19 April 2010
My good friend John Jens always says that, when it comes to wine, perspective is everything. It was with this in mind that we headed to Bouchard on Mount Street to attend the launch of the 2007 Art Series Chardonnay from Leeuwin Estate.
The event, put together by Paul and the team at Vintage Cellars in Shenton Park consisted of a vertical tasting of both the chardonnay and the Art Series cabernet sauvignon. To cap things off, Denis Horgan was on hand to add some more perspective to the evening.
After starting with the current release riesling, we got down to business with the 2004, 2005, 2006 & 2007 chardonnays. They say that 05 & 07 were great years for reds in Margaret River, but they were also great years for Leeuwin chardonnay. The wines were sublime.
Over the years I have found the cabernets from Leeuwin to be a little variable. I still have some of the 1991 and these are drinking a treat now, but other vintages have not excited me as much. This changed with the 2004 vintage. I have tasted most of the Margaret River cabernets from that vintage and the Leeuwin would be in my top 5. It is an excellent wine. The 2005 however, is even better. This is a star.
Vintage Cellars had a great deal available on the night, and I am trying to negotiate the same deal for our subscribers. I will keep you posted.
Tasted
Leeuwin Estate – Riesling – Art Series – 2009 (18). Very fresh, with lime juice, imperial leather soap and floral notes too. The palate is quite a contrast with a really steely character and a very long finish. This is a tightly coiled spring that will slowly unwind over many years.
Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2004 (18.2). Lovely nose with floral notes over vanillin oak and some wine-maker’s inputs (barrel ferment and lees characters). There is a touch of smoky toast to the oak. The palate is quite gorgeous. This is a rich style that is starting to show the benefits of bottle aging. The slight grip on the finish prevented it from getting a gold medal.
Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2005 ( 18.7). Much tighter and more focused than the 2004, the fruit is quite restrained. Whilst the palate is restrained and tight, this is super long and very fine indeed. The palate is silky and seamless, and the fruit and wine-making inputs are completely integrated. A superstar!
Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2006 (NR). My glass was quite flat and atypical. I have previously given this 18.5.
Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2007 (18.8). More floral again and really creamy. This is very subtle right now. The palate is seamless, though very tight, with chalky minerals and a touch of spice. This has incredible length and texture, and it really builds in the mouth. Possible even better than the 2005, but it will take 10 – 15 years to know for sure.
Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet – Art Series – 2002 (16.8). Quite developed, with mint and eucalypt and a touch of leafy characters. Nice mouth-feel and texture, with some cedar/cigar box overtones. Lacks the fruit weight of the best.
Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet – Art Series – 2003 (17.8). Riper and more youthful, this is fragrant and quite elegant. The palate is more masculine with a firm and textured finish. The fruit is quite vibrant, and the wine is quite seamless. The fruit richness is evident on a palate that is complex and developed. Good drinking.
Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet – Art Series – 2004 (18.5). Wow, a real step up in complexity and vibrancy. There are some cedary characters over dark fruit. Yes, there is blackcurrant, but not in the cassis/candy spectrum. The palate is quite superb. Blackcurrant, cherry, spice and mocha all make a presence. There is lovely rich fruit and excellent texture/palate weight. Very long and quite complete.
Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet – Art Series – 2005 (18.6). Lovely floral characters on the nose (think violets in the style of a Margeaux). Even though there are pretty fruit characters, this is really closed and only hints at its potential. In some ways, this reminds me of Cullen’s Diana Madeline at its best. The silky tannins are really fine. I was lucky enough to see this in a blind tasting of the best 2005 cabernets from Margaret River, and this was definitely in the top 3. Needs many years, but I have ordered some already.