Idée Fixe: Fixation, Place and Precision

Barry Weinman – May 2026

In 2012, Paul Holmes à Court, proprietor of Vasse Felix, acquired an additional Karridale vineyard — one of Margaret River’s most marginal and slow-ripening sub-regions. Sitting close to the ocean and influenced by the Leeuwin Current, it consistently produced chardonnay with unusually high natural acidity and restrained fruit expression. Whilst these qualities were considered challenging for table wine, they proved revelatory for sparkling wine production. Trial bottlings sparked what would become a decade-long preoccupation.

Following Vasse Felix’s acquisition of the former Watershed property in 2018, the stage was set for something more ambitious than an auxiliary sparkling programme. Rather than building production within the existing Vasse Felix portfolio, Holmes à Court chose to create a fully independent sparkling house, with its own purpose-built facility, identity and long-term horizon. That decision gave rise to Idée Fixe — French for a fixed idea, a fixation, or an obsession unlikely to be shaken by practicality or fashion.

A key step in translating that obsession into reality was the appointment of Brendan Carr as senior winemaker at Idée Fixe in early 2023, having previously spent more than a decade as winemaker at Xanadu. A Len Evans Tutorial Scholar and an active national wine-show judge, Carr’s résumé is grounded in fine-tuning detail rather than chasing scale. His role builds on foundational work undertaken by Michael (Mick) Langridge, who had previously led the development of Vasse Felix’s sparkling trials and helped design the Idée Fixe programme.

What Idée Fixe is ultimately trying to achieve is neither imitation nor novelty. The ambition is simply to make a world-class sparkling wine based on Margaret River chardonnay. This means a singular focus on Blanc de Blancs, restraint in dosage, extended time on lees, and an acceptance that success will be measured over decades rather than years.

In that sense, Idée Fixe is less a brand extension than a long-form argument: that Margaret River’s finest chardonnay, grown at its climatic margins and treated with obsessive care, belongs on the global sparkling stage — not as a curiosity, but as a peer.

The culmination of that obsession can be witnessed by visiting the Idée Fixe winery just south of the Margaret River township, where the former Watershed facilities have been transformed into exquisite premises. With the winery completed, the next step was to open the Salon, where visitors can undertake a tutored tasting exploring various facets of sparkling wine production. The cellar door team is led by Hayley Ward, who is as passionate about the venture as anyone in the business. A visit is highly recommended — if only to enjoy a glass of sparkling wine and take in the beautiful vista.

But ultimately, it is all about the wine — and this is where things get really exciting.

Reviewed

Idée Fixe – Brut Rosé – 2023. A stunning copper-tinged pink in the glass. Lifted aromatics define the nose, and the palate is fresh and vibrant with hints of berry fruit. Balance is a highlight, as is the length and persistence of flavour. The dosage at 5 g/l has been perfectly judged, rounding out the chiselled acidity and texturing gentle phenolics. Very approachable and perfect for a warm afternoon on the deck. A blend of 85% chardonnay and 15% pinot noir; 20% of the juice was fermented in older oak (barrels from Vasse Felix), with still pinot noir from the same vineyards blended in. Fruit sourced primarily from younger vines on the Karridale vineyard. Disgorged January 2026; one-third underwent malolactic fermentation. 12.5% alc | 5.25 g/l dosage | $54

Idée Fixe – Premier Brut – Blanc de Blancs. More intensity and power on the nose. Not as overtly generous as the Brut Rosé, but more than compensates with its minerality and intensity of fruit. Aromas of stone fruit, a touch of citrus and hints of sea spray, all complemented by exciting acidity, a well-judged dosage and a sense of purity. A fine wine. Disgorged September 2025; 48% underwent malolactic fermentation; 20% was barrel-fermented in old oak. 12.5% alc | 5.1 g/l dosage | $54

Idée Fixe – Blanc de Blancs – Bernard 96 – 2021. Much greater intensity, rivalling great Champagne in profile. Lemon and gentle autolytic notes tend towards almond and apricot kernel, and the texture profile is superb. There is a degree of richness and power here, whilst the minerality is also turned up a notch. The result, in combination with a lower dosage, is a much more structured and restrained wine that needs a little time in the glass for the fruit to open up — the end result is something quite special. Do not serve it too cold. Disgorged September 2025. 12.5% alc | 3.5 g/l dosage | $78

Idée Fixe – Blanc de Blancs – Davis I10V1 – 2021. A powerhouse. The acid structure is more pronounced and the minerality takes on a chalky character. A fascinating wine that will come into its own when paired with grilled scallops in a lemon-butter sauce — the citrus characters are a defining feature on the palate. A highlight. Disgorged September 2025. 12.5% alc | 4.5 g/l dosage | $78

Idée Fixe – Brut Reserve – Blanc de Blancs – 2019. This goes in a very different direction to the rest of the range. Everything has been pared back, resulting in a subtle, almost delicate expression of Blanc de Blancs. Yet sitting within this elegant façade is a wine of great presence. Overt power is replaced by sheer depth of flavour, and the acidity and minerality combine on the palate in a seamless way, adding layers of texture. This is a wine to sit, sip and ponder, allowing the flavours and textures to build and evolve over time. Primarily made from Davis clone chardonnay; 100% barrel-fermented in old Vasse Felix barrels. Given the cool year, 86% of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation to modulate the acidity. Six years on lees. 12.5% alc | 2.75 g/l dosage | $130