Grosset 2023 Vintage Rieslings

Barry Weinman: 27_^th September 2023

The tasting panel was uniformly stunned by the breathtaking beauty of the 2023 Grosset rieslings. They are as close to perfection as I could possibly imagine.

The highlight of the tasting was the absolutely stunning Alea. I cannot recall trying a finer off-dry Australian wine.

It was also fascinating to explore the contrasting styles of the three wines, with the intensity of the Springvale contrasting with the ethereal nature of the Polish Hill.

But it does not matter which wine you try, you will not be disappointed.

We tried these wines in a large tasting of premium Australian rieslings and the other standout for me was the stunning quality of the 2022 Bin 51 from Penfolds.

Whilst none of these wines are cheap by Australian riesling standards, they are absolute bargains in the broader context of fine wine.

Reviewed

Grosset – Alea – Riesling – 2023. So very pale in the glass, with just a slight tinge of straw to the otherwise clear liquid. This is both fragrant and perfumed, yet possessing great intensity of fruit. On the palate, musk, lime, talc, perfume and even a hint of bubble-gum all express in what can only be described as a stunning wine. Whilst silky, the phenolics do add texture and mouthfeel. The persistence of this wine must be experienced to be believed, lingering for what felt like minutes. And the residual sugar is perfectly judged making for a brilliant drink. Why wait? 12.5% alc, 97pts.

Grosset- Springvale – Riesling – 2023. OMG. This is so, so beautiful and fragrant, with perfumed musk, talc and incense notes. The palate is intense, reserved, powerful and near seamless. The length and persistence are noteworthy; however this is a touch austere right now and would really benefit from 5 – 10 years in the cellar. With air, the perfumed fruit builds and builds on the palate and is oh-so-pretty and this is supported by impressive minerality. Again, the colour is very pale indeed. A superb wine. 12.9% alc, 96pts.

Grosset – Polish Hill – Riesling – 2023. This is the perfect counterpoint to the Alea. Perfumed and floral, but this is an exercise in restraint. Supple, silky and fine, with gossamer-like acid that shrouds the fruit bu tin no way impedes the expression. Length and persistence are exemplary. What set this apart for me is the fact that this would be equally enjoyable drunk any time over the next 20 years.12.9% alc, 96+pts.

Penfolds – Bin 51 – Riesling – 2022. Lifted, vibrant and pure, with minerality and subtle perfume complementing the zesty citrus notes. The palate has excellent balance supported by gently texturing phenolics and the minerality really makes an impact on the finish. With near seamless palate transition, as well as excellent length and persistence, this really is very good indeed. The next day, this was superb drinking, so give it plenty of air if you are planning on drinking this in its youthful prime. 11.5% alc, 95pts – $50.

Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Riesling – 2022. This is a lovely combination of fleshy fruit and perfumed, almost floral notes. The palate is supple, but there is a core of citrusy acid that defines the finish right now. A very polished wine which is an excellent drink now, but this will be at its best in a decade’s time. 12% alc – 94pts.

September New Release

Barry Weinman: 17^th September 2023

The big surprise in this tasting for the panel was the superb Battles chardonnay. Not a label that we had tried before, but a great wine.

The Hutton chardonnays were a fascinating contrast between the powerful Reserve and the restrained elegance of the Triptych.

I have no idea who Toby Bekkers is, but his wines are very good indeed. Whilst the winery is on to the 2021 Syrah/Grenache, the superb 2017 is still available from selected retailers and it is a brilliant drink. At $100, it is not cheap, but it is a compelling wine.

Reviewed

Hutton – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2020. This is an impactful wine. Complex worked characters from the oak, barrel ferment and lees contact smell expensive, with curry leaf and minerality a feature. In the glass, citrus, white peach and lemon pith all develop. The palate is rich and complex, yet with remarkable restraint and control shown in the balance and mouthfeel, which translate into near seamless palate transition. This is a bigger, more overt style that will appeal to those who like a bigger chardonnay. Natural ferment, barrel ferment and aging in 25% new oak, malolactic fermentation. 13.4% alc. – 94-95pts.

Hutton – Triptych – Chardonnay – 2021. Tighter and tauter than the Reserve, with more subdued fruit. But everything is in place and the fruit is of decent quality. For me, this is all about restraint and poise. Elegant, yet there is a subtle intensity to the fruit which slowly builds in the glass over time. A fine, if understated wine with nectarine. supple worked characters. minerality, fine acidity and excellent length. A saline tang on the close suggests this would be a good pairing with food. Wild yeast, partial malolactic fermentation, barrel ferment and 8 months in oak (33% new). 13.5% alc. – 94-95pts.

Battles – Chardonnay- 2022. The name is new to me, but the panel were full of praise for winemaker Lance Parkins. And I like this a lot. This is a wine where the sum of its parts is greater than the individual components. Quality, if restrained fruit and slick winemaking, but the impact is impressive. Texturing minerality and subtle stone fruit is supported by taut, yet fine acidity and texturing (yet invisible) oak. Superb drinking. Natural ferment and malolactic fermentation, 9 months on lees, 13% alc. – 95pts – $50. (Sold out at the winery, but still available in the trade).

Bekkers – Syrah/Grenache – 2017. Inky, dense and powerful, with chocolatey overtones supported by a chewy, textured mouthfeel. Plush, silky and intense, with great length and persistence. This just keeps lingering. An amazing wine, but not for the faint hearted. A traditional Aussie red, with firm tannins that keep the balance. 14.5% – 95pts – $100.

Singlefile New Releases – Spring 2023

11^th September 2024

Since day one, I have been a huge fan of Singlefile. The combination of high-quality wines, beautiful packaging and sensible pricing has been quite irresistible.

And it seems that I am not the only one who thinks so. Looking at the winery’s website, the majority of the wines are sold out. I can think of no better praise indeed.

The best way to access these wines is via the mailing list.

The current releases are as good as ever. My picks for quality and value are the delicious grenache, along with the “Old School” Chardonnay.

They are well worth seeking out.

Reviewed.

Singlefile – The Vivienne – Chardonnay – 2020. A spectacular wine that is the epitome of restraint and poise. In addition to white peach, this has pretty floral and tropical fruit notes. Straight out of the bottle, the high-quality fruit on the palate was subdued by the tight-knit oak, but with air (and especially the next day) this transformed with the fruit asserting its authority with aplomb. Really needs 5 years in the bottle to hit its straps or give it an hour in a decanter to bring it to life. 12.6% alc. – 95+pts – $100.

Singlefile – Old School – Chardonnay – 2022. An “old school” wine by name, but this is a superb example of a middle-of-the-road chardonnay that is bursting with character. The fruit is everything in this wine, but thanks to skilful winemaking, the texture and mouthfeel are the defining features. This has a viscosity and silkiness in the mouth that is quite captivating. There is great length and persistence on the palate with grapefruit-like citrus characters building on the finish. This may be quite cellar-worthy, but my tip is to enjoy it in its youthful prime. And be sure to try it with food. Wild ferment in new Burgundian oak, 13.6% alc., 96pts – $79.

Singlefile – Clement V – 2022. Dense, rich powerful and very good, with sweet ripe fruit to the fore, and gentle chocolatey notes building. Whilst clearly cooler climate, this is a generous style and all the better for it. Long, supple and delicious, with subtle clove notes and a refreshing touch of amaro-like astringency. Whilst age-worthy, this would be a brilliant BBQ wine this spring. A smashing drink. 14% alc. – 94pts – $37

Singlefile – Grenache – 2022. The fruit is pretty and perfumed and possesses great intensity. Not quite pinot, but definitely medium-bodied in weight. The palate is lithe, fresh, supple, long and gently textured. A complete wine that is already good to go but will cellar comfortably for a decade or more. If every you needed an argument to show that Frankland is perfectly suited to grenache, then this is the wine to use. 95pts – $40.

Singlefile – Small Batch Series – Pinot Noir – 2021. An irresistible combination of fragrant, pretty pinot fruit and plush, generously textured mouthfeel. Cherry? Yep, with satsuma plum acidity adding depth and drive. The oak adds subtle toasted notes and adds depth and texture. From a single barrel, this is a wine that needs no accompaniment, but is versatile enough to accomplish a variety of foods. 14.2% alc. 94pts – $59.

Cherubino Chardonnays: 2022 Vintage Reviewed

Barry Weinman: 14th August 2023

I am honestly amazed at the quality that Larry Cherubino maintains across his range, given the vast number of wines he makes under his own labels, not to mention the consultant winemaking that he offers.

A great example of both the quality and the array of wines on offer is the chardonnays made in 2022. There are no less than six chardonnays under the various Cherubino labels, in addition to those in the other ranges such as Pedestal and Ad Hoc.

With the exception of the On The Fringe Chardonnay which eschews new oak in favour of maturation in large format foudre and concrete egg, there are similarities in winemaking techniques across the range. So the differences that are seen between the wines in many ways reflects the variations in the various vineyards/sub-sites.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Margaret River – Chardonnay – 2022. Finer and more elegant than most, but no less impactful. Gorgeous fruit is front and centre. The oak, tannins and acid add depth and texture, but they are, for all intent and purposes, invisible. The viscous, textured mouthfeel is noteworthy. A brilliant wine now, but should open up further over the next five years. 60% new oak, partial (10%) malolactic fermentation, 13.1% alc. The pinnacle of the range, utilising the best parcels of fruit from across Margaret River. 96pts.

Cherubino – Pemberton – Chardonnay – 2022. A beautiful wine, that has intense peach aromas with layers of tropical fruit coming in over the top. This is dense and powerful, yet retains balance and charm. There is great length and persistence on a palate that is near seamless. A delightful wine that can be consumed with joy any time over the next five to seven years. Dijon clone, 13.1% alc, 96pts.

Cherubino – Gingin – Chardonnay – 2022. From the Willows Vineyard in Wilyabrup, this feels a little more immature in the mouth, with the acid and oak more noticeable and the mouthfeel a bit leaner. There is still excellent fruit quality but it comes across as quite restrained initially. Yet this retains a degree of approachability that makes for an excellent drink, particularly with food. Think poached chicken breast or spinach and ricotta ravioli. But with air, this really opens up, showing intense, powerful fruit supported by gentle astringency. Impressive 13.7% alc – 95pts.

Cherubino – On The Fringe – Chardonnay – 2022. There is a purity of fruit here that is quite special, no doubt aided by the use of large format foudre in combination with concrete eggs for maturation. The palate is elegant, lithe and supple, yet also intense, textured and deep at the same time. So, so good, but give it a few years to hit its straps. Fruit comes from a mature vineyard in Pemberton. 12.6% alc – 96pts.

Cherubino – Dijon – Chardonnay 2022. From the Wychwood Vineyard in Karridale, this is a very different expression of Margaret River chardonnay, but it is in no way less worthwhile. The fruit is just a little more subdued and closed right now, with the citrus acidity and flinty minerality more notable than the fruit right now. Everything is in place and this offers excellent drinkability, but its true potential will only be revealed at some point in the future. 12.9% alc – 95pts.

Cherubino – Caves Road – Chardonnay – 2022. Another excellent wine, but here everything is accessible from the outset and there is excellent balance. Whilst there is less (30%) new oak in this compared to some of the others in the range, it does add impact. I would drink this whilst waiting for the others to really hit their straps. Dijon Clones 95 and 96, 12.9% alc – 94pts.

10th August 2023

If you put a cross-section of wines in front of a group of wine drinkers, there will invariably be differing views on the relative merits of each wine. And my observation is that the more experienced the drinker/taster/aficionado, then the more divergent the opinions become.

A great example of this is the wine groups on social media. Often, someone will post about how good a wine was, only for another contributor to counter with a completely different view.

The following wines stood out in recent panel tastings for the fact that they were universally praised by all tasters.

They also stood out for me for their quality/price ratio. Not cheap, but not expensive when compared to many of the benchmark wines in their styles.

Reviewed

Millbrook – Single Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2020 . This has a bit of wow factor to it. Powerful, complex and intense, with peach, and mealy cashew notes. The palate is structured and deeply textured, yet this remains supple with near seamless palate transition. The acidity kicks in on the finish and drives the length of flavours, which linger for some time. A bigger style, with expressive oak, this was uniformly appreciated by the panel. 95pts – $35.

The winery is on to the 2021 vintage, but the 2020 is still available in the trade.

Fraser Gallop – Parterre – Chardonnay – 2021. This is a superb wine. Intense, powerful and deep, with great depth of flavours supported by citrus-like acidity. Stonefruit and grapefruit notes build in the glass, with flint and a hint of curry leaf minerality adding to the appeal. The length and persistence of flavours are a standout. Don’t be fooled by the lighter colour; this is a sublime wine that would be perfect with miso infused salmon. 95pts – $60.

Tim Adams – Aberfeldy – Shiraz – 2018. This is intense, powerful and impactful, with great depth of flavours to the inky fruit. Despite being tannic, structured and closed, this somehow, manages to be approachable at the same time, with ripe plum to the fore. The amazing old vine fruit has soaked up the new American and French oak with aplomb. This took 3 days to fully open up and the resulting wine was superb.

The Aberfeldy vineyard was a part of the original Wendouree vineyards and was planted in 1904. Many of the original vines are still in production. At $65, this is excellent value for a wine of this pedigree and quality. 95-96pts – $65.

July 2023 New Releases

Wine Reviews by Barry Weinman: 6^th August 2023

Over the course of several tastings, these wines stood out for their quality and relative value. The Hazeldene chardonnay and the Vasse Felix cabernet in particular were standouts.

Reviewed

Oakridge – Hazeldene – Vineyard Series – Chardonnay – 2021. This is quite lovely. Ripe, yet restrained peach-like stone fruit expresses on both the nose and palate. There is tremendous length and depth of flavours, and the finish is balanced, polishedand rounded. Gentle lemony acid and subtle worked notes add to the appeal. A superb wine indeed. 95pts – $45.

Oakridge – Hazeldene – Vineyard Series – Pinot Noir – 2021. Pretty red cherry fruit to the fore, but there is a savoury, almost sappy undertone that gives this energy and balance. The texture is a highlight, with gently grippy tannins and oak providing the perfect counterfoil to the fruit. Ready to go now, but will cellar comfortably for 5 – 7 years. 94pts – $45.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Black currant and red berries burst from the glass on both the nose and palate. Yet this is very supple, refined and long, with high quality texturing oak (33% new) providing the frame on which the fruit is hung. Subtle mint and polished tannins add to the package. This is a complete wine that is full of joy. A superb wine that is excellent value given its inherent quality. Cabernet sauvignon 85%, malbec 13%, with a splash of merlot and petit verdot rounding out the blend. 95-96pts – $55.

Coldstream Hills – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. This is a lovely wine that combines elegant, refined blueberry fruit with silky, yet texturing tannins and supple oak. There is plenty of intensity sitting behind the elegant facade, yet this remains supple and approachable straight out of the bottle. Now – 20 years, or anytime in between.  94-95pts – $60.

Barry Weinman: 30^th July 2023

With changing fashion and the ever growing availability of new and unusual wines, it is easy to overlook some of the wine styles that made Australian wine famous and provided decades of pleasure to the wine drinking public.

At a time when Grenache is all the rage, this tasting was an excellent reminder of just how good Barossa Shiraz is, and how good value it can also be.

The Grant Burge and St Hallett brands are now owned by Accolade and there is great value to be had, especially when the get discounted around the traps. The Filsell in particular is something of a bargain.

Reviewed

St Hallett – Butcher’s Cart – Shiraz – 2019. This is rich, ripe and fragrant, with berry and plum fruit supported by gentle spice. The palate is actually quite taut and closed, but there is lovely plum and savoury notes that open up with a swirl of the glass.. This is ripe, but the fruit is beautifully controlled, with the acidity and tannins framing the fruit well. Excellent now, but also in 10 years. 93pts – $27.

Grant Burge – Filsell – Shiraz – 2018. This is a much more savoury/earthy expression, with the fruit supported by coffee notes from the quality oak. Closed and restrained, yet there is impressive density here. The finish is structured and firm, yet the palate transition is near seamless, such is the quality of the tannins and acid. A lovely wine that could be enjoyed young, but would be best in 10 – 15 years. 95pts – $40.

St Hallett – Blackwell – Shiraz – 2018. Pristine ripe fruit up front, leading to a savoury and acid-driven finish, with texturing minerality. Rich, dense and concentrated without being heavy or cloying. Have it with food if you are going to drink it young, or give this 10 years and it should really start to open up. 94pts – $50.

New Release Barossa: Welland and More

Barry Weinman: 9th July 2023

It is no secret that the Barossa Valley makes brilliant shiraz, and, in this tasting, several wines shone for their quality and relative value.

But the highlight of the tasting was the sheer quality of the Barossa cabernets from Welland. Wines that, whilst stylistically different to Margaret River, remained classically cabernet. Elegant and poised, but with a touch more generosity to the fruit than the average cool-climate wine.

The 2021 Welland Old Hands Cabernet was the star of the tasting. At $70 ex-winery, it is also very good value for a premium wine.

Reviewed.

Welland – Old Hands – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2021. This is taut and structured, but there is a lovely core of ripe fruit which floods a palate that is long, supple and delicious. With air, the blueberry fruit and spice notes meld seamlessly with the texturing oak and tannins. A superb wine with excellent concentration and a degree of gravitas which elevates it above the ordinary. 95+pts – $70.

Welland – Valley & Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Whilst this has fine fruit that is both intense and concentrated, it is made in a style which is very approachable at this early stage. With air, pretty blueberry/mulberry fruit floods the palate, with decent length and persistence on the finish rounding out an excellent wine. Not as serious as the Old Hands, making for a pretty and enjoyable wine. 93pts.

Welland – Valley & Valley – Shiraz – 2022 . The fruit here is a little more vibrant and forward, with the juicy berry characters the main focus. The palate is flooded with fleshy fruit, with enough acid and tannins to keep things fresh and balanced, but not so much as to impede the fruit in any way. An excellent drink now – 5 years. 93pts.

Recent Release Whites: June 2023

Barry Weinman: 1^st July 2023

Here are some of the highlights that came across the tasting bench this month. When it comes to Chardonnay, we are spoiled for choice. And then there is riesling…

A couple of these wines have been reviewed before, but such is the quality, I thought it worth revisiting them.

Reviewed

Tapanappa – Tiers Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2021. This has a bit of wow going on. Intense and powerful, with the lees, barrel and malo characters building in waves over the ripe stone fruit. The intensity on the palate is a feature, with the acid and secondary characters from the oak initially driving the finish. The phenolics do hold this back a little now, so give it time. But with air, this comes into its own. 95+pts.

Stella Bella – Luminosa – Chardonnay – 2020. A fine, restrained style, where the pristine fruit has been pared back and expertly matched to fine oak and subtle winemaking influences. This has everything, but does need time to open and reach its peak. With air, nectarine peach notes build, supported by cinnamon and clove spice from the supple oak. An excellent cooler climate chardonnay. 95pts.

Flametree – SRS – Chardonnay – 2021. Opens with fine fruit, but the finish comes across a touch closed right now. But with air, this really opens and builds. Long, complex, fine and elegant, with gentle viscosity and a drying finish. Needs time for acidity to come back a notch, but this is the complete package. 95pts.

Deep Woods – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2021. Intense, powerful fruit on the nose, supported by minerality/curry leaf and superb winemaking influences (barrel ferment, lees work, partial malo). On the palate, this gets even better. Here, the pristine fruit (white peach) is the key focus on entry, and continues the entire length of the palate. The grapefruit acidity adds life and structure, but does not impede the fruit flow in the slightest. A great wine. 96pts.

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Chardonnay – 2019. I have reviewed this before, but given the sheer quality this showed in the line-up, I thought it worth another mention. The depth here is unbelievable. This is a wine where the sum of the parts is much greater than any individual component. The way the fruit envelops and coats the mouth and lingers on the finish is brilliant. No descriptors required, this is a great wine. 97pts.

Cullen – Kevin John – Chardonnay – 2021. Like the Leeuwin, this was so good that it warrants a second review. There is intense fruit that reminds me of just ripe nectarines, supported by supple, expensive French oak and brilliant winemaking additions (Lees and barrel ferment work +/- partial malo). Superb length and persistence of flavours. The whole package is supported by fine acidity. Very age-worthy. 96pts.

Castle Rock – Riesling – 2022. This is superb straight from the get go. The fruit has almost tropical hints, with passionfruit and a touch of floral lantana. The palate is seamless and very fine. The acid is lively and acts as a counterfoil to the textured mouthfeel, thus conferring freshness and life. A delicious wine, that feels very dry and finishes with a hint of saline tang. 94-95pts.

Frankland Estate – Isolation Ridge – Riesling – 2021. A different style, with a touch of gentle sweetness to plump up the mouthfeel and balance the acidity. There is a touch more phenolics here too, delivering complexity and texture. This is at once approachable, but there is a serious side that will make its presence felt in years to come as this develops. Great length and persistence of flavours. Superb. 96pts.

Duke’s – Single Vineyard – Riesling – 2022. This is very taut and steely, with fine acidity that floods the finish. But this is full of potential, with plenty of life and energy to the pristine fruit. Don’t serve it too cold now, but preferably give this 10 years to open up. 95pts.

Pooley – Cooinda Vale Vineyard – Riesling – 2022. Oh wow, this is the complete deal. The superb fruit has floral and citrus characters that floods the nose and the palate, with the fine acidity acting as a lubricant, allowing the flavours and textures to flow seamlessly across the palate. A beautiful wine that will live for years and years. Feels just off-dry and is all the better for it (RS = 5.36gm/l). 12% alc, 96pts – $70.

Pooley – Butcher’s Hill Vineyard – Riesling – 2022. This is a much more reserved style where the textural components are the key characteristic now. But there is great depth and power to the fruit and the finish is very long indeed. A superb wine that is a 15 year proposition, yet the excellent line and length makes this a great drink now. Lovely wine. RS 2gm/l, 13.2% alc, 95+pts – $70.

Xanadu 2023 Premium Releases.

Barry Weinman: 22^nd June 2023

There is no better way for me to assess the quality of a wine than to taste it in a masked line-up of some of Australia’s best wines of the same variety.

So it was with the new premium release cabernets and chardonnays from Xanadu under the Reserve and Stevens Road labels.

In both line-ups, the wines starred, pointing highly in both cases.

What was interesting was that there were no perceptible quality differences between the two ranges. The styles, however, were different, reflecting the differences in terroir between the sites.

Given that the Stevens Road wines can be bought for under $90, this makes them particularly good value. (The Reserve wines at $120 also represent decent value.

Reviewed

Xanadu – Stevens Road – Chardonnay – 2021. This is a slightly different take on Margaret River chardonnay. There is pristine fruit (nectarine and grapefruit) and supple winemaking that serves to add texture, but does not impede the fruit in any way. This is, however, a tight wine that is quite shy right now. But in time (5 – 10 years), everything is in place for this wine to blossom. Sensitively made in a very modern style. 95pts – $90.

Xanadu – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2021. This is such a complete wine and quite beautiful. The fruit is intense and powerful, yet fine and elegant with lovely poise and balance. Supple stonefruit, gentle citrus and wonderful texture from the lees and barrel work are supported by grapefruit-like acidity that adds life and freshness. A superb drink now with air, and also cellar worthy. 96pts – $120.

Xanadu – Stevens Road – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Classic cabernet, with cooler region fruit of the highest quality. This is quite powerful, with the Houghton clone fruit holding its own with the firm tannins and oak. An excellent dry red that, whilst approachable, has a very long future ahead. 96pts – $90.

Xanadu – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. The fruit for this comes from the Lagan & Boodjidup vineyards adjacent to the winery. This is another special wine, but it is very young and only just starting to emerge from its winemaking cloak. With air, both red and black fruits emerge, with hints of savoury chocolate and high-quality oak that has been superbly integrated into the fruit. This is really very good indeed. 96pts – $120.