During the year we receive dozens of wines from each of the mainstream varieties. This makes it easy to put together a line up of 15 – 20 wines made from a single grape or in a similar style. We also receive a wide variety of wines that are not mainstream in Australia. Today’s tasting provided an opportunity to look through a range of wines made from less common grapes.

The wines from Millbrook really caught my attention. Along with Yalumba, Millbrook is producing some of the best examples of a grape that was made famous in the northern Rhone Valley. Small amounts of viognier have been grown alongside the shiraz in Cote Rotie. Often this would be picked and fermented with the shiraz. This has been embraced by the Australian wine industry and there are now hundreds of shiraz/viognier blends on the market.

If you would like to try a viognier from the Rhone, look for wines labelled Condrieau. These can be powerful wines and this was certainly reflected in the wines from Millbrook.

Finally, a word on the savagnin from Banrock Station. This is the first wine the panel has come across made from this obscure French white grape. This grape has an interesting story. The vines come from the CSIRO, but were sold as albarino (Spanish Grape). In the last few years there have been quite a few albarinos made and sold in Australia from these vines. DNA testing showed that the vines were actually savagnin.

Whilst there has been much debate in the industry as to how to manage the situation, Max Allen (Weekend Australian Magazine) quite rightly points out that the wines must be labelled as savignin, and we should embrace the floral/savoury characteristics that these wines are capable of producing.

Reviewed

Millbrook – Viognier – 2008 (18). Richer colour. Some apricot and musk on the nose, with complex lees and barrel ferment characters. The palate is powerful, complex, honeyed and with apricot stone fruit. The mouth-feel is viscous and long and the finish has dried apricots and bitter almond to close. Good value at $20 and an interesting alternative to a NZ sauvignon blanc

Millbrook – Viognier – Estate – 2008 (17.8+). Clean and fresh fruit on the nose with some apricot and white fleshed peach and orange peel. Long and viscous on the palate but not as forward as the Perth Hills Wine. Some grippy, nutty characters to close with subtle bitter almond adding freshness. A very classy wine. Will evolve over 2-3 years and is a wine that everyone should try.

Marri Wood Park – Chenin Blanc – Reserve – 2006 (17.4). Oak characters to open on the nose with grassy fruit. The palate initially shows the effect of the oak treatment, followed by lemony fruit. The fruit really builds intensity and the finish is long, fine, restrained and quite lovely. Needs another year to integrate. Acidity keeps things fresh. Worth a try as an interesting alternative to a chardonnay.

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2008 (16.8). Quite simple to start with some caramel notes on the nose. The palate has lemon with a really creamy texture. The finish is not as long as some, but a credible effort (I do not really understand semillon that well).

Vasse Felix – Semillon – 2008 (16.6). Unusual “cat’s pee” aroma. Grassy with quite green fruit characters. The palate is bright, lean, long and shows barrel ferment characters. Refreshing, but may need a few years to settle. At 11% alcohol this must have been picked quite early (as is the case with many Hunter Valley semillons).

Banrock Station – Savagnin – Mediterranean Collection – 2009 (16.5). Lime juice, almost riesling – like. Lime cordial on the palate and very viscous mouth – feel. Well made and interesting. Try with Chinese food.

Capel Vale – Verdelho – Debut – 2009 (16.5). A touch more forward than the 2008, this has lovely fruit. The palate is more viscous and has good acid. Lacks intensity on the finish though.

Optimiste – Pinot Gris – 2009 (16.5). Racy and steely nose showing lemon and a hint of brulee. This is quite oily/viscous in the mouth, with a powerful finish showing some barrel ferment characters. Not typical but satisfying.

Drakesbrook – Viognier – 2009 (16.4). Light and fresh, but not complex. Has hints of lifted fruit. The palate is clean, fresh and vibrant, but in a simple un-oaked style. Good quaffing.

Capel Vale – Verdelho – Debut – 2008 (16). Clean and fresh with a touch of passionfruit. The palate is bright, zesty, and crisp. Finishes with fresh acid. Pleasant drinking and has some character.