New Release Tasting
24 November 2010
Pinot noir is a most frustrating grape variety. At its best, the wines possess an almost ethereal character that has aficionados paying hundreds, (even thousands) of dollars a bottle. Often, however, the wines lack any redeeming features, as pinot is a difficult grape to get right in the vineyard, and is also fickle in the winery as well.
With this in mind, pinot noir tastings are the most anticipated that the Fine Wine Club tasting panel judge. It is the hope of finding that mystical wine that hooks us in, though the reality is usually much more painful.
The highlight of this tasting were the two wines from Ostler. I do not know anything about them, but the quality suggests that they are an outfit to follow closely. The Peregrine was great drinking and the Provenance good value.
Of the whites, the Yerring Station is worth a try. It took a couple of days to show its best, but this is an interesting wine. The Nicolas Feuilatte was excellent drinking.
Reviewed – Friends
Nicolas Feuilatte – Champagne – Reserve Particulare – NV (17.9). Quite complex and dense, this has powerful, (though fine) fruit. The palate has lovely red berry fruit characters, suggesting a higher use of pinot noir in the blend. The texture and mouth-feel are excellent. This will get even higher marks with a little bottle age to allow the fruit to open up.
Yerring Station – Marsanne/Viognier/Roussanne – MVR – 2008 (17.8). Very restrained compared to the other whites here. The palate is pristine, pure, restrained, taut, racy and long. The mouth-feel is good and the finish mouth-watering. Whilst very subtle, this has plenty to offer and really hit its straps after being open for two days.
Barwick Estate – Viognier – The Collectables – 2007 (17.2). This wine polarised the panel. Complex, textured, powerful and long, the palate is viscous with nutty fruit characters. The phenolics are a bit less pronounced than in the Millbrook, and the extra bottle age is evident. One reviewer found the palate somewhat fat.
Millbrook – Viognier – Limited Release – 2009 (17). This received mixed reviews. This is a powerful and complex wine. There is apricot, almond and a very viscous mouth-feel. One reviewer felt the phenolics overpowered the fruit somewhat.
Millbrook – Viognier – Estate – 2009 (16.8). Reserved, oily, viscous, tight and long. There is not as much going on here, but this is perhaps the best drink right now.
Gabbiano – Asti – NV (16.5). Fine yet very persistent bead. Pretty nose with floral and grape juice notes. Plenty of floral fruit and sugar sweetness on the palate, though I would have preferred a touch more acid to offset the sweetness a little more. Value.
Reviewed – Pinot Noir
Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2008 (18+). Very powerful fruit. Pretty fruit characters on the nose, though the latent structure is holding everything in check. The palate is long and dense, and the quality of the fruit is evident. The textural components are a highlight, as demonstrated by the silky mouth-feel. Give it a few years and this will be superb.
Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2009 (18). Fragrant and very pretty nose of red berries. The quality of the fruit is highlighted by the ripe fruit notes and excellent fruit weight. Texture is a highlight on the palate with dense fruit in the cherry spectrum. There are also hints of truffle/forest floor on a silky, slippery and supple finish. This is drinking really well now.
Provenance – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.7). Seductive nose! This is silky, fragrant and gently spiced, with excellent fruit quality. The palate is long and nicely weighted. There is a touch of earthy textures and oak tannins on the finish. Very promising wine, and good value at around $30.
Peregrine – Pinot Noir – 2008 – (17.5/18). The real sleeper of the tasting. A lighter style, with more spice over fresh red berries. Whilst closed, this is light, fresh, and easy to drink. With time in the glass, this developed lovely sappy fruit and real depth of flavour. After two days on the tasting bench, this showed very well!
Curly Flats – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.5). A wine in two parts. There is a seductive nose showing hints of strawberry, stone-fruit and earthy/gamey highlights. The palate, however, is very structured, firm and austere. There is good length, but the finish is drying. This could go either way, but my points indicate that I actually liked it.
Barwick Estate – Pinot Noir – The Collectables – 2008 (17/17.5). Starts out firm and muscular, and the cherry/plum fruit is restrained. There is a touch of bacon fat on the nose, typical of the region/oak treatment. This really opened up with time, and the pretty fruit and texture were a highlight.
Ant Moore – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). An interesting wine. Powerful, textured, nutty and dense. Will age well. (More akin to a dry red in style and would have received higher marks in a tasting with wines other than pinot).
Peregrine – Pinot Noir – Saddleback – 2008 (17). Fragrant plum, spice and strawberry. Quite medium bodied, this has pretty fruit. Not as complex as the best, but good drinking and not bad value for a pinot.
Clemens Hill – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.8). Crimson colour. In some ways this is more shiraz like, with sweet fruit, lovely mouth-feel and fine tannins on a textured finish. This represents good drinking, though it is not strictly pinot-like.
Rau – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.5). More weight than some here. Fresh fruit on the nose and high acidity on the finish. May evolve.