A Boot-Full of Wine

My visit to the Fontodi winery occurred on a mild summer’s day, organised by my friend Maurizio Colia, who works for Antinori. Arriving a little early (unfashionably so, I might add, as this is Italy). I had some time to take in the breathtaking views from the front steps of the property. On my right was the beautiful hilltop town called Panzano in Chianti and before me lay the beautiful rolling Chianti hills. As is about average for the region I noted that the land was about 40% under vine, 40% still forested with the rest planted with other crops including olive trees.

By way of background, Fontodi produces Flaccianello, its flagship wine, and 100% Sangiovese. Not classed as a Chianti Classico for some of the same reasons that Isola and Olena’s Ceparello is not, the Flaccianello is one of the most sought after wines in Tuscany with a fantastic reputation. Fontodi’s Chianti Classico is at best a cracker of a wine which lets fruit, rather than oak, speak, and at worst one the purest old-style Chiantis around.

Few would have thought that when Giovanni Manetti bought a small piece of land (which included the famed Conca d’Oro, from whence Flaccianello is made) in 1968 that the Fontodi Winery would grow to take on the size it has. The property now comprises 150 ha of which 70 ha are under vine. 90% of all vines planted are Sangiovese, the 10% remaining comprising Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Malvasia. The winery, after a gradual move to organic status which began in 2000, was granted organic certification in 2008. The property even owns its own cow, contributing organic fertilizer!

The soils are primarily of galestro-schist and in between rows are planted herbs such as orzo (barley). The Church of San Leolino, just around the corner, contains the famous cross of Flaccianello, from which the winery’s most famous wine derives its name. All harvesting is done by hand.

Before being taken through a guided tasting we had an opportunity to have a look at the vineyard and then the magnificent new and ultramodern winery (still in construction with a large storage area still to be completed). The winery uses a gravity system. Grapes from different vineyards are fermented separately. Fermentation takes place over 20 to 30 days at a temperature of between 20 and 30°C, and only natural yeast is used. To aid extraction hydraulic punching down is employed. Malolactic fermentation then occurs in either large old butts (in the case of the Chianti Classico for example) or in French oak barriques. Yields range from 6000 kg per hectare for Chianti Classico to 3000 kg per hectare in the case of the Flaccianello.

Battonage is used in the barrels and after the malolactic fermentation the wine is transferred to barrels for further ageing. In the case of Chianti Classico used barrels are used, with 12 months aging; in the case of the Vigna del Sorbo (the Chianti Classico Riserva) 70% new oak is used for a period of two years. In the case of the Flaccianello 100% new oak is employed for 20 months, while the Syrah spends one year in 50% new French oak.

The Fontodi stable owns about 1200 barrels at any one time, and each barrel is used for a maximum of three vintages. Therefore 300 to 400 new barrels are bought per year. They order barrels which have either medium or no toasting.

The large bote or butts are replaced after 20 years.

Tasted

Fontodi – Chianti Classico DOCG – 2007 (17). This is 100% Sangiovese. As mentioned, the wine spends a year and in used French oak. Vines are less than 10 years old in this case, alcohol levels are 14.5% The wine is clean and crisp with an essence of cherries and typical tannic and acid levels of Sangiovese. No French varietal influence here! This is an old-style Chianti Classico and an example of faultless winemaking. For those who think that Italy produces only savoury, ‘dirty’ wines – look for a bottle of this wine at your importing retailer. If you can judge a winery by the quality of its Chianti Classico, this example puts Fontodi among the best in Chianti. 17 points

Fontodi – Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG – Vigna de Sorbo – 2006 (17.5). Made from vines 35 years old on average. It comprises 90% Sangiovese with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon; 70% new French oak is used, as outlined above. This was closed and a touch reductive to start. It soon opened up to exhibit a fine structure (aided by the Cabernet backbone) with elements of dark red fruits and chocolate intermingled on the palate. One for the cellar – for 5 years at least; preferably 10. 17.5 points

Fontodi – IGT – Flaccianello – 2007 (18). This spends, as mentioned, 20 months in new French oak. The oak was evident on the nose and still dominant. Beneath it, a rich array of fresh red fruits was evident with the 15% alcohol not in any way detracting. Acid, fruit flavours and aromas and tannins in exquisite balance, this wine is but a baby and will continue to age gracefully 10 years and beyond. 18 pts

Fontodi – Syrah – IGT – 2006 (17). (100% Syrah grades spend a year in French Oak, 50% of which is new). On the palate green peppercorn spiciness is intermixed with dark red and in particular plum fruit. Not bad for a non Aussie Syrah! 17 points

I have tasted and written about an aged Flaccianello (1994) I have tried in the last year – proving that the variety, in the right hands, and from the best sites, has an underestimated capacity to age.

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen