12th September 2009

This week’s tasting was a bit of a licorice all–sorts. It was an opportunity to taste a few of the wines that had been kicking around for a few weeks. The highlight was the Wendouree shiraz/malbec 2006. To say that Wendouree is an icon is an understatement. Not many people know the wines, as they are not available in shops. The only way to buy them is via the mailing list, and you have to go on the waiting list to get on the mailing list!

Wines like Wendouree can present a real challenge for collectors. As they are hard to get, I tend to tuck them away in the cellar for many years and save them for a special occasion. The downside of this is that I don’t know what they taste like, and miss the charms of their youth. It was with this in mind that I slipped the Wendouree into this week’s tasting.

At the other end of the price spectrum, the Yalumba cabernet is a real bargain. This should be available for around $10 and is remarkably good.

Tasted

Wendouree – Shiraz/Malbec – 2006 (18.7). This has a lovely nose with cherries and plums to the fore. The palate has extraordinarily dense fruit, but remains supple and fine throughout. Plums and licorice dominate the palate, but there is chocolate and coffee too. Great length and persistence. The palate is seamless and there is a lovely souring finish that suits food. This wine is quite magical. The fruit is allowed to express itself, yet the wonderfully fine and silky tannins and oak guarantee a 20-year life. Was even better the next day.

Paxton – Jones Block – Shiraz – 2005 (18.3). This is a bit of a monster. Dense, ripe and deep smelling fruit with licorice and star anise. The palate is big. The fruit is dense, textured and layered. Black fruits and spice dominate. There is plenty of sweet alcohol but it holds it well. A serious wine that will age well.

d’Arrenberg – Vintage Fortified– Shiraz Chambourcin – 2005 – (18). Typical dusty nose to open. Massive nose of plums and licorice all-sorts. This is really the essence of shiraz, and it has been fortified with good quality spirits. This is sweeter than the Portuguese ports, but has all the elements for a very long (30yr) life.

Paxton – Elizabeth Jean – Shiraz– 2006 (17.8). Fresher and lighter than the Jones Block, and more approachable now. The nose is defined by fragrant fruit, and a touch of cedar. The palate has masses of licorice, cloves and spice, with red fruits to the fore. The oak is less obvious, but the alcohol is more dominant. 5-10 years.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet – 2007 (17.6). Closed, but dense fruit on the nose. The fruit is cooler, with a touch of eucalypt and menthol. The palate is defined by dense fruit that is textured and layered. High quality oak is starting to integrate. This will get better with a few years in the cellar. Winner of best Bordeaux varietal in the Decanter Wine Awards. (David looked at the Fraser Gallop wines after 2 days, and found them to be better again. One to watch!)

Yalumba – Y Series – Cabernet – 2007 (17). I admit to being seduced by the forward floral fruit here. There is black currant and red fruits too. The palate is full, ripe and plush, with well-managed tannins. Again, this polarised the panel, but is a bargain none the less.

Higher Plane – Merlot – 2007 (17). Overt, ripe, dense and really deep smelling. The palate has cassis to open, but the oak grip dominates the finish. Very good quality fruit, but can it beat the oak into submission? Polarising style.

Shepard Hill – Matthew’s Vintage – Cabernet – 2004 (16.9). Cassis, mint, mortien and a touch of eucalyptus on the nose. The palate has cool fruit characters with ribena the dominant character. Sweet cedary oak dominates the finish. Needs several years to start drinking well. (Excellent potential, but some dissent among the panellists).

CJ Pask – Gimblett Road – Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec -2006 (16.8). Round and complex with cedary oak The palate is dense and ripe, but this is not a generous wine. Fine finish.

Bird in Hand – Rose – Pinot – 2008 (16.5). Lifted ripe fruit characters, but not candied or overtly sweet. The palate has raspberry and spice with a touch of savoury meatiness. Not too sweet. All agreed that this was actually a rose that was worth drinking. Rare praise indeed!