23 October 2011
The purpose of this tasting was to look at some pre-release samples from the excellent 2009 vintage. The challenge here is to look for the potential as many of the wines are quite immature. Thanks to Ross Laurence from Fine Wine Wholesalers for inviting me to be a part of the tasting.
Laurent Chardigny – Bourgogne – 2010 (15.8). Pretty nose of strawberry and cherry. Simple cherry fruit. Souring acidity adds freshness, but lacks vitality.
Danjean-Berthoux – Givry – 2009 (16.5 – 17). Some vanillin oak comes over the top of the red fruits. Plenty of red fruits underneath, but a more “serious” style. The palate is rich, dense and long. The fruit had real depth, and the wine has been made to last a few years. Good length and texture.
Danjean-Berthoux – Givry – 1er Cru – Clos du Cras Long – 2009 (17 – 17.5). Again, sweet fruit and sweet vanillin/coconut oak. Quite immature and awkward. Chewy and textured, this needs time to come together. Will be good though.
Domaine D’Ardhuy – Cote de Beaune Villages – 2009 (NR).
Domaine D’Ardhuy Beaune – Premier Cru – Champs Pimonts – 2009 (15.5). Cherry, but complex earthy notes. Salty/savoury edge to the palate, but again, not me. A rustic style.
Domaine D’Ardhuy – Cote de Nuits – Villages – Clos des Langres – 2009 (16). A touch of pong here. Earthy, leathery notes dominate the nose. The palate is dry and unyielding. Old fashioned wine making that needs time. The rest of the groups favourite.
Domaine D’Ardhuy – Savigny – 1er Cru – Les Peuillets – 2009 (16.5 – 17). Lovely nose here. More in the cherry spectrum, with hints of tar and aniseed. Aniseed and even a hint of pepper to the palate with good texture and intensity. Floral soap.
Domaine D’Ardhuy – Corton Renardes – Grand Cru – 2009 (17.5+). Pretty red fruits. Spicy notes and quality, tight knit oak on the nose. This is an impressive wine of some substance. Real density. Needs years, but a very smart wine. The acidity really builds, so this should age well.
Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Cote de Nuits – Villages – 2009 (17). Better balance here and a lovely nose. Silky red fruits with berries and hints of savour plum. Perhaps a touch of oak on the finish, but this, and the fine fruit tannins make this excellent early consumption.
Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut Aloxe-Corton – Vieilles – Vignes – 2009 (17 – 17.5). Nice wine this. Feminine and seductive nose. Pretty red fruits on the palate. Not over-encumbered by oak, so easier to approach and understand now. Perfume, cherry and spice. Touch of cedary oak to close.
Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Corton – Grand Cru – Les Hautes Mourottes – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Closed. Has some menthol and spice. This is impressive, but just a baby. Silky, spice. Very elegant and refined, this is very classy. Chewy and savoury fruit to close, with nice balance.
Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Laoix – Clos Royer – 2009 (16.5). Red fruits to the fore. An attractive blend of red fruits and sour cherry. The palate is savoury, though the mouthwatering acidity makes it hard to evaluate.
Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Ladoix – 1er Cru – La Corvee – 2009 (17.5+). More of the sour cherry notes. With hints of savoury spice. Understated, but quite complex. The palate is dense and taught with the savoury tannins completely closing down the fruit. Very drying finish. Complex and persistent, this needs years, but is a very smart wine.
Chateau – Genot-Boulanger – Mercury – Premier Cru – 2009 (16.5). Better balance to the oak here. Silky. Supple fruit that has a more savoury edge. Cherry and hints of plum over fine but assertive tannins. Quite light bodied and fine – drink 3 – 5 years.
Chateau – Genot-Boulanger – Pommard – 2009 (17 – 17.5 ). A better blend of fresh fruit and complex, earthy aromas. A touch on the feral side for me, but many will love the leathery/savoury complexity with a touch of stewed rhubarb. Chewy, savoury palate that has some appeal. If you like your wines on the wild side.
Chateau – Genot-Boulanger Aloxe-Corton – 1er Cru – Clos du Chapitre – 2009 (17.5+). Again, a touch of earthiness here. Seductive red fruits and subtle spice to an appealing nose. The palate is flooded by dense, ripe fruit. The tannins are fine and the finish long and fine. Builds intensity. Very smart wine with real depth.
Vaudoisey – Creusefond – Auxey-Duresses Val – 1er Cru – 2009 (16.5 – 17). Unusual style that takes a bit of air to open up. Leathery, savoury notes of dark fruits, but the winemaking is good. Quite long, but rather closed on the palate.
Vaudoisey – Creusefond – Volnay – 2009 (17.5). An elegant wine of some note. Again, closed and shy, but there is a vein of peppery red fruits running through the palate. The tannins a firm but fine and the finish chewy and nicely weighted. Good persistence and length.
Michel Noellat et Fils – Nuits Saint Georges – 2009 (16.5+). Quite closed though there is lovely silky, spicy notes. This is savoury and a touch sappy. Simple fruit, but totally delicious drinking.
Michel Noellat et Fils – Vosne-Romanee – 1er Cru – Les Beaux Monts – 2009 (18+). Pretty wine. This has lovely floral fruit, though the weight on the palate is impressive indeed. Very long, textured and beautifully weighted, this is both feminine and taught. The finish is finally shut down by extraordinarily fine tannins that really build. This is a great each way bet, as it is both delicious now, but has enough structure to age for ten or more years.
Michel Noellat et Fils – Chambolle Musigny – 2009 (17.5+). Lovely nose. More sour cherry than ripe fruit, this is a savoury wine that demands food. The palate is quite seamless, and the balance excellent. It just needs a year or two to open up.
Marchand – Grillot – Morey – Saint – Denis – 2009 (17.5). Cherry and berry fruit on the nose. The palate is where it is all happening. Mouth filling, savoury, supple and spicing. The tannins build on the finish, closing down the dense fruit. Long and fine, this is a classy wine. The texture is excellent and the fruit builds in the mouth. Chocolate to close.
Marchand – Grillot Gevrey – Chambertin – En Songe – 2009 (17). Closed and tight, this has plenty of potential. The palate however gives me a slight shudder as the balance is not there yet. Give it a year.
Vincent Ravaut – Chambolle-Musigny – 1er Cru – Les Baudes – 2009 (17.8 – 18.2). Closed and retiring. This is all potential. Lovely ripe fruits emerge from the structural shadows. The palate is silky and feminine and the intensity of the fruit is better than most here. Excellent length and the fruit builds. Very fine tannins and oak to close. Will be an excellent drink in 5 years.