Adam from Fine Wine Partners wanted to show us a cross section of their range, so I took the opportunity to pair the wines with similar wines and see how they faired.

The standout was the St Hallett’s Gamekeeper’s Reserve Shiraz/Cabernet. A great value wine from the excellent 2008 vintage.

The only downside from a tasting like this is the lack of perspective that we get from looking at 15 or 20 wines of the same variety. Still, a good wine is a good wine.

Reviewed

Henschke – Riesling – Julius – 2009 (18). Quite oily to open, with plenty of minerals too. The palate is firm and austere. No rough edges on this, and it has lime juice acidity that is precise and focussed. Granny Smith apple acidity to close. Needs time.

St Hallett – Shiraz/Cabernet – Gamekeeper’s (17.7). Lovely nose, with licorice and tar over white pepper and cinnamon. The palate is fresh, vibrant and displays succulent fruit. Any oak is in the background. Very good drinking.

Ashbrook Estate – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.5). Well supported by the panel. Almond meal and minerals on the nose with some stonefruit notes. The palate is tight and quite austere, yet the texture is excellent. This is a worked wine, but in a refined style. There is fine oak and some lees and barrel ferment notes with a complex and long finish. Not everyone’s style, but an interesting wine that is worth a try.

Wise – Cabernet – Eagle Bay – 2008 (17.5). Elegant and refined. Lovely fruit is typical of cabernet. This is dense and textured and the tannins are chalky yet fine. There is dense ripe fruit and licorice/spice. Serious quality fruit that will evolve well with 5-10 years in the bottle.

Capel Vale – Shiraz – regional Series – 2008 (17.4). Lush and dense. Licorice and spice on the nose. Some chocolate and mocha too. Plenty of pepper on the palate, this is a smart wine. The finish is clean and fresh, developing some pretty fruit characters. Spice and licorice. Acid gives the palate carry, oak needs to settle.

Jackson Estate – Pinot Noir – Vintage Widow – 2008 (17.3). Fresh and obvious pinot fruit characters in the strawberry and cherry spectrum. The palate follows the theme and is elegant and a touch angular. Should flesh out with a few years.

Wise – Shiraz -2008 (17.3). Pristine red fruits on the nose. The palate is firm, but with enough flesh to make for interesting drinking. There is quite a souring finish that should carry food well. Big, round, dense. Tannic finish. Plummy bright fruit.

Seresin – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 – (17). Another good effort from Seresin. Tropical fruit to the fore with passionfruit and musk. The palate has some grassy notes with fruit salad and fresh acidity to close. Relatively dry. Pungent style but good.

Wither Hills – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). Lovely seductive nose. Really deep smelling. Black cherries, tar, cedary oak all vie for attention. There is plenty of grip on the slightly stalky finish that shuts down the fruit.

Vidal – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 – (16.9). Musk, lantana and fresh, floral characters. Fresh and bright, but without great depth. Excellent value. Made by Villa Maria.

Sandalford – Rose – 2010 (16.5). The vivid colour is remarkable. Nice fruit characters on the nose. Juicy and succulent, yet with enough depth to make it interesting. Dry and firm palate with some redcurrant and red creaming soda flavours.

Barwick Estate – Chardonnay – The Collectables – 2009 (17.5). Big, rich and creamy wine in a more old-fashioned style. Broad and with high toned smoky/bacon fat oak. There is no doubt that this is impressive, it is just a style that I do not want to drink yet. Interestingly, after being open for several days, I had another look and the peachy cramy palate was outstanding. Points for potential.

5 July 2010

Reviewed

Richardson – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.8). Complex dark fruits including cherry and plum. Cedary oak adds complexity but does not dominate. Good fruit here. Concentrated and dense. The texture and length are highlights. Will evolve.

Angove – Riesling – Vineyard Select – 2009 (17.7). From the Clare Valley. More alive than some here. Opens with citrus zest, grapefruit and lime juice. The palate is flooded with lovely limey fruit. The texture in the middle palate is good and the finish is balanced. Acid builds to add focus. A very good wine.

Dog Point – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.5). Fragrant and perfumed, with red fruits, cherry and blackcurrant all combined with a touch of cedar in an attractive package. The palate has serious, layered fruit and the wine is well made. Texture and length are the highlights. Leave it for a few years if you can resist drinking it, and be rewarded. NB. I was on my own in recommending this.

Kalgan River – Riesling – 2008 (17.5). Closed. Fine acid dominates fruit right now. Some lemon and musk/spice on a palate that develops and builds. Germanic in style, with a touch of fruit and sugar sweetness.

Lamont’s – Riesling – 2009 (17). Restrained at the moment. Steely and fine on the palate, there is minerals and fine acid to carry the finish. Very long and develops. Clearly superior.

Wynns – Riesling – 2009 (16.8). Restrained and taught on the nose. There is almost a touch of spritz on the palate from the acid and dissolved CO2. Very tight and fine, the acid is beautifully balanced. This is very young and sure to age well, (and score higher points in the future).

Angove – Riesling – Long Row – 2009 (16.7). Not so overt on the nose, but a touch of lemon sherbert and perfume. Round, soft, balanced and with good acidity to close. A touch of sweetness makes it easy to drink.

MadFish – Pinot Noir – Gold Turtle – 2009 (16.5). This really opened up with air. Sweet cherry fruit combine with spice and a touch of perfume. Whilst the palate is long, this is far too young. (Received more support from the rest of the panel).

Kalgan River – Riesling – 2009 (16). Floral and fresh nose. Floral with lime juice running through the palate. A touch of caramel is a bit out of place.

1 July 2010

This week’s new release tasting provided the opportunity to look through all the non-mainstream wines that have come through over the last few weeks. There was a solid bracket of tempranillo, plus some other interesting wines that offered real drinking pleasure.

The Butchers Block red blend from Turkey Flat is another excellent red from the 2008 vintage. I also really enjoyed its sister wine, The Butchers Block white blend. This is an impressive wine that will complement a variety of foods.

The third wine that caught our attention was the tempranillo from Mount Avoca. Unlike a couple of wines here, there was proper varietal definition to the wine with excellent fruit quality and wine-making.

Reviewed

Turkey Flat – Shiraz/Grenache/Mouvedre – Butchers Block – 2008 (18+). Dense yet sweet fruit to open. Plums to the fore on the palate with Ribina and redcurrant too. Driven by fresh, juicy fruit characters, the finish is carried by the acid rather than tannins. Excellent drinking over the next 5 years, but there is enough structure to reward cellaring.

Mount Avoca – Tempranillo – 2008 (18). Quite dense but more herbal and savoury than some. Cough mixture, spice and cherry all vie with the plumy fruit on the palate. A lovely mouth-watering finish adds life. The chewy tannins will evolve and help keep everything in check. A very good wine indeed.

Turkey Flat – Marsanne/Viognier/Rousanne – Butchers Block – 2009 (17.3). Quite aromatic, yet still possessing some structure and texture. Lovely mouth-feel, this is creamy, complex and lemony. Barrel ferment/maturation characters add texture and complexity to what is an excellent wine.

Finca de Arantei – Albarino – 2008 (16.9). Creamy fruit on the nose, with apricot and lychee. These characters follow through on the palate with lovely fresh acid and more tropical fruits. Good length and a touch of viscosity add to the appeal. Good drinking.

Stella Bella – Tempranillo/Blend – Skuttlebutt – Otro Vino – 2007 (16.9). Has more of the minty fruit characters, but backed up by fleshy, ripe fruit. Think plum, raspberry and a touch of blackcurrant, with cedar and spice. The palate is flooded by masses of fresh fruit, and has an easy drinking finish. Coffee and toffee to close.

MadFish – Tempranillo – Gold Turtle – 2008 (16.8). Really deep smelling. Crisp cherry fruit with tar and leather too. The palate is true to variety with cherry/plum and strawberry fruit characters. Not complex, but quite long with dusty tannins to close. Worth a try.

Stella Bella – Tempranillo – 2007 (16.8). Wow. Masses of lifted, ripe fruit on the nose. A big wine with vanillin and cedar overtones. The palate is more restrained than expected, with menthol, tobacco, leather, cinnamon and mouth-coating fine tannins. An impressive wine, but does this accurately reflect the variety?

Willow Bridge – Tempranillo – Solana – 2008 (16.7). Very new world. Spotlessly clean with a touch of vanillin oak to open. The palate is vibrant and plush with mouth-filling fruit and good texture. Hints at the variety with dusty/chewy tannins to close. A well made wine that will appeal to shiraz drinkers.

Angove – Tempranillo/Shiraz – Nine Vines – 2007 (16.6). Savoury and interesting. The palate is full of maraschino cherries and fresh acid. Not complex, but a refreshing wine that would go well with a bowl of pasta.

Stella Bella – Sangiovese/Cabernet – 2007 (16.5). Earthy, savoury, herbal and cool fruit characters on the nose. Minty fruit is the main flavour on the palate, and while the length is good, it is quite angular and lean.

Angove – Moscato – Nine Vines – 2010 (16.5). Musk and grapefruit. Spice and fun. Fresh and sweet, this is great Sunday afternoon quaffing. Not complicated but satisfying. One panellist felt this could have been more grapey, but it is hard to argue with the value.

Last Sunday Tasting Group

25 April 2010

Regular readers will know that I really value this group. They are a great group of people whom are extremely generous. So when Loren White suggested that we look at currently available reds that are worth cellaring, my mind went into overdrive. Barossa shiraz, Margaret River cabernet, Yarra Valley pinot, the options were endless.

In the end, I settled on a pair of 5th Growth Bordeauxs from 2006. These are in store now (Vintage Cellars have some stocks still), and 2006 is a typical year.

There were some sensational wines, and the 2005 Mosswood was a treat. The notes are a bit sparse as, although this was a blind tasting, the wines deserved to be drunk, not tipped out!

Tasted

Louis Michel & Fils – Chablis – Les Clos – Grand Cru – 2003 (18.2). Wow, this is a serious wine. Very Burgundian nose with a creamy textured nose and a touch of peach fruit characters. The palate is long, tight and rich.

Penfolds – Chardonnay – Bin 311 – 2006 (17.7). This is a big wine. Much richer fruit that is super ripe. Great texture and mouth-feel. Yes, the oak is apparent but, no, it does not overwhelm the fruit. Impressive wine that manages to balance the ripe fruit and creamy oak very well. (Received strong support from most present).

Marchand and Burch – Pinot Noir – Gibraltar Rock – 2008 (17.9). Very perfumed and really pretty. There is a touch of orange rind on what is a very pretty nose. Whilst closed at first, the pretty fruit continues on the palate in the cherry spectrum. This builds in the mouth.

Domaine Des Lises – Crozes Hermitage – 2007 (18.2). The nose displays firm, meaty and earthy fruit, with an undercurrent of fresh flowers. The palate is quite special. Great fruit is complemented by souring acidity that keeps things fresh. There are also very fine tannins on a long finish. Flavours include mocha, cherry, tar and even lavender. Good value at under $50.

Lindermans – Cabernet Sauvignon – St George – 1996 (18.5). Ripe fruit, with camphor and subtle oak complexity. There are some regional minty characters, but the fruit is perfectly ripe. The palate has powerful fruit, is structured, is very long and displays excellent balance. Great texture and mouth-feel.

Orlando – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jacaranda Ridge – 1996 (18). Richer than the St George, and very seductive. There is licorice, spice and generous fruit on a palate that is long, fine and seamless.

Haut Bages Liberal – Cabernet Blend – Pauliac 5th Growth – 2006 (17.8). Quite closed on the nose. This is complex and shows some cedary oak and is very structured. The palate is lean and very structured. It is long and lean, but builds.

Haut Batailley – Cabernet Blend – Pauliac 5th Growth – 2006 (18.3). More forward and a touch of plummy fruit. There are quite dusty fruit characters at first, but really opens up with vibrant fruit. There is plenty of structure that guarantees a bright future.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005 (18.7). Superb fruit that is ripe and fleshy, yet displays complex characters and fine oak. The palate is long, ripe, structured and dense, with cedary oak on the back palate. Will improve for 10+ years and last for many more.

Victory Point – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005 (18). Minty cabernet fruit that is classically Margaret River. The palate is ripe and long. This is the best wine that I have seen under this label and should be available from the winery.

Woodlands – Cabernet Franc/Merlot – 2008 (18.4). Stunning nose on this. Briary fruit with tar and violets. Some oak in support. The palate is quite grippy and firm with dense fruit (Satsuma plum) and great length. Tremendous value at $25.

Syrahmi – Shiraz – Maelstrom – 2008 (17). Living life on the edge, this is a challenging wine that will appeal to those who like their wines a little funky.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – Black Label – 2006 (17.5/18). A big, dense and chewy wine with chocolate fruit and a touch of mint. Started out quite closed though. This really opened up and the quality fruit built significantly. It is a bit tough now, but the patient will be rewarded.

Seppelts – Shiraz – Mt Ida – 2005 (17.5). There is a whole lot going on here. Quite a funky wine on the nose. The palate is more mainstream with plush plum/chocolate fruit and a very complex finish. Needs time.

Tardieu-Laurent – Cotes du Rhone – Les Becs Fins – 2007 (18.5). Fragrant and floral nose. In fact it is really quite perfumed. The palate is complex yet retains freshness. There is plum, spice, fine tannins and real length, with a souring finish that adds freshness. Should be excellent value.

Coursodon – Shiraz – St Joseph – Silice – 2006 (17.8). The nose is quite closed yet the palate displays ripe fruit. Pepper, spice, licorice and very fine tannins all contribute to a high quality palate. Morish, and will score better in a few years.

Negociants Australia

24 March 2010

Negociants Australia is the distribution arm of Yalumba. They have (arguably) the biggest range of high quality imported wines of any wholesaler in Australia. Unfortunately, we do not receive samples from Negociants to put into our panel tastings. (Everyone complain to Tim Evans).

When John Jens phoned me to say that Negociants were hosting a tasting of wines from their portfolio, I jumped at the opportunity to attend. Our exposure to imported wines is low and tastings like this allow me to refresh my palate. I must point out that the wines were not tried blind, so label bias may apply.

From a learning perspective, the highlight of the tasting was the range of sauvignon blancs from St Clair. To see the stylistic differences between different vineyards from the same maker/grape/year was illuminating. It must be a marketing nightmare trying to get bottle shops to stock more than one of the wines though.

As you will see from my notes, there was a selection of high quality wines. My only caveat is that these wines come a long way to get to Perth, and their carbon footprint is significant compared to a local bottle, (I am a closet greenie).

Tasted

Saint Clair – Sauvignon Blanc – Wairau Reserve – 2009 (18.5). This wine is restrained and tight. A powerful wine displaying lemon and lime as well as tropical fruit in the passionfruit spectrum. Whilst textured and very long, it is the balance of the wine that sets it apart. One of the best NZ sauvignon blancs I can remember.

Saint Clair – Sauvignon Blanc – Pioneer Block 2 – 2009 (18). Wow. This has more of everything. Pungent (good) nose of lantana, lime juice and passionfruit. The palate has ripe passionfruit. and crisp lemony acid. Good texture and mouth-feel too. The tropical characters build in the glass.

Saint Clair – Sauvignon Blanc – Pioneer Block 19 – 2009 (17.8). More grassy and herbaceous nose. The palate is viscous, complex and finishes with lemony acid. An intense wine that builds fruit in the glass.

Saint Clair – Sauvignon Blanc – Pioneer Block 6 – 2009 (17.3). Closed and steely, this is much more austere. The palate is lemon brulee in a glass, and has good length. Will fill out and evolve with time.

Aldo Conterno – Barolo – 2005 (18.5). Made primarily from nebiolo, this is much lighter than a typical Australian red wine. There is even a touch of orange to the colour. Lovely fragrant nose with subtle spice. The palate is rich, concentrated and very long. Really builds in the mouth and has fine tannins that coat the mouth. Remarkably elegant finish for an impressive wine.

Gaja – Sito Moresco – 2006 (18.5). Really deep smelling with cabernet notes of red fruit and menthol. In the mouth this is tight, fine and incredibly silky. Some red fruits again on the palate, but this needs years to show its best. Fantastic wine made from nebiolo/merlot/cabernet.

Domaine De L’Arlot – Nuit St George – Premier Cru – Clos de L’Arlot – 2007 (18+). Sensational pinot noir! Ripe, dense and complex, this really evolves in the glass. Some smoke and tar add real complexity. The fruit quality is demonstrated on the palate, with fragrant red fruits and cherry. Really long and fine, the fruit is framed by fine oak. A pretty wine and a great example. (I just wish I could afford to drink it at $120).

Faively – Mercury – Clos de Myglands – 2005 (17.5+). More structured and firm than the L’Arlot. A powerful, masculine wine that needs several years to allow the fruit to emerge from the grippy palate.

Marc Bredif – Chenin Blanc- Vouvray – 2007 (17.5). Chenin Blanc. Lifted floral nose of real interest. The palate is a flood of rich apricot characters with sherbet. Textured and viscous in the mouth, the sugar sweetness fills out the palate. Guaranteed to age well.

Domaine de Ladoucette – Sancerre – Comte Lafond – 2007 (17.3). Made from sauvignon blanc, this is a bright wine with minerals and spice leading on the nose. The palate is long and focused with a lovely lemon zest character to add intensity. Good drinking.

Thieuley – Blanc – Bordeaux – 2008 (17+). Quite closed on the palate but with some floral, ripe fruit characters. The palate is creamy, textured and long. Some barrel ferment characters, but very clean. A blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon and should be good value.

Weingut Bernhard Ott – Gruner Veltliner – Fass 4 – 2008 (17.2). An intense wine showing mineral and spice over citrus rind. Oily palate is typical of the style and the lemony fruit dominates a textured palate. Will improve.

Egon Muller – Riesling – Scharzhof – 2007 (17). Floral hints lead to slate and minerals with a hint of lemon sorbet. The minerally texture continues on the palate with some honeyed fruit. A touch of sugar on the palate makes for a lovely drink.

Lager de Cervera – Albarino – 2008 (17). From Rias Biaxas, the home of albarino, this is aromatic and lively. The palate has lemon sherbet, is long, viscous and juicy.

JJ Vincent – Bourgogne Blanc – 2007 (16.9). Developed and round. Nutty fruit with minerals and a degree of viscosity to the honeyed palate. Not intense, but good drinking.

Oliver Leflaive – Bourgogne Blanc – Les Setilles – 2007 (16.8). Clean and fresh, with cashew nut and minerals. Not complex, but satisfying.

8 March 2010

Perth Flying Squadron Yacht Club

Jill Lyons from Cellar Select (Wholesalers) arranged a trade day at Perth Flying Squadron Yacht Club to allow the producers she represents to share their wines and philosophies with restaurateurs and retailers to increase their profile.

I find these tastings invaluable as it allows a cross section of several producers’ wines to be tasted in one venue. The tastings are also a trap for a wine nut, as I am keen to try all the wines on offer. Over the years, I have seen many people achieve this task and sample 50+ wines over a few hours, and the results are not pretty. This is exacerbated by the fact that those attempting this feat often do not spit out the wine.

To limit the amount of time these tastings take, I try to target particular styles of wines. At this tasting, I tried to focus on the mainstream varieties of the regions from where they were produced.

The highlight of the tasting was looking at the range from Lost Lake. The two pinots in particular really spoke of where they came from. They both had a smoky/dusty character that I have seen in many of the Picardy pinots. This is not that surprising as the vineyards are neighbours, and were once part of the same farm. One to watch!

A special thanks to Jill for giving us the opportunity to try these wines and meet the people behind them. My tasting notes are a bit sparse, as it is hard to make detailed notes in this format. This was not a blind tasting in general, so my points may be a bit generous.

Tasted

Hamelin Bay – Cabernet – Five Ashes Reserve – 2007 (18). Dense dark fruit with ripe blackcurrant overtones. Points mainly for potential, as this has a lovely textured palate, with cinnamon and cedary oak. For the cellar.

Lost Lake – Pinot Noir – Barrel Select – 2008 (17.7). Dense, with a core of ripe fruit. The palate is expansive, with ripe cherry fruit interwoven with new oak inputs. There is a touch of smokiness on the ripe, clean finish. A solid effort that displays its regionality.

Hamelin Bay – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.5). Plenty of stone-fruit characters, but the nose is quite closed at present. The palate is textured and minerally, and displays some passionfruit, curry leaf and clove. Give it a few years to really sing.

Ironwood – Chardonnay – 2007. (17.5+). Quite a big, rich wine with some stone-fruit, vanilla, pineapple and buttery/creamy oak. The palate has more of the creamy oak, is long and has good structure. Ready to go, but not current release.

Lost Lake – Cabernet – Barrel Select (17.5+). Textbook Western Australian cabernet aromas, with a touch of eucalypt and mint that does not detract from the red fruits. A fine and elegant wine with dusty tannins that remain in balance. Will improve for a few years.

Lost Lake – Chardonnay – Single Vineyard – 2008 (17.5). Long, fine and lemony with very complimentary oak use. Needs a few years to settle down.

Woodgate – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2008 (17.5). Closed, tight and hinting at its potential. Has creamy/peachy fruit on the palate with rich pineapple characters typical of the Mendoza clone of chardonnay (50% in this case). Drink the 07 while you are waiting for the 08 to come around. At around $20, both Woodgate chardonnays are good value.

Ironwood – Riesling – 2008 (17.4). Lovely lime juice held in check by tight, steely acidity.One to watch and good value.

Schutz – Shiraz – Red Nectar – 2007 (17.3). I am starting to get a better understanding of 2007 shiraz from the Barossa. 2007 was a challenging year, and the wines lack the mid-palate density of the best. Wines like this are very enjoyable though, with fragrant, spicy, almost juicy fruit. The tannins are ripe and the mouth-feel is excellent. Good drinking over the next 5 years.

Woodgate – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.2). A very textural wine that really highlights the wine-making inputs. Worked, creamy and complex nose with quality oak. The palate shows barrel ferment characters and the benefits of lees stirring in a rich textured wine. One for chardonnay lovers.

Lost Lake – Shiraz – Single Vineyard – 2008 (17+). Closed and tight with a fragrant nose showing plenty of pepper and spice. Supple in the mouth with a silky texture and good length. Will only get better.

Hamelin Bay – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17). Fragrant nose with floral accents, the palate is clear, fresh zest and long. There is plenty of lemony fruit and a touch of sherbet to close.

Lost Lake – Pinot Noir – Single Vineyard – 2008 (17). Fragrant and spicy nose which continues on the palate with a touch of smokiness and dusty characters. This is long, supple and textured. If you like Picardy pinot, then this is worth a try.

Ironwood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2006 (16.9). Quite forward, with some ripe berry characters. The palate shows dense fruit along with some savoury red fruit characters.

Ironwood – Shiraz – 2007 (16.8). Dense and deep smelling. This is quite a textural wine that has some cherry and plum, but is more about mouth-feel with a pleasant souring finish. Serve with food.

Maiolo – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.3). A slightly damp smell suppresses the fruit up front on what is quite a rich and textured wine. The palate is where it gets interesting with some worked, barrel ferment characters to the fresh fruit.

4th November 2009

I took the opportunity to pop in and see the team at Clairault while I was in Margaret River recently. The winery has been on a bit of a roller coaster over the last few years since the Martin family purchased the venture in 1999 from the Lewis family. The new ownership brought changes in the vineyard and the winery, which resulted in inconsistent wines for a few years whilst the changes were bedded down.

This all seems to be behind them now and winemaker Will Shields is producing some fantastic wines. The two that stood out were the 2009 Sauvignon Blanc and the 2005 Estate Cabernet.

I visited Evans and Tate, and their 2005 Reserve Chardonnay is worth a look at the price. I also tried the Vasse Felix tempranillo whilst away and was surprised to see authentic characters in the wine.

Tasted

Clairault – Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon (18.2). Dense, ripe and complex, this has impressive structure and fine oak. The palate is silky with cedar and ripe fruit tannins. Licorice fruit adds to the lovely mouth feel. The structure demands time in the cellar.

Evans and Tate – Cabernet – Reserve – 2002 (17.9). Quite developed. Lifted cassis with tar, tobacco leaf, plum and chocolate. The palate starts off lean, but developed characters open up the wine. Drink now to 5 years.

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.8). Following on from the excellent 2008, this is another cracker! Pristine fruit on the nose in the tropical spectrum with pulpy passion fruit. The palate is really quite tight at the moment and a bit closed. Fruit really builds in the mouth. Will develop over the next 6 months.

Evans and Tate – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2005 (17.7). A complex wine that shows better balance than the Wildberry Springs. There are floral characters to open and the palate is creamy and textured with some cashew and almond meal. Quite seamless and well balanced. Zesty acid keeps the finish fresh. On sale from the winery at under $25.

Clairault – Estate – Chardonnay – 2006 (17.5+). More complex than the standard wine, with barrel ferment and creamy oak. Lemony fruit with tight minerally texture, this really builds. Fine oak adds to the texture and mouth feel. This will evolve well and will get higher points in a year or two.

Clairault – Estate – Cabernet Merlot – 2003 (17). Leafy, tobacco and mocha on the nose. There are savoury red fruits on a complex palate. The finish is soft, round and generous, and represents good drinking. Lacks the depth and structure of the 2005.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.8). A lighter style, with fresh lemony fruit and a creamy texture. There is musk, peaches and light oak on a fresh palate. Ready to go.

27 September 2009

A mixed bag, but with a couple of wines that are really drinking well. The Pemberley sauvignon blanc is a lovely drink, and the Silkwood pinot noir is a savoury wine with real appeal.

Reviewed

Pemberley of Pemberton – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.6). This is pretty special. Very pale colour. The nose has passion fruit concentrate with floral characters, musk and spice. The palate reminds me of passiona soft drink. Long with a touch of sherbet to close. (Very more-ish and perhaps deserving higher marks, but it is a sauvignon blanc after all).

Silkwood – Pinot Noir – 2005 (17.5). Complex earthy nose but with ripe red fruits apparent. Some cinnamon and spice too. The palate has bright red fruits and is both complex and long. The fruit really builds with air and the palate is long and fine. Fine tannin grip and savoury oak add to the savoury characters. This drank really well the next night. (Caveat – Sealed with a cork).

ReVeur – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.3). Opens with fresh sour cherries and blackcurrant, with subtle oak adding complexity. The palate starts off quite closed with some toasty oak apparent. This is a refined wine that builds really sweet fruit with air. The finish is long and dense. A modern style and quite different to the Silkwood.

Port Phillip Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (17). Grassy nose with gooseberry and asparagus. Quite developed in the mouth with creamy and textured mouth feel. A worked style with some oak input adding complexity. Would go well with food.

Otuwhero Estate – O:TU – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (16.9). Typical NZ style with lantana and tropical fruit. The palate is rich, textured and balanced. Really builds in the mouth with tropical fruit and a touch of pineapple. Long and viscous, this wine has poise. Perhaps a touch more developed than some.

Frogmore Creek – Pinot – 2006 (16.5). Dense, texture with dusty tannins. Oak seams to shut down the finish, but it may evolve.

20th August 2009

There were some high quality wines in the chardonnay bracket, but this tasting highlighted a few important points about the new breed of Western Australian chardonnays. The style has evolved thoroughly, and the modern wines are much leaner and more elegant than many of their predecessors.

The down side of this is that the wines are less approachable when very young. The higher acidity and leaner fruit has been combined with a more subtle approach to the use of oak and winemaker inputs.

Another factor that is influencing the style of the wine is the use of screw caps to seal the bottle. There is no doubt that these keep the wines fresher than a cork.

So what does this mean for this week’s tasting? Many of the wines have just been released and this makes them hard to assess. As I look through my notes, I feel that the points given do not quite reflect the quality of the wine. Many of these wines will improve with a year or two in the bottle. Besides the chardonays, look out for the Moss Wood Merlot. I am not a big fan of straight merlot as I feel that most producers are unsure as to what style of wine they should be making. The Moss Wood however is a stunning example.

Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale – Merlot – 2007 (18.4). Dense and closed nose. There is black currant and fresh plums on the nose. The palate is complex, with juicy high quality fruit. The lovely tannins, fine knit vanillin oak and a lovely souring finish define the palate. This dense and very fine wine will evolve for many years.

Cape Naturalist – The Westerly Paddock – Merlot – 2007 (17.5+). Better than some here. Opens with plummy fruit that is both fragrant and spicy. Think red currant fruit and there is cedary oak to round out an enticing nose. The palate is savoury and mouth watering. The fruit is shut down by very fine powdery tannins. There is also a touch of menthol to close. This is a powerful wine that will benefit from 5-8 years cellaring.

Juniper Estate – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.5+). Supple and fresh. Creamy and complex. This is an expensively made wine. The palate is expressive and quite seamless. The fine knit oak is suppressing the fruit right now. Will be very good.

Fraser Gallop – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.4). Balanced and complex wine. Some peach on the nose with creamy overtones. The palate is long but in a leaner style. There is worked barrel ferment characters and vanillin oak to close. Modern style.

Castelli – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.3). This is fresh and vibrant with white peach and lemon on the nose. The palate has ripe stone fruit, melon and nuttiness to close. The oak is still integrating. This really improved after being open for a while, and will improve for several years.

Deep Woods – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2008 (17). Almond meal and minerals on the nose, but quite tight. The palate has good quality fruit has stone fruit characters. The oak grip is a bit dominant now, but opened up nicely in the bottle. Modern lean style that will improve in the bottle.

Chalice Bridge – The Chalice – Chardonnay – 2007 (17). Creamy, lemon, minerals and a touch of spice. Complex long and fragrant, with balance and poise.

Cape Naturalist – Torpedo Rock – Merlot – 2005 (16.8). A lighter, fresher style with aromatic fruit. The palate is leaner than the Howard Park (a good thing), with elegant red fruits. Not that complex, but a good drink.

Howard Park – Best Barrels – Merlot– 2003 (16.7). Dense, with licorice, plum and intense black fruit. The palate continues on the theme with dense, chewy, layered fruit. The finish is textured. Not my style.

Charlies Estate – Regional Selection – Merlot – 2006 (16.7). An unusual style. Savoury and spicy fruit. The palate is quite complex and savoury with tobacco leaf to close. Not typical.

Pemberley of Pemberton – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.6). This is quite interesting, with mineral and spice on the nose. More overt than some here, but not quite as complex. Oak a little more obvious.

Windance – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.5). Floral and fragrant nose with surprising depth to the palate. With apricot fruit on a long, lean finish.