New Release

14 December 2010

When I consider the Margaret River region as a whole, Cape Mentelle rates amongst the best. As with wineries such as Mosswood and Vasse Felix, it is the strength of the entire range, rather than an individual wine, that makes Cape Mentelle stand out from the crowd. Their cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc/semillon blend are all amongst the best of their styles from the region.

We are blessed that these wineries are in Australia rather than the left bank in Bordeaux, the historical home of great cabernet based wines. Producers in Bordeaux are constrained by tradition and regulation in what they can produce. Australian wineries are free to plant any suitable grape variety and make wines in a variety of styles.

Over time, it has become obvious that some varieties and regions are particularly well suited. The Great Southern has a special affinity for riesling and shiraz for example. Margaret River’s fame is based on cabernet sauvignon, though it is clear that chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and semillon are also equally at home here.

Rob Mann, the senior winemaker at Cape Mentelle, was in town recently to show their new release wines. This year sees and expanded range of wines with the addition of the Wilyabrup red and the repackaging of the range to reflect the different quality levels.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon -2010 (17.7). A very grassy style. There is gooseberry and passionfruit on a very complex nose. The palate is complex and long, with a bone dry finish. The fruit characters are in the lime juice theme and there is a creamy, textured mouth-feel. The semillon component was barrel fermented.

Cape Mentelle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Wallcliffe – 2008 (18.1+). This is very reminiscent of white Bordeaux. Yes, there are grassy notes, but this offers so much more! There are hints of minerals, spice and complex “worked” aromas courtesy of slick wine-making. The palate is all about texture. The fruit is subdued but the creamy mouth-feel would carry food well. Impressive.

Cape Mentelle – Chardonnay – 2009 (18). Very tight and closed. The nose is clean and fresh, with nectarine and peach aromas. The palate is seamless and supple, with a silky mouth-feel. Really needs 3-5 years to show its true potential.

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 2008 (18). Wow. Really juicy fruit in the plum spectrum, with classic black pepper running over the top of licorice and mulberry. The peppery fruit continues on the palate, but the fine oak and tannins shut down the finish. Silky and long, this has a bright future.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2008 (17). Great nose for an entry level wine (though the Marmaduke probably fits that bill better). Blackcurrant, cedar and spice are evident. The palate is firm and quite tight, but with good length. Fruit concentration builds, but falls short of others in this tasting.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – Wilyabrup – 2008 (17.8+). Very closed to start, this develops rich and complex red fruit aromas on the nose. The palate is very fine. There is cedar and spice over lovely fresh fruit characters. Whilst fine and elegant, this wine remained very closed, with chalky tannins flattening the fruit. Very smart, but requires patience and a bit of faith as this will be better in 5 years and will last for many more. 400 cases made.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18.5). A real step up in fruit concentration on the nose, with red fruits, cedar, licorice, tar and cloves. The palate is dense and brambly, with blackcurrant fruit. There is a great deal of complexity and excellent length carried by chewy yet fine tannins.