Category Archives: New Release – Wine Reviews

Riesling – New Release

Reviewed: 4 February 2013

Riesling is a fascinating grape as it can take on many different personalities depending on where it is grown and how it is handled in the winery. Bone dry, off dry, medium or sweet, the choice is yours. As long as there is appropriate acidity to balance the sweetness, the result can be thrilling.

This tasting had a variety of styles. Do not be afraid to try the wines that are off-dry. Done well, this style can offer immense drinking pleasure.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongurup – 2012 (18+). Because this wine is quite closed and tight, it initially shows subdued fruit in a soft, round package that is easy to like and very satisfying. Opens to show apple, floral notes and citrus blossom, with minerality and precise acidity rounding out the palate. Deceptively delicious now, this is very age-worthy.

Galafrey – Riesling – Dry Land – 2012 (18). Minerals over lime-like fruit characters on the nose, while the palate is powerful, yet austere. The minerality is a feature of the palate combined with tart phenolic texture. Racy and lively, this has quality fruit and should age well.

Howard Park – Riesling – Great Southern – 2012 (18). Wow, this has piercing acidity right now. Very young and powerful, this wine is all about potential. The thrust on the palate is intense and powerful, but there is no joy at present. Drink the Porongurup while waiting for this to become ready.

West Cape Howe – Riesling – Mount Barker – 2012 (17.8). Very attractive, if somewhat subdued nose. The palate is fresh and racy with lemony fruit and acid. Not overly complex, this is an excellent mid-tier wine that can be enjoyed now or in ten years. Classic style.

Bellarmine – Riesling – Dry – 2012 (17.5 – 18). Almost tropical fruit on the nose and the palate. There is limey fruit that is fleshy and delicious, while the finish is near seamless and beautifully balanced. The flavours linger for some time. I am not sure why they label this as dry, as it is not bone dry. Perfect for current drinking.

Singlefile – Riesling – Porongurup – 2012 (17.5). Opens with floral fruit that is both attractive and alluring. The palate is rich and forward, with a touch of phenolics to add texture. The finish is dominated by lovely refreshing acidity that has citrus overtones. Delicious, but will also develop well in the medium term. Excellent length and persistence.

Leo Buring – Riesling – Clare Valley – 2012 (17.5). Closed on the nose, the palate has textbook riesling characters. Think citrus with a touch of fragrant, floral perfume. The plate is fresh, vibrant and zesty, yet well balanced. Delicious now, but will be better in a few years.

Riesling – New Release

Reviewed: 28 October 2012

This was a very instructive tasting. There was no surprise that wines from the likes of Pewsey Vale, Cherubino and O’Leary Walker were of high quality. What was a surprise was just how good the new Millbrook riesling is. This is definitely a winery to watch as they are making some excellent wines right now.

An interesting point to come out of the tasting was that several of the wines were a touch reductive. After even half an hour in the bottle, the wines became progressively brighter and more full of life.

Reviewed

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – Contours – 2007 (18.7). A wine in two parts. This is more golden coloured reflecting time in the bottle, with lovely honeyed development on the nose. The palate is outstanding, with toasty development coming in over lovely citrus fruit. The length is excellent and the intensity of the finish has to be tried to be appreciated. Superb drinking, this is more developed than I would have expected from a wine of this age. With air though, this freshened up remarkably, leaving a wine that, at five years, is only part way through its life. Remarkable!

Cherubino – Riesling – Porongurup – 2012 (18.5). Very pale colour. The wine possesses a restrained nose that is taut and fine, the nervous energy palpable. The palate bursts forth with lime and lemon zest characters, lovely acidity and tremendous depth. Very long and seamless, this is a superb wine that, whilst drinking beautifully now, will get even better over the next 10+ years.

Millbrook – Riesling – 2012 (18.2). Lean and elegant in comparison to some here. This is a very fine wine of some quality. The palate has lemony fruit over minerals and slate. The acid is a highlight and really frames the fruit well. Great length and intensity, the near seamless palate possesses a vibrancy that is addictive. A superb wine from the Great Southern.

Cherubino – Riesling – Great Southern – 2012 (18+). Very pale straw colour. The nose is closed, reserved, tight, fine elegant and restrained. Yet there is life and vitality on the palate, as the acid and fruit is pristine and bright. With an extremely long and fine finish, this will blossom over the next ten years. Even better after a day on the tasting bench.

O’Leary Walker – Riesling – Polish Hill River – 2012 (17.9). Positively alive and leaping from the glass. This has all the characteristics of good riesling, with excellent length and acid on the finish. High quality fruit that has been made bone dry.

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – Prima – 2011 (17.8). The first thing that you notice with this wine is the Germanic level of sweetness. After this, the fine, high quality fruit (grapefruit) and fresh, vibrant acidity cut through making the balance quite superb. The fruit characters are a touch subdued, but this gets added marks for being a great drink. Harvested three weeks earlier than the rest of the vineyard, this has 24 grams of residual sugar and less than 10% alcohol. It will make a superb stand-alone drink on a warm afternoon this summer.

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – 2012 (17.7+). Remarkably tight and fine, with lovely citrus notes on the nose. Minerality, lime and lemon zest acidity flood the palate, with a touch of phenolic richness on the finish. Like several wines in the tasting, this really shone after being open for a few hours. Will evolve and improve and sure to score higher points.

O’Leary Walker – Riesling – Watervale – 2012 (17.5+). A slightly richer style with more upfront fruit and body. When first opened, the phenolics on the finish made this a bit grippy, yet, again, this really improved with air. Good length and texture now with a lovely finish. This will age very well

Duke’s – Riesling – Single Vineyard – 2012 (17.5). Fragrant sherbet and musk over lime brulée. There is a lovely mouth-feel here, with creamy fruit and soft, though fresh and persistent acid. A lovely drink now, but should also evolve for some time. From the Porongorups.

Riesling and Chardonnay

12 November 2010

Troy Denham, the State Manager for Fours Seasons Fine Wines, was keen to put a couple of wines from their excellent portfolio into our masked tasting to see how they performed. It was with this in mind that we looked at several brackets of riesling, and a bracket of chardonnays. There were a couple of real stars in the tasting, so the wines had their work cut out.

It was no surprise that the Grossett rieslings did well, they are the benchmark for Australian rieslings. That the 2010 wines from Xabregas showed so well was impressive. Importantly, wines like the Leasingham Bin 7 do not show well in these tastings. The firm acidity makes them hard work now but guarantees a 20 year cellaring future.

The highlight of the chardonnay bracket was the contrast between the two wines from Xanadu. The Stevens Road was impressive in all respects. The sheer weight of fruit combined with turbo-charged wine-making inputs makes this a wine that must be noticed. By comparison, the Reserve was superbly balanced, making it a joy to drink!

Finally, Angove has done it again with their Butterfly Ridge which retails for $7. It is a sound wine that drinks well.

Reviewed

Riesling

Grossett – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2010 (18.7). Very citrusy nose. Lemon and lime juice with a touch of curd. A powerful wine, this has spectacular line and length. The length really is incredible and the fruit quality impeccable. The palate is dominated by steely fruit and limey acidity. This is tight and quite austere, but will be a superstar.

Grossett – Riesling – Springvale – 2010 (18.5). This has everything! There is floral fruit laid over minerals and slate. Passionfruit, lime and even a touch of lavender. The palate is fresh and vibrant. The abundant acid is remarkably soft and allows the fruit to flourish. This will live for many years, but is relatively approachable now.

Xabregas – Riesling – X – Spencer Road – 2010 (18.5). Extraordinarily pale and almost with a touch of spritz. Quite Germanic in a kabinet style really, with lovely aromatics. This is extraordinarily fine and delicate, yet there is immense power behind the wine. If there is a hint of sweetness, the acid balances the wine beautifully.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Pannoo Vineyard – 2010 (18.3). Reserved, with a steely backbone. There is musk, sherbet and lime juice acidity that frames the finish. There is a touch of talc on the back palate. The length is impressive and this just needs time to flourish.

Lucien Albrecht – Riesling – Reserve – 2009 (18). Lovely floral/aromatic nose not dissimilar to gwertztraminer. Really seductive with lime juice and musk, the fruit characters carry through on an impressive finish that is rich and textured.

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongurup – 2010 (17.9). Again, shy. This is high in acid, but it is not aggressive. There is lemony fruit, but it is struggling to make its presence felt. This opens and gets really juicy. Very fine wine.

Xabregas – Riesling – 2010 (17.8) Floral and sweet fruit characters. This is textured, viscous and long. The obvious residual sugar carries the palate and the acid keeps the balance. Drink on a warm afternoon by itself.

Plantaganet – Riesling – 2009 (17.7). Much rounder, even a touch creamy. Again more to the steely side, but with some passionfruit and citrus notes coming through. The finish is very long, with lemony acidity providing the length. Sound wine. Powdery, fine, more modern and greater length.

Xabregas – Riesling – Show Reserve – 2009 (17.5). Minerals to the fore. Steely, with a touch of lanolin. Piercing acidity but balanced. Long and fine finish, but really needs time. 10 yrs+

Howard Park – Riesling – Museum Release – 2006 (17.4). Some developed characters with a touch of toast and just a hint of kerosene, (A good thing). Just starting to hit its drinking window, the developed toasty notes are balanced by fine acidity. Good drinking.

Leasingham – Riesling – Bin 7 – 2009 (17.3+). Lemony fruit, though the acid gets to me at the moment. There is good quality fruit, but it needs many years to emerge from the steely framework.

Boston Bay – Riesling – 2010 (17.1). Restrained, with textured and structural components more obvious now. The palate is fine and well balanced, with lime and mineral components. Falls away on the finish a touch, but a good effort.

Angove – Riesling/Gwertztraminer – Butterfly Ridge – 2010 (16.5). Floral and aromatic, there is musk, lychee and passionfruit. The palate is viscous and textured but the acid helps avoid the finish becoming cloying (just). At $7,this is another screaming bargain.

Talisman – Riesling – 2009 (16). Much more steely and racy, this has good length, though it is not so complex.

Chardonnay

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2009 (18.5). Quite burgundian nose, with almond meal and minerals combined with well judged oak. The palate has lovely fresh acidity and there is a touch of citrus and stonefruit characters to finish. Really subtle oak and well integrated. Texture is very good. The balance of this wine is a highlight and after a day or two sitting open on the tasting bench, this really blossomed.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Stevens Road – 2009 (18.4). This is BIG! Well made wine, with all wine-makers fingerprints evident. There are creamy textural components on the nose, along with mealy cashew and almond notes and a gentle creaminess. The intensity of the fruit on the palate is outstanding, thought the piercing acidity is a touch dominant now. There is pineapple fruit on the palate and textural wine-maker’s inputs. Great length and a very textured finish, with the barrel ferment, lees and oak components all adding to the finish. This has more of everything and is for lovers of big, (but not blowsy) chardonnay.

Clairault – Chardonnay – Estate – 2008 (17.4). This has some toasty oak notes to open. The palate is long and very closed, with the supple oak dominating the finish. I would like to see this again in 6 months to see where it is going.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.2). Dumb. This is a very minerally wine with textural wine-makers inputs. Reserved and tight, this needs a few years to open up. There is some fresh peachy fruit, but this is just developing.

New Release Riesling

15th August 2009

This week saw the panel look at 20 current release rieslings, primarily from Western Australia. While it is quite hard work trying 20 wines high in acidity, these tastings allow a sense of perspective on what is happening out there. The most interesting aspect to come from this is to see how styles are evolving.

The panel made note of the fact that many of the wines tasted were high in acid, but with their primary floral fruit suppressed somewhat. There is no doubt that many of the wines will improve dramatically in the cellar, but they are hard work right now.

There are exceptions of course, and the pair of wines from Galafrey were a highlight. Given that the reserve will sell for $20 or less, they represent outstanding value. Buy a case of each, and drink the standard while you wait for the reserves to mature. The Castle Rock continues to impress, as attested to by the fact that I have already consumed half the case that I bought.

The Abbey Creeks and the Duke’s were a disappointment, and I wonder if these bottles had problems with there handling.

Tasted

Galafrey – Dry Land Reserve – Riesling – 2009 (18+). Essence of riesling here. Really perfumed with roses and violets. The palate is long, fine and complex. There is fine acid structure and zesty fruit too. Sweet fruit to close. Seductive.

Castle Rock – Riesling – 2008 (18). Fresh lime and zest on the nose, the palate is lively, bright, mouth watering and long. The fruit really builds. Drinks well, but will age well.

Gilberts – Riesling – 2008 (18). This wine is all about minerals, acidity and length. The fruit is very shy at the moment. This will be very good with time.

Galafrey – Dry Land – Riesling – 2009 (17.9). Pretty wine that opens with musk sticks and lime juice. The palate is long, floral and pretty. Lime to close. Modern, fresh and delicious.

KT and the Falcon – Peglidis Vineyard – Riesling – 2008 (17.5). Fresh and vibrant fruit, with a touch of caramel. The palate is long, with fine acid. The fruit builds. This really opened up the next day with classic Clare fruit.

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Riesling – 2008 (17.4). A perfumed, and complex wine with rose water notes. The palate has lemony fruit, minerals and more floral characters. Fruit checked by acid. (This wine requires a bit of faith, as experience has shown that these wines age brilliantly)

3 Drops – Riesling – 2008 – Twist (17.2). Fresh lemon and lime brulee. This is bright with crunchy granny smith apples on the palate. Very long, but has bracing acidity right now. Textured to close. Serious wine that needs years to reach its peak. Opened up nicely with air.

Goundrey – Reserve – Riesling – 2008 (17). A pretty wine, but without the structure of the 3 Drops. Floral and fragrant.

Xabregas – Show Reserve – Riesling – 2009 (17). Closed. There is acid and musk. There is good fruit underneath, but it will take the brave or the patient to find out. Musk and acid+++. The fruits good but I am not prepared to find out.

Plantagenet – Riesling – 2004 (16.9). Some developed characters on the nose, that follow onto a developed and round palate. Some floral characters too. Good drinking, but lacks zing.

Duke’s – Magpie Hill Reserve – Riesling – 2008 (16.5). Tropical fruit, with even a touch of durian. Searing acidity masks all fruit. May improve dramatically in the bottle.

Mixed Reds – New Release

Reviewed: 10 December 2012

This tasting was a good opportunity to look at some of the other wines that have been floating around the tasting bench for the last couple of months, waiting for a suitable bracket to be put in.

There was a wide selection of grape varieties and styles. It was interesting (though not unexpected) to see the Australian wines displaying more richness of fruit as compared to their European counterparts. Whilst not in the “traditional” style, these wines can represent excellent drinking.

Reviewed

Catena – Malbec – 2010 (17.7). Smart wine this. Ripe, though restrained fruit that is dense, yet supple. There are blueberry flavours over complex, savoury notes. Supple, mouth-coating and slightly viscous, the palate is delicious. The tannins shut down the fruit on the finish now, but there is no denying the quality. 5 – 10 years would only help.

Pazo San Mauro – Albarino – 2010 (17). Minerals to the fore over lemony fruit with lovely zesty acidity on the finish. Long and refreshing, this has good mouth-feel, with a touch of phenolic richness and lees influence to add depth and complexity. A dry, worked style of some charm (Rias Biaxas).

Swinney – Tempranilo/Cabernet Sauvignon/Grenache – Ingenue – Tirra Lirra – 2012 (17). Dense fruit that has a touch of tar. The lovely sweet fruit here gives away its new world origins. The palate is flooded with ripe fruit and sweet oak. A mouth-filling new world red with just enough tannin and acid on the close to keep it interesting.

West Cape Howe – Tempranillo – 2011 (17). Dusty, savoury nose that is varietally correct. The palate has lean though ripe fruit and is dominated by sour cherry characters that run right through to the close. The finish is very long and the tannins are fine, yet palpable. An excellent effort as this is identifiably tempranillo by its structure. (Perth Hills and Frankland).

Deen De Bortoli

Reviewed: 1 October 2012

Over the last few years, there are a couple of wineries have consistently produced high quality wines at all price points. This includes the likes of Hardys, Houghton, Mc Williams, Penfolds and De Bortoli. Whether it is $10 supermarket specials or limited release premium wines, these wineries consistently produce excellent wines.

I had the opportunity to look at the ever reliable Deen De Bortoli reds recently in various blind tastings and the current releases continues the tradition of over-delivering on the value proposition. These wines are often available for around $10 per bottle!

My picks of the range are as follows.

Reviewed

De Bortoli – Cabernet Sauvignon – Deen – Vat 9 – 2010 (17.5+). Really deep smelling fruit that belies the meager price that this will sell for. Blackcurrant, cedar, mint and menthol flood the palate. The good quality fruit has been very well handled and there is a long and textured finish. The persistence of the fruit flavours really is a standout. Delicious now, this will actually age well in the short term.

De Bortoli – Durif – Deen – Vat 1 – 2010 (17.5). Refined and elegant, this is dense and mouth-filling, but the wine is in no way overblown. Excellent structure and mouth feel with a vibrant finish on the palate. The fruit is subdued, so food would sit really well with this. Superbly made, modern and interesting.

De Bortoli – Petit Verdot – Deen – Vat 4 – 2009 (16.7). Cordial like fruit aromas that remind me of strawberry jam. Sweet red berry fruit on the palate, with firm, drying tannins to close. An interesting wine with dense and quite powerful fruit.

Argentinean Imports

Reviewed: 1 September 2012

Rob Lurie and Brad Ross (Redwax) focus on importing wines from Mendoza in Argentina. Specifically, Malbec based wines are the basis of their portfolio.

The wines are notable for possessing quality fruit and for being well made. Whilst not cheap, the wines are worth trying as they offer a departure from shiraz and cabernet, yet possess dense, ripe fruit and modern winemaking. Of the four wines we tried, the Gran Reserve is my pick. Well made, yet deliciously different. The Prestige pips it for quality, but needs years to reach its best.

For stock, try La Vigna in Mt Lawley, De Vine Cellars, Steve’s Fine Wine and Swanbourne Cellars.

Reviewed

Mairena – Malbec/Bonarda – Reserve – 2008 (17.4). Dense fruit on the nose showing licorice and earthy notes, with a spicy lift. The palate has chocolate, mocha, dense fruit, spice and licorice over chewy tannins. There is good texture and length and the finish is rich and warm with a savoury edge.

Carinae – Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon – Brigitte – 2009 (16.8). Different. This is earthy, textured and long, though the fruit characters tend towards cherry and sour plum. Really needs food to bring out its best, but there is good depth and the finish is mouth-watering. The tannins are more textural and the oak adds depth. Fun wine.

Carinae – Malbec – Gran Reserve – 2008 (17.9). Sweet fruit and oak on the nose, this is a very attractive wine. Dense, plush and mouth-filling, the fruit is ripe and well suited to the new oak treatment. The tannins are prodigious, yet fine and really drive the finish. Length is a feature, as is the mouth-feel. The fruit and oak quality are obvious, and the mouth-feel excellent.

Carinae – Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Prestige – 2008 (18+). Dense notes of berry, chocolate and cherry. More refined and elegant than the Gran Reserve, with gentle, ripe and subtle fruit on the nose. Long and fine, the palate reflects the quality fruit, though the tannins and acid keep it in check at the moment. A very good wine that shows elegance and class.

New Release – Mixed

Reviewed: 21 April 2012

Some solid wines here, and many worth a try.

If you are looking for something with a bit of age, then check out the wines from Galafrey. Kim Tyrer has made these wines available for her friends at Fine Wine Club at bargain prices. The 2009 riesling (which is very good) is $120 per case and the 2003 shiraz (a solid wine) is $100 per case

Reviewed

Galafrey – Riesling – Dry Land Reserve – 2009 (17.5+). Intense lime juice over floral fruit. A bright wine that, whilst fresh and vibrant, is just starting to get the viscosity and texture that comes with age. Seamless finish that has real persistence. Minerals and flint on a finish that appears not quite bone-dry and better for it.

Windows Estate – Petit Verdot – 2010 (17.5). Dense and earthy, this is a traditional dry red in style. Medium-bodied, with good depth of flavour, this is a wine that really grew on me. Some new oak adds opulence.

Kangarilla Road – Sangiovese – 2010 (17.3). Has everything in place, but this is hard work right now. Cherry and plum fruit, licorice, tar and roses too. Good length and real potential, given the dense fruit and good texture.

Running With Bulls – Tempranillo – Barossa – 2011 (17.2). I like this more than its sister wine from Wrattonbully. Savoury (coffee and cinnamon), supple fruit with slightly grippy tannins adding freshness and texture to the finish. Well made and a good drink, with an almost sea breeze freshness on the finish. Would really benefit from some savoury food.

Clairault – Petit Verdot – Cellar Release – 2010 (17). Intense nose that shows quite herbal fruit characters. Long and savoury, with lovely tannins and tight oak, this is more about structure than fruit right now. Bordeaux-like, I like it, but it wont appeal to all.

Kingston Estate – Petit Verdot – 2010 (17). Lovely perfumed nose up front. This has white pepper, spice, savoury tannins and good oak use. There is souring cherry fruit that really livens the palate. Lingers.

Galafrey – Merlot – Dry Grown – 2008 (16.8). Very plump and juicy, with overt fruit, this is made in an approachable style. Ripe and fleshy, this is a good early consumption red with enough power to carry substantial food.

Calmel & JJoseph – Shiraz/Grenache/Carignan – Faugeres – 2009 (16.5). Light and fresh nose and palate that has plenty of ripe fruit. This wine is uncomplicated by oak and is really juicy. Excellent short term drinking and a bargain. Received high marks from one judge and could easily be mistaken for a quality Cotes Du Rhone. A bargain at $12.99 from Get Wines Direct.

Galafrey – Shiraz – Frankland River – 2003 (16.5). Touch dusty, but there is a core of ripe fruit, showing licorice, chocolate and plum, with a hint of menthol. Although this has started to show the benefits of age, the acids and tannins are still softening. A big wine that is fully aged, with a touch of volatility on a finish that is starting to dry out. An affordable way to try an aged wine as this is being cleared out by the winery.

Temple Bruer – Montepulciano – Preservative Free and Organic – 2011 (16.5). Fresh, juicy, grapey and plump, with some savoury characters too. The palate is fresh, with more of the plump fruit. Simple and uncomplicated, but perfectly sound. Modern and well made, this is a very good preservative-free wine.

New Release – Mixed Reds

Reviewed – 24 May 2011

I always find these tastings difficult, as there is no textbook style that I can use to compare the wines against. Having said that, the fundamentals do not change. Quality fruit and wine-making combine to make enjoyable wines.

Of the wines to make it to this page, the Henry’s Seven from Henschke and the Butcher’s Block from Turkey Flat are my picks. They may not be quite as good as their more expensive stable mates, however they are both delicious and make for great short to medium term drinking.

On a separate note, Tony Ingle, Chief Winemaker at Angoves was in town with Richard Angove to showcase their new super premium wines. Angove is releasing two new wines. One is a single vineyard Barossa shiraz/grenache and the other is a straight shiraz called The Medhyk. Both wines are nothing short of spectacular. I have not reviewed them her as they were not tasted blind, but both would have scored 18 – 18.5 easily.

These will be available later this year in very small quantities. At around $50, they wont be cheap, but if you see one on a wine list or in an independent retailer, they are definitely worth trying.

Reviewed

Henschke – Grenache/Mouvedre/Shiraz – Johann’s Garden – 2009 (17.8). Denser and less open than many here. Savoury characters to the fore. Rich and ripe fruit that is of excellent quality. Long and supple finish. Whilst the alcohol is just evident, it does not detract from the enjoyment. Give it a few years or a big steak.

Henschke – Shiraz/Grenache/Viognier/Mouvedre – Henry’s Seven – 2009 (17.5). Again, lovely perfume on the nose. This is a pretty wine that is very aromatic and vibrant. Lovely mouth-feel and texture too. This is only medium bodied, but it is a very good wine that is drinking a treat now, yet will take a few years bottle age too.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Haycutters – 2008 (17.5). More perfume and fragrance compared to everything else here. Generous fruit that is ripe, mouth-filling and plush. There is a touch of plum and smoke to the fleshy fruit. This would make a great everyday red this winter. (Vintage Cellars exclusive).

Turkey Flat – Shiraz/Grenache/Mouvedre – Butchers Block – 2009 (17.5). Sweet ripe fruit here. Lovely mouth-feel and texture, though initially, it appears quite angular. There is licorice, spice, cedar and dark fruits. Very silky and with excellent length. A smart wine that will provide drinking pleasure over the next 5-8 years.

Higher Plane – Merlot – 2008 (17.3). Deeper colour and denser fruit on the nose. Dusty fruit, plum, cherry, tar and leather. Really opens up to show pretty fruit. A good effort.

Ferngrove – Malbec – King – 2008 (17+). Vibrant colour. Tannic and firm at first and the fruit is hidden by the oak and fruit tannins. Builds in the mouth and should improve in the medium term. Requires a bit of faith but should be very good. Really opened up to show lovely mulberry fruit and subtle spice.

Turkey Flat – Grenache – 2007 (16.8). We do not see many straight grenaches on the market, which is a shame. Think perfume and spice, but also some medicinal characters that characterised the finish. Old vine fruit that is ripe and dense. Oak adds to the finish.

Crittenden Estate – Sangiovese – Pinocchio – 2010 (16.7). A better combination of savoury notes, with some ripe fruit flavours over the top. Uncomplicated, but enjoyable. Have it with a bowl of pasta. One panelist described this as sexy, floral and elegant.

New Release Sauvignon Blanc and Rose

4 February 2011

Question. What is a good rose supposed to taste like?

Answer. Nobody knows!

The Rose revival continues in Australia, but the question is… who is drinking them? It is very challenging to walk into a bottle shop and choose a rose that you are unfamiliar with as there is no way of knowing what it will taste like.

If you buy a bottle of riesling, then you expect it o taste like riesling. With rose, there are so many styles that it gets confusing. In this tasting, we looked at a number of wines that ranged from sugary fruit-bombs to delicate, pale and dry wines. To me the wines from De Bortoli were the stand-out, as they seam perfectly suited to a plate of antipasto.

The sauvignon blancs were also hit and miss. They were all Australian and again, the styles varied.

It is worth pointing out that this tasting had a high attrition rate, with many wines not making it to these pages.

Tasted

White

Deviation Road – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Grassy and slightly savoury nose. The palate is more straightforward, with lovely zesty acidity. There are hints of tropical fruit on a refreshing finish. Points for being a good drink.

Wicks Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Quite oily and textured nose with aromas in the gooseberry/grassy spectrum. There is also a mealy almond character. The palate is dense and textured, with more secondary characters. A touch of viscosity in the mouth adds to the finish.

Sarantos – Sauvignon Blanc – Soft Press – 2010 (16.5). Quite vibrant and floral. Long and crisp, this has texture and spice on the palate.

Xabregas – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (16.5). Initially closed, but develops some floral notes. The palate is bursting with vibrant fruit. There is plenty of fresh acidity and a hint of residual sugar to balance the finish. Will be better in six months due to the relatively high CO2 and a touch of sulphur. (One panelist felt this was more like a riesling in style).

De Bortoli – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon/Rolle – La Boheme – Act One – 2010 (16.4). Almond meal on the nose. The palate is lean, dry and crisp. A good drink.

Rymill – Sauvignon Blanc – The Yearling – 2010 (16.2). Grassy/herbaceous nose that follows through to the palate. A firm finish suggests a relatively serious wine that should improve with some time in the bottle.

Rose

De Bortoli – Rose – 2010 (16.7). Pale salmon colour. Delicate nose. The palate has lovely peppery fruit along with some fresh plum and currant flavours. Complex and savoury, this is a very smart wine. (Pinot)

De Bortoli – Rose – La Boheme – Act Two – Pinot 2010 (16.5). Pale salmon colour. Again, savoury with hints of spice. The flavours are quite neutral and the slightly salty, tangy finish begs for some food. (Pinot)

Victory Point – Rose – 2010 (16.3). Lifted red strawberry fruits here. The palate is generous and relatively dry. The crunchy acidity adds to the texture.