents and cedary oak.  Long, refined, supple and silky, with excellent persistence and length of flavours.

Case Ibidini – Nero d’Avola – 2011 (17.8).  Amazing density here.  Long, fine, rich and persistent.  From Sicily.

Nada Fiorenzo – Nebbiolo – Barbaresco – Rombone – 2006 (18.5).  Superb nose!  Superb palate!  This wine is all about the texture and mouth-feel, yet there is no doubting the quality of the fruit.  Very fine, long and persistent with a finish that is silky, long and balanced.  Outstanding.

Fontodi – Sangiovese – Flaccianello Della Peive – 2007 (18.5).  Wow, the concentration of fruit here is outstanding, with more richness than the Rombone.  Long and supple, showing quite more modern fruit handling and oak use.  Excellent length.

Andrea Oberto – Nebbiolo – Barolo – Vigneto Rocche – 2004 (18).  Super wine that combines depth and intensity with very fine fruit.  Ripe and precise, though this has more savoury complexity.  The finish is concentrated, chewy, long and fine.

San Vinceti – Sangiovese – Stignano – 2001 (17.8).  More savoury than some here, but this is no less intense.  Excellent depth and length to the fruit, with souring acid to close.

Giaconda – Nebbiolo – 2008 (18.5).  Lighter colour, though still red rimmed.  Developing, with tar like complexity.  Chewy, textured, long, fine and delicate.  Silky, supple and oh so drinkable.  Superb wine that has a finish that fans out like a peacocks tail.

Elio Altare – Nebbiolo – Barolo – 2008 (18.5).  Less overt and more tannic than the Giaconda, but equally compelling.  Tar, chocolate, spice and cherry, in a long and silky package.  Spectacular wine.

Roberto Voerzio – Nebbiolo – Vignaserra – Lange – 2000 (18).  Tighter, tannic and firm.  Great fruit, but needs years.

Roberto Voerzio – Nebbiolo – Brunate – 2000 (18.5).  Initially appears quite developed, lacking the overtness of the others.  Silky, long, fine textured, this builds and develops into a super wine.  Stunning power, but still with finesse.  Wonderful wine.

Reviewed 27^th August 2013

I continue to marvel at the current quality of Australian chardonnays.  Never before have the wines been so elegant, refined and desirable.  Ten years ago, there were a mere handful of wines that I would seek to drink, preferring to look to Burgundy for examples of fine chardonnay.

In this current tasting, of the 20 wines reviewed, three were awarded gold medals and a further three firmly entrenched in silver medal position.  Given the price of good white burgundy, these wines are not only excellent quality, they can represent brilliant value!

Reviewed

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2011 (18/18.5+).  Complex, yet restrained, with subtle grapefruit, melon and mineral notes on the nose.  Lemon and lime juice characters drive the palate initially, though the very fine winemaking inputs leave a very fine impression on the finish.  This is really silky and fine.  Develops pineapple and stonefruit to close.  Really came together the next day, with powerful, rich fruit flooding the palate.  A great wine!

Cape Mentelle – Chardonnay – 2011 (18.5).  Very pretty, almost delicate fruit here – this is lean and tight in the “modern” style.  Serious fruit quality that has been picked a little earlier to retain acidity and poise.  The palate is where the quality comes to life.  This is seamless and very fine, though it needs 5 years to allow the fruit to build depth.  A superb wine with hints of pineapple, lemon and ripe stonefruit.  There is tremendous length and excellent balance, with the expensive (very fine) oak providing a sympathetic frame on which the fruit is built.  My love affair with Cape Mentelle wines has been well documented in these pages over the last few years and the 2011 chardonnay only reinforces the attraction.

Heydon Estate – Chardonnay – The Willow – 2009 (18.5).  Opens with minerals, curry leaf, struck match and very high quality (slightly charred) oak.  This is a powerful wine in the Burgundian style.  Dense, rich and mouth-coating, with bitter almond astringency to close.  The palate is very fine framed, super tight, long and elegant, reflecting quality fruit, oak and winemaking.  The next day, the palate came in to its own, becoming expansive and near seamless.  (Drink now to 4 years).

Penfolds – Chardonnay – Bin 311 – 2012 (18).  More overt power than with the Kevin John, but still with wonderful balance and poise.  This is more nutty, with almond meal and cashew nut aromas.  The palate is taut, yet there is wonderful depth to the fruit.  In reality, this is quite closed, so a few years in the cellar will only help.  Opens to show pristine fruit, lime-like acidity and near seamless palate transition.  The quality oak is well integrated and adds to the mouth-feel.

Hutton – Chardonnay – Triptych – 2011 (17.5 – 18).  Compelling nose here that is more obvious than some of the others in the tasting.  Viscous and oaked but this is in balance with the fruit.  The finish is long and fine, with excellent acidity carrying the finish.  Lime juice acidity and pineapple to close, with nutty fruit developing in the glass.

Lamont’s – Chardonnay – White Monster – 2012 (17.4).  More obvious fruit on the nose and the palate.  Opens with pineapple fruit characters and decent acidity.  The oak has been well handled adding depth to the palate.  This is a style that is suited to early drinking and is one of the most accessible wines of the tasting.  Aptly named, as this is a big, rich wine that has plenty of (very fine) oak characters adding depth to the fruit.  An overt style that will please many!

Willow Bridge – Chardonnay – Dragonfly – 2013 (17).  Lovely fragrance here, with peach, melon and hints of nuttiness.  There is a seam of citrus running the length of the palate.  A bright, fresh and lively wine that has virtually no oak characters and would make a refreshing alternative to a young riesling or SB.

Thierry et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – Bourgogne – 2011 (16.9).  Nutty, spicy notes with peach-like aromas coming through on the nose.  The palate is not overly complex, but possessing good length and persistence.  A neutral, European style of wine that should work a treat with food. Smells like burgundy, tastes like burgundy… must be burgundy!  Should also be good value.

Reviewed: 16^th August 2013

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (18.5). Compared to the Diana Madeline, this wine has more obvious red fruits on the nose, though there is a tight, dusty backbone that is rigid and firm. The fruit here is perfectly ripe, though this is expressed in a leaner style that needs time in the bottle to develop and evolve. Whilst all potential now, this will be superb!

Sandalford – Cabernet Sauvignon – Prendiville – 2009 (18 – 18.5+). An attractive package that is an amalgam of dark fruits, spice, and earthy complexity. The tannin and oak handling sets this apart due to the finesse and poise that they confer on the wine. Very long and stylish, this is a wine of the highest quality that can be drunk anytime from now to 20 years.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madeline – 2011 (18 – 18.5). At first, this is firm, lean and austere. Beneath the surface though, there is silky, quality fruit, supple texture and superb length. The tannins are very fine, casting a sprinkling of talc over the finish. Textured, elegant and refined, this is a wine for the lover of claret as, while it it lacks joy now, it will repay cellaring. One for the aficionado!

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2012 (17.5). Not giving away a lot on the nose, but this is well made and has quality fruit. Opens to show good red fruit flavours and aromas. The palate is structured, though the tannins are fine. The oak adds to the package without adding dominant flavours. (Remarkable quality, given that this is the third tier cabernet from Cape Mentelle).

Castelli – Merlot – 2011 (17+). Solid, dense, structured and firm, this wine has quality fruit, though it needs time for the fruit to uncoil and express itself. A touch linear now, but will fill out and get higher points with time.

Angove – Merlot – Organic – 2012 (17). Quite closed. The palate is structured, dense and long, showing dark fruits with an almost earth texture. Cedar and subtle spice from the oak to close. Long and sappy, this has very fine tannins and well judged oak. Excellent wine that has the potential to age for a few years.

Forester Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (16.9). Varietal cabernet fruit to the fore, showing hints of red berries, currants and mint. Hints of chocolate sit over pretty red fruits. Good fruit, length and texture make this an appealing drink.

De Bortoli – Cabernet Sauvignon – Deen De Bortoli – Vat 9 – 2012 (16.8). Bright fruit that is silky, yet mouth-watering. The palate has redcurrant and cherry fruit, with the spice add to the package. This wine has good length, but is not overly complex. A perennial bargain.

Reviewed: 25^th July 2012

Reviewed

Sandalford – Chardonnay – Prendiville – 2011 (18 – 18.5). Another serious wine. Viscous, textured, balanced and almost chewy. The medium toast oak adds layers of complexity, along with subtle smoke and spice characters. Peach, stonefruit and minerals are the primary fruit characters and the wine builds complexity and depth with air. Superb!

Flametree – Chardonnay – S.R.S. (Wallcliffe) – 2012 (18.3). This is a superb wine, with high quality fruit and excellent winemaking. There is stonefruit, pineapple and citrus characters on both the nose and the palate. The oak is a little more noticeable, but is sympathetic to the fruit. This is a richer style that has immediate appeal, though the wine will continue to improve for a few years.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Margaret River – 2012 (18+). Peach and almond on both the nose and palate, with hints of lemon and tropical fruit. A viscous, crafted wine that combines finesse with drinkability. The length of fruit flavours on the finish is a highlight, and the mouth-feel and balance makes this irresistible. The oak only adds to the package. (Drink this while waiting for the wine from the Porongorups).

Thompson Estate – Chardonnay – 2011 (18). This wine has potential, hinting at floral fruit and peachy stone fruit. The acid here is fresh and keen, while the fruit builds in the mouth. This actually has quite rich fruit, though it just needs time to express itself. The silky oak adds texture rather than overt flavours and the length is outstanding. Harks back to Leeuwin Estate chardonnays of old.

Ferngrove – Chardonnay – 2012 (17.8). Subtle fruit on the nose. The palate is rich, viscous, complex and very long. The oak is present, but sits well with the finely crafted fruit. This is a wine of quality and shows sophisticated winemaking, which confers a lovely mouth-feel. The bitter almond astringency on the finish adds life.

Seppelts – Chardonnay – Drumborg – 2008 (17.7). Lovely, complex nose that has depth and interest. There is lemon and melon fruit notes. Cashew nut, white peach and nectarine on both the nose and palate. Developing, the oak fleshes out the finish. Not as lean as the “modern” style, though probably the best drinking wine today. (The 2011 is the current release).

Killerby – Chardonnay – 2012 (17.6). Clean, fresh and modern. The palate has presence, with quality fruit and excellent oak. Everything is in place, though it is quite lean now and needs a few years to flesh out.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Porongurup – 2012 (17.5/18+). Superb fruit, but in a package that is so tight and restrained that the acidity is quite piercing. Needs time or air to open up and allow the fruit to develop. This is pure and linear, with wonderful balanced and subtle fruit. Set up for a long future, this may well be the best wine here.

Grant Burge – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – NV (16.9). Quite developed nose and palate. The fruit here is quite rich, courtesy of the pinot dominant blend. A well made wine that has good length, nice acidity and reasonable complexity making for a convincing drink.

Angove – Chardonnay – Organic – 2012 (17). Quite a neutral wine that builds in the mouth. Shows lemony fruit that is fine, subtle and delicate. Refined, this really started to grow on me. Excellent value.

What Glass Should You Use?

We spend a lot of time deciding on what wines to buy, when to drink them, who to drink them with and what food to have with them. How much time and consideration do we give when deciding what to drink our special wines out of? Many times I have opened a decent wine, and consumed it out of an ordinary glass. But does this show off the best characters of the wine?

Most people have several different wine glasses in their cupboard. These can often be labelled “cheap”, “everyday” and “special”. The special glasses sit in the cupboard gathering dust, because we are scared of one of the set getting broken.

But lets stop and think about what we are doing! How much do we spend on a bottle of wine, $10, $20, $50 or more? What do we drink our carefully chosen wines out of? A glass costing $2, $10, $20?

I live in a clumsy house, and probably break a wine glass every two months. I also open about 5 bottles of wine per week, (no, not just for me). That is about 40 bottles in a two month period. Using a $20 glass, this works out at about 50c worth of broken glass per bottle, or 10c per glass of wine. If the average cost of a bottle is $20, then this is only 5% of the cost.

Before we go on, is there any benefit to using a more expensive glass? Not particularly. Is there any benefit to using a better glass? Definitely. Wine smells and tastes differently depending on the glass you use.

Don’t take my word for it though, do a little experiment with your next wine. Poor a splash into a coffee cup, water glass, cheap wine glass and your favourite glass. Smell the wine from each, then taste the wine from each. If you do not notice any difference whatsoever, then you should probably stop reading here.

Why does the glass make a difference?

Shape – In general, a glass with a large bowl that tapers towards the top makes a good all purpose glass. The glass should taper from the bowl to the rim. This allows for a decent surface area of the wine, and concentrates the aromas at the top.

Size – The bowl needs to be large enough to allow the wine to be swirled without spilling, but also have enough wine in it to drink. I would recommend only filling the glass to about ¼ full.

Stem – Use this to hold your glass for two reasons. It keeps your wine glass clean so that the wine continues to look good and more importantly, it will stop you from heating the wine with your hands.

Lip – One of the most important issues is whether the lip is rolled or not. Cheap glasses tend to have a rolled lip (rounded at the top) as the extra thickness makes the glass stronger. This affects delivery of the wine into the mouth. A cut lip delivers the wine in a precise flow onto the tongue.

Availability – You need to be able to replace glasses as they break, or buy extras to cover future breakage.

What To Buy?

This depends on your budget. The Riedel “Chianti” glass in the vinum range is the best all purpose glass that I have tried. This is the glass that I use at home. At $35 + per glass, it is not cheap, but it is definitely worth it. (Peters of Kensington has a pack of four for $102). If you balk at paying this much for a glass, then the Rona “City” red wine glass is a good alternative. It is available from Peters of Kensington.

The one wine that the “Chianti” glass does not suit is champagne. A good champagne flute is essential for the appearance of bubbles. For style and functionality, the Riedel “Cuvee Prestige” in the vinum range is a great glass, but any good flute with a cut rim will work.

If money is no object, then you can buy different Riedel glasses for almost all styles of wines. Save your money though as in reality, the “Chianti” and “Cuvee Prestige” glasses from the vinum range will do just fine. You can then spend more on the wines.

Conclusion

You may think that all this talk about glasses affecting wines is a load of nonsense, and the effects of a glass is marginal. I would counter that a quality glass looks great on the table, and can’t hurt the wine. A poor quality glass looks bad, and may make your special wine taste all wrong. Go ahead, try the experiment at home.

New Release – 10 October 2010

When it comes to the great wines of the world, obvious varieties include cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay (not to mention the great Italian and Spanish varieties). Of all of these, shiraz would have to be the most versatile grape grown in Australia.

Wines made from shiraz can vary significantly in style depending on the region that they are produced in. Cool climate wines can be full of pretty perfume and peppery fruit, while warm climate wines can be rich and powerful. These differences can be seen in regions that are very close to each other. Barossa, Clare Valley and McLaren Vale all have regional differences that are unique and distinctive.

What this means is that shiraz is a very diverse grape that produces a range of styles. This tasting highlights how good these diverse styles can be. The quality of the wines tasted was extraordinary. This would have to be the best tasting the panel has faced this year!

Brian Conway from Izway popped in this week to talk about their range of wines. There is no doubt that the wines are outstanding. The Three Brians Grenache is outstanding. From 109-year-old vines, there is a degree of concentration and finesse that is very rare. We have reviewed the Harold shiraz in this tasting. A fantastic wine in a rich style. These wines are expensive, but worth a try*.

* The Izway wines are not cheap, are relatively new to the market and have great packaging (although they have high quality corks, I would prefer an inert closure). These are quintessentially rich, old vines Barossa wines. Definitely worth a try!

Reviewed

Dalwhinnie – Shiraz – Southwest Rocks – 2008 (18.6). Cedar and a touch of vanilla to the floral nose. These continue on the palate. This has more of a sour cherry and plum fruit character that keeps the finish really fresh. The length is superb, and this proved to be the best match for food and Heather’s favourite (we had a glass over dinner).

Dalwhinnie – Shiraz – The Pinnacle – 2008 (18.5). A touch more dense, displaying both red and black fruits. White pepper combines with anise in an amalgam of aromas that are convincing and enticing. The palate is flooded with plum, spice, blueberry and licorice. The palate is quite seamless, yet the acids and tannins are firm enough to guarantee cellaring. Very youthful.

Izway – Shiraz – Harold – 2008 (18.5). Some mintiness fruit to the dense fruit. A very inky wine that is really dense and has latent power. The palate is immense and powerful, with chocolate and coffee flavours and even a touch of mint slice. Not a mainstream style, but a very impressive wine. Some plum and spice add interest on the close. Very fine and silky tannins become evident on the finish. No signs of heat on the finish.

St Hallett – Shiraz – Blackwell – 2008 (18.5). Impenetrable nose. Silky, textured, seamless and powerful, this renmains elegant throughout. There are lovely spice and plum characters, with lovely berry fruit. The length and oak integration are excellent. A superb and complete wine that has the hallmarks of greatness.

Dalwhinnie – Shiraz – The Eagle – 2005 (18.4). Remarkably youthful. Quite closed and more “serious”. Opens with some minerality and then very pretty fruit. Again there is a lovely floral note with spice overtones. The palate is dense and closed, yet everything is in place in what is an excellent wine. It needs more time than to open. (Caveat – High quality cork used).

St Hallett – Shiraz – Old Block – 2007 (18.4). More powerful and a touch inky. Dense, high quality fruit here. Wow, this is superb. The fruit is bright and fresh, yet there is a savoury character that is really exciting. The juicy fruit is long and the palate textured. The oak is evident, but balanced. A very powerful wine, yet elegant and drinkable. Perhaps the most convincing Barossa red that I have tasted from the 2007 vintage, and one with a long life assured.

Arete – Shiraz – 2008 – (18.2). Mint and cedar on the nose suggesting a vineyard that is a touch cooler. This is perfectly ripe and incredibly dense. The mouth-feel and texture are very good and the rich fruit characters dominate the supple finish. This is an impressive wine. The packaging is also very impressive, complete with metal label and oversized bottle. (Even the screw cap is much bigger than normal).

Mount Avoca – Shiraz – Reserve – 2007 (18.1). Another pretty wine. Fragrant and juicy, there are red currant and floral notes on this. Very pretty fruit on the palate combines with well judged use of cedary oak and a lovely pepper/berry finish. Note quite as dense as the Arete, but no worse off for this. A very fine wine.

Shaw and Smith – Shiraz – 2008 (18). Beautifully fragrant fruit on the nose. Savoury and complex, with mocha, cedar and spice. The palate is defined by pristine fruit. This is seamless, complex, very long and very fine. Quite superb.

Leasingham – Shiraz – Bin 61 – 2008 (17.5). Incredibly closed and dumb. This is a sound wine that has licorice, spice and some good oak use. The palate is long and a touch firm, but this will soften. Mocha and plum the dominant flavours. Needs years but delivers value. Powerful fruit.

Tintara – Shiraz – Horseshoe Row – 2008 (17.5). Closed on the nose. The palate is fantastic with fleshy, juicy fruit. There are cherry, plum and lovely spicy notes. The tannins and oak are very fine but mouth-coating and a touch dominant now. Give it 5 years.

Gilberts – Shiraz – Three Devils – 2007 (17). Not offering much on the nose initially. The palate really shines, with vibrant fruit that is juicy, yet has enough acidity and fine tannins to stop it getting blowsy. Great texture and length. Good short term drinking.

Western Ranges – Shiraz/Viognier – Julimar – 2007 (17). A touch earthy, showing leather, spice and saddle soap. The palate is succulent, long and fleshy. The finish is flooded with fine tannins that are chalky. Any oak is in the background. An old world style that will suit food.

Tintara – Shiraz – Chapter 3 – 2007 (16.5). Closed. Fresh fruit with redcurrant, cedar and spice. Not overly complex, but long and satisfying. The tannins are a touch grippy now, but these will settle.

New Release Tasting

1 April 2013

As many of you would remember, there was a time when this style of wine needed to be consumed as young as possible. This was a result of both the winemaking techniques employed at the time, as well as the use of cork as the closure.

The current crop of wines are made in a fresher style and closed under screw cap. The result is that the wines are positively youthful on release and have the ability to improve for a year or two in the bottle (or more in many cases). This was beautifully demonstrated by the wines from Celestial Bay. Whilst obviously made in a similar style, the extra age of the 2010 conferred a degree of richness and balance that was very attractive.

The wine of the tasting was the Squitchy Lane. An excellent example of the fumé (oaked) style that will provide plenty of drinking pleasure over the next 2 – 4 years.

Reviewed

Squitchy Lane – Sauvignon Blanc – Fumé Blanc – 2012 (17.7). A complex wine that has seen more attention from the winemakers than the others on show here. The barrel fermentation has imparted a creaminess to the palate, while the lees contact has added texture and depth. Lemony fruit and acid carry on to a finish that is long and drying. A very smart wine with excellent fruit quality and and acidity. It just needs a year for the oak to fully integrate.

Celestial Bay – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17.5). Developing just a touch and starting to show some complex/funky characters that are quite attractive. The lemony fruit on the palate is complemented, rather than dominated by the acidity. There is depth to the fruit flavour and this has developed in to a softer style that lingers.

Celestial Bay – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17.3). This is a very lemony wine, though there is a touch of complexity showing that suggests a touch of barrel ferment or extended lees contact. Long and savoury, this is a wine that I would like to drink. A chardonnay alternative?

Woody Nook – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Kelly’s Farewell – 2012 (17.2). Another wine that had unanimous support. Long, savoury, fresh and balance, the pristine fruit and taut limey acid drive the palate. A youthful wine with subtle power.

Celestial Bay – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17). A fresh and well made wine that is long and supple. There are no rough edges here and the citrus like acidity carries a finish that is very drying. Middle of the road in style and all the better for it.

Devils Lair – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Fifth Leg – 2012 (16.9). Closed on the nose when first opened, but develops pear, guava and a hint of herbs. This is quite a rich wine on the palate with grassy fruit over minerals, with a textural finish that lingers. Not your usual SSB, but a smart wine all the same with an attractive creaminess to the palate. Will be better with a year in bottle.

Xanadu – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Next of Kin – 2012 (16.9). Fresh and vibrant, the lemony acidity is the key feature of this wine right now. There is a touch of herbs, as well as crunchy pear and gentle floral notes. Tight and long, though the fruit is subdued. Great now cold on a warm afternoon, though I think this will be much better in a year or two.

Scuttlebutt – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2012 (16.8). Fresh and bright floral notes over nutty fruit characters. This is quite complex and suggestive of a touch of lees contact. In fact, there is a touch of phenolic richness to the wine. Long and savoury, this is a textural wine to savour rather than quaff.

Wrenoir – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Pip’s Vineyard – 2011 (16.7). Solid support from the entire panel for this wine. The nose leads off with nutty fruit that is gentle and mild. This is quite a neutral style, with perhaps a little lees work to add texture. The density of flavours and the textural component makes this one to pair with food.

Wrenoir – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Pip’s Vineyard – 2012 (16.7). A good effort here, with herbaceous, grassy fruit the dominant feature, but not showing any signs of greenness. There is good length and a salty/savoury tang on a finish that, while not bone dry, is fresh and alive. The acid is a touch dominant now, so a year or two in bottle will do this wine well.

Reviewed 23 January 2013

It was a fascinating exercise to look at the two pinots from Moss Wood. One is from Margaret River and the other from Mornington. Stylistically, the wines were quite different, with the feminine appeal of the Mornington being my pick.

I have not seen the Abel’s Tempest from Heemskerk before, but if this is an example of the quality of their wines, then I need to try some more.

Reviewed

Moss Wood – Pinot Noir – Mornington Peninsula – 2010 (17.8). This wine has ripe fruit that is precise and very refined. In fact, it has been superbly made and has no rough edges. The palate is gently textured and refined, with the oak there merely for support. The length of flavours on the finish is admirable. The next day this was even better, as the silky fruit had opened and the structure softened. A very good new-world pinot and an excellent drink!

Heemskerk – Pinot Noir – Abel’s Tempest – 2010 (17.5). Opens with complex, savoury, almost earthy aromas, with lovely fruit on show that has been well handled. The palate displays textured, vibrant fruit, though this is currently shut down by fine oak and tannins. Should evolve over the next few years. Beautifully made, this is a lighter style that opens in the glass to become an excellent drink. (If this is their second wine, I must try a bottle of their top wine!)

Spring Vale – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.2). Dense fruit that has some ripe fruit characters over stalky/whole bunch ferment aromas and flavours. Quite complex really, the fruit here is powerful, and really sweetens up with air. Quality fruit that has been well handled, this is a supple, pretty wine with excellent length. A good wine that is accessible now.

St Huberts – Pinot Noir – 2011 (16.5). Ripe cherry fruit, with pleasant stalky characters. The palate is fresh, with gentle spice and acidity to close. The fruit is not particularly dense, but has been handled well. Supple, uncomplicated drinking over the next few years.

Reviewed: 14 September 2011

I was pleased to be able to make it to the new release tasting put on by the Pannell Family. This was especially so because there were six vintages of Tete de Cuvee on tasting. My overall impression is that Picardy continues to evolve and mature as a maker and the wines have never been better. Bravo!

On a separate note, I had an interesting chat to Bill about Picardy’s continued use of corks. He assures me that since around 2005, the issues around cork taint have largely been resolved. I might explore this topic more at a later date.

As this was not a blind tasting, my points are a bit rubbery, hence the spread.

Reviewed

Picardy – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17). Lifted fruit on the nose. Think green pear with a touch of minerality. The palate is generous, round and balanced with hints of stonefruit. There is even a touch of creaminess to close.

Picardy – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5 – 18). Nice wine this. Forward, ripe fruit with nectarine and a touch of vanilla from the (quality) French oak. The texture of this wine is a highlight, though the oak needs to settle a touch. Give it a couple of years to blossom.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Fragrant and perfumed, with lovely gentle spice on the nose. This is really spicy on the palate. The fruit is just starting to open up and the palate has quite expressive fruit. Excellent length and texture, with black fruit in the cherry spectrum. I love the fact that this has none of the smoky bacon characters that Pemberton pinots can get.

Picardy – Shiraz – 2009 (18+). A very pretty wine! The nose is defined by fresh white pepper. The palate has more cracked white pepper with plenty of spice. This is elegant, refined and medium bodied, with excellent length and intensity. The wine really builds and has good mouth-feel. The tannins are silky and fine, while the oak only plays a supporting role.

Picardy – Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – 2009 (17). The most approachable of the current batch of reds. Opens with ripe red fruits and a touch of plum. This is soft, round and balanced. Drink now or in five years.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 1999 (NR). Well developed, yet there is still a degree of freshness to the red fruits. The palate is mouth-filling, round and long, while the balance is spot on. A touch of smoky bacon to close. Drinking well now.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2000 (NR). Quite developed and needs to be drunk up.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2002 (NR). Lovely complex nose displaying some funky, slightly feral aromas. The palate is long, complex and beautifully developed. My pick to drink now.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2005 (NR). Much fresher, with bright red fruit. This is a lovely wine that, whilst starting to show developed characters, is still quite tight. Excellent length with some smoky notes to close.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2007 (18 – 18.5). Closed and tight, it is the mouth-feel that is the highlight of this wine. There are some vibrant fruit characters, precise structural components and excellent texture. A special wine.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2008 (18 – 18.5). Similar in style to the 2007, with a superb palate. The structure is spot on too. This is an easier wine to drink young than the ’07, but still deserves time in the cellar to show its best.