18 October 2010

In the lead-up to this weeks Margaret River versus Great Southern at the Hyatt, John Jens asked the panel to look at a few of the wines that he was considering including in the line up.

To make things more interesting, I included a few of the samples that had arrived in the last few weeks. This proved to be a masterstroke, as there were a couple of real surprises.

The Deepwoods Reserve and the Flametree Reserve were both outstanding. It was less surprising that wine like the Heytesbury showed so well. It is important to point out that there are no bad wines here and personal preference has an important role to play.

Reviewed

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon– Reserve – 2008 (18.6). Another lovely nose, with pretty fruits and a touch of oak in the background. The palate is restrained, yet the fruit is perfectly ripe and the balance superb. The length is a highlight as is the mouth-feel and texture. A rare wine! This wine was the best drinking of all the wines on tasting. Whilst the wine will probably age well, I would drink it over the next five years while waiting for the Heytesbury and Flametree.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2008 (18.5+). In a word…pretty. A wine of real power and distinction. There are herbal notes and even a touch of cut grass and black fruits on the nose, and cedary oak adds complexity. Very dense palate, the quality of the fruit is outstanding. The palate is seamless, yet dense and powerful. Despite all this, the wine manages to show restraint. Outstanding length is a real feature as are the finest of tannins. A superstar in the making.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2008 (18.5). Unfortunately, my tasting notes for this wine were lost, but the structure was the highlight here. The fruit was dense and inky, and the length of flavours was impressive. The fine tannins made their presence felt, but there is no doubt that the quality fruit will shine through over the next 10 years.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2005 (18). Mortien (a good thing), cool fruit notes, mint, eucalypt and vanillin oak. The fruit is ripe with red fruits to the fore, yet the palate is assertive, structured and tight. Needs 10 years to start to show its best. (This wine was never commercially released. The wine tasted here was a sample courtesy of the winery).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Crofters – 2005 (18). Leather and spice over blackcurrant and violets. Powerful, restrained and quite seamless, this is full of latent power. Iron fist in a velvet glove. The length is superb and the flavours evolve. Textural treat, this remains balanced.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2005 (18). Minty and dusty, but an attractive nose. Ripe berry notes combined with chocolate/mocha fruit. Plush mouth-feel and texture. Very silky, the tannins are a highlight. There is a touch of eucalypt and herbs too.

Woodside Valley Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Baudin – 2008 (18). Classic nose. Eucalypt, cedar and minty notes on the nose. The palate is powerful, with red fruits and plenty of blackcurrant. The length is excellent, though the palate is a little disjointed at present. Some cherry and spice too. Very young, there is real potential.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2005 (17.8). Developed nose with raspberry, redcurrant, plum and cedary overtones. Spectacularly dense and powerful, this is complex, very textured and rich. The mouth-feel and texture are excellent. This is good short term drinking. (Points were a little split on this wine).

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon – Estate – 2007 (17.5+). Dense and quite lovely nose. Cooler fruit, showing mint, eucalypt and red fruits. Very pretty palate, this is forward and floral. The finish is quite astringent yet the tannins are very fine. Persistent, this will flesh out in the mid palate and score higher points in the future.

Hardys – Cabernet Sauvignon – Limited Cellar Release – 2005 (17.5). Very pretty, even floral nose with rose and violets. Colour developing. A more angular wine than some here, all components are in place but this will integrate with another couple of years. (An amazing bargain at $10-$15 from Vintage Cellars).

Forrest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Block 5 – 2004 (17.5). Again, a touch more developed reflecting the vintage. Menthol, cedar, and cinnamon quill on the nose. Round and soft fruit initially on the palate, there is still plenty tannic grip. Well balanced and needing a couple more years to show its best.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon– Scottsdale – 2005 (17.5). Lovely nose that is classy and silky. Seductive really, with cedar and spice. The palate is firm and chewy. The tannins remain firm and grippy. There is still plenty of fruit, but this will remain structured through its life. Good drinking all the same.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2008 (17.5+). A very hard wine to review. Like the 2008 Cullen Diana Madeleine (reviewed previously) this is an incredibly fine wine. The palate is reserved and tight, yet the tannins are so silky and fine that it is easy to underestimate the quality here. After 4 days on the tasting bench, the pretty red fruits started to open and shine.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.3). Closed and dumb to start. Silky and really quite fine, this is elegant and refined. Medium bodied and elegant, the palate is an exercise in restraint. Delicate fruit combine with silky textural components in a seamless package. Lacks the density of the best, but a good drink all the same.

Plantagenet – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Omrah – 2007 (17). Dense and impenetrable nose. Some dusty/cedary notes. Very rich palate, this is very dense and textured, with savoury notes to close. There is a touch of sweet and sour components to the fruit, which prevented me awarding higher points, but this still represents value.