5 January 2010

Through the course of a year we taste hundreds of wines from each of the mainstream varieties (shiraz, chardonnay etc). This allows the panel to look at a single variety at most tastings. This is an acid test, as each wine is being compared against all others in the line up. Over the year, we receive wines from less common varieties as well. This tasting allowed us to look through a range of wines.

The surprise for me was the Moondah Brook verdelho. In the late 1990s through to the early 2000s, these wines were of high quality and delivered extra-ordinary value. It was apparent that Houghton was including a large proportion of premium South-West fruit in the blends. Whilst I am yet to see the latest red wines, the verdelho was a real treat.

On a different note, the Grossett Off-Dry riesling was a revelation. This has the purity of fruit typical of the Watervale region in the Clare Valley, but possessed a drinkability courtesy of the residual sugar that was outstanding. In one vintage, this has surely become the benchmark for the style in Australia. (Mr Grossett has made several previous vintages of this style, but this is the first that he has released under the Grossett label.

Finally, for a cheap sparkling wine, the Griffith Park is a good quaff.

Reviewed

Grossett – Riesling – Off Dry – 2010 (18.4). Subtler than the other two rieslings, this is much more akin to a dry riesling in style, with some tropical fruit notes and lemon sherbet. The intensity of fruit on the palate is outstanding and the length is incredible. The finish is pure lime juice, with the residual sugar playing the perfect foil to the acidity. Give it time. A joy to drink!

Houghton – White Classic – 2004 (17.8). Lemony fruit dominates the nose. The aromas are complex, with a touch of match strike and flint (I actually thought there were some barrel ferment characters). The palate manages to remain balanced and textured with quite an elegant finish. The age was indicated by some honey and toastiness to close. Definitely worth a try.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Bimbimbi – 2010 (17.5). Intense precise nose, with floral fruit notes. Musk and a touch of lime. Piercing fruit on the palate, but without the ultimate depth of the Grossett. Extremely long and fine, the sugar balances the acid well. Lime fruit to close. Not mainstream.

Momo – Pinot Gris (17.4). Floral and sherbet-like on the nose. There is also a touch of apricot nectar on a ripe nose. Mouth-filling and textured, this has excellent intensity and quality fruit. The length is a highlight as are the stone fruit characters. Fantastic texture and aromatics.

Moondah Brook – Verdelho – 2009 (17). Fresh and zesty nose. Bright tropical fruit on the palate, with a touch of grassiness. The line and length are both very good and the crisp acid makes for very fine summer drinking.

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2009 (17+). Floral notes and stone fruit on the nose with a touch of wine-making inputs. The palate has marmalade and a touch of viscosity. Peachy fruit and finely textured oak on the close. Two days later, this was a joy to drink!

Voyager Estate – Chenin Blanc – 2010 (17). Perfumed and floral, this is quite pristine and fresh. There is really juicy fruit with some tropical notes developing on the finish. Reasonable length and a touch of residual sugar make for an excellent summer drink. (This got better with a day in the bottle).

Wild Rock – Pinot Gris – Sur Lie – 2009 (16.8). Floral and a touch oily on the nose. The palate is rich, round and textured. There is a touch of phenolics on the finish that adds complexity. Good length, but not particularly intense fruit.

Griffith Park – Brut – NV (16.7). Sweet ripe fruit on the nose with a hint of yeasty notes. Clean and fresh, the palate has an appropriate level of sugar sweetness to fill out the mid-palate. A persistent finish that is round and generous makes this a perfect summer quaff. Good value.

Angove – Pinot Grigio – Nine Vines – 2010 (16.4). Quite lifted and aromatic. There is a touch of apricot kernel and almond. The palate is oily, and the phenolics add grip to the finish. Serve cold.

Alkoomi – Riesling – Late Harvest – 2010 (16.8). Germanic in the way the complex citrus notes have a core of minerals running through the nose. Sweeter than the first, this is rich, viscous and balanced with a touch of talc on the close. There is not quite enough acid to balance the sweetness, and I would like a touch more fruit intensity.