Reviewed – 2 June 2011

Like many things in life, the law of diminishing returns applies to wine. As the price goes up, the increase in quality gets progressively less. There is no doubt that going from $10 to $20 for a bottle of wine will deliver a significantly superior wine. But the difference between a $50 and $100 wine is often not so clear.

I mention this because every rule has an exception and, in this tasting, the Vasse Felix – Heytsebury is the exception. At close to $90 per bottle, it was clearly better than everything else here and is worth every cent.

If your budget does not stretch quite that far, then the wines from Brookland Valley, Devils Lair, Houghton and Leeuwin Estate are all worthy alternatives.

A word on value. The 2010 Bordeauxs are currently being sold via indent. The early reports are that the wines are very good. You can buy a good entry level wine for around $50 and the top wines are likely to be in excess of $1000 per bottle. You have to pay for the wines now and will receive them in 2013.

Any of the wines reviewed below represent far better value. You would struggle to find a Bordeaux for less than $100 that could match these wines and the Heytsebury, whilst different in style, is the equal of the best.

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2008 (18.6). Very pretty fruit here. The nose is actually quite floral and perfumed, hinting at red fruits and violets. The floral notes continue in the mouth. This is a pretty wine with great appeal. Whilst this is very fine and elegant, there is great power and concentration of fruit and superb mouth-feel and texture. The oak is fully integrated and the tannins are extraordinarily fine. High quality fruit and winemaking make for a spectacular wine at any price.

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.2). Cool climate fruit to the fore. There are herbal and menthol notes, but the underlying fruit is perfectly ripe. Very long and powerful, yet the palate retains the cooler region flavours. Opens to show dense, ripe and textured fruit of great appeal. A long term wine in the style of great Bordeaux.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (18). Silky, seductive nose that is ripe yet restrained. Cooler region fruit characters that show mint, eucalypt and gentle herbs. The palate is delicate and refined and the finish is silky and very long. Beautiful mouth-feel and quality fruit. Just needs a few years.

Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Scholar – Single Vineyard Series – 2008 (18+/-) Textbook nose. Concentrated, dense and ripe with restrained fruit. The palate is immensely proportioned, with smoky oak to close. Concentrated and very dense, this is a wine for the long haul. I struggled with this wine as there is so much concentrated fruit that it was hard to assess. Impossible to ignore, try a bottle and make up your own mind.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude – 2005 (17.8). Very good concentration of fruit here. Cedar, eucalypt, mint and dark fruits all caress the nose. The palate is very textured and structured and there is excellent length and concentration. The finish shows silky tannins and a near seamless palate. Shows the benefit of a few extra years in the bottle, but will live for some time yet.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wisdom – 2009 (17.8). Closed, but with fairly straight-forward (high quality) fruit notes. The palate is varietally correct and full of juicy fruit. Builds concentration in the mouth. Has plenty of potential in a more obvious style. After two days on the tasting bench, this really opened up. Smart wine.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2009 (17). Mint and cedar on the nose. The palate is cedary and long. The primary fruit is subdued but there is plenty of interest in the palate. Opens to show lovely fruit. Will get better points in a few years.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (17). Well rounded and balanced nose. Nicely weighted and textured, with enough character to make for a good drink. Not the most concentrated, but enjoyable.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – (Red Stripe) – 2010 (16.3). Lovely fresh nose that has purity to the fruit notes. A fruit-forward style that is simple but satisfying. A good value easy drinking red.