24 May 2010

There is a movement out there called ABC (Anything But Chardonnay), but I believe that this has no relevance these days. Fifteen years ago Australian chardonnays tended to be very ripe and rich. They made up in power what they lacked in sophistication.

As a rule, Australia now makes a much finer style that is more balanced and restrained. This has lead to a variety of styles from the various regions producing chardonnay. This tasting highlighted the quality of the wines superbly, with Frankland, Victoria and Margaret River all providing wines of quality.

For those of you who avoid chardonnay, please get hold of a bottle of the Galafrey unwooded chardonnay. This has the liveliness of an SSB, but with a different flavour spectrum.

Tasted

Forest Hill – Chardonnay 2008 (18.1). Wow, this smells really familiar yet is quite intriguing. The nose has sticking plaster, mineral, spice and a touch of antiseptic (a good thing). Well judged oak complements the flinty palate. This is balanced, textured and dense. High quality fruit is complemented by fine oak. Almost burgundian.

Shadowfax – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.9). More lemon and subtle barrel ferment characters here. Creamier on the palate, with more of the lemony oak and fresh acid, Needs a year or two to settle down, but excellent. Excellent mouth-feel and texture with a touch of grapefruit to close.

Forest Hill – Chardonnay – Block 8 – 2007 (17.7). Minerals, lees, barrel ferment and stonefruit lead a complex nose. Some curry leaf too. This is complex, with high quality fruit and excellent oak handling. The long and supple finish really lingers with very tight oak influence. This is quite tight and will improve for a few years.

MadFish – Chardonnay – Sideways – 2009 (17.7). Closed to start. Wow, this has it all, with lemon, stonefruit, creamy oak that is very fine and lovely mouth-feel. Very restrained and very modern, this has good length. May develop more complexity with a year or two in bottle.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.5+). This is very young and closed. The high quality fruit is very fine and elegant. There is a density to the palate that only opens with plenty of air. This may well be a star, but it is too soon to know. We tend to think of red wines when it comes to decanting, but this is a great example of a white to decant now or cellar for several years.

Galafrey – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2008 (17.4+) Fresh, with lemon zest, peach and topical notes on the nose. The palate has lovely cashew nut fruit and a mealy texture. A touch of viscosity from lees adds interest. Well made and sure to improve with a year or two in bottle.

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Verse One – 2009 (17.2). This is complex and interesting. Lemon and grapefruit to start, and it develops really peachy fruit. Restrained oak helps with the texture and mouth-feel. Very good value.

Galafrey – Semillon – Reserve – 2009 (17+). Rounded, generous and mouth-filling, with plenty of grassy fruit. There is a touch of viscosity and good length. Fresh fruit to close, this will get better. (I accidentally slipped this into the line-up, and it did very well considering).

Angove – Chardonnay – Limestone Coast – 2008 (16.8). This is quite good again. The fruit is of good quality and has been handled well. The oak grip on the finish is a touch assertive right now.

Ferngrove – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.8). Balanced, soft and rounded. Creamy, soft and fine. This is a good drink.

Galafrey – Chardonnay – Unwooded – 2009 (16.8). Almost sauvignon blanc-like, this is so fresh and tropical. Uncomplicated, refreshing and lively on the palate, this is a great alternative to a SSB. Bring on spring.

Windrush – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.7). Fresh and a touch floral. This has a vibrant palate with some citrus and tropical fruit. Oak not obvious.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Next of Kin – 2009 (16.7). Closed but this has quite a lemony nose. Almost lemon meringue pie. Starts of with good fruit and finishes with lemony oak, fresh acid, vanilla and plenty of zest.

Windrush – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.6). A well made wine from start to finish. This is varietally correct and good drinking. Could do with a touch more fruit concentration.

MadFish – Chardonnay – Gold Turtle – 2009 (16.5). This is just too young now. There are quality components, but they have not come together yet.

Angove – Chardonnay – Organic – 2009 (16.5). This is a sound, well made wine. If Organic is your thing, then this is a good place to start.