Swinney – Farvie – 2022 Vintage in Focus
5th May 2024
Right at the start, let me make one thing clear. The 2022 vintage Farvie reds from Swinney are outstanding. And the wines have been highly lauded, with Brendan Jansen MW going so far as to pronounce the 2022 Farvie Mourvèdre the best wine he had tried in the last twelve months.
Reviewing the wines, however, required the most analysis of any wines that I have tasted in recent times and there was a lot to unpack to get to the heart of these wines. This was because the wines presented in a way that is different to most wines reviewed.
In the end, I tasted the wines over a five day period, with their personalities really developing over that time.
On opening, the wines were extremely refined and elegant, with the extraordinary texture being the feature that underlined the inherent quality. Whilst the shiraz and grenache also showed superb fruit, the mourvèdre in particular was very shy.
One day two, the wines seemed to regress further into their shells, with the textural mouthfeel being the defining character. If anything, the wines were at their least exciting at this point, but provided an excellent counterpoint to a rich lamb ragout.
One day three, the fruit started to come into its own, and the wines started to drink delightfully.
Day four is when it all came together, especially for the mourvèdre. The fruit positively exploded from the glass, all the while supported by the fine tannins and acidity.
Even on day five, the wines were still holding up well, though the structure was starting to break up a bit.
If you are going to drink any of the wines in their youth, then the grenache would be my pick, given its delightful berry fruit. The shiraz is also wonderful drinking, but its best is surely years in the future.
As for the mourvèdre, this is a wine that will handsomely repay time in the cellar.
In conclusion, these are some of the best wines to come out of the region, but they are wines that demand your attention to ensure that they give the most pleasure possible.
Reviewed.
Swinney – Farvie – Grenache – 2022. Great colour in the glass and wonderfully pure, pretty grenache fruit on the nose. And on the palate this explodes into life. Yes, it is fine, elegant and structured, but the fruit is an absolute joy to behold. Ripe plum, echoes of liquorice, cinnamon and an almost umami-like savoury goodness add to the enjoyment. The finish is a highlight, as it is silky and finely textured. Counterintuitively, the fruit seemed to recess back into the wine over time and took a full three days to show its best. If you must drink one of the Farvies now, then this is the one that I recommend. 28% whole bunch, wild ferment, 11 months in oak (0% new) 14.0% alc – 96pts – $150.
Swinney – Farvie – Syrah – 2022. The colour in the glass is just amazing and there is sensational red berry fruit. In the mouth, this is very fine, elegant. supple and subtle, yet at the same time this has tremendous impact and wonderful intensity. The length and persistence of flavours is outstanding, as is the purity of the fruit. Gentle spice and amazing texture are supported by the finest of tannins that add silkiness and structure, but do not impede the flow of the fruit in the slightest. Irresistible now, but sure to age for decades if you can keep your hands off it. Remarkably, this had 65% whole bunch in the (wild) ferment. 14 months in oak (0% new) 13.5% alc, 97pts – $150
Swinney – Farvie – Mouvedre – 2022. This is quite a different beast. It is just as fine and elegant as the other Farvies, but here, the fruit takes on a very different tone. Rather than berries or plum, this is much more savoury, with an almost earthy character running the length of the palate. Minerality, chalky tannins and balancing acidity all serve to keep the fruit in check. A fascinating insight into the variety, but also into the way a wine can evolve (for the better) once opened. On days 1 – 3, I much preferred the Syrah and grenache, but on day four, this came into its own, the rich berry fruit positively bursting from the glass. I was stunned by the transformation. 66% whole bunch, 11 months in oak (0% new), 14.1% alc, 95+pts – $150.