Let me get straight to the point. The 2024 Rieslings from Grosset are the best they have ever released
And the 2024 Polish Hill is at least as good as any Australian riesling I have ever had the privilege of tasting. It may very well be the greatest I have tried, but my memory is not good enough to say that definitively.
But it is worth noting that there does seem to be an evolution in style, especially for the Polish Hill and, to a lesser extent the Alea.
If you get the chance to try them, please let me know what you think. I am sure you will not be disappointed. I have bought all three for my cellar.
Reviewed.
Grosset – Polish Hill – Riesling – 2024. Pristine, vibrant, perfumed and extraordinarily pretty. This is just beautiful, and it is unlike almost any riesling I have had before (and I have had a few). The palate is silky and textured. Yet there is extraordinarily fine acid driving the finish, with a mere hint of phenolics adding to the texture. And it kept improving in the glass, developing layers of aromas and flavours. Pointing this wine does not do it justice, it is that good. 12.1% alc, 98pts – $80.
Grosset – Springvale – Riesling -2024. More subdued nose. But on the palate, this comes to life with energetic drive and great composure. Very long and fine, this is classic Clare riesling, with lime juice, gentle minerality and extraordinary texture. A wonderful wine. 12.5% alc – 96pts – $55.
Grosset – Alea – Riesling – 2024. Perfumed and gently spiced – a truly mesmerising nose. The palate has a generosity that stands this apart from the others in the range, the residual sugar playing an important part here. This is balanced by supple phenolics and super-fine acidity. A lovely drink and one that would be perfect on a warmer afternoon, served with some tapas. To quote the winery “This is the fifteenth vintage of the ‘European’ style from the Grosset Rockwood Vineyard with its hard red rock and poor orange/red loam soil.” 12.5% alc, 96pts – $48.
That the team at Deep Woods are making great wines should come as no surprise to anyone. Their show record over the last decade with cabernet is unmatched by anyone. And the chardonnays have quietly been amassing a swag of trophies and gold medals along the way.
This run of show success is likely to continue, given the superb quality of the upcoming spring releases.
What stood out with a tasting of the yet to be released premium 2023 chardonnays and 2022 cabernets was just how fantastic they are to drink right now. Don’t get me wrong, the wines (especially the cabernets) will age very well, but they are also immensely enjoyable on release.
According to the winemaking team, 2023 was a near perfect year for chardonnay, and it is easy to see why with wines like these. And the 2022 vintage for cabernet is being lauded far and wide.
When you factor in price, the offering is irresistible. The Reserve Chardonnay is likely to sell for $80 and the Reserve Cabernet for $90. A bargain on the world wine stage!
The wines are due for release in November and I, for one, will be queuing up to buy them.
NB. I reviewed the wines with Matt and Emma from the winemaking team in an unmasked tasting. Points are an indicator only.
Reviewed
Deep Woods – Single Vineyard – Albarino- 2024. The fruit for this wine comes from recent plantings on the Amadeus Vineyard in Wilyabrup. The aim of the winemaking was to preserve fruit and retain freshness. A goal that they have achieved very well. Aromas of nectarine and pear lead the nose, but it is the textural, slightly viscous palate where this really shines. Gentle phenolics, hints of lemon pith and lime-like acidity combine to make for an excellent wine to serve with salt and pepper squid. 12.5% alc, 93pts, $35.
Deep Woods – Single Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2023. Restrained and fine, yet quite deep and complex, the fine fruit and supple winemaking combining perfectly. The citrus and subtle peach fruit notes are supported by a silky texture and mineral-laden acidity. From a vineyard in Karridale, what is most remarkable is that the fruit is Gingin clone, yet it offers a tighter, more linear expression of the variety, where citrus has replaced the tropical notes. Will be great with foods such as grilled chorizo. 13.0% alc, 95pts – $50.00.
Deep Woods – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. This has everything turned up a notch. More depth of fruit, more complexity from the winemaking and more impact from the texturing oak. Here, the citrus has been replaced with the more typical tropical/pineapple acidity. Lees and barrel work add greatly, with minerality and struck match notes really adding to the mix. And there is tremendous length and persistence of flavours. The fruit is primarily from Wilyabrup and spent time in 35% new oak (a combination of barriques, hogs heads and puncheons). A superb wine that deserves to be considered amongst the region’s finest. 13.0% alc, 96pts – $80.00.
Deep Woods – G2 Single Vineyard – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Leads with a wonderful nose which includes blueberry and blackberry fruit. The resolved tannins and oak add supporting structure and mouthfeel, but do not impede the flow of the fruit in the slightest. Superb drinking and so, so long. Yes, it should age, but honestly, I would not bother as it is such a good drink now. 14.0% alc, 95pts – $50.00.
Deep Woods – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Wow, wow, wow. This is so impressive. The power, intensity, structure and complexity are turned up to 10, yet this is still only medium bodied and offers immediate drinking pleasure. Brilliant winemaking, the integrated, highly polished oak is a highlight. This is more blackcurrant and spice rather than blue fruits and the tremendous length and the mouthfeel is a rare pleasure. Despite all the power, this is elegance personified. A point of differentiation between this and many of the other great Margaret River cabernets is that this uses Yallingup fruit of the estate vineyard right out the front of the winery, as opposed to Wilyabrup fruit. 14.0% alc, 97pts – $90.00.
Deep Woods – Septimus – Single Vineyard – Cabernet Malbec – 2022. In comparison to the Reserve and G2, this is more impactful, swapping some of the polish from the Reserve and juiciness of the G2 and replacing these with raw power. With earthy undertones and a touch of herbs and spice, the savoury notes from the malbec really add. Having said that, this is still a slick, polished and sophisticated wine. Muscular and age-worthy, a fascinating counterpoint to the previous wines. 14.0% alc, 94pts – $50.00.
Given that he had spent more than a decade under the guidance of the legendary Ed Carr at Arras, the appointment of Nic Bowen in 2021 to the role of Chief Winemaker at Howard Park clearly signalled the winery’s intentions to be in the upper echelon of Australian sparkling wine producers.
And my first impressions on trying the sparkling wines that have been made under Nic’s stewardship are very positive indeed.
What I was not prepared for was just how breathtakingly good other wines in the portfolio have become.
In close partnership with senior winemaker Mark Bailey and the viticultural team (led by David Botting), the already good wines at Howard Park have been taken to another level.
The soon to be released 2022 cabernets and 2023 chardonnays are nothing short of extraordinary.
Members of the tasting panel sat down with Nic and Mark to hear about the approach that is being taken in the vineyard and winery which has led to the evolution of style across the range.
Despite the quality of the latest releases, the team are still striving to improve quality and the consistency of styles, with tweaks to the oak regime part of the jigsaw.
The establishment of a reserve wine program for the sparkling wines is another important initiative to further refine the style of the sparkling program.
N.B. This was not a blind tasting, please use my points as an indicator only.
Reviewed
Howard Park – Petit Jeté – Blanc de Blancs – NV. The aim for this wine is to offer a “compelling consumer offering”, and the team have delivered on this in spades. Fine, fresh and lithe, I really like the line and length of flavours on the palate. The gentle peach fruit really builds and is quite delightful. The ripeness of the fruit has allowed for an extra-brut style, with only 4gm/l dosage. 100% Pemberton fruit, 18 months on lees (2022 base wine), remarkable value. 92pts – $33.
Howard Park – Jeté – Premier Brut – NV. This a step up in richness and texture, the pinot fruit really adding to the mix. The autolytic characters add depth, texture and gentle richness. Despite all the work in the winery, the focus here is on preserving the quality fruit, which really builds in the mouth. There is a fine mousse and excellent mouthfeel. A pinot dominant blend, the fruit comes from the Mount Barrow Vineyard in Mt Barker. 3gm/l dosage. 30 months on lees. 2020 base. 93pts – $44.
Howard Park – Flint Rock – Riesling – 2023. The very pretty and perfumed fruit comes from Mt Barker and Frankland. The palate has has hints of of talc and zest, fine acidity and a minerality that adds zip to the finish. Lighter weight fruit and excellent drinking. 12.0% alc, 93pts – $30.
Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2023. This is very impactful, with ripe fruit and complex winemaking inputs flooding the senses. This is really very good. There is a richness and generosity running the length of the palate which develops pomelo/grapefruit notes in addition to more typical stone fruit characters. The acid is a highlight and adds drive to the finish. Great drinking now – 5 years. Hand picked, whole bunch pressed, 25% new oak puncheons. 12.5% alc, 95pts – $65.
Howard Park – Allingham – Chardonnay – 2023. Finer, more subtle and more restrained than the estate. Not taut, but a little shy today. But that is not doing this wine justice, as the quality of the fruit and winemaking is superb. There is a dangerous drinkability to this wine, however, this will be really hitting its peak in 5+ years. The oak (25% new barriques) is very fine and textured, adding weight and gravitas rather than overt flavours. Only a small proportion went through malolactic fermentation. The fruit for this wine comes from the Block 5 on the Allingham vineyard in Karridale, which is planted to Gingin clone. The cooler subregion presenting a very refined style. 12.5% alc. 96pts – $100.
Marchand & Burch – Chardonnay – 2023. Here, things have been pared back and the texture and mouthfeel take centre stage. The acid is moving to pineapple, with the fruit adding white peach undertones. The quality oak is palpable, without being overt. Sitting in the glass, this blossoms. It is a higher acid style that demands food if drunk early, (tempura whiting for example), and will be at its best with medium term cellaring. From the Mount Barrow vineyard in Mt Barker, 40% new oak, partial malolactic fermentation.12.5% alc, 95-96pts – $95.
Howard Park – Flint Rock – Shiraz – 2023. The purple colour is most attractive. This is all about the fruit. Pretty, perfumed, lithe and fresh, with cherry, plum and gentle spice. Whilst the winemaking feels quite low intervention, the texture and mouthfeel are a highlight, with mineral-laden tannins adding depth and texture. Buy it, drink it, be happy. 14.0% alc, 93pts – $30.
Howard Park – Scotsdale – Shiraz – 2022. This turns things up a notch with greater depth and density of fruit. The overt berry characters have been toned down compared to the Flint Rock, but this is made up for with more structure and power. The cherry fruit builds, but it is the silky texture, supported by supple oak that is the highlight. Great drinking any time over the next 15 years. 14.0% alc, 94pts – $40.
Howard Park – Leston – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Oh wow. The prettiness of the fruit is arresting, supported by seasoned oak and firm tannins. This is not necessarily accessible, but it is impactful. With air, the presumed fruit really builds, and has clearly been protected during the winemaking process. Give it 10 years and be rewarded. 14.5% alc, 95pts – $TBC.
Howard Park – Abercrombie – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This takes everything to another level. Superb fruit which has hints of blueberry, but is much darker toned than the Miamup. The oak handling perfectly frames the fruit, allowing the fruit to be the focus, yet providing depth, power and texture. The mouthfeel and silky tannins are a highlight, contributing to a wine that is so approachable now, even thought it has clearly been built to age long term. Ultimately though, this is taut and closed, and needs years to reach its drinking peak. Wonderful wine. Houghton clone fruit, from the Leston vineyard,18 months in barriques (30% new). 14.5% alc – 97+pts – $155.
Sittella has been a favourite of mine for a number of years, driven by the high-quality wines on offer along with the outstanding quality/price ratio that they have offered.
Their name may not have the same cachet as some of the more prestigious WA producers, but I feel this relates more to the quiet, understated way they go about promoting themselves, along with the Berns family’s steadfast belief that they must deliver great value with everything they do, rather than any reflection on quality.
The premium wines in the range (Avant Garde and above) typically sell for between $40 and $60 a bottle which, given their quality, presents great buying and drinking opportunities.
I highlight the drinkability component as many of the wines are superb drinking on release. This is particularly apparent with the Avant Garde range.
With Yuri Berns now firmly in control of all aspects of winemaking, members of the Panel were keen to get some insight into the latest releases at Sittella.
Spend any time talking to Yuri and you will quickly come to understand that there is no luck or magic formula when it comes to producing the wines. There are several factors that come into play here.
An encyclopaedic knowledge of the varieties, clones and root-stock options of the grapes. This is built on the back of decades of tasting grapes in the vineyard to understand exactly what each clone/rootstock combination brings to table
A planting program based on this clonal knowledge to improve the overall quality of the harvest
Technical expertise
A desire to keep learning and developing, tapping into the knowledge of some of the industry’s best minds and palates
Hard work
Hard work
Hard work
One final piece in the puzzle is a modern winery with owners who are prepared to invest in quality.
The end result is excellent wines that offer tremendous value!
The 2019 sparkling wines have been released before the 2018 due to the stylistic differences. Given that the 19s are already drinking a treat, this seems like a smart decision.
Sparkling wines ready for disgorgement
And in 2019, Yuri has reduced the final pressure in bottle to “Cremant” style with the pressure reduced from six atmospheres down to four. This was done to produce an even finer mousse.
In a nod to Bollinger, the sparkling wines are now aged in oak (primarily older) in search of greater depth and complexity.
NB: Wines were not tasted blind. Points are an indicator only.
Reviewed
Sittella – Marie Christien Lugten – Grand Vintage – 2017. This smells like a serious wine. One that also happens to be sparkling. Pear, floral jasmine and an almost gewurtztraminer-like muskiness. On the palate, this really builds, developing a lovely creamy texture, with excellent length and palate weight. Excellent drinking indeed. 94pts. $55
Sittella – Louis Jack Berns – Blanc De Blanc – 2019. Fine mousse and a very fine and elegant nose. Taut, refined and supple, with excellent mouthfeel. Whilst bright and fresh on the palate, this is already drinking brilliantly with gentle brioche characters adding complexity and excellent length and persistence of flavours on the finish. 10% new oak. 95pts. $60
Sittella – Azalee Eloise Berns – Grand Vintage – Rose – 2019. This is quite lovely. Pretty rose gold/ copper colour. There is a gentle berry richness to both the nose and palate from the pinot, supported by fine acidity and textural components. The length is a real highlight. Subtle, supple and refined, this is fantastic current drinking. 90% pinot, the colour coming from the addition of 10% of wine taken off-skins to give the colour. The clonal selection is important in this wine, with numerous trials done before settling on the final clonal blend. 95pts. $60.
Sittella – Avant Garde – Albarino – 2024. This is very pretty, with the aromatics tending towards apricot and Turkish delight. The palate is viscous, textured and complex, with balancing acidity to keep the finish fresh and alive. There is a hint of honey on the close which is most attractive. Surprising and delicious! From a new vineyard opposite the winery, this is one to watch over the next few years as the style continues to evolve. 93pts. $33.
Sittella – Avant Garde – Chenin Blanc – 2024. What a cracking wine ! Whilst taut and fresh, with grapefruit/citrusy acid, the balance is brilliant and the flavours continue to evolve and build long after swallowing the wine. Age-worthy? Yes, but this should also be on everyone’s go to list this summer. Grapes come from the 1963 block on the old Houghton vineyard, the second oldest chenin block in the Swan Valley. The grapes are hand picked and whole bunch pressed. 95-96pts. $33.
Sittella – Avant Garde – Chardonnay – 2023. This smells both very impressive and also expensive, given the high-quality fruit, winemaking and oak that is on show. Structural components and taut acidity lurk on the periphery, adding mouthfeel and texture, without colouring the fruit which is the star of the show. Dangerously drinkable and a bargain. 95pts.
Sittella – Avant Garde – El Vivero Rouge – 2023. A field blend from the nursery vineyard opposite the winery. This is an amazing wine in the way the ripe fruit is the focus, yet it retains great freshness and balance. On the close, the talc-like tannins start to make their presence felt, but are not aggressive. A great wine to have with slow-cooked hearty winter fare such as lamb shanks or an eggplant parmigiana. 94pts. $40.
Sittella – Golden Mile – Grenache 2022. Yes, yes, yes! Love the colour, love the perfumed fruit, love drinking it. Smash it down and be happy! Interestingly, the glass I tasted this from had a big impact on the profile, with it looking much more serious and structured in a Riedel pinot glass than it did in a Riedel chianti glass. 95pts – $40.
Sittella – Coffee Rocks – Shiraz – 2021. Superb colour, taking on an almost iridescent hue. My tasting notes had a lot of “wows” written on them. The fruit is intense, powerful and impactful. This would benefit from a decade or more in the cellar, though after an hour in the glass, this really started to sing. 96pts. $60.
Sittella – Liqueur Verdelho – NV. Heaven in a glass. Intense, but not cloying. Viscous but retains freshness. Sweet, but balanced and vibrant. 97pts Why not? $100.
Across the month, there were a few wines that stunned the panel for their ridiculous value and quality. Wines that will delight this winter at a variety of price points.
Reviewed
Xanadu – Stevens Road – Cabernet Sauvignon 2021. OMG, this is good. Very good. Outstanding even. The quality of the fruit is superb, but it is the winemaking that takes this to another level altogether. Silky, supple and seamless, the gentle intensity and subtle power (Is there such a thing?) coalesce on the palate to make for an amazing experience. Age-worthy? Yes, but I can’t recall another cabernet of this quality drinking better than this on release. That said, as this sits in the glass, the intensity and structure start to really build. Fabulous. 13.5% alc – 96pts.
Singlefile – Grenache – 2023. Oooo, I like this a lot. Really pretty and supple with wonderful fragrant fruit characters. The palate is slurpable, gently spiced and downright fun. Yet this is a serious wine that should appeal to the connoisseur. The winemaking is very slick, serving to highlight the fruit, rather than colour the wine in any way. May age, but why bother? This provides huge drinking enjoyment right now. 13.6% alc – 95pts.
Singlefile – Run Free – Shiraz – 2023. There is a degree of gravitas to the wine which is surprising for a wine at this price point. There is decent density, texture and structure, yet this remains approachable and very enjoyable at this early stage of its development, with a supple mouthfeel and gentle tannins/acid on the finish. An excellent current drinking affordable shiraz. 13.6% – 93pts – $28.
Mount Langi Ghiran – Pepper Series – Shiraz – 2022. A very smart wine. Supple, savoury notes, red currant/berry fruit. Little in the way of oak. Excellent acidity carrying the finish. A bargain from Aldi. 14.0% – 92pts – $16.
Established in 1993, Picardy have been quietly forging a reputation for high quality wines from the Pemberton region for three decades now. And, when judged as a whole, the current releases are, in all likelihood, the best ever released by the Pannell family under the Picardy label.
Yes, the pinots are very good, but it was the SBS and the Chardonnay in particular that really set the tone.
I can’t recall the last time that John Jens took a wine home from a panel tasting to drink at home, but such was the quality of the Chardonnay, it went home with him to have with dinner that night.
Reviewed
Picardy – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon -2023. Grassy and gently herbaceous, with lemon pith adding complexity. The finish is firm and textured, the mouthfeel driven by lemony acidity. This is much better than a quaff, with gentle barrel ferment characters adding depth and texture. Fragrant, very well made and worthy of decent food, this is one to try if you see it by the glass. 12.5% alc, 93pts.
Picardy – Chardonnay 2023. This is a fine rendition of chardonnay. White peach and lemon dominate both the nose and palate, with subtle oak and winemaking inputs adding greatly to the package. Length and persistence are exemplary, with supple acidity adding drive on the finish. A very appealing wine that, with a few years in the bottle, should build greater depth. 12.5% alc, 94-95pts.
Pannell Family – Pinot Noir – 2022. Lighter and sappier than its bigger brothers, this is a very good quaff. But it just lacks the depth of the more expensive wines. The mineral laden finish is unusual as it evolves into sea spray-like saline characters, and this will come into its own when paired with food. I know it is a cliché, but duck confit would be a great match.13.5% alc. 91pts.
Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2022. A very pretty wine. Cherry, liquorice and spice make up the foreground, with complexity building minerality and an almost ferrous character adding greatly to the finish. This is supple enough to enjoy now (with or without food), but a few years in the cellar will see this build a lovely velvety texture and get even more expansive on the finish. An excellent pinot which is very well made. 14.0% alc. 94pts.
Picardy – Tête de cuvée- Pinot Noir – 2022. This is altogether more serious and powerful, yet magically, comes across as soft, supple and seamless straight out of the bottle. (OK, so I did use a glass). With air though, the power and intensity of this wine starts to express itself more fully. Density, structure, intensity – all the hallmarks of a fine wine. Five years in the cellar will see this start to sing as the fruit opens up and the finish starts to fan out. Again, minerality, and an almost saline tang brings the finish to life. 13.5% alc. 95+pts.
I love good pinot noir, and my obsession with the variety has been fuelled over the years by the challenges of finding high quality wines at affordable prices.
In recent times, the overall quality of Australian pinot has improved in consistency greatly, to the point where there are now a number of (relatively) affordable wines that offer excellent drinking.
The 3 Drops is an excellent example. $40 full price, with discounts for dozens from the winery.
And the panel were most impressed with the 2022 Bay of Fires pinot. At $63 this is not exactly cheap, but it is often discounted making for good buying.
My top pick is the 2021 Drumborg from Seppelt. A bargain at $45 or less.
Reviewed
3 Drops – Pinot Noir – 2023. Gorgeous, luminous colour. This is an excellent wine. There is supple cherry and plum fruit characters, with just a hint of aniseed and earthy complexity. The mouthfeel is defined by the fine acidity which imbues freshness and life. But as this sits in the glass, the fleshy fruit really starts to build. Ticks all the boxes and, while great drinking now, should develop nicely over the next 5 or so years. Made by Rob Diletti, fruit from the Patterson’s Vineyard, the wine spent 10 months in oak, 24% new. 13.5% alc – 93pts – $40.
Bay of Fires – Pinot Noir – 2022. This is a very smart wine, where the fruit and savoury notes play equally important roles. This has depth and intensity and there is a sense of gravitas to the mouthfeel. The tannins add grip and texture, the length and persistence are also a highlight. That said, it is the fruit that is the star. Modern and decent value for a top notch Tasmanian pinot. 13.5% alc, 95pts – $63.
Seppelt – Drumborg – Pinot Noir – 2021. A very interesting expression of pinot, with aromatic spices leading the bouquet, followed by pristine, ripe fruit. So fine and elegant, this is pretty (and delicious), yet it is serious enough to hold its own in any line up. After the tasting, I served the 2013 vintage of this wine, which highlighted the cellaring ability of the wine. Spent 9 months in oak (23% new).13.0% alc – 94pts – $45.
John Kosovich – Pinot Noir – 2021. Pretty berry fruit is overlaid with stalky, whole bunch complexity. The palate is fresh and has a degree of fleshiness that makes it very approachable. But the tannins and oak builds structure and adds greatly to the package. A good drink. 13.5% alc – 92pts. Shepherd’s Hut – Pinot Noir – 2022. This is good. Excellent fruit quality, fine acidity and gentle texture contribute to a supple mouthfeel. Gentle tannin grip and supple oak add the finishing touches. Ticks all the boxes for an early drinking pinot that won’t break the bank.13.5% alc- 92pts – $34.
Bachelet-Monnot – Bourgogne Rouge – Pinot Noir – 2021. Pristine, fine, elegant and focused, with silky mouthfeel and excellent length and persistence. This is not as dense or powerful as some, but makes up for it with great drinking pleasure. A modern interpretation of Burgundy and all the better for it (IMHO). 13.0% alc – 93pts.
Felton Road – Calvert – Pinot Noir – 2022. Oh wow. This is the bees’ knees. Fresh and bright, but with a core of ripe fruit that is most attractive. The mouthfeel, length and persistence are features, and are supported by a wonderful amalgam of ripe fruit, fine oak and skilful winemaking. Ready to go now, or over the next five years. 14.0% alc, 95+pts.
Nanny Goat – Super Nanny – Pinot Noir – 2020. Whilst there is a degree of prettiness to the fruit, this is a structured, cellar-worthy style. It is restrained, taut and refined, but it is only hinting at potential right now. The dark cherry fruit is admirably supported by well handled oak. 13.5% alc. – 95pts – $100.
Ata Rangi – Masters – Pinot Noir – 2020. There is a degree of wow here, but it is not in your face. Rather, it is a wine that demands quiet contemplation to appreciate the subtle, supple high quality fruit. The finish is fine and elegant, supported by gentle oak and feathery tannins with distinct minerality on the close. With air, this blossoms, A wonderful wine and my pick of the 2020 releases from Ata Rangi. 13.5% alc. – 96pts – $170.
It may seem a little unusual for a winery with Singlefile’s reputation to be singled out for value, but the panel was very impressed by the value on offer when looking through a range of new releases from the 2023 vintage.
The pinots appeared in a masked tasting of high quality wines and were amongst the cheapest in the tasting. But this did not prevent them from standing out for quality and drinkability.
The biggest surprise for me though, was the remarkably beautiful Vermentino from 2023. One of my wine highlights this year. Could this be the next variety to shine in the Great Southern? I hope so…
Reviewed
Singlefile – Single Vineyard – Mt Barker – Pinot Noir – 2023. This is in a different league to many of the pinots that the panel reviews. As expected, the pretty aromatic red berry and cherry fruit is the focus, but the wonderful silky structure is what sets this apart. Supple intensity, excellent length and persistence of flavours. Whilst this is a lovely drink now, you can sense that this is going to develop brilliantly in the bottle over the next 5 – 8 years. 13.7% alc. – 94pts – $37.
Singlefile – Run Free – Pinot Noir – 2023. Supple, fleshy and delicious. Not overly complex or serious, but who cares when you can drink a wine this slurpable at a price that is affordable enough to have with a mid-week bowl of pasta. From estate vineyards in Mt Barker and Albany. 13.8% alc. 90pts – $28.
Singlefile – Vermentino – 2023. Wonderful aromatics here. More savoury than floral, but captivating all the same. Lychee and marzipan notes build on a palate that is seamless, gently textured and showing a touch viscosity. The length of flavour is outstanding. I would take this over a SB every day of the week, and it would be brilliant with seafood. My suggestion is to not drink this too cold. Between 10 and 15 degrees seemed to be where it really shone. I can’t recommend this wine highly enough as an alternative to the mainstream varieties that we know and love. 11.9% alc. 95pts – $NA.
Right at the start, let me make one thing clear. The 2022 vintage Farvie reds from Swinney are outstanding. And the wines have been highly lauded, with Brendan Jansen MW going so far as to pronounce the 2022 Farvie Mourvèdre the best wine he had tried in the last twelve months.
Reviewing the wines, however, required the most analysis of any wines that I have tasted in recent times and there was a lot to unpack to get to the heart of these wines. This was because the wines presented in a way that is different to most wines reviewed.
In the end, I tasted the wines over a five day period, with their personalities really developing over that time.
On opening, the wines were extremely refined and elegant, with the extraordinary texture being the feature that underlined the inherent quality. Whilst the shiraz and grenache also showed superb fruit, the mourvèdre in particular was very shy.
One day two, the wines seemed to regress further into their shells, with the textural mouthfeel being the defining character. If anything, the wines were at their least exciting at this point, but provided an excellent counterpoint to a rich lamb ragout.
One day three, the fruit started to come into its own, and the wines started to drink delightfully.
Day four is when it all came together, especially for the mourvèdre. The fruit positively exploded from the glass, all the while supported by the fine tannins and acidity.
Even on day five, the wines were still holding up well, though the structure was starting to break up a bit.
If you are going to drink any of the wines in their youth, then the grenache would be my pick, given its delightful berry fruit. The shiraz is also wonderful drinking, but its best is surely years in the future.
As for the mourvèdre, this is a wine that will handsomely repay time in the cellar. In conclusion, these are some of the best wines to come out of the region, but they are wines that demand your attention to ensure that they give the most pleasure possible.
Reviewed.
Swinney – Farvie – Grenache – 2022. Great colour in the glass and wonderfully pure, pretty grenache fruit on the nose. And on the palate this explodes into life. Yes, it is fine, elegant and structured, but the fruit is an absolute joy to behold. Ripe plum, echoes of liquorice, cinnamon and an almost umami-like savoury goodness add to the enjoyment. The finish is a highlight, as it is silky and finely textured. Counterintuitively, the fruit seemed to recess back into the wine over time and took a full three days to show its best. If you must drink one of the Farvies now, then this is the one that I recommend. 28% whole bunch, wild ferment, 11 months in oak (0% new) 14.0% alc – 96pts – $150.
Swinney – Farvie – Syrah – 2022. The colour in the glass is just amazing and there is sensational red berry fruit. In the mouth, this is very fine, elegant. supple and subtle, yet at the same time this has tremendous impact and wonderful intensity. The length and persistence of flavours is outstanding, as is the purity of the fruit. Gentle spice and amazing texture are supported by the finest of tannins that add silkiness and structure, but do not impede the flow of the fruit in the slightest. Irresistible now, but sure to age for decades if you can keep your hands off it. Remarkably, this had 65% whole bunch in the (wild) ferment. 14 months in oak (0% new) 13.5% alc, 97pts – $150
Swinney – Farvie – Mouvedre – 2022. This is quite a different beast. It is just as fine and elegant as the other Farvies, but here, the fruit takes on a very different tone. Rather than berries or plum, this is much more savoury, with an almost earthy character running the length of the palate. Minerality, chalky tannins and balancing acidity all serve to keep the fruit in check. A fascinating insight into the variety, but also into the way a wine can evolve (for the better) once opened. On days 1 – 3, I much preferred the Syrah and grenache, but on day four, this came into its own, the rich berry fruit positively bursting from the glass. I was stunned by the transformation. 66% whole bunch, 11 months in oak (0% new), 14.1% alc, 95+pts – $150.
I recently reviewed the excellent Cornerstone cabernets and the new release chardonnays are also very impressive indeed.
In this case, the wines come from two contrasting vintages which, if anything, should accentuate the differences between the cooler Karridale region and Wilyabrup which is warmer.
And this played out perfectly in the glass, with the Karridale being full of nervous energy, whilst the Wilyabrup shows more ripe stone fruit notes, despite having the same alcohol.
I recommend getting a few friends together and comparing the two wines. I would be interested to see which wine comes out on top.
Reviewed
Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Wilyabrup – Chardonnay 2022. This has lovely ripe fruit with almond meal notes and texture/viscosity that is most attractive. The palate has depth and is quite seamless, with pineapple-like acidity building and adding drive and persistence. On the finish, the stone fruit builds and is a feature. Barrel ferment (35% new oak), wild yeast, no malolactic fermentation. 12.5% alc – 95pts – RRP $65.
Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Karridale – Chardonnay 2021. There is more nervous energy here. Yes, the fruit is ripe but it is the acidity that defines the palate, in a very good way, adding freshness and vitality and bringing the mouthfeel into focus. A wonderful wine that will be at its best in 3 – 5 years. Barrel ferment (40% new oak), wild yeast, no malolactic fermentation.12.5% alc – 95+pts – $65.
Singlefile-Family Reserve-Chardonnay-2022. What a wonderful wine! This is beautifully balanced, combining the best of both modern and traditional chardonnays, conferring a degree of richness and viscosity to the fruit, whilst maintaining freshness and drive thanks to the beautifully balanced acidity. The end result is an irresistible wine of great quality. Nine months in oak (1/3 news), partial malolactic fermentation. 13.3%alc – 96 pts – $60.
