Cellar Select

8 March 2010

Perth Flying Squadron Yacht Club

Jill Lyons from Cellar Select (Wholesalers) arranged a trade day at Perth Flying Squadron Yacht Club to allow the producers she represents to share their wines and philosophies with restaurateurs and retailers to increase their profile.

I find these tastings invaluable as it allows a cross section of several producers’ wines to be tasted in one venue. The tastings are also a trap for a wine nut, as I am keen to try all the wines on offer. Over the years, I have seen many people achieve this task and sample 50+ wines over a few hours, and the results are not pretty. This is exacerbated by the fact that those attempting this feat often do not spit out the wine.

To limit the amount of time these tastings take, I try to target particular styles of wines. At this tasting, I tried to focus on the mainstream varieties of the regions from where they were produced.

The highlight of the tasting was looking at the range from Lost Lake. The two pinots in particular really spoke of where they came from. They both had a smoky/dusty character that I have seen in many of the Picardy pinots. This is not that surprising as the vineyards are neighbours, and were once part of the same farm. One to watch!

A special thanks to Jill for giving us the opportunity to try these wines and meet the people behind them. My tasting notes are a bit sparse, as it is hard to make detailed notes in this format. This was not a blind tasting in general, so my points may be a bit generous.

Tasted

Hamelin Bay – Cabernet – Five Ashes Reserve – 2007 (18). Dense dark fruit with ripe blackcurrant overtones. Points mainly for potential, as this has a lovely textured palate, with cinnamon and cedary oak. For the cellar.

Lost Lake – Pinot Noir – Barrel Select – 2008 (17.7). Dense, with a core of ripe fruit. The palate is expansive, with ripe cherry fruit interwoven with new oak inputs. There is a touch of smokiness on the ripe, clean finish. A solid effort that displays its regionality.

Hamelin Bay – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.5). Plenty of stone-fruit characters, but the nose is quite closed at present. The palate is textured and minerally, and displays some passionfruit, curry leaf and clove. Give it a few years to really sing.

Ironwood – Chardonnay – 2007. (17.5+). Quite a big, rich wine with some stone-fruit, vanilla, pineapple and buttery/creamy oak. The palate has more of the creamy oak, is long and has good structure. Ready to go, but not current release.

Lost Lake – Cabernet – Barrel Select (17.5+). Textbook Western Australian cabernet aromas, with a touch of eucalypt and mint that does not detract from the red fruits. A fine and elegant wine with dusty tannins that remain in balance. Will improve for a few years.

Lost Lake – Chardonnay – Single Vineyard – 2008 (17.5). Long, fine and lemony with very complimentary oak use. Needs a few years to settle down.

Woodgate – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2008 (17.5). Closed, tight and hinting at its potential. Has creamy/peachy fruit on the palate with rich pineapple characters typical of the Mendoza clone of chardonnay (50% in this case). Drink the 07 while you are waiting for the 08 to come around. At around $20, both Woodgate chardonnays are good value.

Ironwood – Riesling – 2008 (17.4). Lovely lime juice held in check by tight, steely acidity.One to watch and good value.

Schutz – Shiraz – Red Nectar – 2007 (17.3). I am starting to get a better understanding of 2007 shiraz from the Barossa. 2007 was a challenging year, and the wines lack the mid-palate density of the best. Wines like this are very enjoyable though, with fragrant, spicy, almost juicy fruit. The tannins are ripe and the mouth-feel is excellent. Good drinking over the next 5 years.

Woodgate – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.2). A very textural wine that really highlights the wine-making inputs. Worked, creamy and complex nose with quality oak. The palate shows barrel ferment characters and the benefits of lees stirring in a rich textured wine. One for chardonnay lovers.

Lost Lake – Shiraz – Single Vineyard – 2008 (17+). Closed and tight with a fragrant nose showing plenty of pepper and spice. Supple in the mouth with a silky texture and good length. Will only get better.

Hamelin Bay – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17). Fragrant nose with floral accents, the palate is clear, fresh zest and long. There is plenty of lemony fruit and a touch of sherbet to close.

Lost Lake – Pinot Noir – Single Vineyard – 2008 (17). Fragrant and spicy nose which continues on the palate with a touch of smokiness and dusty characters. This is long, supple and textured. If you like Picardy pinot, then this is worth a try.

Ironwood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2006 (16.9). Quite forward, with some ripe berry characters. The palate shows dense fruit along with some savoury red fruit characters.

Ironwood – Shiraz – 2007 (16.8). Dense and deep smelling. This is quite a textural wine that has some cherry and plum, but is more about mouth-feel with a pleasant souring finish. Serve with food.

Maiolo – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.3). A slightly damp smell suppresses the fruit up front on what is quite a rich and textured wine. The palate is where it gets interesting with some worked, barrel ferment characters to the fresh fruit.