Woodlands: A focussed approach
12th December 2024
At a time when there is a trend for an ever-expanding range of wines being made at a number of Australian wineries, it is refreshing to see Woodlands focusing on what they do best.
Yes, for those on the mailing list there is an assortment of small batch wines made available from time to time but in the main the focus is primarily on chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon.
And that single minded approach pays off handsomely when you look at the quality of the wines available.
With the original chardonnay vineyards at the winery now in the process of being rehabilitated there is a painfully small volume of Chloe Chardonnay being made each year, with the few hundred bottles made not released beyond the mailing list.
So the focus for now is on The Woodlands Brook vineyard. This vineyard was purchased in 2008, with chardonnay plantings occurring from 2012, primarily to Gingin clone. With the number of vintages under their belt, the winemaking team have been able to refine the style and whilst the current releases are quite superb, they are still looking to finesse the style in years to come.
There are 10 blocks of chardonnay on the vineyard, with each block vinified separately, allowing the winemaking team to quickly hone the style to best suit the varied vineyard characteristics.
The other focus for Woodlands is their cabernet-based wines. The fruit comes from the original vineyards, Woodlands Brook vineyard as well as some longer-term grower vineyards for the entry level wines.
I sat down with Sam Badger, the senior winemaker in charge of day-to-day operations to look through the range. He highlighted that, with chardonnay, there was no desire to chase the current trend of leaner chardonnays seen elsewhere.
The focus is on full flavoured wines that leverage high-quality ripe fruit.
With the reds, a great deal of attention is paid to ensuring that the tannins are polished to enable the fruit to shine and have a degree of approachability now, without jeopardising longevity.
What was most notable with the reds, especially the top cabernet, was the way that the vintage conditions expressed in the personality of the wines.
Whilst there is a lot written about the wonderful 2018, 2020 and 2022 vintages, at Woodlands, the cooler 2019 and 2021 vintages also presented compelling wines, where the pretty fruit aromatics really shone.
These vintages may not be quite as long lived, but may well offer better drinking over the first 5 – 10 years of their life which, in reality, is when most of the wines will be consumed.
The vineyards were certified organic in 2020, though had been managed under organic principles for a decade before hand.
Woodlands – Wilyabrup Valley – Chardonnay – 2023. Fruit for this wine comes from two long term growers in the region. I was struck by how pretty the floral fruit is; ripe and inviting, with subtle, nutty winemaking inputs adding depth. The mouthfeel is a highlight, and the generosity of fruit a feature. Whilst this is 100% Gingin clone, it is a very subtle expression, with stone fruit the feature rather than the more tropical notes seen in some. Wild yeast ferment in oak hogsheads (20% new). 13.0% – 93pts – $42.
Woodlands – Woodlands Brook Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2023. More intensity to the fruit on the nose and palate, and the winemaking notes are pared back compared to the 2022 vintage of the same wine. The mouthfeel is where this really shines, with a lovely creamy texture coating the palate from end to end. Whilst the intensity is impressive, the elegance and poise here are the highlights for me. Very good indeed. Wild ferment in oak puncheons (40% new). 95pts – $60.
Woodlands – Clementine – Cabernet Blend – 2021. From the Woodlands Brook Vineyard. Fruit presents quite differently to other Woodlands vineyards, with smaller berries that have a firmer structure. The fruit is hand sorted prior to crushing, to ensure only pristine fruit makes it into the blend. Opens with a wonderful nose, the berry fruit leaping from the glass. On the palate, the red fruits give way to a more savoury tannin structure, with souring cherry acidity adding freshness and life. Despite this, the mouthfeel is excellent, with the palate transition being near seamless, despite the graphite-like tannins and savoury mocha notes that sit under the fruit adding depth. 45% cabernet sauvignon, 23% malbec, 22% merlot and 10% petit verdot. 13.5% alc – 95 pts.
Woodlands – Margaret – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. From the Woodlands Vineyard in front of the cellar door, from vines planted in the early 1990s. A blend of cabernet 70%, merlot 15% and malbec 15%. Much more open and accessible straight out of the bottle compared to the Clementine, with plush ripe fruit a feature. This is a bit deceptive, as underneath this, there is a layer of firm tannins and supple oak that really builds in the glass and in the mouth. Drink now, or later. the choice is yours, but both options will bring great pleasure. 40% new oak. 13.5% alc – 94+pts.
Woodlands – Xavier – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. The depth and intensity on the nose are outstanding. So much power, yet this remains supple, near seamless and quite wonderful. This is the archetypal iron fist in a velvet glove. Yes, it is approachable, but there is great depth and power sitting behind the fruit. I have reviewed this wine several times and, if anything, it is even better now. From a ripe, powerful year, this is a classic. Fruit comes from the original vineyard plantings in the 1970s. 100% new oak. A splash of malbec and cabernet franc rounds out the blend. 13.5 % alc – 97 pts.
Woodlands – Ruby Jane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Cooler year, producing brilliantly fragrant fruit. Much more supple and accessible than either the 2018 or the 2020, this is a finer style, though no less serious. A sleeper, as the pretty fruit is a focus. Yet there is marvellous structure sitting behind this leading to a finish that is silky, supple. A brilliant effort, and my pick to drink over the next 5 – 8 years. 13.5% alc – 95+pts.
Woodlands – Eleanor – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. A beautiful blend of the styles seen in the 2018 and 2019. There are lovely floral fruit characters that are evident in the 2019, with supple savoury structure sitting underneath. Like the 2018, the tannins are plentiful, but are polished and refined, becoming a texturing feature rather than a dominant characteristic. Incredible length of flavours with blue and black fruit building. In the 18 months since I first tasted this wine, this has come together beautifully and, from my perspective at least, may be the best wine released under this label.13.5% alc – 97pts.