A Boot-full of Wine
Tasting notes from Italy (and beyond!)
7 November 2010
Though the dichotomy between growers and makers has blurred somewhat over the years, with more vigneron producers on the one hand, and extended vineyard holdings by makers on the other, the peculiarity of the separation of growers and producers in Champagne continues. Though quality can vary among the large houses, due to their buying power, there is more consistency of quality.
Among growers, quality levels can vary much more. Note that where a vigneron or grower is located influences greatly the varietal type/s used, and therefore the style of wines produced.
The Grandes Marques of Champagne are responsible for over two thirds of the production of Champagne, and around 90% of Champagne exports. This is despite growers in Champagne owning 90% of the vineyard land!
The Champagnes reported on below were tasted at a large Champagne tasting, highlighting growers’ Champagne in particular. All in all there were 27 producers represented by 124 different wines! The tasting was hosted by Vinoteca Al Chianti, a wine shop on the outskirts of Florence, on Chianti’s doorstep. I am choosing to highlight those producers that particularly caught my eye – or should I say, my palate.
Reviewd
Gatinois
A small producer located in the Montagne de Reims, most of the vines in this area are Pinot Noir, and all Gatinois vineyards are Grand Cru. Bollinger is also in the area, and indeed Gatinois sell some grapes to them.
Gatinois – Ay – Grand Cru Reserve Brut (17.5). (85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay) The essence of red fruit and apples. Crisp and fresh lively creamy mousse with some biscuity notes. 17.5 pts
Tarlant
A family run operation since, they claim, 1687, located in the Marne Valley.
Tarlant – Brut Zero – NV (17). Zero dosage in this blend with equal thirds of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Crisp, clean, bone dry, uncomplicated. Would be a great aperitif wine. 17 pts
Tarlant – Brut Prestige – 1996 (18.5). (65% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir) Amazing wine – great body and length with almond, brioche and honeyed characters with lively citrus fruit still very much in evidence. Fresh acidity, possibly contributed to by minimal, if any malolactic fermentation. 18.5 pts
Henriet Bazin
Again, located in the Grand Cru villages of Verzy and Verzenay in the Montagne de Reims, this is mainly Pinot Noir country. They use steel tanks – no oak, and like the house of Roederer, avoid malolactic fermentation. I think Ross Duke stock Bazin wines.
Henriet Bazin – Champagne- Grand Cru – Blanc de Noirs – NV (18). Red fruit and flint with bready hints, and even a touch of oysters – which would certainly make them a perfect match for this wine! 18 pts
Henriet Bazin – Champagne Grand Cru – Brut Millesime 2004 – (17.25). A lovely textured wine, with both Pinot Noir (70%) and Chardonnay (30%) components contributing – red fruits, mineral notes and citrus, with a lovely rounded mouthfeel. 17.25 points
Henriet Bazin – Champagne ‘Carte Or’ – Brut Premier Cru – 2005 (17.75). The Chardonnay component hails from Premier Cru vineyards, hence the designation. Complex, with yeasty autolytic characters and flavours from secondary development with age – caramel and honey notes. 17.75 pts
Barnaut Edmont
Located in the Montagne de Reims, the property is in the Grand Cru vineyard of Bouzy.
Barnaut Edmont – Champagne Blanc de Noirs Brut Grand Cru Again, red fruit character on the palate, fine mousse, good acid, well balanced. Some brioche character evident. 17.25 pts
Barnaut Edmont – Champagne Grand Reserve Millesimé Grand Cru – 2000 (18.25). Toasty, biscuity and honey flavours from evolution in the bottle. Peach and citrus evident on the palate. 50% each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 6g dosage. 18.25 pts
Marc Chauvet
Situated in Rilly la Montagne, a village in the Montagne de Reims and classed “premier cru”.
Marc Chauvet – Champagne Brut Selection – NV (18).One of their “base” wines, composed of 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, this was the best value for money at the tasting (34 Euro/ A$50). Fresh and crisp, with citrus and nectarine fruit. More feminine and less “angular” than the Pinot dominant wines above. 18 pts
Coulon
Coulon – Millesime – 2002 (18).This is a Blanc de Noirs consisting of half each components of Pinot Noir and Meunier. It spends 5 years on lees before disgorgement (ie current vintage actually 2003). Dosage is at 5g/l. A versatile Champagne, with excellent red and white fruit aromas, could be an aperitif or food wine. 18 pts
Coulon – Cuveé Prestige – “Les Coteaux de Vallier” Premier Cru – NV ( 18.5). This Chardonnay dominant (80%) Champagne has spent 10 years aging in the Coulon cellars. Post primary fermentation, the Chardonnay component spends 12 months in barrels on its lees. The result is a complex and rich wine, with stonefruit, brioche/toast, butter and honey flavours which retains an fresh acid lift. 18.5 pts
Raymond Boulard
These guys have over 10 ha of vineyards spread over the Montagne de Reims and the Valleé de la Marne, including Grand Cru holdings in Mailly. I tried two of the three on offer and both were sensational.
Raymond Boulard – Grand Cru Mailly Brut – NV (18.5). (90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay) Complex and long, with red fruit and biscuit characters. There is a proportion (about 15%) of old reserve wine vinified in oak. Dosage at 7g/l. Website says full malolactic fermentation. 18.5 pts
Raymond Boulard – Petraea XCVII Brut Solera En Futs – NV (18.5). (60% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir) Petraea refers to the oak quercus petraea. This explanation is lifted from their website: “Every year, the wine from the latest harvest, vinified and aged separately, is incorporated in the blend (up to ¼ of the whole quantity) and an equal quantity is then taken from the blend for bottling. This principle known as ” Solera ” assures the presence of old wines in the blend.” That is, the blend contains 75% reserve wine, at least a minute quantity dating back to when the “solera” was begun over 50 years ago. The result is a complex fuller bodied style superbly suited to food. I’m pretty sure Ross Duke has wines from Boulard. 18.5 pts
Paul Dethune
Again, a small operation, with 7 hectares of vineyards in the Montagne de Reims, all Grand Cru.
Paul Dethune – Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs – NV (17.75). (100% Pinot Noir) The use of barrel aging evident on nose. Fine structure with spicy notes and yet subtlety. 17.75 pts
Paul Dethune – Champagne Cuveé Prestige – “Princesse Des Thunes” – NV (18). (A blend of 50% each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this wine displays bready characters, preserved apricot and lemon zest and has great length, complexity and elegance. 18 pts
Final thoughts It occurs to me that I have highlighted more wines with Pinot dominance, possibly reflecting my own taste preferences. Also, a significant number of vigneron producers still use traditional barrel maturation techniques, more so, I would venture to suggest, than non-grower Champagne.
Ciao for now!
Brendan Jansen