Negociants Australia

24 March 2010

Negociants Australia is the distribution arm of Yalumba. They have (arguably) the biggest range of high quality imported wines of any wholesaler in Australia. Unfortunately, we do not receive samples from Negociants to put into our panel tastings. (Everyone complain to Tim Evans).

When John Jens phoned me to say that Negociants were hosting a tasting of wines from their portfolio, I jumped at the opportunity to attend. Our exposure to imported wines is low and tastings like this allow me to refresh my palate. I must point out that the wines were not tried blind, so label bias may apply.

From a learning perspective, the highlight of the tasting was the range of sauvignon blancs from St Clair. To see the stylistic differences between different vineyards from the same maker/grape/year was illuminating. It must be a marketing nightmare trying to get bottle shops to stock more than one of the wines though.

As you will see from my notes, there was a selection of high quality wines. My only caveat is that these wines come a long way to get to Perth, and their carbon footprint is significant compared to a local bottle, (I am a closet greenie).

Tasted

Saint Clair – Sauvignon Blanc – Wairau Reserve – 2009 (18.5). This wine is restrained and tight. A powerful wine displaying lemon and lime as well as tropical fruit in the passionfruit spectrum. Whilst textured and very long, it is the balance of the wine that sets it apart. One of the best NZ sauvignon blancs I can remember.

Saint Clair – Sauvignon Blanc – Pioneer Block 2 – 2009 (18). Wow. This has more of everything. Pungent (good) nose of lantana, lime juice and passionfruit. The palate has ripe passionfruit. and crisp lemony acid. Good texture and mouth-feel too. The tropical characters build in the glass.

Saint Clair – Sauvignon Blanc – Pioneer Block 19 – 2009 (17.8). More grassy and herbaceous nose. The palate is viscous, complex and finishes with lemony acid. An intense wine that builds fruit in the glass.

Saint Clair – Sauvignon Blanc – Pioneer Block 6 – 2009 (17.3). Closed and steely, this is much more austere. The palate is lemon brulee in a glass, and has good length. Will fill out and evolve with time.

Aldo Conterno – Barolo – 2005 (18.5). Made primarily from nebiolo, this is much lighter than a typical Australian red wine. There is even a touch of orange to the colour. Lovely fragrant nose with subtle spice. The palate is rich, concentrated and very long. Really builds in the mouth and has fine tannins that coat the mouth. Remarkably elegant finish for an impressive wine.

Gaja – Sito Moresco – 2006 (18.5). Really deep smelling with cabernet notes of red fruit and menthol. In the mouth this is tight, fine and incredibly silky. Some red fruits again on the palate, but this needs years to show its best. Fantastic wine made from nebiolo/merlot/cabernet.

Domaine De L’Arlot – Nuit St George – Premier Cru – Clos de L’Arlot – 2007 (18+). Sensational pinot noir! Ripe, dense and complex, this really evolves in the glass. Some smoke and tar add real complexity. The fruit quality is demonstrated on the palate, with fragrant red fruits and cherry. Really long and fine, the fruit is framed by fine oak. A pretty wine and a great example. (I just wish I could afford to drink it at $120).

Faively – Mercury – Clos de Myglands – 2005 (17.5+). More structured and firm than the L’Arlot. A powerful, masculine wine that needs several years to allow the fruit to emerge from the grippy palate.

Marc Bredif – Chenin Blanc- Vouvray – 2007 (17.5). Chenin Blanc. Lifted floral nose of real interest. The palate is a flood of rich apricot characters with sherbet. Textured and viscous in the mouth, the sugar sweetness fills out the palate. Guaranteed to age well.

Domaine de Ladoucette – Sancerre – Comte Lafond – 2007 (17.3). Made from sauvignon blanc, this is a bright wine with minerals and spice leading on the nose. The palate is long and focused with a lovely lemon zest character to add intensity. Good drinking.

Thieuley – Blanc – Bordeaux – 2008 (17+). Quite closed on the palate but with some floral, ripe fruit characters. The palate is creamy, textured and long. Some barrel ferment characters, but very clean. A blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon and should be good value.

Weingut Bernhard Ott – Gruner Veltliner – Fass 4 – 2008 (17.2). An intense wine showing mineral and spice over citrus rind. Oily palate is typical of the style and the lemony fruit dominates a textured palate. Will improve.

Egon Muller – Riesling – Scharzhof – 2007 (17). Floral hints lead to slate and minerals with a hint of lemon sorbet. The minerally texture continues on the palate with some honeyed fruit. A touch of sugar on the palate makes for a lovely drink.

Lager de Cervera – Albarino – 2008 (17). From Rias Biaxas, the home of albarino, this is aromatic and lively. The palate has lemon sherbet, is long, viscous and juicy.

JJ Vincent – Bourgogne Blanc – 2007 (16.9). Developed and round. Nutty fruit with minerals and a degree of viscosity to the honeyed palate. Not intense, but good drinking.

Oliver Leflaive – Bourgogne Blanc – Les Setilles – 2007 (16.8). Clean and fresh, with cashew nut and minerals. Not complex, but satisfying.