Vertical Tasting.
Reviewed: 19th January 2014
The reputation of Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon needs no introduction. It is one of Australia’s iconic white wines. Along with the Lovedale Semillon from McWilliams, this represents the pinnacle of Hunter Valley semillon.
The challenge for un-oaked semillon is that, outside of NSW, not many people have a lot of experience drinking this style of wine. Sure, there are some lovely semillons from the Barossa and Clare, but these have typically spent time in barrel.
I approached this tasting with a sense of anticipation as it provided the opportunity to gain a greater understanding of how Hunter Valley Semillon develops, and importantly, to see just how good the Vat 1 is. There was much discussion amongst those present about what to expect. There were questions about style and also about aging possibilities.
What was most interesting was the commentary from attendees around when to drink these wines. The young wines were so delicious that, initially, several tasters did not see the point of aging them any further. This was until they tried the older wines.
By the end of the tasting, the point for discussion was “just how long will these wines continue to age?” Good bottles of the older wines were a revelation as they were outstanding drinking, but still had the potential to age further. The wines were nothing short of brilliant.
There was consensus about a few points though:
- The Vat 1 Semillon is one of Australia’s great white wines.
- Under screw-cap, they present tremendous aging potential.
- The 1997 was the clear favourite, (closely followed by 2013 and 2007 for me personally).
A special thanks must go to Mick Hutchins who generously provided the wines from his cellar!
Bracket One
Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2013 (18.3+). Pure and bright! Quite savoury, with lanolin and a delicious creamy character. There is lemon-like fruit on the palate, though this is remarkably restrained and fine. The superb length/persistence and mouth-feel are the key here, though this wine really only hints at potential. Seamless, with air it develops perfume and minerality, and is a wonderful drink, (reminds me of a great Polish Hill riesling). $40 ex-winery.
Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2009 (17.7). Lovely honeyed notes on the nose and palate, with hints of peach, toast and brioche. The palate is fine and taut, but has built more richness compared to the 2008. The acidity remains in the lemon spectrum. Drinks remarkably well now, but sure to develop more.
Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2008 (18.5). Much more perfume than the previous wines. Gentle talc and floral notes to the fore on the nose. The palate is restrained and taut, with precise lemon acidity and a near seamless palate. Remarkable wine at the start of a very long journey.
Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2007 (18.7). More in common with the 2013 than the 2009. Fresh, taut, steely and filled with mineral-like complexity. Developed floral fruit with air. Remarkable purity and balance. A great wine.
Bracket Two
Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2006 (18). Another steely, mineral-driven wine, with talc and musk notes on the nose. The palate is near seamless, with the precise fruit cutting through the finish. Supple, subtle and very long. Needs a few years to evolve, but was superb drinking once it opened up.
Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2005 (17.8). Quite closed and austere on the nose, but opened to show complex citrus characters. The palate is actually quite thick and viscous, but the finish perhaps lacks a little drive. Drinking well now, the gentle toasty notes on this continue to build long after the fruit has subsided.
Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2000 (18). The first wine under cork and a much more golden colour. The nose has both honey and caramel notes. The palate is glorious, with honeyed fruit offset by bright, fresh acidity that adds a lemony zing to the finish. Full developed and drinking a treat.
Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 1999 (18.5). More restrained than the 2000, and more balanced. There is delicate fruit with hints of minerals and talc. This has some of the toasty notes that were evident on the 2005, but still has remarkable freshness and balance. A superb wine that is drinking superbly, but is also capable of aging further.
Bracket Three
Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 1998 (17.5). Very golden colour, darker than the 97 and 95. Honey, mushroom and truffle on the nose. The palate has amazing lemony acid, though the fruit is very subdued, making the palate a touch unbalanced. But this opens up with time in the glass, developing complexity and length. A very good drink, but perhaps not the best bottle.
Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 1997 (19). The lightest colour of all the wines under cork! Amazingly fresh on the nose. This has all of the subtle, floral characters of the 2007 and 2013, with the merest hint of toast and caramel. The palate is rich, round and viscous, with lemon/lime brûlée, tropical fruit and gentle, toasty complexity. Incredibly youthful, this is a great wine!
Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 1995 (18.3). Closed and taut, this is remarkably elegant and delicate, with gentle toast and caramel notes. Not as dense as the 97, but a lovely drink, with still fresh acid.
Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 1993 (17.3). Very developed colour. The palate is notable for the lack of toast. This is a gentle wine that, whilst a good drink, lacks the depth of the best here.