New Release

Reviewed – 11 June 2011

Pinot Noir is a grape that continues to fascinate wine enthusiasts. When made well, the wines are totally seductive. Just the slightest hiccup in the vineyard or winery, however, renders the wine virtually undrinkable.

Unlike shiraz which appears to produce good wines in almost any climate, pinot noir requires very specific and often marginal conditions to produce quality grapes. What this means is that everything has to go well in a given year to make quality wine.

So, good pinot is hard to find, and generally expensive to buy. With this in mind, I am delighted to tell you about the Geppetto pinot from Crittenden Estate. In a fairly strong line up of wines, this performed well. What makes it remarkable though is the fact that it will sell for under $25. This is definitely one to try.

We also looked at a high quality bracket of Cabernets. The Cape Mentelle – Trinders was a highlight and excellent value.

Reviewed

Jackson Estate – Pinot Noir – Vintage Widow – 2009 (18). Dense ripe fruit, with lovely aromas of cherry, spice and red fruits. Powerful fruit that is ripe and fragrant. The palate is redolent in spice and cherries with gentle tar to close. Yes the oak and tannins are noticeable, but the fruit is superb.

Stoniers – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Juicy fruit that is ripe and fragrant. Seductive and silky and quite powerful fruit. There are complex forest floor and earthy notes. The oak shuts down the fruit at first, but again, this is a seductive wine that blossomed in the glass.

Villa Maria – Pinot Noir – Cellar Selection – 2008 (18). Restrained and tight nose at first. The palate is silky, supple and long. The fruit is subdued at present, but builds intensity in the glass. Lighter fruit weight but excellent balance, with forest floor complexity and sappy acid to close. This really shone the next day with a pork dish.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – Geppetto – 2010 (17.9). Firm and earthy, but with dense, ripe and textured fruit. Long, fine and dense, the fruit quality is excellent, and the length a highlight. Really builds in the mouth with excellent texture. Almost chocolate fruit to close with polished oak. A great drink!

Tollana – Pinot Noir – Robinson Family Vineyard – 2008 (17.8). Another wine that caused much discussion. A lovely nose, though this wine was the most obvious of all tasted here. Seductive, rich and refined, the fruit in the palate is powerful. There are earthy, gamey notes and sour cherry acidity that really adds interest. Long, dense and powerful, this is excellent current drinking while waiting for the others to mature.

Marchand and Birch – Pinot Noir – Mount Barrow – 2010. (17.7+). More mainstream Australian style. This shows lean yet ripe fruit that needs a few years to open up. Long and savoury, the fruit is tight and shy. Opens to show cherry, tar and fine oak. Excellent fruit weight and a quality finish. The length is a highlight. This took two days to show its best. Give it 5 years at least before you drink it.

Millbrook – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.7). Fragrant red fruits, but with some herbal and cherry notes that add interest. Dense and ripe, this hints at potential. Opens to show pretty fruit, though the quality oak needs time to settle. Excellent length and a silky finish. Definitely worth a try. (Made from Great Southern fruit).

Nanny Goat Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). This wine divided the panel. I found developed earth and forest floor aromas, over ripe red fruits. The palate is a riot of red berries, strawberries and oak. The finish is long and dense, with a somewhat viscous texture and mouth-feel. For those who like their pinots on the wild side. (This is another wine that improved after a day or two).

Provenance – Pinot Noir – Geelong – 2009 (16.8). Lovely perfumed nose. Strawberry, cherry, but with some earthy complexity. Forward and generous nose. Good fruit weight but not as long or concentrated as the best here. The finish is firm and tarry. A good wine.

And Cabernet

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2009 (18). Closed and restrained though there is ripe fruit and a lift provided by the vanillin oak. A flavour profile that is ripe but very restrained. Fantastic texture and length to the palate. Not as dense as some, but an excellent wine. Develops menthol and eucalypt notes to close. Worth a try!

Grant Burge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Corryton Park – 2009 (17.5). A bigger style from a warmer region. Ripe, dense and vibrant fruit showing blackcurrant and menthol. Chocolate, oak and fine tannins all play on the tongue. Superb fruit and wine making, but in a different style. Excellent balance and mouth-feel that is textured, dense and chewy. Excellent length to a very smart wine. (Cork closure).