Barry Weinman – May 2026

Some days in wine are more remarkable than others. And so it was when John Jens reached out to ask whether he could bring around the new Henschke reds from the 2022 vintage.

To taste the Hill of Grace or Mount Edelstone is a rare treat. To taste them side by side, alongside the Wheelwright and the Hill of Roses, was an extraordinary privilege — and the wines did not disappoint. Whilst the sheer quality was a given, the highlight for me was the subtle variations in style that each vineyard presented.

2022 in the Barossa was a cooler, more finely structured vintage — less powerful and opulent than 2021, and more elegant and precise. This allowed the personality of each wine to express itself with particular clarity.

NB: The wines were not tasted blind, so points are indicative only. After all, who could avoid being influenced when, with the Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone, you know you are about to drink one of the world’s great red wines.

A special thanks to John Jens at Lamonts in Cottesloe for making this tasting possible!

Reviewed

Henschke – The Wheelwright – Shiraz – 2022. The first impression is one of subtlety and precision. There is ripe berry fruit, but it takes on an almost ethereal quality. The palate is a case study in elegance: everything is perfectly in place, supple and near-seamless in the way the fruit transitions along the tongue. The textural components add depth and complexity without ever being obtrusive. The persistence of fruit on the finish is a highlight. This is something of a chameleon — impressive now, yet certain to age beautifully for two decades in the right conditions. With air, the tannins become more impactful and the fruit retreats slightly; if drinking young, give it an hour or two in a decanter. The fine tannins are drying in a positive sense, and the minerality builds. A complete wine. Matured in French oak (10% new) for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 95–96 points | $165

Henschke – Mount Edelstone – Shiraz – 2022. In contrast to The Wheelwright, the Mount Edelstone has far greater initial impact on the nose. There is no escaping the sheer intensity of the ripe, almost opulent fruit. On the palate, a seemingly never-ending cascade of berry and plum flavours floods the tastebuds, whilst the minerality — driven, I suspect, by the acidity — is much more evident. Whilst it appears at first glance barely more than medium-bodied, there is tremendous latent power sitting behind the fruit, with the oak and tannins adding depth, texture and structure as the perfect foil. Stupendous. John Jens suggests this is the greatest Mount Edelstone ever produced. I am not going to argue. Aged for twenty months in French oak (8% new). 14.5% alc | 97 points | $300

Henschke – Hill of Roses – Shiraz – 2022. A completely different expression of Barossa shiraz. Here the oak has been wound right back, and a soaring acidity plays a far greater role in defining the wine, giving it great drive and energy whilst making it relatively unapproachable without food. In twenty years, I am confident this will come into its own — and you can always drink The Wheelwright in the interim. Matured in 100% seasoned French oak casks for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 95 points | $495

Henschke – Hill of Grace – Shiraz – 2022. On the nose, this combines the subtle suppleness of The Wheelwright with the power and sheer depth of the Mount Edelstone. The fruit sits in the just-ripe plum spectrum, tinged with cherry and transitioning to blueberry. Yet nothing could prepare me for the palate. The sheer depth of fruit left me slightly weak at the knees and almost light-headed with delight. Is this the perfect wine? Quite possibly. I could not imagine a more profound wine anywhere in the world. There can be only one Hill of Grace, and I am extremely fortunate to have had the privilege of tasting it. Matured in 100% seasoned French oak casks for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 98–99 points | $1,100