Category Archives: New Release – Wine Reviews

Mixed Reds – New Release

31 January 2011

There appears to be a trend towards blending sangiovese with other varieties in Australia at the moment. Initially, I questioned why the winemakers were doing this, but I realised that this is not without a couple of precedents.

Some of the best red wines ever made in Australia have been blends of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. Even Penfolds Grange has some cabernet in the blend in most years. Yet in Bordeaux, (the home of cabernet) the use of shiraz is not permitted and in Hermitage, (the home of shiraz), cabernet is prohibited.

In Italy, many of the most exciting wines of the last 15 years have been blends of sangiovese with cabernet sauvignon or merlot, e.g. Sassicia and Solaia. These wines have had to carry the most basic label as these blends contravened the laws governing what could be called Chianti. Ironically, they quickly became highly sought after and demanded higher prices than almost any wines wearing the Chianti classification.

So to the tasting…

Tasted

Juniper Crossing – Tempranillo – 2009 (17.5). Dense and almost impenetrable. Chewy and textured, but the fruit is very shy right now. The finish is fine and the tannins are well integrated. Should improve.

Stella Bella – Sangiovese/Cabernet – 2008 (17). Sweet and succulent fruit, with some vanillin oak notes in the background. The palate is fine and silky with savoury fruit characters to the fore. The finish is very long and the silky tannins work well. Chewy close and drying tannins acknowledge the wines of Chianti.

Voyager Estate – Merlot – 2007 (17). Aromas of cedar and menthol over the dark fruits. Some ripe fruit notes, but the middle palate is lean and drying. Quality fruit builds in the mouth and the fine tannins balance out the finish. Well made, and should develop for a few years.

Drakesbrook – Cabernet Franc – 2009 (16.8). Plump and fleshy, this has vibrant sweet fruit. Mulberry, red berries, blackcurrant and plum all coat the tongue. The finish is soft yet there are persistent fine tannins to keep it fresh. Good current drinking and better than a quaff.

Penfolds – Sangiovese – Cellar Reserve – 2006 (16.6). Again, has sweet fruit and oak on the nose. Cedar, spice and firm tannins dominate the palate. A modern wine that needs some time to improve, though you can see hints of the Penfolds style in the wine. Needs food.

Tintara – Sangiovese – 2007 (16.5). Savour, souring nose, with a palate that matches. This is long and fine, but is in no way dominated by the fruit. Authentic style.

Norton – Malbec – Reserva – 2007 (16.5). A powerful wine that is dense, ripe and textured. The savoury edge to the finish keeps the balance and the firm tannins need to soften somewhat. Will be interesting to see how this develops. At under $15, this is worth a punt.

Talisman – Zinfandel – 2009 (16.4). Sweet, rich and ripe fruit. A powerful wine, with plenty of ripe fruit and fine tannins. The only question is when would you drink it.

Monte La Sarda – Grenache – 2009 (16). Quite deep and dense, there are licorice, tar and savoury characters. Souring finish retains freshness, but lacks the depth of fruit of the best here. An interesting drink. (Synthetic closure – I would like to try another bottle to see if the fruit expresses better).

Bird in Hand – Merlot – 2009 (15.8). Forward and almost jammy. A big wine with plenty of sunshine in the glass. No rough edges, but lacks real interest.

Talisman – Malbec – 2009 (15.8). Seductive nose that is soft, round and generous. Nice plummy fruit to a good quaff.

Guigal

9 August 2010

Guigal is to France as Penfolds is to Australia. Both produce some of the greatest shiraz based wines in the world. I would go as far as to say that between them, they are probably responsible for the greatest wines based on shiraz.

In Australia, Grange and Hill of Grace are at the pinacle. In France, the single vineyard wines of Guigal are the ultimate expression of shiraz. La Turque, La Landonne and La Mouline come not from Hermitage, but rather are the ultimate expression of Cote Rotie. In recent times, Chateau d’Ampuis has rivalled the more famous three for quality. Be warned, these wines are not cheap.

Like Penfolds, Guigal produces many wines at various price points to cover all the consumer’s needs. At the affordable end of the spectrum is the generic Cotes du Rhones. These are wines that rely on purity of fruit for quality and show no oak influence. From here the wines range up in price commensurate with the appellation that they come from. Experience has shown that even the base wines can age well. (I am still drinking the 1995 Cotes du Rhones in my cellar, and it is a very satisfying drink).

According to Brett Crittenden (their Brand Ambassador in Australia), the upcoming vintages are going to be even better. He explained that in 2006, the company commissioned new cellars that can process the millions of litres of wines that are produced each year. Up until then, the company bought wine from other producers to blend up into their Cotes du Rhone.

When it comes to recommendations, this is an unusual case of more = more. The most expensive wines are also the best. My pick is the 2005 d’Ampuis. At $300 per bottle, this is frightfully expensive, but it is half the price of the other single vineyard reds!

NB: This was not a blind tasting so take the points with a grain of salt.

Reviewed

Guigal – Cotes du Rhone (Blanc) – 2009 (16.8). Quite a delicate and refreshing nose with floral and tropical fruits. The palate is defined by an oiliness and viscosity on the finish. Will take food well.

Guigal – Saint Joseph (Blanc) – 2006 (17.2). This has more structure than the previous wine. The texture is what stands out here. Oak influence plus a lees character add to the creamy palate. A long and subtle wine.

Guigal – Condrieu – La Doriane – 2007 (17.7+). This has lovely apricot, pear and spice tones on the nose. Peachy stonefruit and musk lead the palate, but this is a powerful wine with excellent length to the tight and restrained finish. There is some almond meal to close. Whilst powerful, this is much finer than the typical Australian equivalent. Will benefit from a year or two in the cellar. (Viognier)

Guigal – Cotes du Rhone (Rouge) – 2006 (16.8). Fresh cherries and spice on the nose. The palate is soft, fresh and quite plush. Fine fruit tannins and acidity keep the fruit in check. History suggests that a few years in the cellar will be of benefit.

Guigal – Chateau Neuf de Pape – 2005 (17.5). Much more concentrated with real depth of fruit. The palate is quite chewy, with cherry, tar, spice and licorice. This is a fine wine that will score higher in a few years.

Guigal – Crozes Hermitage – 2005 (17+). The first wine in the line-up that had shiraz fruit characters as the dominant aroma. This is quite textured, with spice and herbs on the palate. There are cher.ry fruit characters and a pleasant tarriness to the finish. Medium bodied. (Shiraz)

Guigal – St Joseph – 2004 (17). More structured than the Crozes, with earthy characters to the fore. The palate is structured, with spice and an earthiness to the fruit characters. The finish is soft, elegant and supple. Drinks well now. (Shiraz)

Guigal – St Joseph – Vignes De l’Hospice – 2004 (17.7). A step up in terms of fruit expression. Vibrant red fruits overlay tar, licorice and spice. This has fantastic cool fruit characters with concentrated white pepper and very good structure. Sympathetic oak complements the finish on a silky and quite delicious wine. Now to 8 yrs. (Shiraz)

Guigal – St Joseph – Vignes De l’Hospice – 2006 (18.5). Very fresh in comparison to the 2004, with lovely primary red fruits on the nose. The palate is flooded by red fruits, yet the finish is really silky. Seamless, long and very fine, the fruit coats the tongue and evolves. Whilst the oak and tannins suppress the finish a little right now, this is an excellent wine that deserves 5 – 10 years in the cellar. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – Chateau d’Ampuis – 2004 (18). Much greater density than some here, this is a very structured wine that is still closed. The palate is dense, and just starting to develop some leather and chocolate fruit characters. Not that accessible. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – Chateau d’Ampuis – 2005 (18.5). Quite closed, but develops perfume with air. This is really enticing and alluring. Whilst tight and closed, this has fantastic fruit expression. The finish is dominated by very fine tannins and quality oak, but these are not aggressive. A very fine wine with a long future. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – La Turque – 2004 (18.8). Really only hints at its potential. This is a massively proportioned wine that displays an amazing depth of fruit. Despite all this the wine remains elegant and refined. The length of this wine is incredible, with seamless mouth-feel and perfect balance. Amazingly, this is only 13% alcohol and demonstrates that a stunning, powerful wine can be made without using over-ripe fruit. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – La Landonne – 2005 (18.5). Fresher, and displaying more pepper than the La Turque. The palate is much more youthful, with bright, vibrant fruit and a long finish. Quite closed initially, this built significant richness and pretty cherry fruit with air. Needs time to show its best. (Shiraz)

Pre Release – Mixed

Reviewed: 12 December 2011

I had a call from my good friend John Jens asking for help. In short, he needed to assess some imported wines quickly to see if it was worth buying some of the remaining stock. No problems I said, so I threw in a few locals to keep the French honest and we were in business.

This turned out to be an excellent tasting. The overall quality of the wines was very high. The highlight was a bracket of Southern Rhone wines that should be available in Perth at some point in the new year. The Chateauneuf-du-Pape were both excellent and the Lirac should be good value. Definitely wines to watch.

As most of these wines are not available yet, they have not made it in to my wines of the week.

Reviewed

Chardonnay

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Meursault-Charmes – 2009 (18+). Interesting nose that is attractively perfumed but very fine, showing grapefruit, lees and struck match minerality. Lean fruit, but there is excellent penetration on the palate, building real depth on the finish . The persistence is admirable and the finish quite seamless. Plenty of potential and sure to do well over the next five years.

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Puligny-Montrachet – 2009 (18). More obvious fruit (honeysuckle and lemon) in another bigger style. Power and intensity combine with racy acidity to provide a thrilling palate. The finish is very long, with great persistence. The wine has complex mineral notes to close and is, again, quite seamless. Ultimately, a whisker behind the Meursault-Charmes, but better drinking and better value now.

Victory Point – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.5+). Creamy nose, with a lean tropical fruit note running down the middle. Quite mealy with mineral aromas and a touch of flint. Very powerful fruit on the palate, this has it all. Peach, nectarine and lovely texture with some oak char to close. There is good length and balance to the finish. This is a bigger style that really works. Drink over the next few years.

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Prelude – 2010 (17.5). Tight and reserved, this is just a baby. There is quality fruit that hints at pineapple, as well as seamless oak that caresses the finish. Without the ultimate complexity of the best here, this is a refined wine of some appeal.

Reds

Alain Jaume – Grenache Blend – Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Vieux Terron – 2009 (18.5). Fragrant, spicy and perfumed nose showing orange peel, tar, rose water and sappy acidity. This is finer and better balanced than the Les Origines, making it easier to drink now. An enjoyable wine showing complex plum and cherry, with hints of chocolate and licorice on the palate. A lovely wine with excellent length to close.

Domaine Grand Veneur – Grenache Blend – Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Les Origines – 2009 (18). Another lovely nose here. Cedar, spice, plum, cherry, tar and roses all come to the fore on the nose. The palate is textured and spicy, with plenty of chocolate fruit. The acid notes are a bit high now, but this should settle. Delicious, the savoury finish really suites the wine.

Domaine Grand Veneur – Grenache Blend – Lirac – Clos Sixte – 2009 (17.5). Fresher, denser and more alive than the Luberon. Tar, plum, cherry and spice on the nose. Fragrant and very spicy, this is a very enjoyable wine. The palate is full and fleshy, and the acidity carries the palate well. Juicy, succulent and delicious, with drying tannins on the finish. Made by Alain Jaume & fils.

Domaine Christophe Savoy – Gammay – Chiroubles – Cuvee Loic – 2010 (17). More body and density than the village wines tried here, this is quite lovely. Fresh red berry fruit is evident, but this has texture and a lovely mouth-feel too, courtesy of ripe tannins. Savoury to close, this would be great with food.

Ludmila & Sylvian Morey – Grenache Blend – Luberon – Bastide du Claux – 2007 (16.2). Lovely, seductive nose. Savoury, souring acidity, plumy fruit. Relatively simple, but satisfying.

Other Reds – New Release

Reviewed: 25 October 2011

Not many of the wines made it through to this review, but the wines that did are all worthy of a look. The Angove – Butterfly Ridge is nothing more than a pleasant quaff. At RRP of $6.99 however, this is a great entry level wine.

The Grant Burge is a very good wine that, whilst not cheap, is good value all the same. Finally, The Hidden Cave by Devil’s Lair is a new label to me, but the wine is very smart.

Reviewed

Grant Burge – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – The Holy Trinity – 2008 (17.8). This wine has excellent (old vine?) fruit quality. The nose is packed with bright fruit, though there is a dusty/savoury note that adds complexity. The palate has ripe fruit that is not over done. Powerful, dense and rich, the length is very good. The palate is shut down by fine tannins, but this is a wine of some potential. Chocolate fruit with mulberry, cherry and cedary spice to close.

Devil’s Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Hidden Cave – 2010 (17.5). Pretty smart wine this. The cabernet fruit provides the structure and body to this wine, whilst the shiraz provides fruit lift on the finish and hints of plum and spice. Silky tannins and good length make this an excellent short term drinker. Round and soft palate.

Purple Hands Wines – Grenache – Old Vines – 2010 (17.5). Pretty wine, with floral aromas over subtle savoury notes. Really silky and fine, this has excellent length and persistence. The palate really goes on and on. Impressive, dense, old vine fruit with latent power.

Koltz – Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Etruscan – 2009 (17.2). Dense, though with some dusty, savoury notes that add a degree of authenticity. Cherry, plum and vibrant fruit with a long and savoury finish. This is smart, though relatively uncomplicated at the moment. Chewy texture to close and creamy oak adds to the finish.

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Koonunga Hill – Seventy Six – 2010 (17.2+). There is a core of sweet fruit running through the nose. Plum, strawberry and hints of vanilla courtesy of the oak. Chocolate fruit on the palate with fine, though firm, tannins to close and good texture. Smart wine that will benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Butterfly Ridge – 2010 (16.3). Fresh plum fruit that is simple yet appealing. Soft fruit with enough structure to keep the palate fresh. A well made commercial wine.

AP Birks – Wendouree 2008 Vintage

20 November 2010

Of the thousands of wines on the Australian market, there are a few truly great wineries/wines (both big and small). For example, Penfolds has Grange, Henshcke has Hill of Grace and Leeuwin has the Art Series Chardonnay. Then there is Wendouree.

The wines of Wendouree are, in my opinion, even more special. Yes, the quality of the wines is stunning, but it is the way that the Bradys go about things that sets them apart. Rather than selling their iconic wines to bottle-shops and restaurants, the wines are only available from the mailing list. The mailing list is closed however, so the only people who can buy the wines are their regular customers. This has prevented the price escalation and profiteering by retailers as seen with the likes of Grange.

At around $50 per bottle, the wines are not cheap, but their iconic status and sheer quality means that they are bargains all the same.

To celebrate the release of the 2008 vintage, The Wine and Food Society of Western Australia held a tasting of all the new release reds, (They also make a dessert wine). For many of us, this was a unique opportunity, as we tend to cellar the wines for many years, (as they deserve). We also tasted some back vintage wines to track their development. The results were spectacular!

If I had to make a generalisation, I would suggest that the blends are more approachable than the straight varietals when young, but all possessed elegance, combined with supple fruit that made them a joy to taste. There is, however, an extraordinarily fine tannin backbone running through the wines. The other fascinating observation was how the different blends compared. The malbec added both perfume and structure, whilst the Mataro (mouvedre) added lovely floral notes.

A special thanks to Lindsay Silbert for supplying the wines from the 1990s and to La Vigna for kindly hosting the tasting.

So to the tasting. In many ways, my points are irrelevant. The wines from 2008 were all fantastic. Whilst I had my preferences, they would all get a gold medal on their own. A word on vintage. It seems that Wendouree, like all single site wines, suffers from variations in vintage conditions and subsequent wine quality. My suggestion would be to drink the 2000 vintage while waiting for the best wines from the 1990s to fully mature.

Reviewed

(In order tasted)

Wendouree – Malbec – 2008 (18). Floral and very fragrant, with a touch of eucalypt. There is a firm seam of structured components running through the nose. The palate is silky and stylish, but the fine tannins present a striking backbone. Long and succulent fruit. Extraordinarily tight, yet very powerful fruit.

Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2008 (18.5). More minty cabernet fruit components to the nose. The palate is fresh and has juicy blackcurrant fruit. The balance of the wine is exceptional, with the malbec providing structure on the finish. A joy to drink.

Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.6). More fragrant than the blend. There are ripe red fruits with a touch of blackcurrant on the nose. The palate is again silky, but there are masses of extraordinarily fine fruit tannins on the finish. Length and texture are the key, as this is less approachable. Will be stunning.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Malbec – 2008 (18.3). Subtle shift to more black fruits and Plum. There is also cedary oak and lovely gentle spice. Silky and seductive , the balance is again a highlight. This will drink a touch earlier though will still last for many years.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro – 2008 (18.5). Wow. This is lovely. Perfumed and very pretty floral notes. The palate is textured, supple, subtle, very long and incredibly silky. Yes there is power, but this is slippery. Others commented on the balance and finesse, and the grippy tannins on the close.

Wendouree – Shiraz – 2008 (18.7). Plum and spice on the nose. Very tight and restrained, this develops mulberry, plum and cedar, with a touch of floral/citrus. The palate is full of finesse and subtlety, but it really needs 10 years to start to shine. The length of the palate is incredible and very youthful.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Malbec – 2005 (17.8). Quite structured. Floral characters, with a hint of aniseed. There is also menthol and Clare Valley mintiness. There is even a touch of eucalypt. This is a firm and structured wine that needs time. The length is superb, but the wine remains austere. Already showing development and generosity of fruit reflective of the vintage.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro – 2000 (17.7). Developed nose. Plum and mocha notes with a touch of licorice and cigar box. A lovely developed wine with coffee, spice and plums. The acid and tannins have softened enough to make for a good drink. Approaching peak drinking.

Wendouree – Cabernet/Malbec – 1997 (17). Quite green fruit characters, with some eucalypt, mint and a touch of herbs. The palate is firm and less generous. The balance remains but it is a cooler style reflective of a difficult year.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro 1996 (18.3). Lovely nose with chocolate, coffee and red berries. The palate is still closed, but there is a generosity of fruit on the palate that is seductive. Surprisingly fresh, this is a remarkably youthful wine. Lovely drinking. Others noticed that the wine was deceptively intense and powerful.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Malbec – 1994 (18.6). Somewhat different nose. The malbec is more obvious here. The palate has coffee and chocolate fruit with dense plum and licorice. Quite developed, this is approaching its peak. Tremendous length and depth to the palate. The silky texture is a highlight. Others commented that this really has everything. Smooth, and good drinking, this will still develop.

Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 1991 (18.5). Remarkably restrained. There are classic cabernet notes of mint, red fruits and blackcurrant. This is amazingly youthful! The palate is dense and ripe. The berry fruit is intense and fresh and the tannins are firm. Develops a touch of leather on the souring finish.

Giant Steps – 2011 Release

Reviewed: 17 September 2012

Giants Steps have been taking, well, giant steps in their pursuit of making wines that reflect the place in which the grapes are grown. With access to several excellent vineyards in the Yarra Valley, Steve Flamsteed has produced a superb range of wines that speak of the place where they were grown.

The current release of chardonnays and pinot noirs are from the 2011 vintage. This was a very cold and wet vintage that presented numerous challenges in the vineyard and winery. Properly managed, it is clear that the vintage has produced some excellent wines, albeit in a finer, more elegant style to the 2010s. I expect that in the longer term, the 2011’s from Giant Steps will be fantastic.

The Chardonnays saw 20% new oak, plenty of lees stirring and, in 2011, had only partial malo-lactic fermentation.They are lean and elegant. The pinots are feminine, subtle and supple. They are light bodied now, but experience has shown that with 5 – 10 years in the bottle, these will flesh out and build depth. Quantities of all wines are very limited, so I suggest trying your favourite bottle shop soon.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so as usual, my points are for indication purposes only.

Reviewed

Giant Steps – Viognier – Mule – 2011 (17). Apricot and citrus aromas with hints of honey. The palate balances gentle viscosity and texture with fresh acidity that imbues the finish with real drive. Good length of flavour in a leaner style that works really well. Picked earlier to retain crispness, this is a good alternative to sauvignon blanc.

Giant Steps – Chardonnay – Sexton Vineyard – 2011 (17.8). Really creamy and fine, with cashew nut complexity and a lovely mineral core. Hints of lanolin over elegant melon fruit. Stone-fruit on the finish combines with texturing oak and fine acidity to confer excellent length. An elegant wine that will take a few years in the cellar.

Giant Steps – Chardonnay – Tarraford Vineyard – 2011 (18.2). Perhaps the most complete of the three 2011 chardonnays. On the nose there is nutty minerality, whilst the fruit on the palate has real thrust and drive. The balance and length are highlights. The fine minerality is a key component to the finish while the oak and lees characters are a mere whisper on the finish. An excellent wine of real class, this will be even better in 3 – 5 years.

Giant Steps – Chardonnay – Arthurs Creek Vineyard – 2011 (17.5). Slightly richer fruit on the nose. Again, there is lovely creamy notes over delicate fruit aromas. The palate is more forward with strong minerality over subtle fruit. The winemaking influences are less obvious, making this better drinking today. The length is a standout. This should age well also.

Giant Steps – Sangiovese – Mule – 2010 (17). Fresh and vibrant fruit. Has authentic characters, but a degree of fleshiness courtesy its new world origins. Good length and juicy fruit make this a good drink now.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Sexton Vineyard – 2011 (17.8+). Light strawberry hue reflecting the vintage conditions. With cherry and subtle strawberry and spice aromas, this is quite perfumed and evolves in the glass. The palate is firm and austere right now, but the fruit and tannins have an attractive degree of ripeness. An elegant, feminine wine that finishes with tarry complexity. The structure, mouth-feel and length are excellent and the finish is slightly chewy. This really needs a year or two to settle down and open up.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Gladysdale Vineyard – 2011 (18). If anything, even lighter than the Sexton. Complex, pepper and spice, with precise textural components. Elegant fruit on the palate leads on to a textured finish. This really is very long and fine. Subtle and supple, this is very feminine, but still has a degree of power to the fruit. Needs a few years to flesh out, but patience will be rewarded. Burgundian in style.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Applejack – 2011 (18.5). Delicate colour here. More intensity to the fruit on the nose, with more overt cherry aromas on display. This is a lovely wine in the mouth! The texture and mouth-feel are superb. The fruit is remarkably intense on the finish for such a delicate wine and the length is notable. Evolves and builds with air, developing a chewy texture from ripe, though firm tannins and supple oak. Good now, but even better in 5 years.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Applejack – 2010 (18). Wow, the increased fruit intensity and density comes as a shock after the refined and elegant 2011. Spice and smoky notes on the nose over dense red fruits. Much richer in the mouth than the 2010, with firmer tannins on the chewy, textured finish. Good length, but lacks the ultimate balance of the 2011.

Giant Steps – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Harry’s Monster – 2010 (18-18.5). With all the hype about pinot, it is easy to forget just how good Yarra Valley cabernet can be. The wine is closed, but hints at its potential. The fruit is ripe, taut, dense, very finely structured and superbly long. Textured, this has fine tannins and the quality oak has been expertly managed. Ripe tannins are a highlight. Will live for a long time.

Victorian Tasting – New Release

Reviewed – 3 March 2010

The diversity in the Australian wine industry continues to expand each year. It has become hard to keep up to date with the new and exciting wineries that are continually springing up. When John Jens called to say that there was a tasting of some of the new (and not so new) emerging producers, I was keen to attend. The wines were primarily Victorian, with a good selection of pinot noir.

The wines were presented by wholesalers Travis Howe, Cath Willcock (Imbibo) and also a producer, in Erinn Klein (Ngeringa). Whilst the wines on show were diverse in style, the common theme was the passion with which our hosts presented the wines! Ngeringa is an interesting story, with the wines being Biodynamic. Errin is totally committed to the principles and feels that the wines are now expressing a true sense of place. Whether biodynamics is your thing matters not. The chardonnay is worth trying.

There were several highlights including the wines from Bass Phillip and William Downie. The pick for me, from a value point of view, was the Jamsheed pinot (Pepe Le Pinot). An excellent drink at the price.

NB: This was not a blind tasting. There were too many wines on tasting to review them all, so I focussed mainly on the pinots.

Reviewed

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Premium – 2008 (18 – 18.5). Complex nose, but a touch more forward than in some previous years. The palate is a treat, with leather and spice over earthy fruit. Very refined, this is powerful and silky, though very tight. This is more Burundian in style and is not as approachable as the Crown Prince at the moment.

William Downie – Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Rich, dense and structured, the ripe fruit perfectly balanced by textural components and fine, lingering acidity. The mouth-feel is fantastic and will only get better. The finish is very long and precise. A complete wine!

William Downie – Pinot Noir – Mornington Peninsula – 2010 (18+). Silky wine, though tighter than the Yarra and Gippsland wines. The structure here is the key. The acid is a touch high at the moment, so give it a year or two to settle. As this opens up, it develops some of the mouth-watering juicy fruit that these wines all seam to have. The finish is long and textured. May turn out to be the best of the three in the medium term.

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Crown Prince – 2008 (17.5/18). Ripe fruit aromas leap from the glass, with strawberry, plum and cherry fruit characters. A generous palate displaying rich, ripe and textured fruit. Think spice, with earthy and meaty components over ripe red berries. The length and generosity make this a great drink. (I gave this extra points for being a really good drink!)

Mayer – Pinot Noir – Doctor – 2010. (17.5 – 18). From a close planted vineyard. Closed and tight on the nose. There is rich, sweet fruit on the palate that evolves into a savoury mouth-feel with extraordinarily fine tannins that caress the tongue. Balanced fresh acidity carries the palate to a precise and long finish. There is a touch of grip on the finish, but this will soften with air. Bring on the roast duck.

Syrahmi – Shiraz – Climat – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Very enticing nose that is vibrant and perfumed, whilst being really deep smelling. In the mouth, there is cherry, menthol, pepper and chocolate over red fruits. Despite its refreshingly moderate alcohol (13.2%), this is packed with flavour. The finish is silky and long, with some leather, aniseed and spice to close. An elegant wine.

William Downie – Pinot Noir – Gippsland – 2010 (17.5 – 18). More immediate appeal here than the other Downie pinots. With bright red fruits, this is succulent, juicy, generous, round and forward. The length and structure are very good. Drink this while waiting for the others.

Wildcroft – Shiraz – Wild One – 2007 (17.8). Rich and vibrant fruit to start, but there are some really interesting funky characters and white pepper reminiscent of the Northern Rhone. The palate has powerful fruit, with earthy (almost gamey) overtones. A long, silky palate is set off by fine, chalky tannins. Not a mainstream style, but a very good wine.

Ngeringa – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.7). Surprisingly fresh and vibrant for a wine that went through 100% malo-lactic fermentation. The palate is where this wine stands out. Excellent mouth-feel and texture on show here. The sweet fruit blends seamlessly with the wine-maker’s inputs such as barrel fermentation and some lees work. A fine wine with obvious appeal. Biodynamic Wine.

Madderns Rise – Chardonnay – 2009. (17.5). Nectarine, peach and perfumed floral notes. This smells really creamy, courteous of the 100% malo-lactic fermentation, though it is in no way overblown. The palate has fruit richness and texture, with grapefruit acidity running over the top. Very fresh, this should improve for another year or two. Good drinking.

Garagiste – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17 – 17.5). Bright, clean and fresh. The palate is excellent, with forward, bright fruit that is long and textured. This has a lovely mouth-feel to complement the juicy fruit. Not quite as complex as some, but this should be excellent value.

Jamsheed Wines – Pinot Noir – Harem Series – Pepe Le Pinot -2010 (17 – 17.5). Smells like pinot, tastes like pinot… must be pinot. This is a really smart little wine, with cherry and spice on a textured palate. There is a touch of licorice and sympathetic oak to close. At around $20, this is a beauty! Try La Vigna, Beaufort St Merchant or Lamont’s in Perth or United Cellars on the east coast.

Mayer – Chardonnay – Bloody Hill – 2010 (16.9). Subdued nose to start. The palate is fine and silky, with excellent length and texture. The fruit is not particularly complex, but the wine-maker’s inputs add to the mouth-feel.

Ravensworth – Marsanne – 2009 (16.9). Complex aromas of subtle fruit, with a touch of oak evident. Made in a style that emphasizes texture and mouth-feel over primary fruit. Quite a neutral wine that will take food well. Made by Tim Kirk from Clonakilla.

Mayer – Pinot Noir – Bloody Hill – 2010 (16.8). A pretty wine with cherry fruit over tar and spice. The palate is round and satisfying with no rough edges. Acids and tannins keep the fruit fresh and there is little in the way of oak influence.

Pinot Noir and Friends

New Release Tasting

24 November 2010

Pinot noir is a most frustrating grape variety. At its best, the wines possess an almost ethereal character that has aficionados paying hundreds, (even thousands) of dollars a bottle. Often, however, the wines lack any redeeming features, as pinot is a difficult grape to get right in the vineyard, and is also fickle in the winery as well.

With this in mind, pinot noir tastings are the most anticipated that the Fine Wine Club tasting panel judge. It is the hope of finding that mystical wine that hooks us in, though the reality is usually much more painful.

The highlight of this tasting were the two wines from Ostler. I do not know anything about them, but the quality suggests that they are an outfit to follow closely. The Peregrine was great drinking and the Provenance good value.

Of the whites, the Yerring Station is worth a try. It took a couple of days to show its best, but this is an interesting wine. The Nicolas Feuilatte was excellent drinking.

Reviewed – Friends

Nicolas Feuilatte – Champagne – Reserve Particulare – NV (17.9). Quite complex and dense, this has powerful, (though fine) fruit. The palate has lovely red berry fruit characters, suggesting a higher use of pinot noir in the blend. The texture and mouth-feel are excellent. This will get even higher marks with a little bottle age to allow the fruit to open up.

Yerring Station – Marsanne/Viognier/Roussanne – MVR – 2008 (17.8). Very restrained compared to the other whites here. The palate is pristine, pure, restrained, taut, racy and long. The mouth-feel is good and the finish mouth-watering. Whilst very subtle, this has plenty to offer and really hit its straps after being open for two days.

Barwick Estate – Viognier – The Collectables – 2007 (17.2). This wine polarised the panel. Complex, textured, powerful and long, the palate is viscous with nutty fruit characters. The phenolics are a bit less pronounced than in the Millbrook, and the extra bottle age is evident. One reviewer found the palate somewhat fat.

Millbrook – Viognier – Limited Release – 2009 (17). This received mixed reviews. This is a powerful and complex wine. There is apricot, almond and a very viscous mouth-feel. One reviewer felt the phenolics overpowered the fruit somewhat.

Millbrook – Viognier – Estate – 2009 (16.8). Reserved, oily, viscous, tight and long. There is not as much going on here, but this is perhaps the best drink right now.

Gabbiano – Asti – NV (16.5). Fine yet very persistent bead. Pretty nose with floral and grape juice notes. Plenty of floral fruit and sugar sweetness on the palate, though I would have preferred a touch more acid to offset the sweetness a little more. Value.

Reviewed – Pinot Noir

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2008 (18+). Very powerful fruit. Pretty fruit characters on the nose, though the latent structure is holding everything in check. The palate is long and dense, and the quality of the fruit is evident. The textural components are a highlight, as demonstrated by the silky mouth-feel. Give it a few years and this will be superb.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2009 (18). Fragrant and very pretty nose of red berries. The quality of the fruit is highlighted by the ripe fruit notes and excellent fruit weight. Texture is a highlight on the palate with dense fruit in the cherry spectrum. There are also hints of truffle/forest floor on a silky, slippery and supple finish. This is drinking really well now.

Provenance – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.7). Seductive nose! This is silky, fragrant and gently spiced, with excellent fruit quality. The palate is long and nicely weighted. There is a touch of earthy textures and oak tannins on the finish. Very promising wine, and good value at around $30.

Peregrine – Pinot Noir – 2008 – (17.5/18). The real sleeper of the tasting. A lighter style, with more spice over fresh red berries. Whilst closed, this is light, fresh, and easy to drink. With time in the glass, this developed lovely sappy fruit and real depth of flavour. After two days on the tasting bench, this showed very well!

Curly Flats – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.5). A wine in two parts. There is a seductive nose showing hints of strawberry, stone-fruit and earthy/gamey highlights. The palate, however, is very structured, firm and austere. There is good length, but the finish is drying. This could go either way, but my points indicate that I actually liked it.

Barwick Estate – Pinot Noir – The Collectables – 2008 (17/17.5). Starts out firm and muscular, and the cherry/plum fruit is restrained. There is a touch of bacon fat on the nose, typical of the region/oak treatment. This really opened up with time, and the pretty fruit and texture were a highlight.

Ant Moore – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). An interesting wine. Powerful, textured, nutty and dense. Will age well. (More akin to a dry red in style and would have received higher marks in a tasting with wines other than pinot).

Peregrine – Pinot Noir – Saddleback – 2008 (17). Fragrant plum, spice and strawberry. Quite medium bodied, this has pretty fruit. Not as complex as the best, but good drinking and not bad value for a pinot.

Clemens Hill – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.8). Crimson colour. In some ways this is more shiraz like, with sweet fruit, lovely mouth-feel and fine tannins on a textured finish. This represents good drinking, though it is not strictly pinot-like.

Rau – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.5). More weight than some here. Fresh fruit on the nose and high acidity on the finish. May evolve.

Riesling and Pinot New Release

5 July 2010

Reviewed

Richardson – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.8). Complex dark fruits including cherry and plum. Cedary oak adds complexity but does not dominate. Good fruit here. Concentrated and dense. The texture and length are highlights. Will evolve.

Angove – Riesling – Vineyard Select – 2009 (17.7). From the Clare Valley. More alive than some here. Opens with citrus zest, grapefruit and lime juice. The palate is flooded with lovely limey fruit. The texture in the middle palate is good and the finish is balanced. Acid builds to add focus. A very good wine.

Dog Point – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.5). Fragrant and perfumed, with red fruits, cherry and blackcurrant all combined with a touch of cedar in an attractive package. The palate has serious, layered fruit and the wine is well made. Texture and length are the highlights. Leave it for a few years if you can resist drinking it, and be rewarded. NB. I was on my own in recommending this.

Kalgan River – Riesling – 2008 (17.5). Closed. Fine acid dominates fruit right now. Some lemon and musk/spice on a palate that develops and builds. Germanic in style, with a touch of fruit and sugar sweetness.

Lamont’s – Riesling – 2009 (17). Restrained at the moment. Steely and fine on the palate, there is minerals and fine acid to carry the finish. Very long and develops. Clearly superior.

Wynns – Riesling – 2009 (16.8). Restrained and taught on the nose. There is almost a touch of spritz on the palate from the acid and dissolved CO2. Very tight and fine, the acid is beautifully balanced. This is very young and sure to age well, (and score higher points in the future).

Angove – Riesling – Long Row – 2009 (16.7). Not so overt on the nose, but a touch of lemon sherbert and perfume. Round, soft, balanced and with good acidity to close. A touch of sweetness makes it easy to drink.

MadFish – Pinot Noir – Gold Turtle – 2009 (16.5). This really opened up with air. Sweet cherry fruit combine with spice and a touch of perfume. Whilst the palate is long, this is far too young. (Received more support from the rest of the panel).

Kalgan River – Riesling – 2009 (16). Floral and fresh nose. Floral with lime juice running through the palate. A touch of caramel is a bit out of place.

New Release – Mixed

Reviewed: 14 March 2013

Every now and then, a tasting slips through the cracks and does not get published.

I reviewed these wines a month ago, but forgot to write up the review. This means there is a little bit of context missing, as I have had to rely solely on my tasting notes to bring the reviews to you

Reviewed

Millbrook – Tempranillo – 2012 (17). I like the smell of this as it has ripe fruit, balanced by savoury highlights. There is a touch of fruit cake, currants and cedar on the palate. The tannins are quite fine, yet assertive, giving the finish a drying edge. The texture is good and the fruit builds with air. A year or two will see this flesh out and build.

Cape Mentelle – Zinfandel – 2011 (17.3). Dense, fleshy fruit is the dominant character on both the nose and palate. This is a ripe, yet well structured wine that balances fruit richness with an excellent mouth-feel. This is a leaner style of zinfandel that balances the fruit with fine tannins and a savoury edge. Will work a treat with a casserole anytime in the next 5 – 7 years.

Hamelin Bay Wines – Merlot – Rosé – 2012 (17). The panel really enjoyed this wine as it was considered to be a good example of the style. Leads off with a neutral nose that, whilst dry, has a floral lift. Dry and savoury on the palate, this has refreshing acidity balanced with a hint of savoury fruit.

Fifth Leg – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – Rosé – 2012 (16.5). Richer hue and more body to the fruit on the nose. Savoury, dry and with a touch of grip on the close. I like this style where the savoury structure takes precedence, and the gentle red fruits caress the palate on the finish.

Swings & Roundabouts – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – Backyard Stories – 2011(16.7). Ripe, new world fruit, but there is good acidity to balance the fruit and dosage. Good length and gentle complexity to a wine that is uncomplicated and easy to drink.

Brookwood Estate – Chenin Blanc – NV (16.5). I like the fact that this is obviously made from chenin blanc in the style of wines from the Loire Valley in France. The fruit has real apple like overtones and the acid is refreshing and lively.