A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy

27 October 2010

The wines of Barolo get their name from the village of Barolo, around which the DOCG appellation is located, in the Piedmontese province of Cuneo in the Langhe hills. The wine is made from the Nebbiolo variety, which is an early budder but late ripener, thriving best in calcerous soil. Therefore, in cool North West Italy, sites which have the greatest sun exposure, by virtue of slope orientation, and the requisite soil type, provide the best conditions for Nebbiolo to thrive. Though a tannic variety, the skins of Nebbiolo are not so much thick as tough, accounting in part for the sometimes lighter colour of Barolo wines.

Barolo was “invented” in the 19th Century by a French winemaker, Louis Oudart, at the invitation of the Count of Cavour – prior to this, wines from the area were sweet rather than dry. In what would become tradition, wines were macerated and fermented for several weeks, thus explaining the extraction of tannic components, and then aged in large oak or chestnut butts for up to 3 years and more. The result was a wine best left to age in the bottle, to be drunk after a period of 10 years at least.

The oft referred to “Barolo Wars” of the 1970’s and 80’s refer to the development of the more widespread use of shorter maceration and fermentation times, the employment of aging in small French oak barriques, and longer bottle aging at the expense of time in oak. This led to a more approachable, “modern” style of Barolo, with the innovators at loggerheads with the so-called “traditionalists”.

The current situation has evolved so that, usually, some kind of middle ground is adopted by most producers. This is epitomised by the producer we visited in the Cannubi vineyard, smack bang in the commune of Barolo, considered to be one of the prime sites for production of quality Barolo. (Attempts to classify vineyards by quality into vineyards considered “cru” have as yet not been granted official sanction.)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno have been making Barolo for more than three generations. We were guided through our tasting by Danillo Boffa, who has married into the Borgogno family. Over the course of the tasting, Danillo espoused the virtues of the site, describing themselves as custodians of a great gift. As with many Old World winemakers, the importance of terroir, and in particular the terrabianca (white clacerous/clay) soil, and orientation of the slope of the vineyards, were seen as key. He also spoke about the importance of “tradition”, seeing it as an essential ingredient in the creation of any wine. In our brief discussion about Australian wines, he commented that it would be difficult to make great wine in any country without a “tradition” of winemaking.

Should I at this point talk about the history of Australian wine dating back to before Barolo was “invented”? To Sir James Busby? And the many greater than 100 year-old vines to be found in Australia? The many different “terroirs” that we, too, were discovering? The many passionate winemakers all over Australia, who marry the numerous Australian-led innovations in wine science to a respect for the art of winemaking? I thought better of it – perhaps another time….

In reality, the “tradition” that Danillo spoke about placed emphasis on the use of old large butts (bote) and no small French oak barrels. On this point, this producer is indeed “traditional”. However, in terms of maceration and fermentation times, temperature controlled fermentation, yeast innocula, – the list goes on – the producer has adopted some the more enlightened “modern” methods.

Though most of its 60,000 bottle production is derived from grapes grown in its own vineyards, the Dolcetto D’Alba, Barbera D’Alba and Barbaresco are made from grapes sourced from trusted growers in Fossati (a few kilometres south), Castellinaldo (in Monferrato) and San Rocco Senio d’Elvio, (a few kilometers northeast, close to Alba) respectively.

On to the wines (note: prices are ex-cellar):

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Dolcetto D’Alba DOC – 2009 (15.5). Suffering somewhat from having spent a little too much time opened, the cherry fruit core was still evident. 15.5 pts (5 Euro)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Barbera D’Alba DOC – 2007 (16.5). Classed as “Superiore” for having spent 24 months in large boti (butts), this wine was understated yet showed great structure, a lovely medium weight palate with soft cherry/berry fruit. 16.5 pts (6.50 Euro)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Nebbiolo D’Alba DOC – 2005 (17.5). Light coloured, with the classic “tar and violets” signature of Nebbiolo, with perfumed fruit poking through its chewy tannins. A fantastic wine! 17.5 pts (7.20 Euro)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Barbaresco DOCG – 2007 (18). This wine had spent 2 years in large wooden butts, and showed mint, herb and spicey notes, even a whiff of scorched almonds, with chewy plum and berry fruit, and wonderful length, encased in mouth puckering tannins. 18 pts (14 euro)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Barolo Cannubi DOCG – 2006 (18). Opened earlier that morning, this wine was the quintessence of young Barolo – tight, with firm tannins and tarry notes, with a hint of prunes poking through. 18 pts (18 Euro)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Barolo Cannubi DOCG – 2005 (18). Showing a little more development than its younger sibling, more spice, truffle and tobacco notes. 18 pts (18 Euro)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Barolo Riserva DOCG 2004 (18). Spending a whopping 5 years in large butts, this showed even more development with anise, cinnamon, tar, truffles and smoky notes. 18 pts (19 Euro)

As can be seen by my points, this was a tasting of superlative quality. I cannot wait for my order to arrive! Interestingly, there were some back vintages on sale also, including Baroli from 1999, 2001, and, yes it is not a misprint, 1971!

After the winery visit, we popped in to the little town of Barolo. Once an impoverished part of Italy, the town has been transformed into a wine tourist’s paradise. Nowhere in Italy have I seen such a collection of trendy wine bars and tasting rooms. A visit to the old Barolo castle ended the day. Now refurbished largely using private money, the castle is now the home of an ambitious wine museum. Part art installation, part interactive exhibit, it has a comprehensive section on the history of wine, with special focus on the history of Barolo wine. (17.5 pts, 12 Euro entry fee!)

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

A Boot-full of wine – Tasting notes from Italy

Excellent Current Releases

Reviewed

Altesino – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18). Cherries but also blackberries, leather and chocolate. Persistent and balanced. 18 pts. 44 Euro

Banfi – Brunello – Poggio All’Oro– DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18.5). An early whiff of sulphur which soon blew off. A baby – long, tannic, tangy acid, complex. 18.5 pts. 84 Euro

Cupano – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG – 2004 (17.75). The nose was a bit muted but the palate sang, with fresh dark red fruit and a savoury undertow. 17.75 pts. 84 Euro

Pacenti Franco-Canalicchio – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18.25). Acid, tannins, fruit in fine balance. Complex and long. 18.25 pts 47 Euro

Piancorello – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18.5). Incredible depth to the fruit with blackberry and raspberry, violets, and spicy anise. 18.5 pts. 46 Euro

Il Poggione – Brunello di Montalcino – I Paganelli – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18.7). Complex with excellent persistence of aromas and flavours. Hints of chocolate and leather. 18.7 pts 59 Euro (For the record, the Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2008 is a cracker – providing the essence of Sangiovese unsullied by oak – 18 pts, 14 Euro)

Poggio di Sotto – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (19). Almost indescribable – wonderful length and complexity – and one would expect so at this price. 19 pts. 130 Euro

Tenuta di Sesta – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (17.75). Again began a touch sulphurous, but later a solid example of Brunello, suffering somewhat for having been tasted after the Poggio di Sotto. 17.75 pts. 44 Euro

I should add that my favourite Brunello producer, Uccelliera, was not represented at this tasting.

As can be seen, there is a range of prices for Brunello, but these producers represent excellent quality and hence value for money.

Ciao again!!

Brendan Jansen

A Boot – Full of Wine

Tasting Notes From Italy

by

Dr Brendan Jansen

Carmignano

I will devote this column to the small appellation of Carmignano. Carmignano is the Tuscan appellation closest to where we are living in Prato. This is a small appellation and it had to fight for its inclusion in the DOCG scheme of things. The fight was won in 1975. Before that, Carmignano was subsumed under the Chianti Montalbano region.

The wines in the Carmignano area had a reputation for depth and longevity dating back 7 centuries (at that time, 100% Sangiovese). Carmignano is unique in that its wines are now a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon. The French varietals have been used in Carmignano blends long before the advent of the so-called “Super Tuscans” (which probably began with Tignanello, of the Antinori stable, in 1971).

Legend has it that, as the power of the ruling Medici Dukes was waning in the late 17th Century, they married into the French royal family. The French naturally brought their own grape varieties along with them to Italy – these have now been shown to be Cabernet Franc in the main, and Cabernet Sauvignon – and planted them alongside Sangiovese in the Tuscan countryside, most especially around the Carmignano area.

The power that the Medici family wielded, and the length of time they were in power, is truly amazing. The Tuscan countryside around Florence is dotted with large Medici villas, some of which have been restored to reflect their former glory.

Every year there is a festival of Carmignano wine in Prato – I Vini Profumi – The Perfumed Wines, and naturally I attended. Most of the 20 odd producers of the Carmignano district exhibited their wines, with a separate guided tasting by an Italian Association of Sommeliers representative. I include my tasting notes on the pick of the bunch. You will see that Cabernet Franc has given way to Cabernet Sauvignon, and its old stable-mate Merlot, in the wines below.

Two final words. Firstly, just like in the coastal region of Bolgheri (home of Sassicaia and Ornellaia), some of Carmignano’s Bordeaux blends are gaining a better reputation in the international wine media than their Sangiovese-Cabernet counterparts. Whether this relates to greater palate familiarity I am unsure.

Finally, in the Carmignano region, most producers produce a Barco Reale. This is usually their basic ‘house’ wine. (Barco Reale literally means the wall or fence around the Medici property.) Whilst at one time these wines were generally un-oaked, these days most spend about 6 months in oak. I find these wines amongst the best bargains in Tuscany. In Italy, unlike Australia, wine is considerably cheaper when bought directly from the cantina or winery. The grape blends used in Barco Reale are similar to other wines from Carmignano, and I have picked up Barco Reale bargains for as little as 5 Euros. When the weather starts to cool, these wines will be my quaffers. I am unsure if you can track any down in Australia, and what they might cost, but if you see a bottle, it might be worth a try – for curiosity’s sake!

On to the tasting…

Colline San Biagio – Carmignano – DOCG – 2005 (16). This is a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. Oak dominated this wine, whose fruit was a touch muted. There was good tannic structure and adequate acidity.

Mauro Vannucci – ‘Il Sasso’ – IGT – 2006 (16). This is an IGT wine but with the same varieties and proportions of the DOCG above – they are from different producers I should stress. This was a big wine. Toasty bacon (probably an oak influence) with slight vegetal characters (from Cabernet?) led to a somewhat hot finish (Its label says it is only 13% alcohol).

Villa Medicea – Carmignano – Riserva – DOCG – 2004 (17.25). Made from 75% Sangiovese, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Canaiolo, this wine displayed the classical perfumed nose, with stewed dark fruit on the palate, a nice mouth-feel with good supporting acid and tannins.

Pratesi – Carmignano – Riserva – DOCG 2006 (17.5). Another big wine but in which all elements are well balanced. It a 70%/20%/10% mix of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Had some savoury elements within its ample fruit flavours, which I enjoyed.

Tenuta Pierazzuoli – Le Farnete – Carmignano – DOCG – 2005 (18). The 20% cabernet sauvignon component was immediately discernible by the presence of cassis and herbal notes on the nose, but on the palate the sangiovese dominated with cherries and plums. There was a touch of elegance to the wine.

Ambra – Carmignano – Riserva – Elzana – DOCG 2004 (18.25). This blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet was most impressive for its length, not to mention its structure and elegance. A thoroughly well made wine with dark fruit elements in perfect balance with oak, tannins and acid. Will age well for 7+ years.

A Boot-Full of Wine – Tasting Notes from Italy

By Dr Brendan Jansen

18 October 2009: This week’s article is on Chianti Classico. The name refers to a largish zone in Tuscany, within which, if certain standards are met, a wine may be given the same name. The main grape in Chianti Classico is Sangiovese (70-100%), but other varieties such as Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nera (up to 10%) are also used. Small amounts of other varieties such as Cabernet, Merlot, and even Shiraz may be added (up to 20% only), but since 2006, no white grape varieties are permitted in Chianti Classico.

Chianti Classico is but one subregion in Chianti; the others being Chianti Colli Sinesi, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Rufina, Chianti Montalbano, Chianti Montespertoli, Chianti Colli Aretini, Chianti Colline Pisane. (“Colli” means “hills”, so Chianti Colli Sinesi refers to Chianti made around the hills of Sienna, for example.)

The Chianti Classico region lies between Florence and Sienna, with about a 50/50 split between the 2 provinces. You may be familiar with the black cockerel found on the certification tag on every Chianti Classico bottle’s neck. Legend has it that to settle one of many disputes between Florence and Sienna, a horse race was organised. Both kingdoms had to select their fastest horse and a skilled horseman. At the crack of dawn, as the cock crows, both were to leave their respective cities and ride as fast as they could along a predetermined route. Where they met would be deemed to be the boundary between the two great powers.

The story goes that the Florentines semi starved their (black) cockerel, so that it crew much earlier than that of the Siennese. The emblem of the black cockerel has persisted ever since!

A few words about how a wine is classified to be a Chianti Classico. The area within the region is about 80,000 acres, of which about one quarter is under vine. There are maximum yields permitted (7.5 tons/hectare) and minimum requirements for aging (10 months, at least 7 of which is in oak). Vineyards must be at least 4 years old and dry-grown. Not all wine meeting these minimum standards is bottled as a Chianti Classico – the producer can call it a Chianti Classico Riserva if it is aged for 27 months before release, and has a higher alcohol content (12.5% instead of 12% in the case of Chianti Classico). Other producers might choose to label a wine as an IGT wine, especially if they think the style of the wine is not in keeping with a Chianti Classico. Such wines may have a denser and more tannic structure for example.

Having said that, there are as many types of Chianti Classici as there are producers. The classic description is, however, of a medium bodied wine, with medium tannins, medium/high acidity and core fruit flavours of cherries (and perhaps raspberries). In this incarnation, Chianti Classico partners many foods extremely well. Chianti Classici of greater structure and density, especially the Riservas, have the potential to age for up to 10 years.

Living here in Tuscany for the past 5 months I have, of course, been exposed to many a Chianti Classico. Rather than describe tasting notes for all, I will list below the ones which have caught my eye, in 2 categories – the first a more “classic” Classico style, and the second, a denser, more highly extracted style. I hope at least some of these can be found in Australia!

Recommended Chianti Classici “classic”

• Castellare docg 2007 (18 pts)
• Castell’invilla docg riserva (18.25 pts)
• Fontodi docg 2006 (17.5)Isole e Olena docg 2007 (17.75)
• Ormanni docg 2004 riserva (18)
• Poggerino docg 2007 (16.5)
• Castello dei Rampolla docg 2006 (17)
• Riecine docg 2007 (17.75)
• Fattoria di Rodano docg 2004 riserva (18.5)
• Vecchie Terre di Monefili docg 2006 (18)

Recommended Chianti Classici “fuller bodied”

• Dievole docg 2005 (17.5)
• Fonterutoli docg 2007 (17.5)

Until next time, ciao!!

A Boot-full of Wine – Tasting Notes from Italy

Dr Brendan Jansen

30 December 2009

It was a mild autumn day as my companion and I drove to Montacino from Florence. As we approached the hills around Montalcino, Mauro, my friend, remarked that the heavy fog which surrounded the low hills would not be present when we reached the top of the hill upon which Montalcino lies.

He was right. We reached the summit of this medieval town, replete with its own fortress, 500 metres above sea level, to a clear vista. The peaks of the neighbouring hills looked like boats, bobbing on a vast cloudy ocean. We picked up Laura, our host, from Il Palazzone (about which I have already written) and made the short trip to Uccelliera, about ten kilometres away, and at an altitude of about 350 metres.

Andrea Cortonesi made time to see us despite having much on his plate that day. He met us with muddy boots and calloused hands. He began talking about his philosophy of wine and winemaking. He spent time developing his ideas from his time working at two local wineries – Ciacci Piccolomini and Mastroianni.

He explained that, when he had bought the land in the mid 1980s, he had chosen sites with various aspects and various altitudes. These sites also come with different soils, and therefore, different expressions of the Sangiovese Grosso grape. His vineyards lie between 150 and 350 metres above sea level, and some face south, others east and still others west.

This means that every year, he is able to make a Brunello, possibly different no doubt to the previous year, but nonetheless of outstanding quality, even if the weather was challenging because of heat or rainfall variations.

Andrea then took us on a tour of the cellar, where we tasted from barrels, the 2008, 2007 and 2006 vintages. He showed us about four different barrel samples from each vintage, highlighting the effects of terroir and oak – some wines had spent a year in French barriques, others two and still others had remained in the older Slavonian oak bote or large barrels. What began as a winery visit had turned into a Brunello masterclass!

He then offered us to taste the 2005 and 2001 vintages. Both were stunning, with the 2001 superior and benefitting from the effects of bottle aging.

As Andrea talked, he became more animated; his eyes lit up. Brunello is clearly a passion for him, and he truly qualifies as an artisan. One of the most impressive aspects of the man is his superlative palate – an enormous asset given the importance of the assemblage.

My pick of the tasting was the sample earmarked as a Riserva from one of the 2006 large bote. It was a wine of immense power and structure yet still displaying finesse and elegance. Fruit, acid and tannins are in perfect balance, displaying both complexity and persistence. I for one will search it out upon release.

Until next time, ciao!

Brendan Jansen

A Boot-full of Wine – Tasting notes from Italy

Il Palazzone

A Scotswoman in Montalcino!

30th December 2009

What is a Scotswoman doing in Montalcino, and one that has been there for 15 years at that? Well may you ask. Laura Gray, however, is no ordinary Scot. With both her parents having hailed from the world of academia, she had spent time growing up in places as antipodean as Australia, and Italy was a common destination for the family. Indeed by the time she was in her later school years, summer visits to Camigliano were the norm.

Laura confessed that she always knew she would return to Montalcino to live – or at least that was her dream. She is living the reality!

Our meeting occurred under amazing circumstances – I am living in Tuscany and had a couple of my articles accepted for publication by Snooth. She read one of these and invited me to Il Palazzone (and helped arrange a meeting with Andrea Cortonesi at Uccelliera – the subject of a subsequent article) and so I gladly took up the invitation with a friend from my tasting group.

Il Palazzone is a small winery in the heart of Montalcino, that produces the highest quality Brunello, in the traditional style. Total annual production is between 8000 and 12000 bottles. Brunello is the only DOCG wine they produce – there is no Rosso di Montalcino. The vineyards are over 500m above sea level, with a smaller holding at a lower altitude, and responsible viticulture is their catch cry. No chemical pesticides are used, and hand pruning is employed as the norm.

Laura is married to Marco Sassetti,
 and they have two young children, and live on the property. Marco hails from S.Angelo in Colle, just around the corner from Montalcino. He is the general manager of the property and is responsible for the vineyard and olive grove management, the cellar construction and the logistics of the property. Marco is a down to earth and salt of the earth sort of guy, with a passion for all things natural. He and Laura created and ran a cult restaurant, La Fortezza del Brunello (6 tables and 600 wines….) but gave up their restaurant business to work for Il Palazzone, in 2003.

Laura herself is a trained sommelier and has a degree in English Literature from the University of Oxford. She is the estate manager, responsible for sales, marketing, finances and administration. We had the opportunity to walk around the vineyard and sample the Brunellos. The vineyards just a short walk away from the heart of the town. Large Slavonian oak barrels are used (as was the tradition in Montalcino) and the winemaker is none other than Paolo Vagaggini. The results are stunning.

It is clear that Laura, her husband and all at Il Palazzone behave as though they are curators of a valuable asset. They have just made their second production of IGP Toscano oil (9 kg of yield per 100 kg of olives this year!) They are in their second year of the Club 100 tree sponsorship project. The future plans include honey, fig and chestnut use and preserves from the fruit trees from the property, keen to put all resources to their maximum use…

But now on to the wines: As a teaser, we tried their Vino di Tavola – a non-vintage or rather multi vintage that Il Palazzone release in lieu of a DOCG Rosso. To call this a quaffer would be to do it an injustice. A Brunello in everything other than name, this is probably the best value for money red I have tasted in my eight months in Italy.

We then sampled the 1995 Brunello – it should be noted that this wine was made before the current owner acquired the property. One can understand the attraction, and why Il Palazzone was later purchased. This was a wine singing in its older age. It displayed a lovely balance of savoury and fruit characters, with the added complexity afforded by aged characters in the wine. There remained an austerity to the wine, stamping its integrity as a top notch Brunello.

The current release was the 2004 – and we tried this next. Though difficult to compare to the older wine, there was great linearity to this wine – with clear evidence of quality fruit and expert winemaking. Cherry, berry and plums danced with ripe, silky and refined tannins. Acidity was high, but in perfect balance with other elements, finishing with impressive persistence.

Over lunch, our hosts opened the 1998 Riserva. Wow! Cherry and spice, with fruit, acid and tannins in harmonious evolution, and perfectly matched with the delicious rustic fare so simply yet expertly prepared by our hosts. All in all, a fantastic day, and an impressive array of wines.

I am looking forward to keeping in touch with Laura, and visiting Il Palazzone again.

Until next time, ciao!

Brendan Jansen

A Boot-full of Wine – Tasting notes from Italy

Pugnitello

30 December 2009

Does the name Pugnitello mean anything to You?

I would be surprised if it did. It is the name of an indigenous or autoctonous grape variety from here in Tuscany, Italy. In ancient times, the Etruscans were the inhabitants of this area, before they were overrun by the Romans a couple of centuries BC. They were early cultivars of the vine – though they usually let the vines climb along trees in trails the vines set themselves.

In recent years, scientists, winemakers and vignerons have been concerned by the attrition of grape vine varieties – in what they call the “genetic erosion” of Vitis vinifera – due to, among other reasons, the phylloxera blight and selection of specific varieties to the exclusion of others.

In response to this, the University of Florence in conjunction with San Felice winery and vineyard sought to rediscover and cultivate autoctonous (indigenous) vines. In what has been a mammoth project, an attempt has been made to grow all the existing vines in Tuscany. These have been verified genetically as distinct varieties, and in all, about 230 were grafted on rootstocks and cultivated. Of these, only about 30 bore grapes suitable for wine (by a process called “micro-vinification”, simply meaning small quantities of wine were produced from each plant).

Early results showed that Pugnitello worked well, and is one of the most advanced of the varieties. Being a new variety, oenologists are still learning about its qualities and characteristics, and which winemaking techniques best suit it. I was invited to join a vertical tasting of Pugnitello at the San Felice winery where we tasted all vintages made – 2003, 2004, 2006 and 2007 (none was made in 2005).

Before I go to my tasting notes, two brief points. The wines showed increasing finesse, structure and austerity as the vintages have progressed. This probably represents greater familiarity with the variety than issues of vine age. Secondly, the wines displayed excellent acidity levels even with full phenolic ripeness. If climate change were to proceed to produce warmer vintages, the presence of varieties such as Pugnitello bodes well.

(All wines are San Felice – Pugnitello, all aged in French oak barriques)

San Felice – Pugnitello 2003 (17pts). Dried prunes, plums and blackcurrant on the nose and through to the bittersweet palate. Some savoury earthy characters. Oak still in evidence, with good acid and still needing time to integrate. Alc 12.77%

San Felice – Pugnitello – 2004 (17.5pts). Stewed but not overripe fruit, with more spicy tones of anise in particular. Good complexity with softer, more integrated tannins and good acid levels again. Alc 13.5%

San Felice – Pugnitello – 2006 (18.25pts). My pick of the tasting. Cherries and plums with some clove on the nose and savoury notes on the palate. Tannins were ripe but discrete. Oak is in no way overwhelmed. Excellent persistence. Alc 12.8%

San Felice – Pugnitello – 2007 Black fruits again but with distinctively more floral notes. Oak more evident with sweet ripe tannins and high acidity again. Lovely mouthfeel and not “hot” despite alcohol level. Alc 14% 17.5

Until next time, ciao!

Brendan Jansen

Editor’s Note: At a time when Australian red wines are often exceeding 15%, a red wine with 14% alcohol seems quite tame really.

The wines of Mt Etna in Sicily

One of the joys of the last few months here in Italy has been to try new grape varieties from local areas, hitherto not known to me. A case in point has been the discovery of the wines from Etna in Sicily, made predominantly from the Nerello Mascalese grape. Nerello Cappuccio is a close relative and is sometimes blended in smaller quantities, but Nerello Mascalese is the varietal with real class.

An autochthonous* grape variety, and almost forgotten till found and nurtured by a group of dedicated individuals, most vines are pre phylloxera entities on their own rootstocks, some over 100 years old. Grown mainly as bush-vines, each plant yields only a small amount of grapes (yields about 30hl/ha). Though the grape is named after the nearby town of Mascali, it is most likely that it was imported through the town’s port rather than having originated there.

The northern slopes are where most of the wines of quality originate, and the area is designated as a DOC zone. The combination of jet-black volcanic soils and altitude (most vines are between 500 and 1000m up) produce wines of incredible depth and complexity. Usually no new oak is used, and only occasionally are small barriques used.

Others have described the red wines produced from Nerello Mascalese as having the structure of a Barolo and the elegance of a Burgundy. I can see that the comparisons are apt. The wines I have tasted have been medium bodied, quite tannic, but silkily so, with flavours of dried/black cherry and blackcurrant. Tobacco and spice are evident, but most impressive is an earthiness matched with a silkiness – quite a combination! It can have an ethereal quality like the best pinot noir, especially when allowed to breathe. The wines have an impressive backbone of acidity and age well. They can have high-ish alcohol levels of 13.5 – 14% but there is no impression of hotness whatsoever.

Below are the ones I have tried. I recommend you seek out a Nerello Mascalese, and if you find one, I think it is well worth a try!

Pietro Caciorgna – Etna Rosso DOC – N’Anticchia – 2006.

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere – Etna Rosso DOC – Guardiola – Sicily – 2005.

Passopisciaro – IGT Sicilia – 2006.

Vini Biondi – Etna Rosso DOC – Outis – 2006.

A boot-full of wine

Nebbiolo is a grape variety that has begun to have New World manifestations, but it is really the noble variety of Piedmont (even though much more Dolcetto and Barbera is grown there). Very smart examples indeed are also made in the Valtellina region north of Milan, but Piedmont is its spiritual home.

Nebbiolo is a late ripening variety, and has, surprisingly, thin, though very tough, skin. It grows best in calcerous rather than sandy soils. Its first two or so buds are infertile, so it is not a candidate for spur pruning – cane pruning (and thus hand harvesting) is the rule.

In Piedmont, its two most famous incarnations are the wines from Barolo, and those from Barbaresco. Both are 100% Nebbiolo wines. Other DOC regions also produce nebbiolo based wines, not least of which are the Boca and Gattinara regions. (As an aside, Piedmont is a place that does not subscribe to blending of varieties. Thus, from Barbera to Gavi, Barolo to Dolcetto, you will almost always find wine made from a single variety.)

Barolo wines were traditionally fermented in contact with its skins for up to 2 months, thus explaining the extraction of tannins and colour in old Baroli. Aging used to occur in large oak or chestnut butts, but amongst modernists, this has given way to French oak. In fact, winemaking in Barolo has moved to making the wines more approachable earlier than the traditional 10-year minimum of the past. Skin contact is nowadays often limited to about the average of 2 ½ weeks, and aging in oak often occurs for the minimal time allowed by law (the law requires 3 years aging, 2 of which must be in oak).

“Tar and violets”, chocolate, prunes, tobacco, truffles and autumn smoke are the common descriptors for Nebbiolo in general and Barolo in particular.

Barbaresco hails from a drier, warmer area than Barolo, at altitudes about 200-350m above sea level. Regulations allow for only 1 or 2 years aging in oak, and again there are traditionalists and modernists. Generally speaking Barbaresco is a little softer and approachable when younger than Barolo, though with the essences of violets, lush fruit, assertive acid and tannins still in evidence.

I am heading off to Piedmont next week, but here are a few great examples of Nebbiolo from a recent tasting (I am unsure about their availability in Australia, but if you track down any of them, it may be worth acquiring a few bottles):

Reviewed

Burlotto – Barolo – DOCG – 2006 – “Monvigliero” (18.5). A lighter colour but a powerful structured wine, with lots of leather and mushroom notes. Yum! (40 Euro)

Clerico – Barolo – DOCG – 2006 – “Ciabot Mentin Ginestra” (17.75). A traditional style Barolo, this is powerful but young and tannic, and needs time – much more time! (71 Euro)

Grimaldi Bruna – Barolo – “Badarina” – DOCG – 2006 – “Vigneto Regnola” (17.5). “Simpler” in the sense that primary fruit flavours dominate with a crisp clean palate without too many secondary flavours. 30 Euro

Grasso Elio – Barolo – DOCG – “Gavarini Chiniera” – 2006 (18.75). Rich and unctuous, a quintessential Barolo with tar, rose petals, truffles, and firm tannins. Stupendous! (61 Euro)

Grasso Elio – Barolo – DOCG – “Ginestra Casa Mate” – 2006 (18.5). Like a more feminine version of the above, with poise and finesse. (61 Euro)

Massolino Vigna Rionda – Barolo – DOCG – 2004 – Riserva – “Vigna Rionda” (18.8). The best Barolo in the line up. Dark and brooding, softened by its age but with many a year in front of it. Rich red fruit, herbs and smokiness. (73 Euro)

Massolino Vigna Rionda – Barolo – DOCG – “Margheria” – 2006 – (17.75). Again lighter in colour, but with a firm tannic structure, high acid, complex yet clean with wonderful palate line and length (to borrow a cricket analogy). (52 Euro)

Nada Fiorenzo – Barbaresco – DOCG – 2006 – “Rombone” (18.5). Softer and rounder but unmistakably Nebbiolo. Again, has the fine structure afforded by firm tannins and fruit to give it longevity – if you can keep your hands off it!! (44 Euro)

Travaglini Gattinara – DOCG – Riserva – 2004 (18). I thought this wine was fantastic, and very Barolo-esque, but, perhaps owing to its less well-known appellation, at half the price! (31 Euro)

A final note on the vintages mentioned – 2006 was very good, 2004 outstanding!

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen