23 March 2010

What does a good merlot taste like?

This is a question that I have asked myself many times. In Australia, merlot is as much a descriptor of a style of wine as it is a reference to a grape variety. Merlots (and cabernet/merlot blends) have a reputation amongst wine drinkers as being softer and easier drinking than wines labelled Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wineries have realised that the consumer is looking for a particular style in these wines and have moved further towards these softer, easier to drink styles. In this week’s panel tasting, we looked at a cross section of cabernets and merlots. There were two pairs of wines that demonstrated the styles that I have been describing.

The Castelli merlot is an excellent example of the easy drinking style. The wine has high quality fruit and excellent winemaking. The Heggies merlot is made in completely different style. This is a very structured wine that will benefit from many years in the cellar. The wines are chalk and cheese in style, yet both are very good examples of the merlot. I still do not know what a merlot is supposed to taste like, but these are fine examples!

The two wines from Juniper Estate further illustrated these stylistic differences. The cabernet/merlot is forward and fruit driven, while the cabernet sauvignon is structured and quite tannic. Drink the blend while you wait for the straight varietal. Obviously, this style difference is a generalisation with wines like the Cullen’s cabernet/merlot not fitting the easy drinking style.

Finally, there were a few standout wines. The Houghton Gladstone 2004 is a superstar, a spectacular wine in anyone’s language. This wine is expensive, and it deserves to be so. At the other end of the price spectrum, the Houghton “Stripe Range” cabernet/merlot and the Wynns cabernet/shiraz/merlot are fantastic wines for the price. These wines will be discounted to $8 and $12 respectively. Neither wine tastes cheap and both significantly over deliver in quality.

Tasted

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstone – 2004 (18.5). More mint and a touch of eucalypt to what is a serious wine. Powerful fruit is balanced by fresh acidity and a fine tannin structure. Yes, there is some new oak, but it really only plays a support role. Chewy finish adds to the palate. Give it 5-10 years.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstone – 2005 (18+). Amazing nose on this with ripe fruit, chocolate and coffee. Well made wine with a silky mouth feel. The structure is tight and fine and this wine is at the start of its life. Not yet released and will need several years to come out of the shadows of the 2004.

Heggies – Merlot – 2007 (18). Dusty, dense and briary on the nose, this is a serious wine that demands attention. The palate is big, rich and brooding with layers of dense fruit complemented by cedary oak. The long finish has balance. This is a masculine wine that demands aging. One for the aficionados. (RRP $40).

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18). Wow, lovely wine with some tobacco leaf over ripe, structured fruit. Dense and deep, this has great line. The palate is seamless and whilst not a huge wine, there is great structure that ensures a long future. Excellent fruit quality and high class oak need time to mesh completely.

Castelli – Merlot – 2008 (17.8). The nose is dense, sweet and ripe. The fresh red fruit characters come to the fore. The palate is flooded with red currant, spice and a touch of vanilla and cedar to close. This is really silky and supple with fine tannins on a long finish. There is enough structure to please the enthusiast and take some bottle age. I challenge anyone not to like this wine. (RRP $25).

Wynns – Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot – Red Stripe – 2008 (17.7). Closed and dumb nose hint at potential. There is ripe fruit on the palate, with redcurrants and spice. Fine tannins complement the finish. Good mouth-feel with structure that builds in the glass. A pretty wine that will look good for many years. A bargain!

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (17.5). Dense, ripe fruit with dusty complexity. Some cedar and even cigar box over lovely blackcurrant fruit. The palate is structured, grippy and firm, with oak tannins overwhelming the fruit right now. Will open and improve with time, but drink the blend now.

Houghton – Cabernet/Merlot – Stripe Range – 2008 (17). Quite serious fruit here with minty eucalypt fruit that appears ripe. The silky mouth-feel defines a palate that shows blackcurrant and spice. There is a touch of chocolaty complexity on the finish of what is a balanced and well-made wine. A bargain!

Voyager – Cabernet/Merlot – Girt By Sea – 2008 (16.8). Some dusty cabernet characters with some capsicum and spice. Quite an herbal palate, with hints of red fruits. Dusty finish. Well made with varietal expression and should improve in the short term.

James Oatley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Tic Tok – 2008 (16.8). Much more forward and fruit driven style. Bright red fruits with a hint of ribena. Follows on the palate with fine fresh fruits and a touch of strawberry even. A commercial style that is easy to drink.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet/Merlot – Juniper’s Crossing – 2008 (16.7) Forward and fruity nose, with some raspberry characters. The palate initially pleases with forward red fruit, but there is enough structure to keep things interesting.