Ata Rangi: New Zealand’s Finest Pinot?
Barry Weinman: 22nd October 2017
Over the last decade Central Otago Pinot Noir has gone from strength to strength, producing rich and seductive Pinots of ever increasing quality. Yet before many of these wineries were even established, Ata Rangi in Martinborough was already producing some of the finest new-world wines made from Pinot Noir.
It must be noted that the Ata Rangi style is different, with less of the fleshiness, and more structure and energy. The Pinot Noir is also age-worthy: I recently opened a bottle of the 2002 and it was drinking brilliantly, despite coming from the most difficult vintage of the decade. Fortunately, by 2002, the winery had already switched to screw caps!
The first vintage at Ata Rangi was in 1984, with current winemaker Helen Masters at the helm since 2003. Whilst Pinot is what the winery is best known for, the rest of the range does not disappoint, with complexity and texture being common themes that run through the entire range.
If you only try one new-world Pinot this year, then this should be it.
Current Release
Ata Rangi – Sauvignon Blanc – 2016. Made in a different style to Marlborough, in the pursuit of texture. 10% of the fruit is barrel fermented on skins, whilst another 50% is fermented in large old barrels. Savoury characters abound over a touch of passionfruit, citrus and musk. Savoury and grassy, there is refreshing acidity to close.
Ata Rangi – Chardonnay – Craighall – 2015. Complex and fine, with some worked notes and oak over lemon zest . This is restrained and textured, with oak and mineral/flint characters to close. It will age very well in the medium term. From three vineyards, all planted to Mendoza clone, whole bunch pressed and fermented in 300l oak barrels (25% new).
Ata Rangi – Pinot Gris – Lismore – 2016. Restrained, yet textured with pear and peach fruit notes. The slightly viscous mouth-feel on the palate is a highlight. Food friendly, this has only 5gm/l of residual sugar and a portion was fermented in barrel (old oak).
Ata Rangi – Rose – 2016. Made from Merlot, Shiraz and Pinot. The juice is left on skins for a few hours to increase texture, but also giving the wine a pretty salmon hue. A refreshing, textured wine that is more serious than most, and is sure to accompany food well. The winery has been making this for 20 years, however this is the 1st time it is available in Australia.
Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – Crimson – A vibrant wine, with a lighter colour and pretty berry fruit characters. The floral, gently spiced fruit gives way to lovely texture and mouth-feel. Made from fruit from the estate’s younger vines (less than 20 years), 20% new oak, no whole bunch fermentation, this is delightful drinking.
Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2015. More depth to the colour. Perfumed and floral, with summer berry fruit. The palate is silky, textured, fine, elegant and savoury. Gets quite chewy on the finish, with the very fine tannins and oak blanketing the fruit to close. This is a spectacular wine that reaffirms Ata Rangi’s reputation as one of the great Pinot producers (35% new oak and 30% whole bunch fermented).