New Releases: November 2021
Barry Weinman: 24th November 2021
The importance of serving wines at the correct temperature was highlighted to me with this tasting. We were lucky enough to taste through a range of Pinots from Lowestoft, the Fogarty Wine Group’s new venture in Tasmania.
Initial impressions were very good, but the wines were served a little warm, as they had arrived in a car just before the tasting.
So it was difficult to get an accurate read on the absolute quality, as the temperature masked some of the wine’s elegance and balance.
Definitely a winery to watch!
From South Australia, it is great to see the continued evolution of Sevenhill in the Clare Valley. 2021 is the first vintage since the last of the major structural changes were made, and the first wine that I have tried from the vintage (27 Mile Riesling is a cracker).
There was also a strong showing from some of the 2020 wines. I, for one, am excited to be able to see the changes made in the vineyard and winery translate into high quality wines.
Closer to home, Houghton delighted the panel with their fragrant 2020 Wisdom Pinot, whilst the excellent 2019 Rosabrook Dear Father Cabernet is a bargain at $35 from the cellar door.
Reviewed
Sevenhill – 27 Miles – Riesling – 2021. The changes in the vineyard and winery at Sevenhill are evident here. Lovely Clare fruit showing slate, lemon and mineral notes. The palate is taut and refreshing, with hints of floral sherbet. The elegance and silky texture are a feature on the finish. Age-worthy and very good. 93+pts – $50
Sevenhill – Spire’s Lament – Viognier – 2020. Pretty floral notes on the nose matched to a fresh, vibrant, zesty palate, with a lovely, slightly viscous texture and excellent fruit weight. Apricot fruit builds on the long finish. Delicious, this is summer in a glass. 91pts – $45.
Sevenhill – Open Range – Grenache – 2020. Pretty and supple, with bright juicy berry fruit supported by gentle savoury notes. On the palate, this is all about the joyful fruit, with gentle winemaking inputs adding to the package. Not complicated or serious but an excellent drink. The potential at Sevenhill is starting to show with this wine. 92pts – $80.
Leo Buring – Leonay – DW17 – Riesling – 2021. A different style to many, and all the better for it. This is supple, savoury and seamless, with a core of citrus running the length of the palate. Lemony acidity builds in the mouth, with floral notes and a dusting of talc on the finish. Intense yet delicious. And very age-worthy. Only 11% alc. 95pts.
Houghton – Wisdom – Pinot Noir – 2020. Another excellent release from Houghton. This is fine, elegant and moreish with excellent mouthfeel and texture. The balance is spot-on straight from the bottle. Delicious drinking now – five years. 91pts.
Trait – Sauvignon Blanc – 2021. Cloudy as this is unfiltered and unfined (production was too small apparently). I like this a lot. Vibrant fruit, with tropical and floral notes leads to a palate that is textured and complex, really benefiting from the barrel ferment (old oak) and lees work. Lemony acidity carries the finish. An interesting and impactful wine that will evolve over the next 6 – 12 months. 92pts – $35
Lowestoft – Lowestoft Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2019. Whilst the fruit here is lighter in style, this has seen the gamut of winemaking inputs, albeit in a sympathetic way. Opens with almonds and cashew nut, develops pineapple and stonefruit and then transitions to lees, malo and oak (fine and tight). A youthful and elegant style showcasing modern winemaking and pristine cool-climate fruit. 95pts.
Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Chardonnay – 2020. Complex and worked, this is intense, powerful, dense and possessing great depth. The fruit is in the stonefruit spectrum but there is subtle grapefruit and melon notes sitting alongside this. The structure and texture are outstanding and the finish is very long and fine. I love it. From Wilyabrup. 95+pts – $60.
Rosabrook – Dear Father – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. This is intense and powerful, with quality fruit at the core. The balance is exemplary, with the fine textural notes providing a frame for the fruit. Delicious now but would also benefit from ten years in the cellar. A complete wine and a contender for best value Cabernet in 2021. 95pts – $35.