Category Archives: New Release – Wine Reviews

Deen De Bortoli

Reviewed: 1 October 2012

Over the last few years, there are a couple of wineries have consistently produced high quality wines at all price points. This includes the likes of Hardys, Houghton, Mc Williams, Penfolds and De Bortoli. Whether it is $10 supermarket specials or limited release premium wines, these wineries consistently produce excellent wines.

I had the opportunity to look at the ever reliable Deen De Bortoli reds recently in various blind tastings and the current releases continues the tradition of over-delivering on the value proposition. These wines are often available for around $10 per bottle!

My picks of the range are as follows.

Reviewed

De Bortoli – Cabernet Sauvignon – Deen – Vat 9 – 2010 (17.5+). Really deep smelling fruit that belies the meager price that this will sell for. Blackcurrant, cedar, mint and menthol flood the palate. The good quality fruit has been very well handled and there is a long and textured finish. The persistence of the fruit flavours really is a standout. Delicious now, this will actually age well in the short term.

De Bortoli – Durif – Deen – Vat 1 – 2010 (17.5). Refined and elegant, this is dense and mouth-filling, but the wine is in no way overblown. Excellent structure and mouth feel with a vibrant finish on the palate. The fruit is subdued, so food would sit really well with this. Superbly made, modern and interesting.

De Bortoli – Petit Verdot – Deen – Vat 4 – 2009 (16.7). Cordial like fruit aromas that remind me of strawberry jam. Sweet red berry fruit on the palate, with firm, drying tannins to close. An interesting wine with dense and quite powerful fruit.

Argentinean Imports

Reviewed: 1 September 2012

Rob Lurie and Brad Ross (Redwax) focus on importing wines from Mendoza in Argentina. Specifically, Malbec based wines are the basis of their portfolio.

The wines are notable for possessing quality fruit and for being well made. Whilst not cheap, the wines are worth trying as they offer a departure from shiraz and cabernet, yet possess dense, ripe fruit and modern winemaking. Of the four wines we tried, the Gran Reserve is my pick. Well made, yet deliciously different. The Prestige pips it for quality, but needs years to reach its best.

For stock, try La Vigna in Mt Lawley, De Vine Cellars, Steve’s Fine Wine and Swanbourne Cellars.

Reviewed

Mairena – Malbec/Bonarda – Reserve – 2008 (17.4). Dense fruit on the nose showing licorice and earthy notes, with a spicy lift. The palate has chocolate, mocha, dense fruit, spice and licorice over chewy tannins. There is good texture and length and the finish is rich and warm with a savoury edge.

Carinae – Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon – Brigitte – 2009 (16.8). Different. This is earthy, textured and long, though the fruit characters tend towards cherry and sour plum. Really needs food to bring out its best, but there is good depth and the finish is mouth-watering. The tannins are more textural and the oak adds depth. Fun wine.

Carinae – Malbec – Gran Reserve – 2008 (17.9). Sweet fruit and oak on the nose, this is a very attractive wine. Dense, plush and mouth-filling, the fruit is ripe and well suited to the new oak treatment. The tannins are prodigious, yet fine and really drive the finish. Length is a feature, as is the mouth-feel. The fruit and oak quality are obvious, and the mouth-feel excellent.

Carinae – Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Prestige – 2008 (18+). Dense notes of berry, chocolate and cherry. More refined and elegant than the Gran Reserve, with gentle, ripe and subtle fruit on the nose. Long and fine, the palate reflects the quality fruit, though the tannins and acid keep it in check at the moment. A very good wine that shows elegance and class.

New Release – Mixed

Reviewed: 21 April 2012

Some solid wines here, and many worth a try.

If you are looking for something with a bit of age, then check out the wines from Galafrey. Kim Tyrer has made these wines available for her friends at Fine Wine Club at bargain prices. The 2009 riesling (which is very good) is $120 per case and the 2003 shiraz (a solid wine) is $100 per case

Reviewed

Galafrey – Riesling – Dry Land Reserve – 2009 (17.5+). Intense lime juice over floral fruit. A bright wine that, whilst fresh and vibrant, is just starting to get the viscosity and texture that comes with age. Seamless finish that has real persistence. Minerals and flint on a finish that appears not quite bone-dry and better for it.

Windows Estate – Petit Verdot – 2010 (17.5). Dense and earthy, this is a traditional dry red in style. Medium-bodied, with good depth of flavour, this is a wine that really grew on me. Some new oak adds opulence.

Kangarilla Road – Sangiovese – 2010 (17.3). Has everything in place, but this is hard work right now. Cherry and plum fruit, licorice, tar and roses too. Good length and real potential, given the dense fruit and good texture.

Running With Bulls – Tempranillo – Barossa – 2011 (17.2). I like this more than its sister wine from Wrattonbully. Savoury (coffee and cinnamon), supple fruit with slightly grippy tannins adding freshness and texture to the finish. Well made and a good drink, with an almost sea breeze freshness on the finish. Would really benefit from some savoury food.

Clairault – Petit Verdot – Cellar Release – 2010 (17). Intense nose that shows quite herbal fruit characters. Long and savoury, with lovely tannins and tight oak, this is more about structure than fruit right now. Bordeaux-like, I like it, but it wont appeal to all.

Kingston Estate – Petit Verdot – 2010 (17). Lovely perfumed nose up front. This has white pepper, spice, savoury tannins and good oak use. There is souring cherry fruit that really livens the palate. Lingers.

Galafrey – Merlot – Dry Grown – 2008 (16.8). Very plump and juicy, with overt fruit, this is made in an approachable style. Ripe and fleshy, this is a good early consumption red with enough power to carry substantial food.

Calmel & JJoseph – Shiraz/Grenache/Carignan – Faugeres – 2009 (16.5). Light and fresh nose and palate that has plenty of ripe fruit. This wine is uncomplicated by oak and is really juicy. Excellent short term drinking and a bargain. Received high marks from one judge and could easily be mistaken for a quality Cotes Du Rhone. A bargain at $12.99 from Get Wines Direct.

Galafrey – Shiraz – Frankland River – 2003 (16.5). Touch dusty, but there is a core of ripe fruit, showing licorice, chocolate and plum, with a hint of menthol. Although this has started to show the benefits of age, the acids and tannins are still softening. A big wine that is fully aged, with a touch of volatility on a finish that is starting to dry out. An affordable way to try an aged wine as this is being cleared out by the winery.

Temple Bruer – Montepulciano – Preservative Free and Organic – 2011 (16.5). Fresh, juicy, grapey and plump, with some savoury characters too. The palate is fresh, with more of the plump fruit. Simple and uncomplicated, but perfectly sound. Modern and well made, this is a very good preservative-free wine.

New Release – Mixed Reds

Reviewed – 24 May 2011

I always find these tastings difficult, as there is no textbook style that I can use to compare the wines against. Having said that, the fundamentals do not change. Quality fruit and wine-making combine to make enjoyable wines.

Of the wines to make it to this page, the Henry’s Seven from Henschke and the Butcher’s Block from Turkey Flat are my picks. They may not be quite as good as their more expensive stable mates, however they are both delicious and make for great short to medium term drinking.

On a separate note, Tony Ingle, Chief Winemaker at Angoves was in town with Richard Angove to showcase their new super premium wines. Angove is releasing two new wines. One is a single vineyard Barossa shiraz/grenache and the other is a straight shiraz called The Medhyk. Both wines are nothing short of spectacular. I have not reviewed them her as they were not tasted blind, but both would have scored 18 – 18.5 easily.

These will be available later this year in very small quantities. At around $50, they wont be cheap, but if you see one on a wine list or in an independent retailer, they are definitely worth trying.

Reviewed

Henschke – Grenache/Mouvedre/Shiraz – Johann’s Garden – 2009 (17.8). Denser and less open than many here. Savoury characters to the fore. Rich and ripe fruit that is of excellent quality. Long and supple finish. Whilst the alcohol is just evident, it does not detract from the enjoyment. Give it a few years or a big steak.

Henschke – Shiraz/Grenache/Viognier/Mouvedre – Henry’s Seven – 2009 (17.5). Again, lovely perfume on the nose. This is a pretty wine that is very aromatic and vibrant. Lovely mouth-feel and texture too. This is only medium bodied, but it is a very good wine that is drinking a treat now, yet will take a few years bottle age too.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Haycutters – 2008 (17.5). More perfume and fragrance compared to everything else here. Generous fruit that is ripe, mouth-filling and plush. There is a touch of plum and smoke to the fleshy fruit. This would make a great everyday red this winter. (Vintage Cellars exclusive).

Turkey Flat – Shiraz/Grenache/Mouvedre – Butchers Block – 2009 (17.5). Sweet ripe fruit here. Lovely mouth-feel and texture, though initially, it appears quite angular. There is licorice, spice, cedar and dark fruits. Very silky and with excellent length. A smart wine that will provide drinking pleasure over the next 5-8 years.

Higher Plane – Merlot – 2008 (17.3). Deeper colour and denser fruit on the nose. Dusty fruit, plum, cherry, tar and leather. Really opens up to show pretty fruit. A good effort.

Ferngrove – Malbec – King – 2008 (17+). Vibrant colour. Tannic and firm at first and the fruit is hidden by the oak and fruit tannins. Builds in the mouth and should improve in the medium term. Requires a bit of faith but should be very good. Really opened up to show lovely mulberry fruit and subtle spice.

Turkey Flat – Grenache – 2007 (16.8). We do not see many straight grenaches on the market, which is a shame. Think perfume and spice, but also some medicinal characters that characterised the finish. Old vine fruit that is ripe and dense. Oak adds to the finish.

Crittenden Estate – Sangiovese – Pinocchio – 2010 (16.7). A better combination of savoury notes, with some ripe fruit flavours over the top. Uncomplicated, but enjoyable. Have it with a bowl of pasta. One panelist described this as sexy, floral and elegant.

New Release Sauvignon Blanc and Rose

4 February 2011

Question. What is a good rose supposed to taste like?

Answer. Nobody knows!

The Rose revival continues in Australia, but the question is… who is drinking them? It is very challenging to walk into a bottle shop and choose a rose that you are unfamiliar with as there is no way of knowing what it will taste like.

If you buy a bottle of riesling, then you expect it o taste like riesling. With rose, there are so many styles that it gets confusing. In this tasting, we looked at a number of wines that ranged from sugary fruit-bombs to delicate, pale and dry wines. To me the wines from De Bortoli were the stand-out, as they seam perfectly suited to a plate of antipasto.

The sauvignon blancs were also hit and miss. They were all Australian and again, the styles varied.

It is worth pointing out that this tasting had a high attrition rate, with many wines not making it to these pages.

Tasted

White

Deviation Road – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Grassy and slightly savoury nose. The palate is more straightforward, with lovely zesty acidity. There are hints of tropical fruit on a refreshing finish. Points for being a good drink.

Wicks Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Quite oily and textured nose with aromas in the gooseberry/grassy spectrum. There is also a mealy almond character. The palate is dense and textured, with more secondary characters. A touch of viscosity in the mouth adds to the finish.

Sarantos – Sauvignon Blanc – Soft Press – 2010 (16.5). Quite vibrant and floral. Long and crisp, this has texture and spice on the palate.

Xabregas – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (16.5). Initially closed, but develops some floral notes. The palate is bursting with vibrant fruit. There is plenty of fresh acidity and a hint of residual sugar to balance the finish. Will be better in six months due to the relatively high CO2 and a touch of sulphur. (One panelist felt this was more like a riesling in style).

De Bortoli – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon/Rolle – La Boheme – Act One – 2010 (16.4). Almond meal on the nose. The palate is lean, dry and crisp. A good drink.

Rymill – Sauvignon Blanc – The Yearling – 2010 (16.2). Grassy/herbaceous nose that follows through to the palate. A firm finish suggests a relatively serious wine that should improve with some time in the bottle.

Rose

De Bortoli – Rose – 2010 (16.7). Pale salmon colour. Delicate nose. The palate has lovely peppery fruit along with some fresh plum and currant flavours. Complex and savoury, this is a very smart wine. (Pinot)

De Bortoli – Rose – La Boheme – Act Two – Pinot 2010 (16.5). Pale salmon colour. Again, savoury with hints of spice. The flavours are quite neutral and the slightly salty, tangy finish begs for some food. (Pinot)

Victory Point – Rose – 2010 (16.3). Lifted red strawberry fruits here. The palate is generous and relatively dry. The crunchy acidity adds to the texture.

Mixed Reds – New Release

31 January 2011

There appears to be a trend towards blending sangiovese with other varieties in Australia at the moment. Initially, I questioned why the winemakers were doing this, but I realised that this is not without a couple of precedents.

Some of the best red wines ever made in Australia have been blends of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. Even Penfolds Grange has some cabernet in the blend in most years. Yet in Bordeaux, (the home of cabernet) the use of shiraz is not permitted and in Hermitage, (the home of shiraz), cabernet is prohibited.

In Italy, many of the most exciting wines of the last 15 years have been blends of sangiovese with cabernet sauvignon or merlot, e.g. Sassicia and Solaia. These wines have had to carry the most basic label as these blends contravened the laws governing what could be called Chianti. Ironically, they quickly became highly sought after and demanded higher prices than almost any wines wearing the Chianti classification.

So to the tasting…

Tasted

Juniper Crossing – Tempranillo – 2009 (17.5). Dense and almost impenetrable. Chewy and textured, but the fruit is very shy right now. The finish is fine and the tannins are well integrated. Should improve.

Stella Bella – Sangiovese/Cabernet – 2008 (17). Sweet and succulent fruit, with some vanillin oak notes in the background. The palate is fine and silky with savoury fruit characters to the fore. The finish is very long and the silky tannins work well. Chewy close and drying tannins acknowledge the wines of Chianti.

Voyager Estate – Merlot – 2007 (17). Aromas of cedar and menthol over the dark fruits. Some ripe fruit notes, but the middle palate is lean and drying. Quality fruit builds in the mouth and the fine tannins balance out the finish. Well made, and should develop for a few years.

Drakesbrook – Cabernet Franc – 2009 (16.8). Plump and fleshy, this has vibrant sweet fruit. Mulberry, red berries, blackcurrant and plum all coat the tongue. The finish is soft yet there are persistent fine tannins to keep it fresh. Good current drinking and better than a quaff.

Penfolds – Sangiovese – Cellar Reserve – 2006 (16.6). Again, has sweet fruit and oak on the nose. Cedar, spice and firm tannins dominate the palate. A modern wine that needs some time to improve, though you can see hints of the Penfolds style in the wine. Needs food.

Tintara – Sangiovese – 2007 (16.5). Savour, souring nose, with a palate that matches. This is long and fine, but is in no way dominated by the fruit. Authentic style.

Norton – Malbec – Reserva – 2007 (16.5). A powerful wine that is dense, ripe and textured. The savoury edge to the finish keeps the balance and the firm tannins need to soften somewhat. Will be interesting to see how this develops. At under $15, this is worth a punt.

Talisman – Zinfandel – 2009 (16.4). Sweet, rich and ripe fruit. A powerful wine, with plenty of ripe fruit and fine tannins. The only question is when would you drink it.

Monte La Sarda – Grenache – 2009 (16). Quite deep and dense, there are licorice, tar and savoury characters. Souring finish retains freshness, but lacks the depth of fruit of the best here. An interesting drink. (Synthetic closure – I would like to try another bottle to see if the fruit expresses better).

Bird in Hand – Merlot – 2009 (15.8). Forward and almost jammy. A big wine with plenty of sunshine in the glass. No rough edges, but lacks real interest.

Talisman – Malbec – 2009 (15.8). Seductive nose that is soft, round and generous. Nice plummy fruit to a good quaff.

Guigal

9 August 2010

Guigal is to France as Penfolds is to Australia. Both produce some of the greatest shiraz based wines in the world. I would go as far as to say that between them, they are probably responsible for the greatest wines based on shiraz.

In Australia, Grange and Hill of Grace are at the pinacle. In France, the single vineyard wines of Guigal are the ultimate expression of shiraz. La Turque, La Landonne and La Mouline come not from Hermitage, but rather are the ultimate expression of Cote Rotie. In recent times, Chateau d’Ampuis has rivalled the more famous three for quality. Be warned, these wines are not cheap.

Like Penfolds, Guigal produces many wines at various price points to cover all the consumer’s needs. At the affordable end of the spectrum is the generic Cotes du Rhones. These are wines that rely on purity of fruit for quality and show no oak influence. From here the wines range up in price commensurate with the appellation that they come from. Experience has shown that even the base wines can age well. (I am still drinking the 1995 Cotes du Rhones in my cellar, and it is a very satisfying drink).

According to Brett Crittenden (their Brand Ambassador in Australia), the upcoming vintages are going to be even better. He explained that in 2006, the company commissioned new cellars that can process the millions of litres of wines that are produced each year. Up until then, the company bought wine from other producers to blend up into their Cotes du Rhone.

When it comes to recommendations, this is an unusual case of more = more. The most expensive wines are also the best. My pick is the 2005 d’Ampuis. At $300 per bottle, this is frightfully expensive, but it is half the price of the other single vineyard reds!

NB: This was not a blind tasting so take the points with a grain of salt.

Reviewed

Guigal – Cotes du Rhone (Blanc) – 2009 (16.8). Quite a delicate and refreshing nose with floral and tropical fruits. The palate is defined by an oiliness and viscosity on the finish. Will take food well.

Guigal – Saint Joseph (Blanc) – 2006 (17.2). This has more structure than the previous wine. The texture is what stands out here. Oak influence plus a lees character add to the creamy palate. A long and subtle wine.

Guigal – Condrieu – La Doriane – 2007 (17.7+). This has lovely apricot, pear and spice tones on the nose. Peachy stonefruit and musk lead the palate, but this is a powerful wine with excellent length to the tight and restrained finish. There is some almond meal to close. Whilst powerful, this is much finer than the typical Australian equivalent. Will benefit from a year or two in the cellar. (Viognier)

Guigal – Cotes du Rhone (Rouge) – 2006 (16.8). Fresh cherries and spice on the nose. The palate is soft, fresh and quite plush. Fine fruit tannins and acidity keep the fruit in check. History suggests that a few years in the cellar will be of benefit.

Guigal – Chateau Neuf de Pape – 2005 (17.5). Much more concentrated with real depth of fruit. The palate is quite chewy, with cherry, tar, spice and licorice. This is a fine wine that will score higher in a few years.

Guigal – Crozes Hermitage – 2005 (17+). The first wine in the line-up that had shiraz fruit characters as the dominant aroma. This is quite textured, with spice and herbs on the palate. There are cher.ry fruit characters and a pleasant tarriness to the finish. Medium bodied. (Shiraz)

Guigal – St Joseph – 2004 (17). More structured than the Crozes, with earthy characters to the fore. The palate is structured, with spice and an earthiness to the fruit characters. The finish is soft, elegant and supple. Drinks well now. (Shiraz)

Guigal – St Joseph – Vignes De l’Hospice – 2004 (17.7). A step up in terms of fruit expression. Vibrant red fruits overlay tar, licorice and spice. This has fantastic cool fruit characters with concentrated white pepper and very good structure. Sympathetic oak complements the finish on a silky and quite delicious wine. Now to 8 yrs. (Shiraz)

Guigal – St Joseph – Vignes De l’Hospice – 2006 (18.5). Very fresh in comparison to the 2004, with lovely primary red fruits on the nose. The palate is flooded by red fruits, yet the finish is really silky. Seamless, long and very fine, the fruit coats the tongue and evolves. Whilst the oak and tannins suppress the finish a little right now, this is an excellent wine that deserves 5 – 10 years in the cellar. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – Chateau d’Ampuis – 2004 (18). Much greater density than some here, this is a very structured wine that is still closed. The palate is dense, and just starting to develop some leather and chocolate fruit characters. Not that accessible. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – Chateau d’Ampuis – 2005 (18.5). Quite closed, but develops perfume with air. This is really enticing and alluring. Whilst tight and closed, this has fantastic fruit expression. The finish is dominated by very fine tannins and quality oak, but these are not aggressive. A very fine wine with a long future. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – La Turque – 2004 (18.8). Really only hints at its potential. This is a massively proportioned wine that displays an amazing depth of fruit. Despite all this the wine remains elegant and refined. The length of this wine is incredible, with seamless mouth-feel and perfect balance. Amazingly, this is only 13% alcohol and demonstrates that a stunning, powerful wine can be made without using over-ripe fruit. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – La Landonne – 2005 (18.5). Fresher, and displaying more pepper than the La Turque. The palate is much more youthful, with bright, vibrant fruit and a long finish. Quite closed initially, this built significant richness and pretty cherry fruit with air. Needs time to show its best. (Shiraz)

Pre Release – Mixed

Reviewed: 12 December 2011

I had a call from my good friend John Jens asking for help. In short, he needed to assess some imported wines quickly to see if it was worth buying some of the remaining stock. No problems I said, so I threw in a few locals to keep the French honest and we were in business.

This turned out to be an excellent tasting. The overall quality of the wines was very high. The highlight was a bracket of Southern Rhone wines that should be available in Perth at some point in the new year. The Chateauneuf-du-Pape were both excellent and the Lirac should be good value. Definitely wines to watch.

As most of these wines are not available yet, they have not made it in to my wines of the week.

Reviewed

Chardonnay

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Meursault-Charmes – 2009 (18+). Interesting nose that is attractively perfumed but very fine, showing grapefruit, lees and struck match minerality. Lean fruit, but there is excellent penetration on the palate, building real depth on the finish . The persistence is admirable and the finish quite seamless. Plenty of potential and sure to do well over the next five years.

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Puligny-Montrachet – 2009 (18). More obvious fruit (honeysuckle and lemon) in another bigger style. Power and intensity combine with racy acidity to provide a thrilling palate. The finish is very long, with great persistence. The wine has complex mineral notes to close and is, again, quite seamless. Ultimately, a whisker behind the Meursault-Charmes, but better drinking and better value now.

Victory Point – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.5+). Creamy nose, with a lean tropical fruit note running down the middle. Quite mealy with mineral aromas and a touch of flint. Very powerful fruit on the palate, this has it all. Peach, nectarine and lovely texture with some oak char to close. There is good length and balance to the finish. This is a bigger style that really works. Drink over the next few years.

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Prelude – 2010 (17.5). Tight and reserved, this is just a baby. There is quality fruit that hints at pineapple, as well as seamless oak that caresses the finish. Without the ultimate complexity of the best here, this is a refined wine of some appeal.

Reds

Alain Jaume – Grenache Blend – Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Vieux Terron – 2009 (18.5). Fragrant, spicy and perfumed nose showing orange peel, tar, rose water and sappy acidity. This is finer and better balanced than the Les Origines, making it easier to drink now. An enjoyable wine showing complex plum and cherry, with hints of chocolate and licorice on the palate. A lovely wine with excellent length to close.

Domaine Grand Veneur – Grenache Blend – Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Les Origines – 2009 (18). Another lovely nose here. Cedar, spice, plum, cherry, tar and roses all come to the fore on the nose. The palate is textured and spicy, with plenty of chocolate fruit. The acid notes are a bit high now, but this should settle. Delicious, the savoury finish really suites the wine.

Domaine Grand Veneur – Grenache Blend – Lirac – Clos Sixte – 2009 (17.5). Fresher, denser and more alive than the Luberon. Tar, plum, cherry and spice on the nose. Fragrant and very spicy, this is a very enjoyable wine. The palate is full and fleshy, and the acidity carries the palate well. Juicy, succulent and delicious, with drying tannins on the finish. Made by Alain Jaume & fils.

Domaine Christophe Savoy – Gammay – Chiroubles – Cuvee Loic – 2010 (17). More body and density than the village wines tried here, this is quite lovely. Fresh red berry fruit is evident, but this has texture and a lovely mouth-feel too, courtesy of ripe tannins. Savoury to close, this would be great with food.

Ludmila & Sylvian Morey – Grenache Blend – Luberon – Bastide du Claux – 2007 (16.2). Lovely, seductive nose. Savoury, souring acidity, plumy fruit. Relatively simple, but satisfying.

Other Reds – New Release

Reviewed: 25 October 2011

Not many of the wines made it through to this review, but the wines that did are all worthy of a look. The Angove – Butterfly Ridge is nothing more than a pleasant quaff. At RRP of $6.99 however, this is a great entry level wine.

The Grant Burge is a very good wine that, whilst not cheap, is good value all the same. Finally, The Hidden Cave by Devil’s Lair is a new label to me, but the wine is very smart.

Reviewed

Grant Burge – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – The Holy Trinity – 2008 (17.8). This wine has excellent (old vine?) fruit quality. The nose is packed with bright fruit, though there is a dusty/savoury note that adds complexity. The palate has ripe fruit that is not over done. Powerful, dense and rich, the length is very good. The palate is shut down by fine tannins, but this is a wine of some potential. Chocolate fruit with mulberry, cherry and cedary spice to close.

Devil’s Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Hidden Cave – 2010 (17.5). Pretty smart wine this. The cabernet fruit provides the structure and body to this wine, whilst the shiraz provides fruit lift on the finish and hints of plum and spice. Silky tannins and good length make this an excellent short term drinker. Round and soft palate.

Purple Hands Wines – Grenache – Old Vines – 2010 (17.5). Pretty wine, with floral aromas over subtle savoury notes. Really silky and fine, this has excellent length and persistence. The palate really goes on and on. Impressive, dense, old vine fruit with latent power.

Koltz – Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Etruscan – 2009 (17.2). Dense, though with some dusty, savoury notes that add a degree of authenticity. Cherry, plum and vibrant fruit with a long and savoury finish. This is smart, though relatively uncomplicated at the moment. Chewy texture to close and creamy oak adds to the finish.

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Koonunga Hill – Seventy Six – 2010 (17.2+). There is a core of sweet fruit running through the nose. Plum, strawberry and hints of vanilla courtesy of the oak. Chocolate fruit on the palate with fine, though firm, tannins to close and good texture. Smart wine that will benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Butterfly Ridge – 2010 (16.3). Fresh plum fruit that is simple yet appealing. Soft fruit with enough structure to keep the palate fresh. A well made commercial wine.

AP Birks – Wendouree 2008 Vintage

20 November 2010

Of the thousands of wines on the Australian market, there are a few truly great wineries/wines (both big and small). For example, Penfolds has Grange, Henshcke has Hill of Grace and Leeuwin has the Art Series Chardonnay. Then there is Wendouree.

The wines of Wendouree are, in my opinion, even more special. Yes, the quality of the wines is stunning, but it is the way that the Bradys go about things that sets them apart. Rather than selling their iconic wines to bottle-shops and restaurants, the wines are only available from the mailing list. The mailing list is closed however, so the only people who can buy the wines are their regular customers. This has prevented the price escalation and profiteering by retailers as seen with the likes of Grange.

At around $50 per bottle, the wines are not cheap, but their iconic status and sheer quality means that they are bargains all the same.

To celebrate the release of the 2008 vintage, The Wine and Food Society of Western Australia held a tasting of all the new release reds, (They also make a dessert wine). For many of us, this was a unique opportunity, as we tend to cellar the wines for many years, (as they deserve). We also tasted some back vintage wines to track their development. The results were spectacular!

If I had to make a generalisation, I would suggest that the blends are more approachable than the straight varietals when young, but all possessed elegance, combined with supple fruit that made them a joy to taste. There is, however, an extraordinarily fine tannin backbone running through the wines. The other fascinating observation was how the different blends compared. The malbec added both perfume and structure, whilst the Mataro (mouvedre) added lovely floral notes.

A special thanks to Lindsay Silbert for supplying the wines from the 1990s and to La Vigna for kindly hosting the tasting.

So to the tasting. In many ways, my points are irrelevant. The wines from 2008 were all fantastic. Whilst I had my preferences, they would all get a gold medal on their own. A word on vintage. It seems that Wendouree, like all single site wines, suffers from variations in vintage conditions and subsequent wine quality. My suggestion would be to drink the 2000 vintage while waiting for the best wines from the 1990s to fully mature.

Reviewed

(In order tasted)

Wendouree – Malbec – 2008 (18). Floral and very fragrant, with a touch of eucalypt. There is a firm seam of structured components running through the nose. The palate is silky and stylish, but the fine tannins present a striking backbone. Long and succulent fruit. Extraordinarily tight, yet very powerful fruit.

Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2008 (18.5). More minty cabernet fruit components to the nose. The palate is fresh and has juicy blackcurrant fruit. The balance of the wine is exceptional, with the malbec providing structure on the finish. A joy to drink.

Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.6). More fragrant than the blend. There are ripe red fruits with a touch of blackcurrant on the nose. The palate is again silky, but there are masses of extraordinarily fine fruit tannins on the finish. Length and texture are the key, as this is less approachable. Will be stunning.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Malbec – 2008 (18.3). Subtle shift to more black fruits and Plum. There is also cedary oak and lovely gentle spice. Silky and seductive , the balance is again a highlight. This will drink a touch earlier though will still last for many years.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro – 2008 (18.5). Wow. This is lovely. Perfumed and very pretty floral notes. The palate is textured, supple, subtle, very long and incredibly silky. Yes there is power, but this is slippery. Others commented on the balance and finesse, and the grippy tannins on the close.

Wendouree – Shiraz – 2008 (18.7). Plum and spice on the nose. Very tight and restrained, this develops mulberry, plum and cedar, with a touch of floral/citrus. The palate is full of finesse and subtlety, but it really needs 10 years to start to shine. The length of the palate is incredible and very youthful.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Malbec – 2005 (17.8). Quite structured. Floral characters, with a hint of aniseed. There is also menthol and Clare Valley mintiness. There is even a touch of eucalypt. This is a firm and structured wine that needs time. The length is superb, but the wine remains austere. Already showing development and generosity of fruit reflective of the vintage.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro – 2000 (17.7). Developed nose. Plum and mocha notes with a touch of licorice and cigar box. A lovely developed wine with coffee, spice and plums. The acid and tannins have softened enough to make for a good drink. Approaching peak drinking.

Wendouree – Cabernet/Malbec – 1997 (17). Quite green fruit characters, with some eucalypt, mint and a touch of herbs. The palate is firm and less generous. The balance remains but it is a cooler style reflective of a difficult year.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro 1996 (18.3). Lovely nose with chocolate, coffee and red berries. The palate is still closed, but there is a generosity of fruit on the palate that is seductive. Surprisingly fresh, this is a remarkably youthful wine. Lovely drinking. Others noticed that the wine was deceptively intense and powerful.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Malbec – 1994 (18.6). Somewhat different nose. The malbec is more obvious here. The palate has coffee and chocolate fruit with dense plum and licorice. Quite developed, this is approaching its peak. Tremendous length and depth to the palate. The silky texture is a highlight. Others commented that this really has everything. Smooth, and good drinking, this will still develop.

Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 1991 (18.5). Remarkably restrained. There are classic cabernet notes of mint, red fruits and blackcurrant. This is amazingly youthful! The palate is dense and ripe. The berry fruit is intense and fresh and the tannins are firm. Develops a touch of leather on the souring finish.