12/12/09

The advantage of doing a blind tasting is that it enables you as the taster to get a perspective of what you are tasting without being biased by the label. And this proved so when we tried a selection of new release cabernet based wines.

The first thing that this tasting reinforced was the quality of the 2007 vintage in WA. It also highlighted that 2008 will be as good, if not better than 2007 if these early results are repeated in subsequent tastings.

Another point that stood out is that tasting numerous young cabernets can be hard work. At times I found it hard to see the fruit behind the firm structure that these wines displayed. Ultimately, many of the wines will score higher marks with time in the bottle, and I would be happy to recommend many of them to you. If you are going to drink them young though, decant them an hour or two before drinking to get the most out of them.

Tasted

Yalumba – Cabernet/Shiraz – FDR1A – 2004 (18.5). Wow. Cassis and spice, with a minerality that adds complexity. A touch herbal (a good thing), this is complex and intriguing. The palate is dense, ripe and forward. This is a warmer expression of cabernet than most here. There is even a touch of leather to the plum fruit. Super wine.

Howard Park – Cabernet – Abercrombie – 2007 (18/18.5). This is dense, savoury and very long. There is great fruit here and the wine is well made. The palate is very closed and dense. Chalky tannins to close are very fine, and the palate is finely textured. Give it lots of time.

Pedestal – Cabernet/Merlot – 2008 (18+). Closed on the nose, but has potential. The palate is dense, ripe, powerful and firm. Very drying tannins close the finish, but these are fine and ripe. This has high quality fruit, but needs ten years to show its best.

Preveli – Cabernet/Merlot – 2007 (18). Seductive violet and redcurrant. These carry through on the relatively seamless palate. Fine and elegant, this has classy fruit and winemaking. Supple and silky. This is a fine wine.

Barking Owl – Cabernet/Merlot – 2007 (17.8). Fine and elegant, the palate is defined by lovely red fruits and fine cedary oak that adds interest to the palate. Fine tannins are drying. One panellist suggested that clever winemaking techniques had been employed.

Flametree – Cabernet/Merlot – 2008 (17.75). This is dense, ripe and has sweet cabernet fruit of mint and blackcurrant juice. The density follows on a palate that is silky, complex, savoury, ripe, long and fine. This is elegant, but dense and has violets to close.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet/Merlot – Verse 1 – 2007 (17.5). This is tight but quite complete. Long, fine with supple oak that has cedary characters. The palate is quite seamless. One for the patient.

Castelli – Cabernet/Merlot – Cerca – 2008 (17). More forward and approachable nose. Ripe with red fruits. Long and fine finish. Not as dense as some, but offers better early drinking. Still has the capacity to age though.

Lamont’s – Cabernet – 2007 (17). Less forward than some here and herbal characters are evident on the nose. The palate shows sweet fruit characters with redcurrant, tar, anise and spice. There is touch of plum too. Not as complex or dense, but good drinking.

Moombaki – Cabernet/Cabernet Franc/Malbec – 2007 (17). A touch of old fashioned earthy characters on the nose, but the palate is initially bright and fresh. This bottle was showing some developed characters. Long and supple, with leathery notes on the finish. Satisfying.

Lamont’s – Family Reserve – 2007 (16.9). Opens with air. Sweet, ripe fruit with a touch of candy on the palate. Forward style, but has enough body to make for good drinking. The palate is a touch hollow. (15.5% alc).

Taltarni – Cabernet/Merlot – 2006 (16.9). Very dumb and closed on the nose, but showing some minty fruit. The palate is dusty, silky and very fine. This may evolve in the medium term.

Devil’s Lair – Cabernet/Merlot – 2006 (16.5). Cooler southern Margaret River fruit apparent on the nose. Complex briary characters with savoury tones. Well made but struggles for ripeness in this challenging year.

Xabregas – Cabernet – Show Reserve – 2007 (16.5). The fruit here is in the plum spectrum. The palate is dense and chewy, long but a bit clunky. An interesting wine that may polarise.