12 January 2011

The middle of summer is not the most obvious time to hold a cabernet tasting, so it was fortunate that the tasting room was air-conditioned. It was the temperature of the wine that received the most discussion however.

All wines in this tasting were served at 19 degrees C, a temperature that I think is ideal to serve red wines. One panellist felt that the wines were too cold to allow the fruit to be expressed properly. This is a thorny issue that comes down to personal preference. It is easier to warm a wine in the glass than to cool it down.

So to the wines… As you would expect, the Devils Lair was impressive and the Deepwoods – Reserve continues to impress. The surprise for me was the Timber Creek. An impressive wine by any standard.

Tasted

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2008 (18.3). Intense and dense varietal fruit on the nose with blackcurrant, cinnamon, menthol and a touch of cedary oak. Fantastic quality fruit and wine-making. The oak is a touch forward now, but the silky ripe fruit will build with time in the bottle. Very modern, this really has everything.

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.2). Lovely fragrant cabernet fruit on the nose. There is menthol, blackcurrant and cedar. The palate is soft, round, generous and extraordinarily fine and long. This is a very classy wine. Silky and seamless palate that really builds, the line and length are spot on.

Saltram – Cabernet Sauvignon – Winemakers Selection – 2008 (18+). Another impressive wine, but not as overt as some here. Chocolate fruit suggests a warmer region. The fruit is more to the plum spectrum. The palate is solid, dense and tight, with licorice to close. A very well made wine with good texture and mouth-feel. Should have received a gold medal as this is a seriously goof wine, but it did not scream classic cabernet.

Timber Creek – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Dense and powerful cabernet fruit on the nose. Mint, menthol, cedar, spice and eucalypt. Ripe fruit and quality wine-making. A fine wine that is good drinking.

Saltram – Cabernet Sauvignon – Mamre Brook – 2008 (17.7). Another quality wine with ribena and plum fruit on the nose. This is in a different style reflecting Barossa fruit. A touch more astringent than the others here courtesy of the oak that is yet to fully integrate. Menthol and mocha on the finish, this has excellent mouth-feel and will develop for many years.

Aldersyde – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.5). Peppermint characters to the fore, typical of Coonawarra with a touch of herbal notes. Touch of insect spray and quality fruit. More of the same on the palate, with a dense, powerful finish that is very long. Excellent mouth-feel and intensity.

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (17.5). Dense and closed. This has dark fruits with a hint of chocolate and even licorice. Very silky and round, the high quality fruit and wine-making are immediately obvious.

Rymill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.5). The nose has a touch of chocolate and spice to open. The fruit on the palate is very dense and impenetrable The tannins from the oak and fruit shut down the fruit leaving a very chalky finish. This is a powerful, high quality wine that needs years to shine, though it is a different style to the wines from Margaret River.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (17.5). Lovely ripe aromas of blackcurrant with some menthol and mint running through the nose. Soft, generous and silky palate, with very fine and dusty tannins providing grip on the finish. Satisfying medium bodied wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2004 (17.5). Somewhat developed and dusty nose. Some blackcurrant and a hint of cassis. Quite soft and generous. The palate is rich and dense with a touch of chocolate to the fruit. Long and satisfying bottle age complexity makes this a standout. A dark berry plus herbaceous.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – Embers – 2009 (17.2). Quite dumb on the nose to start. The palate is flooded with ripe fruit that is neither heavy or cloying. The wine is more medium bodied, with oak only in the background. Well made, accessible and excellent value.

Palmer – Shiraz – 2003 (17). Rich wine, with more chocolate and dark fruits. The palate has coffee, mocha and spice. Satisfying without being overly complex. A sound wine that is developing nicely.

Madbay – Shiraz – 2008 (16.9). Fresh, almost purple hue. The nose is an intriguing blend of ripe cherries and red berries with a lovely savoury, almost sappy undertone. Fresh and juicy plum and cherry on the palate, this is great drinking. (Made by Howard Park/Madfish).