The current releases from Sittella continue to reinforce their reputation for delivering high-quality wines at very affordable prices. And as the range has expanded, so too has the versatility that the wines provide.
For example, the 2024 Avant-Garde Chardonnay makes for excellent early drinking, whilst the Reserve is age-worthy and demanding of patience.
And the same is true for the Arsenal and Berns Reserve Cabernets. The latter really needs cellaring while the former is already a great drink.
Speaking of great drinks, the new Malbec is an absolute blast, packed full of juicy fruit.
REVIEWS
Sittella Reserve Chardonnay 2024 On first impression, this was quite reserved and shy, only hinting at potential. With air though, the ripe peach-like fruit is slowly coaxed from the glass. After 15 minutes, this really started to shine, the fruit opening and evolving, while the creamy texture on the finish proved a real highlight. The oak is fine and texturing, and while nicely integrated, is palpable on the palate at this early stage. And the wine was much better drinking on day two. 13% alc. Drink: 2028-2034 | 95 points | $40
Sittella Avant-Garde Chardonnay 2024 If I had to use one word for this wine, it would be “polished”. The fruit is quite superb, with layers of stone fruit building on both the nose and palate. And the palate is near seamless, with only a touch of textural grip building on the very close, putting a ripple through the finish. But this is merely a factor of youth, and in time, the texture will settle back and allow the fruit to speak more clearly. The flavours and textural components linger on the finish for more than a minute, gaining a touch of honey on the close. A captivating wine of great appeal. 13.0% alc. Drink: Now-2030 | 95 points | $33
Sittella Avant-Garde Malbec 2024 This wine is all about the fruit. Vibrant, lively and downright delicious, the use of some whole bunch fermentation no doubt helping to preserve the berry characters. There is an explosion of berry characters on the palate, though this is supported by a touch of tar, leather and spice. Brambly fruit also comes to mind. On the finish, the fine tannins really build (in a positive way), ensuring that the lively fruit is balanced on the close. These tannins will also help it pair nicely with hearty winter fare, providing the cut through for richer dishes. With air, the structure of this wine became more pronounced, highlighting a serious aspect to the wine. Worth trying. Drink: Now-2030 | 94 points | $50
Sittella Berns Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 Oh my, this is good, with the wine taking on a slightly cooler character. There is an ethereal nature to the brambly fruit, though at this early stage, the fine though prodigious tannins make their presence felt on the finish. That said, the fruit then builds on the finish, almost magically coating the tongue from back to front, and continues to linger for an age. A lovely wine that will reward cellaring for a decade or more. A belter of a wine. 14.5% alc. Drink: 2030-2040 | 95 points
Sittella The Arsenal Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec/Cabernet Franc 2023 This is an impressive wine. Fine fruit, polished winemaking and supple oak come together in a more accessible style than the Berns Reserve. This is a case of less being more as, despite not being the most powerful or biggest wine in the tasting, it has presence and, importantly, excellent drinkability. Given its sheer drinkability, this is one of those wines that is likely to be drunk young, therefore missing the best that it has to offer if you can be patient. 14.5% alc. Drink: Now-2038 | 95 points | $39
We were recently on the road in the Great Southern to meet with some of the key producers in the region, with a focus on Denmark and Porongurup.
First up was Forest Hill, who surely must be one of the unsung heroes of the Western Australian wine industry. The quality of the wines produced, particularly under the “Block” range, is superb and tremendously underpriced in the global context.
Three drivers of their success are:
Unique, mature vineyards in Mt Barker, the oldest dating back to the mid-70s
High-quality winemaking led by the very capable Liam Carmody
Over-delivering on value
While there are excellent wines throughout the range, for me, this is where the most interest lies.
Few will be surprised to hear that the 2025 Rieslings are superstars. But there is little awareness of just how good the Block 5 Cabernet is, given that it still sells for $80 and is in top form. This has won the Halliday Cabernet Challenge twice in recent vintages.
The consistency of the wines across the range was the highlight. Be it the Block 8 Chardonnay or the Block 9 Shiraz. And while it does not carry the “Block” name, the Cabernet Malbec in the Heritage range is a brilliant drink.
Finally, watch out for microscopic quantities of an experimental Block 1 Riesling. Yet to be named, this was a tiny batch of fruit that was made into a Germanic style, with residual sugar in the Kabinett range (30-35g/L). Only 18 dozen were produced!
REVIEWS*
* Please note that the wines were not tasted blind, so the points are indicative.
Forest Hill Riesling 2025 A blend of vineyards, including a small proportion of Frankland fruit, due to the low yields this vintage. Lovely floral and apple blossom fruit, with a core of steely minerality. Fruit perfectly ripe. Viscous, steely, textured. Excellent length and persistence. 93+ points | $30
Forest Hill Riesling Block 2 2025 More phenolics here, and much more intensity. Intense lime juice, hints of toast and even a touch of struck match minerality. Compared to the Block 1, this is moving to a more Germanic style; the hint of residual sugar adds texture and drinkability, without adding any overt sweetness. The acid is the hero here, seamlessly driving the palate without adding any aggressiveness. A textural wine that is superb drinking now on its own, or with food, but is likely to age well in the medium term. Drink: Now-2030 | 96 points | $40
Forest Hill Riesling Block 1 2025 2025 was a more typical year, though harvest was 2-3 weeks earlier than usual. Across the board, grapes were picked in optimal conditions and have resulted in a wine that is stunningly pure. This is very fresh: lime, jasmine and so much more. The palate is so long and powerful, with a refreshing ocean-spray saline tang that rips across the palate. The fruit was picked at perfect ripeness, riper than is typical for Australian Riesling, which adds texture and mouthfeel from the subtle phenolics without sacrificing precision. From the original plantings. 97 points | $TBC
Forest Hill Riesling Block 1 2024 A warmer, earlier vintage has resulted in more intense, powerful fruit and increased phenolic interplay. This is quite different to the 2025. The aromatics are down while the texture and power are palpable on the palate. While the style is a little atypical, this is a very powerful, age-worthy wine. Only 80 dozen made. A bargain. 96 points | $55
Forest Hill Block 8 Chardonnay 2024 This is a powerful, intense style of wine, with great depth of aromas and flavours. The nose leads with worked characters such as curry leaf, minerals, flint and struck match from the barrel and lees work, with ripe peach and nectarine characters building in the glass and on the palate. The almond meal nuttiness is a feature, as is the texture and mouthfeel. Fantastic drinking now, but this should open up in 2-3 years and look even better. A Burgundian style. Fruit comes from the top 14 rows of the vineyard planted in 1995, was hand-picked over three runs and was barrel fermented on solids in French oak (20% new). 95 points | $60
Forest Hill Block 9 Shiraz 2023 Pristine, precise and poised, this is definitely in the northern Rhône style, with spice weaved through the taut berry fruit. Anise, fennel and spice build on the finish that is seamless, beautifully textured and supported by graphite-like tannins. A superstar from an excellent vintage. Block 9 was planted in 1985 and has 1.6 hectares under vine. The fruit was harvested in multiple passes, with individual parcels vinified separately. 20% whole bunch fermentation included and the wine was aged in older 600L barrels. 95 points
Forest Hill Cabernet Malbec 2023 Wow. The blueberry fruit is just spectacular. So fresh and pretty, with remarkably fine tannins and oak in perfect balance with the fruit. The fruit quality is just superb. Medium-bodied, with a touch of savoury bay leaf and hints of violet. Incredible length and persistence. A superb drink now, or any time over the next 10-15 years. The Cabernet comes from Block 7, 1975 plantings of Houghton clone. 35% Malbec from 20-year-old vines, and sees almost no new oak. 180 cases produced. 96 points
Forest Hill Block 5 Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 Stunning wine. So intense and powerful, yet seamless and silky in the same breath. The fruit takes on darker tones compared to the Cabernet Malbec, with a brambly, almost earthy component sitting behind the blackberry fruit. With air, the pretty fruit really builds, gaining depth and intensity. On the very close, the textural grippy components also build, adding important textural components. 25% new 300L French oak barrels. Best rows of the block are used in this wine, particularly those from the crest of the ridge on the vineyard. 250 cases made. 97 points | $80
The most important release in the Australian wine calendar each year is the Penfolds Collection. This includes all premium “Bin” reds from the Bin 28 and whites from Bin 51 Riesling upwards.
And I was extremely fortunate to be able to sit down with the legendary Peter Gago to taste through the range and get Peter’s unique insights into the making of the wines.
Whilst wines like Grange and Bin 707 rightly garner great attention, it is the sheer breadth of high-quality wines that is most remarkable.
And this is not limited to just Australian wines, it also encompasses France and the USA, with wines from China under development.
And whilst the red wines are what made Penfolds famous, the quality of the whites is right up there, and on a bang-for-your-buck basis, significantly over-deliver.
From a value perspective, If I had to pick one red wine and one white wine to cellar, the St Henri and Reserve Bin 24A would be my picks. Fortunately, I do not have to limit my selection to just two wines :).
Penfolds Collection 2025 – The Whites
The 2025 Bin 51 is as good, if not better than any wine preciously released under this label, but for me, the greatest value lies with the Reserve Bin 24A. A superb wine and a bargain in the context of the range.
Reviewed
Penfolds – Bin 51 – Riesling – 2025. A beautiful purity of fruit here. Lime/citrus notes abound, but there is so much depth of fruit behind this. That purity continues on a palate, which is fine, elegant and supple. The acid balance is a highlight, the finish remarkably seamless for a wine that is just at the start of its journey. Minerality, hints of toast, mouth-filling texture all contribute. A superb effort. 2025 was a drier than average vintage in the Eden Valley, resulting in exceptional quality, but reduced volumes. 10.5% alc, 96pts.
Penfolds – Bin 311 – Chardonnay – 2024. This was really quite reserved and shy on the nose; however the quality really expressed on the palate. Creamy, peach-like fruit floods the mouth, supported by gently toasted oak that provides the backbone on which the fruit is built. Remarkably, this is seamless and fine despite the oak (18% new, 8 months) and acidity, and has excellent line and length. Similar fruit sources to Yattarna (Tumbarumba, Tasmania, Adelaide). Excellent line and length. Supple. Lacks the ultimate depth of its big brothers, but is a remarkable drink already. 13% alc, 94pts.
Penfolds – Reserve Bin A – Chardonnay – 2024. The increase in depth and power compared to Bin 311 is quite stunning. Doughnut, peach and nectarine characters abound. The oak (50% new) has been completely subsumed into the wine, adding a textural framework, and allowing the fruit to be the primary focus. And how good is that fruit? Quite stunning. This is already superb drinking today, but will gain greatly with time in the cellar. A powerhouse of a wine which is uncompromising in its quality. Counter-intuitively, the longer this sat in the glass, the finer it showed, with the texture greatly adding to the package. My pick of the whites this release. Fruit sourced from the Adelaide hills. In the winery, this had regular battonage and underwent 100% malolactic fermentation. 12.5% alc – 96pts.
Penfolds – Yattarna – Chardonnay 2023 The contrast between this and the Reserve Bin A is stark. Whereas the former was all about overt power, the Yattarna is focused on elegance and poise. Not delicate, but restrained and shy, needing time to slowly uncoil and show its colours. And when it does, you will be rewarded by a spectacular wine of great purity and depth. The aromas and flavours evolve and build over time, throwing up images of stonefruit, citrus (orange blossom) and subtle spice. The oak (60% new) is invisible for all intent and purpose, but is a key component of the wine. After two hours sitting in the glass, the power was on full show. Nougat notes adding complexity to the fruit flavours. Fruit comes from Tumbarumba, Adelaide Hills and Tasmania. Only Grange and Bin 707 sit above this wine in the current Australian Penfolds lineup. 12.5% alc – 97pts.
Penfolds Collection 2025 – The Bin Wines
When I started collecting wine as an 18-year-old, Penfolds Bin 28 formed the foundation of my cellar, supported by Bin 128 and, when funds permitted (or there were sales) Bin 389.
Bin 407 had only recently been added to the range, and presented another alternative, one that, if anything, was even better early drinking. And judging by what is left in my cellar, was the one that I drank in preference at the time.
Over time, the Bin range has expanded, but 28, 128 and 389 still form the foundation. What has changed though is the pecking order of the wines in the range.
Bin 28 (along with 138 and recently Bin 21) are the starting point, with Bin 128 now elevated in price sitting on its own, between Bin 28 and Bin 150. Meanwhile, Bin 407 has been further elevated, sitting alongside Bin 389 in the range.
Regardless of where you look however, the quality and consistency of the wines is unchanged. Bin 128 is, for example, not a better wine than Bin 28 per se, but it is a single region wine, and has a degree of exclusivity about it.
Reviewed
Penfolds – Bin 23 – Pinot Noir – 2024. Looks like pinot, smells like pinot, tastes like pinot. The berry fruit is a highlight, combined with some supple whole-bunch stalkiness that adds freshness and structure. This is much less about Penfolds, and more about high quality pinot that has been expertly handled in the winery. Supple, silky and generously textured, this is a lovely drink now. Primarily matured in French oak barriques, but a small proportion (8%) of the wine was aged in amphora. 13.5% alc, 94pts.
Penfolds – Bin 21 – Grenache – 2024. The colour is a step up from the pinot, but this is still translucent compared to the other Bin wines. This wine highlights the prettiness of grenache: Perfumed, but with more structure and depth than some. But it is the wine’s presence in the mouth that makes this a highlight. There is serious depth behind the fruit and the winemaking has allowed the fruit to shine, avoiding any artifact. That said, there is enough structure to ensure that this is a serious wine, but of all the wines, this (along with the Bin 23) is the wine that I would choose to drink now. Fruit comes from Barossa and McLaren Vale, and was matured in a combination of French and American oak of which only a small portion was new. 14.5% alc 94+pts.
Penfolds – Bin 138 – Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre – 2023. The components for this wine were vinified separately, which is the opposite of the usual Penfolds approach. This is a much more structured wine than the Grenache, but there is still a degree of approachability that is disarming, making for a wonderful drink today. The fruit takes on more plum-like tones, with savoury notes and oak adding depth. Excellent drinking now with food, or give it 10 years in the cellar to let it start to hit its peak. 14.5% alc – 95pts.
Penfolds – Bin 128 – Shiraz – 2023. This is a remarkable wine, as this is not about Penfolds, it is about classical cool climate shiraz of very high quality. The fruit is clearly cooler, more elegant, fine and restrained, with hints of mint and spice reinforcing the cooler-climate theme. The palate is supple and silky, but this is the first of the wines that really needs aging to hit its straps. 10 years in the cellar will help, but 20 years may be even more beneficial. The most elegant of Penfolds wines. Aged in French oak, 26% new. 14.5% alc – 95pts.
Penfolds – Bin 150 – Marananga – Shiraz – 2023. This is a step up in every way. Ripe fruit, that takes on an almost chocolate-like hue. There is a density to the wine that is quite remarkable, given that this is tending towards medium bodied (as far as Barossa shiraz goes). But it is the texture, length and persistence on the palate that sets this apart. The silky oak is a highlight, and is a combination of French and American, with about 25% being new. Ultimately, the graphite-like tannins shut things down, ensuring that the wine will have a very long future, but if combined with a hearty dish like lamb shanks would be a treat now. A wonderful wine that could be drunk anytime over the next 20 years. 14.5% alc, 95pts.
Penfolds – Bin 407 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This is quite profound, yet I struggled to come up with any meaningful descriptors, as the fruit is quite shy at this early stage, especially when combined with the silky winemaking. There is an amazing presence that left me sitting for minutes pondering the depths of this wine. Patience is required, but this will be a lovely wine in time. Aged in French and American oak Hogsheads for 12 months, the fruit coming from Padthaway, Coonawarra, McLaren Vale, Barossa and Wrattonbully. 14.5% alc – 96pts.
Penfolds – Bin 389 – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – 2023. I have always loved 389, and this is no different in that regard. But what has been fascinating to see over my lifetime is how the style has become ever more refined, without losing its personality. This is refined, elegant and supple, with ever-so-fine tannins and oak. The fruit quality is exemplary, but it is rather reserved and shy. But it is the mouthfeel and texture that sets this wine apart. With air, the blueberry fruit builds and builds along with hints of clove and spice. Fruit comes from McLaren Vale, Padthaway and Barossa, and spent 12 months in American oak hogsheads (33% new). 14.5% alc – 96pts.
Penfolds Collection 2025: St Henri to Grange and more
Penfolds – St Henri – Shiraz – 2022. This is a spectacular wine. Dense, powerful, intense and rich, yet remarkably, also balanced, silky, supple and quite brilliant. I can’t come up with enough superlatives to describe the wine (Yes, it is that good). Ultimately, the tannins really build on the finish, ensuring a 30+ year life ahead. As always, the wine sees no new oak. The fruit comes from Barossa, McLaren Vale and Padthaway and in 2022 included 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. A great vintage for St Henri. 14.5% alc – 97pts.
Penfolds – Magill Estate – Shiraz – 2023. My first sniff of this wine produced an “oh wow” moment. The fruit is perfectly ripe, seductive and succulent, but with great depth sitting behind the supple exterior. There is depth, power, a silky texture and great intensity. On the very close, the tannins are prolific, but also extraordinarily fine. Whilst it may benefit a couple of decades of cellaring, this is a remarkable wine as the purity of fruit is something to behold. Aged in a combination of French and American oak (1/3 new). The Magill vineyards are currently undergoing a rejuvenation project, with new plantings now coming on stream. A national treasure. 14.5% alc – 97pts.
Penfolds – RWT Bin 798 – Shiraz – 2023. I love this wine. The dense fruit has plum, chocolate and coffee notes and is succulent, supple and slurpable. And then… on the finish, it starts to show its true colours. Structured, dense, textured and very powerful. The finish is amazing, as is the fruit quality. A remarkable wine such is the density and power. The contrast between the St Henri, Magill and RWT is fascinating. The RWT is the finest, most sophisticated of the three. On first impression, the forward nature of the fruit of the other two grabbed attention. But this wine sat quietly and confidently in a different style and stamped its authority once it had time to open in the glass. From the Barossa, the fruit spent 14 months in French oak (69% new).14.5% alc, 96-97pts.
Penfolds – Bin 707 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. Wow, wow, WOW. This is just spectacular. Depth, silky, power, texture. Blueberry, pristine fruit, subtle power, intensity. But it is the mouthfeel and texture that sets this apart. A wonderful wine that is both silky and infused with innate power. An amazing, remarkable wine. With an hour in the glass, the tension between the fruit and structure was, if anything, more pronounced. The nervous energy palpable. Yet still, it remained silky and fine despite the formidable power. The fruit (McLaren Vale, Padthaway and Barossa) was aged for 18 months in new American oak hogsheads. 97pts +
Penfolds – Grange – Shiraz – 2021. Oh so Grange. And oh so good. What a wine. Power, intensity, depth. Here the fruit is firmly in the plum spectrum, whilst the oak is invisible for all intent and purpose. This is a wine that is supple, subtle, intense, powerful, fine, elegant and seamless all at the same time. Evocative, this is the essence of fine wine. Mint, pepper and spice all unfold over time. The fruit moves to blueberry. The length of flavours and textures are something to behold. Beautiful. The inclusion of 8% Clare Valley fruit makes an impact. It is hard to move on from this wine. One of the world’s truly great wines. After sitting in the glass for more than an hour, the innate power was much more evident, with layers of chocolate, coffee and spice unfurling over time. Yet the fruit powered on. Spectacular, age-worthy, Penfolds!
In 2021 the grapes came from Barossa, McLaren and Clare and included 6% Cabernet and was aged for 18 months in new American oak hogsheads. 14.5% alc – 98pts.
Penfolds Collection 2025 – The best of the rest of the world.
The Penfolds juggernaut shows no signs of slowing down, with an ever-increasing array of wines being produced from France, the USA and China. Some of these wines are still in the developmental stage, as Penfolds works to refine the wines to meet the quality and style requirements to achieve the “Bin” designation. The French (FWT) and Chinese (CWT) wines fit into this category.
The American wines are more evolved and carry the “Bin” designation and, in the case of Quantum, a premium title.
And the reviewed wines are uniformly superb.
Reviewed
Penfolds – Bin 600 – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – 2022. How to describe this wine? Density and power, more so than the Australian wines. But that is not better per se, it is just different. There is a ripeness and plushness that is quite seductive. The wine is spine-tinglingly good and already amazing drinking already, yet there is the structure and texture, that will reward cellaring. A remarkable contrast to the 389. The fruit sweetness is clearly American, but the wine is classically Penfolds. Drink while waiting for the Bin 389 to mature. Heritage vine cuttings from Kalimna and Magill were used to plant the Creston Ranch vineyard in California. 14.5% alc – 95pts.
Penfolds – Bin 149 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Much more structured and focused. With power and intensity to burn. The tannins are remarkably polished and fine. And the depth takes a step up. A highlight. This wine is a fascinating blend of fruit from California and South Australia and spent 16 month in a combination of new and used French and American oak. 14.5% alc – 96-97 pts.
Penfolds – Quantum Bin 98 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2021. Immensely powerful and structured, yet fine and elegant. This could be mistaken for Bordeaux, such is the restrained, textured palate. With air, the powerful blueberry fruit is such a highlight. The length and persistence of flavours and texture are extraordinary, and the way the fruit evolves over time is quite stunning. Five minutes after tasting this wine, I was still getting pops of flavours and texture that kept me entranced. So intense and powerful. and it just gets better and better with air. A worthy companion to Grange. Different style, same quality. Includes the addition of 7% shiraz from South Australia and the wine was matured in a mix of new and used American and French oak. 14.5% alc – 98pts.
Penfolds – FWT 585 – Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot/Merlot – 2022. Oh my. This is quite beautiful. It somehow manages to capture both the essence of Penfolds and also of Bordeaux at the same time. The fruit is ripe, as expected, but the minerality and structure is what sets this apart. It is not so much the density of fruit, rather it is the density of texture that has the greatest impact. Blueberry, but also graphite-like notes. Whilst near seamless, the tannins ultimately close things down, suggesting that 10 years in the bottle is required for this to start to hit its straps. 35% New French/ 18% new American oak barriques. 14.5% alc – 95pts.
Here is a round up of some of the better wines reviewed in the last month that did not make it into other tasting notes.
A highlight for me was the 3drops pinot. Brilliant drinking and good value.
And the panel was very impressed with the overall quality of the wines from Fermoy Estate. The Reserve label wines were the standout.
Reviewed
Flametree – Shiraz – 2023. There is more structure here, yet there are still layers of ripe fruit within this. I love the fact that this is immediately enjoyable, with the fruit and structural components presenting harmoniously. Whilst this will be a great drink on its own, the structure makes for an excellent pairing with lamb shanks or a ratatouille, where the tannins and acid will help cut through the richness of the food. 14% alc, 93pts.
Fermoy Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. On the first whiff, a most impressive wine. Seamless, fine, elegant, this is a masterpiece of winemaking, taking high quality fruit and massaging it into a complete wine. The ripe fruit is a feature. Polished, texturing tannins really add to the package. Classical cabernet and already excellent drinking with some time in a decanter. 14.0% – 94pts.
Fermoy Estate – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Whilst this showed well straight out of the bottle, it was more the texture and structure that impressed rather than the fruit per se. But over the next two days, the red and black fruits really started to shine, absorbing the oak and tannins into a seamless, harmonious package. The fruit is cooler in character, reflecting the vintage, but is perfectly ripe within this context. From Wilyabrup. 14.0% alc – 95+pts.
Fermoy Estate – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. A very fine wine, with taut acidity complementing the pristine stone fruit characters. There is a purity to the fruit that is most attractive, with the barrel and lees work really pared back, allowing the fruit to shine. This is a wine that could happily be drunk on its own or with the delicious whiting at Lamonts. 13.0% alc – 95pts.
Domaine Naturalist – Artus – Chardonnay – 2023. Here, the winemaking components have been turned up a notch, but fortunately, there is the fruit power and quality to carry this with aplomb. The long, savoury, almost saline finish rounds out a powerhouse chardonnay. Worth trying if you get the chance, as this is a very good wine, but some may find the style a little much. 13% alc – 94pts.
Rowe – Single Site – Chardonnay. 2024. Wow. This is a lovely start to the chardonnay tasting. Pristine, ripe peach fruit leads to fresh/invigorating acidity that drives the palate. Oak adds texture and complexity, and although a touch obvious right now, will settle back into the fruit with 6 – 12 months in bottle. Impressive fruit quality. Give it a couple of years for the acid to soften. Vanilla tones to the oak were appreciated as was the rich, gently creamy mouthfeel. From Karridale, Gingin Clone, 30% new oak. 13.0% alc – 94pts.
Ferngrove – The Stirlings – Ellen Peak – Chardonnay – 2023. This is very smart indeed. Here, there is a touch more astringency, with the nutty texture a key feature of the wine. Excellent fruit, the stone fruit characters are laden with supple minerality, with hints of curry leaf drifting in and out of focus. The texture is a highlight, balancing creamy characters with more textural, slightly astringent notes which add life and balance. The oak is super fine and perfectly paired with the fruit. This represents fine drinking regardless. …great fruit, great length. Single Vineyard 200 cases, whole bunch, 35% new oak. 12.5% alc – 94+pts – $65.00
Domaine Naturalist – Purus – Chardonnay – 2023. Super fine, super elegant, super restrained, super wine. This is a reserved, restrained rendition of chardonnay which, despite its reticence, is striking for the way the acidity and fruit meld into a seamless palate transition. Delicate? Yes, and delightful. Such a contrast to the Artus and, ultimately, my preference. 12.4% alc, 95pts – $65.
Castle Rock – Pinot Noir – 2024. This wine may be the entry-level pinot in the Castle Rock range, but it is also a cracking drink, combining very good fruit and polished winemaking. Red fruits (strawberry and cherry), supple tannins, silky oak and focused acidity combine to make this a very compelling package. Quite serious, the winemaking inputs really add. Spent ten months in French oak (26% new) and included 13% whole bunch in the ferment. From the Porongorups. 13.8% – 93pts – $46.
3drops – Pinot Noir – 2023. This is a cracking wine. The depth of flavours here is the standout feature, with the fruit unfolding in layers along the length of the palate. Seamless, supple and slurpable, the texture is quite superb, with the tannins and acid cosseting the fruit in a blanket of goodness. A wonderful wine with great purity of fruit that has an intense cherry-like core. Fruit comes from the Patterson Vineyard. The wine was made by Rob Diletti and spent 10 months in Oak (24% new). At $40, this is something of a bargain. Put some in your mouth and be happy. 14.0% – 95pts – $40.
With the first vineyard being planted in 1982, Lenton Brae has long been part of the Margaret River wine scene. Part of the interest for me related to the fact that founder Bruce Tomlinson did not stick to the script for Margaret River, with pinot blanc being one of the key varieties planted, along with a dedicated focus on making age-worthy sauvignon blanc-based wines.
In later years, the venture experienced some turbulent times, with ownership ultimately transitioning to the Jackson family in 2020.
Judging by recent tastings, Lenton Brae is back in fine form under the watch of Vanessa Carson (winemaker) and Russel Cocker (viticulturalist).
The premium wines (under the Wilyabrup label) are very fine indeed. The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon is a stately, if somewhat reserved example of what Margaret River does best. This is a very fine and age-worthy wine that needs a decade to really start to shine. In contrast, the 2022 Wilyabrub Cabernet Sauvignon is already an excellent drink straight from the get-go. But it is also a wine that is clearly capable of extended aging and, at $80 ex-winery, seems like good value.
Reviewed.
Lenton Brae – Southside – Chardonnay – 2024. Lovely wine. Gentle toast, supple fruit, a touch of viscosity and texture all contribute to a compelling offering, with almond meal characters adding interest in the background. This is a fine, elegant chardonnay, and a beautiful drink. The length and persistence of flavours were a highlight. Whilst delicious now, this should also develop more weight with a few years in bottle. 13.0% alc – 94pts – $38.
Lenton Brae – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2024. Lifted, zesty and fresh. Tropical fruit abounds on both the nose and palate supported by gentle phenolics that add texture and a touch of grip on the finish to keep the fruit in balance. Excellent length and persistence, I would not be surprised if there was a touch of barrel ferment in the blend, as the bitter-almond phenolics add impact. The acidity has been really well handled, adding the final touches to a smart wine. Will be popular in the warmer months and represents good value. 73% semillon from 40y/o estate vines. 30% of the wine was fermented in new French oak and spent 2 months on lees. 13.0% alc – 92pts – $24.
Lenton Brae – Cabernet/Merlot – 2023. Wow. For a wine of this price, this has some real interest. There is an inky quality in the blue fruits, but the acidity and tannins act to keep everything in balance, However the tannins are not the fun police. They provide the structure to make this a very enjoyable wine that appears to have been made with the intention of providing early-drinking pleasure, and the winemakers have nailed it. The supple texture and cleansing acidity made this a joy to drink, but there is enough depth to carry some decent food. A bargain, and all the more remarkable given that a portion of this wine was likely to be aged in new French oak. 13.5% alc, 93pts – $28.
The 2017 pinot was the wine that brought Shepherd’s hut to my attention. A fantastic effort (especially at the price) and a wine that is still drinking brilliantly today. If anything, the 2018 was even better and remains a go-to wine when I am looking for a mid-week glass wine.
Since these wines, Laura Wishart, the third generation vigneron at Shepherd’s Hut has worked closely with winemaker Rob Diletti to fine tune vineyard management and has introduced a proportion of whole-bunch fermentation to add texture to the wines, particularly, the premium Michael Mayo pinot.
And with the 2023 vintage, it is crystal clear that these efforts have come to fruition. Both the standard pinot and the Michael Mayo stood out in recent tastings, and represent excellent value at their respective price points.
The first impressions of the 2024s are very positive indeed. At this early stage, the standard pinot is better drinking, but a year or two should see the Michael Mayo blossom.
As a side note, the 2023 shiraz is spectacular drinking. This is by far the most delicious red wine the panel has tried in recent months, when it comes to early drinking pleasure.
Reviewed
Shepherd’s Hut – Shiraz – 2023. This is super vibrant and fresh, and bursting with succulent red and black fruits. I can’t get over just how gob-smackingly delicious this is right from the get go. Raspberry, fragrant plum and hints of floral notes. Underneath this, there are subtle earthy notes, with flashes of liquorice and spice, and a light dusting of tannins and acid to keep the palate in balance. Whilst this is all about the immediate drinking pleasure today, a few years in the cellar will see this gain greater depth. 13.8% alc – 94pts – $30.
Shepherd’s Hut – Michael Mayo – Pinot Noir – 2024. I love the nose for its seductive allure. Plush, ripe strawberry tinged fruit jumps from the glass. It took a bit of air before this really came to life, with dark cherry fruit, textural tannins and refreshing acidity all combining into a rather splendid drink. At this early stage, this is not a showy wine, rather, it is something to be sipped and savoured, whilst contemplating life’s great mysteries (such as whether to have beef cheeks or bolognaise for dinner accompanied by this fine wine). 13.2% alc, 95pts – $55.
Shepherd’s Hut – Pinot Noir – 2024. Straight out of the bottle, this was a touch subdued, (it is very youthful), but as it sat in the glass, the sweetly perfumed fruit came right into focus, supported by a backbone of fine tannins and well-judged acidity. The fruit lingered for some time on the palate, adding to the appeal. The other judges put this in gold medal territory, being impressed by the fruit quality and supple winemaking. Drink now – 2030. 13.3% alc, 93pts $37.
Shepherd’s Hut – Michael Mayo – Pinot Noir – 2023. This is a wine that focuses on ripe, high-quality fruit. Cherry and strawberry come to mind, supported by subtle oak and the finest of tannins. Almost delicate in complexion, this is a charming, high-quality wine which is immensely enjoyable, with excellent length and persistence on the close. 13.1% alc – 95pts.
John Griffiths, Faber’s larger than life winemaker/proprietor hosts what must surely be some of the most enjoyable and best value events held locally each year.
Of all the events, the Benchmark Tasting is the one that lovers of Australian shiraz should put into their calendar.
This is an opportunity to taste twelve high quality shiraz (blinded to the order they are served in) from a cross section of Australian wine regions, complemented by a delicious and substantial four course meal, all washed down with some gems from the Faber cellar.
The highlight for me, however, is the opportunity to compare and contrast a variety of different styles of shiraz which, this year, included eleven distinct regions (the Barossa was the only region with two wines). All wines were from the 2022 vintage.
What stood out for me, was the consistently high quality of the wines, regardless of style. Whilst the cooler region wines such as Swinney and Yarra Yering were a whisker ahead for me, the consensus from the audience was that the warmer region wines were the ones that were most appreciated, with Faber, Standish and Torbreck topping the votes at the end of the day.
And in a very strong line-up it was great to see that the Faber Reserve Shiraz 2022 was the equal crowd favourite!
A special note should be made on Griffith’s passion and bravery to hold this event. It must be nerve-racking to sit and wait whilst people compare and contrast the wines, and pass judgement.
Fortunately, Faber wines are very good indeed. 😊
The line up (in order tasted).
Forest Hill – Block 9 – Shiraz – 2022. This was the first wine of the tasting, and a great way to start. Lovely ripe fruit is pristine, perfumed and fragrant. Spice, mouthfeel and gently chewy texture add to the package on a palate that has truly amazing length. But it is oh so closed and tight right now. Yet this remains silky for the entire length of the very long palate, with the flavours lingering for some time. This is very age-worthy, with extraordinarily fine tannins and oak. 95-96pts. A bargain at $70.
Thomas Kiss – “Kiss” – Shiraz – 2022. More structured and savoury. But still with a core of spectacularly ripe fruit. This is something of a chameleon wine. Whilst it is taut, restrained and fine, there is a core of powerful, dense fruit that runs the length of the palate. The finish has excellent length and persistence and is, for all intents and purposes, seamless. White pepper and minerality build on a finish that is beautifully textured. A wonderful wine which is still available for $80. 97pts.
Torbreck – The Gask – Shiraz – 2022. More in the chocolate spectrum, but with air, the ripe satsuma plum fruit really blossoms. With the first sip I thought” Oh wow, this is just spectacular!” The palate is flooded with supple, fleshy plum-like fruit supported by a frame of gossamer fine tannins and oak. Seamless, silky and absolutely brilliant drinking. But surely it will be even better in a decade. Spent 18 months in one year old oak. 15% alc – 96pts – $90.
By Farr – Shriaz – 2022. Much cooler, with souring plum/cherry fruit that takes on a raspberry hue with air. The palate is fleshy and juicy, with really fine tannins and oak. But it is the acidity that carries this wine along its focused palate journey. Not green, but so, so cool climate in structure. With air, this takes on some smoky, almost bacon fat notes, along with pepper and spice. This is a style that may polarise. 94pts – $110.
Giaconda – Shiraz – 2022. Wow. What a wine. Fragrant, pretty, ripe blueberry, succulent and juicy, yet with a degree of restraint and real gravitas on the finish. The seriousness comes from the way the acidity, tannins and oak all meld seamlessly with the fruit to provide a lattice of supports that serve to highlight the beauty of the wine, without impeding the flow of the fruit in any way. Great length and balance. the souring cherry acidity on the close is a real highlight. 13.8% alc – 97pts – $125.
Seppelt – St Peters – Shiraz – 2022. Another cracking wine, but here, the fruit is just a touch more restrained, with the structural components starring on the palate. This equates to an irresistible texture on a virtually seamless palate. Wonderful length and persistence of flavours and textures. Slightly cooler in character, there is more red berry fruit than plum here. So, so balanced and age-worthy. Amazing wine. 14.5% alc – 96pts – $80.
Swinney – Farvie – Shiraz – 2022. Smells somewhat cooler, with hints of mint and even a touch of eucalypt. This flows onto a palate that is lithe, supple and medium-bodied, but also structured, powerful and very, very fine. Superb, the sense of presence this has in the mouth is something to behold. Length is a feature, with supple savoury notes adding greatly. Oak is for all intents and purposes, invisible, but a key contributor to the wine’s structure. An iron fist in a velvet glove? Yes. A remarkable wine. 14 months in seasoned oak, partial whole-bunch. 13.5% alc – 98pts – $180.
Glaetzer – Amon Ra – Shiraz – 2022. This is a bit of beast straight up. Powerful fruit, firm tannins, complexity-building oak. Remarkably, the palate is virtually seamless, yet the fruit is completely blanketed by the structural components. Immensely age-worthy, this is a traditional style of great merit. But it needs time and patience to show its best. And will score higher points when it does. 16 months in 100% new oak (95% French hogshead). Vine age ranges from 50 – 130 years old. 15% alc – 95+pts – $100.
Wendouree – Shiraz – 2022. This is an interesting wine as here, the peppery minerality is the key feature up front. The ripe fruit is there, but it is sitting sleepily in the corner, while the very fine oak, tannins and acidity dance on the palate. As this sits in the glass, the fruit starts to open up and give clues to its potential. The finish is seamless and silky, in a very structured way. Going back to this over time, it was clearly even better than I first thought: the balance between the fruit, winemaking and acid is truly superb. One of my favourite wines of the tasting. 96-97pts – $85.
Faber – Reserve – Shiraz – 2022. There is more plum here, and lashings of creamy oak which has a seductive vanillin character. The fruit is ripe, super ripe, befitting a prestige shiraz from the Swan Valley, with the acidity being the hero here, keeping the fruit fresh and adding drive to the finish. The palate is very long with great persistence, and the fruit remains focused throughout the palate transition. After 20 minutes in the glass, this really started to shine and was clearly the audience’s pick for the day. A classic, warm region shiraz, this spent 22 months in new oak hogsheads prior to bottling. 95pts – $100 (a bargain at $80 for club members via the website).
Yarra Yering – No 2 – Shiraz – 2022. Everything is taken down a notch here, and all the better for it. The lighter toned, more structured fruit has been perfectly matched to supple, texturing oak and feathery tannins. Ripe? Yes, but a cooler expression of ripe shiraz. The structural notes make their presence felt on the finish, gradually corralling in the fruit which, when combined with the acidity, confers an almost nervous energy to the wine. Exciting, exhilarating, enthralling, this is a stunning wine. In the glass, both blue and red fruit characters build and are quite floral and perfumed. Pepper? Yes, but this is more about minerality than spice. 96% shiraz, with a splash of marsanne, mataro and viognier. Aged in French oak barriques for 15 months (25% new). 13.5% alc – 97 – 98pts – $135.
Standish – The Standish – 2022. This is a very big wine, and the crowd loved it. Dense, viscous, chocolate, coffee, menthol and a supple resinous note. There are layers upon layers of fruit cascading across the palate. With so much intensity, this is the essence of ripe shiraz. Incredible length and depth, every fruit character you want in a warm region shiraz. For fans of big shiraz, this is as good it gets. The oak a feature, but is perfectly matched to the fruit. The tannins are impactful and structuring. The wine does come with a caveat however: for me, I can’t think when I would ever drink this. It is just too much for me. 96pts.
Footnote: For a different take on the tasting, you can read Alan Wilkerson’s excellent review here.
Barry Weinman: 22nd June 2025 In a line up of predominantly very high-quality chardonnay, the Moss Wood Elsa sauvignon blanc was a real eye opener. A brilliant wine that shows the potential that can be achieved with this style in Margaret River. And great value!
And the panel were very pleased with the quality of sparkling wines that is being made in WA. In a line up of 10 wines, the Frazer Woods and Marri Wood Park both stood out.
Reviewed
Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale – Elsa – Sauvignon Blanc – 2024. Complex and serious, this is most impressive. The power of the fruit mirrors that of fine chardonnay, as does the barrel and lees work. The pristine lemony fruit is the main focus, but the texture and mouthfeel, along with the sheer depth of fruit makes this very special indeed. And it is all the better for the drying finish. 14.0% alc, 95pts.
Coldstream Hills – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. Fine and elegant and already so, so approachable. This is high quality, but it is a clearly different style to the WA wines. Lemon/citrus characters are the key feature of the high-quality fruit, and the taut acid will benefit from time in bottle to soften and allow the fruit to better express itself. Supple oak and lees work add to the package, adding depth and texture. A high-quality, tightly coiled wine that needs 5+ years to hit its straps. 13.0% alc – 95pts.
Marri Wood Park – Sparkling – Chenin Blanc – 2020. This is a very nice drink. It is rounder and more approachable than the somewhat leaner style wines that we often see, with decent acidity that provides balance, but does not become a defining feature at any point along the palate transition. Lemony fruit, with gentle autolytic notes leads on to a finish that, despite the dosage, feels relatively dry. User friendly and would suit food well. 93pts.
Frazer Woods – Sparkling – NV. This initially presents as quite subdued, but as it sits in the mouth, it builds layers of tasty, toasty characters that linger for some time, and the fruit feels quite serious. Well-judged dosage, fine, refreshing acidity and lees aged autolytics all contribute to the package. 93pts – $34.
Xanadu Premium Release – 2023 Chardonnays and 2022 Cabernets
Barry Weinman: 19th June 2025
The release of the premium Xanadu wines is always eagerly anticipated by the panel and the current batch did not disappoint.
It is fascinating how different the wines are, even though they are only separated by a few km. The Wallcliffe wines feel markedly cooler in character to those from Wilyabrup In 2023, I have put the Stevens Road ahead by a whisker for the chardonnays, but the Reserve is the wine most likely to win you new friends. It is such an approachable and friendly wine.
With the cabernets, it was hard to separate them on absolute quality, but stylistically, they are very different.
Reviewed
Xanadu – Stephens Road – Chardonnay – 2023. Talk about impact! As I brought the glass to my nose with this wine, the powerful, peachlike fruit leapt from the glass. But it was not just primary fruit, it was the panoply of aromas (from flint and minerals to struck match) that amplified the impact. Yet the wine remained tightly focused at all times. In the mouth, the fruit sits more in the grapefruit spectrum and, whilst quite tight and restrained, has wonderful line and length. The length is, in fact, a standout feature. The wine underwent barrel fermentation, however malolactic fermentation was prevented to preserve freshness of acidity. Drink now with seared scallops or give it 5 years to fully unwind and show its ultimate potential. 13.0% alc, 96+pts.
Xanadu – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. This is more reserved and, if anything, more mainstream, and all the better for it. In fact, this is quite special. The ripe fruit is the focus and has seamless palate transition and great length. This is already so good right now. The finish is viscous, textured and supported by brilliant oak use. A better wine than the Stevens Road? In absolute terms, no: but it is a more accessible style that many will prefer.
The fruit for this wine is made with Gingin clone fruit from the Lagan vineyard, which is the oldest chardonnay vineyard on the property. It underwent 100% barrel fermentation with wild yeast and was aged in French oak (20% new). 13.0% alc – 96pts.
Xanadu – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This is a very good wine, in a very different style to others in the tasting. Here, the fruit is darker in profile and the structural notes have a greater impact. Yet this remains balanced and fine, with the structural components never getting in the way of the superb fruit. Impressive, and the length of flavours is a standout. The acids and tannins eventually shut down the fruit somewhat, suggesting that up to 20 years in the cellar will only see this wine improve. Includes a small proportion of malbec and pedit verdot. 14.0% alc – 96pts.
Xanadu – Stephens Road – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. It is fascinating how differently high-quality cabernet can present. This is another superb wine, but the flavours and textures are different to the Reserve in a very good way. Blackberry and blackcurrant feature, but here, the souring acid is more prominent as compared to the tannins, which suggests a cooler site. But the length and persistence of flavours and textures are equal to the best. 40% new oak was used during maturation. A lovely wine that, in this line up, was the one that would benefit the most from cellaring or from being served with fine food. Beef ribs come to mind… Fantastic wine! 14.0% alc – 96pts.
The 2021 Tom Cullity is one of the finest wines from Margaret River that I have had the pleasure of tasting. And the 2023 Diana Madeline is a superstar.
But what had the panel talking was the 2022 Blackstone Paddock from Aldi. Sensational value.
It has been a while since the panel has reviewed any wines from Yalumba and the panel was uniformly in gold medal territory with the 2022 The Signature. There is a degree of velvety generosity that makes this a delightful wine to drink, even at this early stage.
Reviewed
Yalumba – The Signature – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – 2022. Delicious!. This is a riper, more accessible wine than the Margaret River cabernets, and a fantastic counterpoint to those cooler region wines. Mint? Yes, blackcurrant? Yes. This has all the trademarks of high-quality cabernet, but there is another layer to this wine, with plum, liquorice and gentle spices all adding to the package. Excellent length and persistence are a highlight, while the acidity keeping the whole package alive and fresh. Superb tannin management adds to the textural charm. Wonderful wine. 14.4% alc, 96pts.
Vasse Felix – Tom Cullity – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2021. OMG, this has the most fantastic nose. Ripe blueberry and blackcurrant fruit positively leaps from the glass, supported by a frame of supple oak. The palate is, if anything, even more exciting, and a brilliant expression of super premium cabernet. A remarkable wine that is brilliant now, but will be even better with time in the cellar. My wine of the 2021 vintage from Margaret River and a superstar. 19% Malbec, 16 months in French oak barriques (68% new), 14.0% alc, 97+pts.
Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. Oh my, this is also spectacular, but presenting in a very different way. Here, the silky fruit is everything. Ripe, yet restrained, this has poise and grace. In the mouth, the cascade of fruit continues to excite, with the finest, most polished tannins providing an invisible lattice of support, yet contributing greatly to the mouthfeel and sense of power and gravitas. An exceptional wine. now to 20yrs +. Cassis. 13.5% alc, 96pts
Blackstone Paddock – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. OK, so lets get one thing clear. This was not as good as the Tom Cullity or Diana Madeline, but… for $20, it is a spectacular buy. Darker fruit notes, firms structure and real depth to the fruit. If anything, this has echoes of Bordeaux to the way it sits in the mouth. There is plenty of power and firm tannins, suggesting that 5 – 10 years cellaring would be handsomely repaid. Get it while you can from Aldi. 14.5% alc, 95pts – $22.
Wolf Blass – Black Label – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – 2018. Given my preconceptions of this wine as a big, rich and powerful wine, it is remarkable restrained and polished. The fruit is silky and supple and has an almost medium-bodied feel to it. But there is depth and intensity sitting behind this, supported by supple oak that really adds to the silky mouthfeel. Ultimately, this is closed and just a baby, but it is a lovely wine all the same. 14.5% alc, 95pts.
