Pinot Noir: April 2021
Barry Weinman: 8th March 2021
For many wine lovers, Pinot Noir remains the holy grail of wine drinking. There is the potential to produce great great wines, however the variety can be almost impossible to get right in less than ideal climatic conditions. to get right in the vineyard and in the winery.
High demand combined with inconsistent quality and quantity (due to climatic variations) has seen the price of great Pinot from Burgundy skyrocket. The best producers and villages now demand prices that extend to thousands of dollars per bottle.
But the good news for drinkers is that the quality of new world wines has never been better.
Unconstrained by rigid rules and regulations, producers have been able to find sites that offer excellent growing conditions, without the extreme climatic variations that make life so difficult in France.
Tasmania, Yarra Valley and Adelaide Hills are just some of the regions in Australia producing consistently high-quality wines.
In WA, both Pemberton and the Great Southern (esp. Denmark and Porrongorups) are capable of producing excellent wines. New Zealand and the USA are also showing great results.
The downside for consumers though is that prices remain relatively high.
Reviewed
Grosset – Piccadilly Valley – Pinot Noir – 2019. Crimson colour. Beautiful, fragrant nose that is supple, lithe, elegant and refined. The palate is all about precision. Excellent oak handling and a silky texture add to the enjoyment. There is excellent length to close. A delightful, age worthy wine. 95pts – $80.
Etude – North Canyon Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2016. Serious fruit weight and depth, with strawberry notes building in the glass. This has more savoury notes, with textural oak and graphite-like tannins adding to the mouthfeel. A few years in the bottle should see this relax and open up. 94-95pts.
Cherubino – Pannoo Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2019.A meatier, earthy wine that has minerals, texture, depth and power. Chewy, yet supple mouthfeel, with cherry-like acidity carrying the finish. An excellent, food friendly wine that with air, expressed lovely cherry and strawberry fruit notes. 93 – 94pts – $65.
Au Bon Climat – Santa Barbara County – Pinot Noir – 2018. There is an immediacy about this wine that is quite special. Supple, ripe, silky textured and long, this is great current drinking. But there is depth of flavours behind this, with excellent acidity and structure. Serious and good. 94pts.