4th November 2009

I took the opportunity to pop in and see the team at Clairault while I was in Margaret River recently. The winery has been on a bit of a roller coaster over the last few years since the Martin family purchased the venture in 1999 from the Lewis family. The new ownership brought changes in the vineyard and the winery, which resulted in inconsistent wines for a few years whilst the changes were bedded down.

This all seems to be behind them now and winemaker Will Shields is producing some fantastic wines. The two that stood out were the 2009 Sauvignon Blanc and the 2005 Estate Cabernet.

I visited Evans and Tate, and their 2005 Reserve Chardonnay is worth a look at the price. I also tried the Vasse Felix tempranillo whilst away and was surprised to see authentic characters in the wine.

Tasted

Clairault – Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon (18.2). Dense, ripe and complex, this has impressive structure and fine oak. The palate is silky with cedar and ripe fruit tannins. Licorice fruit adds to the lovely mouth feel. The structure demands time in the cellar.

Evans and Tate – Cabernet – Reserve – 2002 (17.9). Quite developed. Lifted cassis with tar, tobacco leaf, plum and chocolate. The palate starts off lean, but developed characters open up the wine. Drink now to 5 years.

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.8). Following on from the excellent 2008, this is another cracker! Pristine fruit on the nose in the tropical spectrum with pulpy passion fruit. The palate is really quite tight at the moment and a bit closed. Fruit really builds in the mouth. Will develop over the next 6 months.

Evans and Tate – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2005 (17.7). A complex wine that shows better balance than the Wildberry Springs. There are floral characters to open and the palate is creamy and textured with some cashew and almond meal. Quite seamless and well balanced. Zesty acid keeps the finish fresh. On sale from the winery at under $25.

Clairault – Estate – Chardonnay – 2006 (17.5+). More complex than the standard wine, with barrel ferment and creamy oak. Lemony fruit with tight minerally texture, this really builds. Fine oak adds to the texture and mouth feel. This will evolve well and will get higher points in a year or two.

Clairault – Estate – Cabernet Merlot – 2003 (17). Leafy, tobacco and mocha on the nose. There are savoury red fruits on a complex palate. The finish is soft, round and generous, and represents good drinking. Lacks the depth and structure of the 2005.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.8). A lighter style, with fresh lemony fruit and a creamy texture. There is musk, peaches and light oak on a fresh palate. Ready to go.