8 May 2010
Nicholas Belfrage MW is an authority on Italian wines. He has written several books and is a regular correspondent to leading wine magazines. Nick also acts as a wine broker and represents several top estates. Lamont’s in Cottesloe in conjunction with Negociants hosted a dinner for Nick recently where he showcased his northern Italian wines.
The highlight of the tasting for me was to see how differently pinot grigio can be made. The wine from Tiefenbrunner was a lovely drink resembling the wines of Alsace more than the Italian examples from central Italy. (In Alsace, the grape is labelled pinot gris). At $22.50, this represents very good value.
Whist the wines were not tasted blind, my unfamiliarity with the labels means that bias is unlikely to be a problem. A special thanks goes to John Jens for arranging the night and for allowing me to attended as a guest of Lamont’s.
Tasted
La Riva del Frati – Prosecco – NV (17). A good example here, with lifted apple fruit characters in a drier style. The palate is long, fresh and user friendly, with a touch of lees and a creamy finish. At $25, this is very user friendly.
Tiefenbrunner – Pinot Grigio – 2009 (17.8). From Alto Adige in the north, this has lovely floral fruit with musk and spice. Reminiscent of a wine from Alsace really. The palate is tight, fresh and quite dry. The tingling acidity leaves a lemon finish. Lamont’s have this for $22.50 which is excellent value.
Lis Neris – Pinot Grigio – 2007 (17.3). Not as aromatic as the Tiefenbrunner, but with zesty fruit. The palate has greater texture and viscosity with a touch of oiliness that adds appeal. Softer acid makes for a food friendly wine.
Cantine Pra – Soave – Classico – 2008 (17.5). Quite minerally this, with a nutty nose over mineral oil. The palate is oily, textured and creamy, partly due to the extended lees contact prior to bottling. (These wines see no oak). The finish is lemony and long, and the acids are quite soft. Good value.
Tiefenbrunner – Lagrein – Castel Turmhof – 2008 (17). Lagrein is an indigenous red grape of Italy. This was a wine in two parts. It opened with savoury, earthy (even stewed) fruit that appeared to represent some bottle development. The wine really opened up though with cranberries and red fruits that were almost in the pinot spectrum. The palate is fruit driven, but develops tar, licorice and a touch of orange peel to close. An interesting wine that should improve in the short term.
Allegrini – Valpolicella – 2008 (17). Fragrant and spicy, with red and black currant. The palate is simple, but vibrant and fresh. The fruit is in the cherry spectrum.
Allegrini – Palazzo della Torre – 2006 (18). More intense and dense, this is inky, with real density of fruit and good oak handling. Intense, with tar and spice on the palate. The oak grip complements the fruit. The finish gets all dusty and earthy. Impressive wine that will appeal to shiraz lovers. (30% of the crop is air dried prior to crushing).
Allegrini – La Grola – 2005 (18). From Verona, but bearing an IGT rating, this has rich, ripe fruit with cigar box and spice. The fruit starts off rich and dense on the palate, but has a souring “cherry pip” finish that is pleasing. A very smart wine that justifies the $50+ price tag.
Allegrini – Amarone – 2004 (17.7). Amarone is made from dried grapes, and this has taken on a somewhat raisined/porty character. While the palate is dense and builds fruit, there is a classic “peacock’s tail” effect where the fruit coats all parts of the palate with complex and evolving flavours and textures. I am not educated enough to fully appreciate what is obviously an outstanding wine. One for the aficionados.