A Boot-full of Wine
Tasting Notes from Italy
6 December 2010
Following on from the previous articles on Piedmontese wines, here are a few wine varietals that are well worth checking out. Some are better known, others rare. All are different, distinctive, and in the main, delicious. They will be illustrated by a relatively typical example.
Timarosso
La Colombera “Derthona” Timarosso Colli Fortinesi 2007 (16.75). Timarosso is an aromatic white variety. The example I tried was given to me by my Piedmontese friend Marco, whom I must thank for my Piedmontese wine education. Timorasso was abundant pre phylloxera, but with the arrival of phylloxera, other varieties like Cortese (see below) were favoured. Various projects to revive its cultivation have led to its reemergence, especially in the province of Alexandria. I found this Timarosso to be rather Riesling-like in quality, but with a fuller middle palate. High acid was present, with citrusy lemon-lime flavours and even early aged characters of lanolin as seen in Rieslings. The finish was a touch bitter, but all in all an enjoyable wine, perhaps as an aperitif!
Cortese
Picollo Ernesto Gavi di Gavi “Rovereto” DOCG 2008 (17). Cortese is grown in several areas within and without of Piedmont but it only has DOCG status in Gavi. It has centuries-old history of cultivation and is thought to pair best with seafood. I have found the examples of Gavi di Gavi that I have tried to have moderate acidity, strong citrus notes, but also that hint of viscosity so common in European wines, giving the best examples a rather ethereal quality, as in this case.
Arneis
Tea Costa Roero Arneis DOC 2009 (17). Arneis literally means “little rascal” in the local Piedmontese dialect, and the name is apt as the variety is difficult for several reasons – susceptibility to powdery mildew, easy oxidation, low yields, lowish acidity – though modern winemaking nous has overcome most of these difficulties. Available in oaked or unoaked versions, the latter is the more aromatic entity. Our visit to the Tea Costa Winery occurred during the final stages of their harvest – Nebbiolo the last to come off – yet we were still welcomed. To boot, the proprietor is also the local mayor, and in between talking to us and delivering hand-picked grapes to the winery via tractor, he was fielding phone calls from his constituents!!
This wine was clean and crisp with herbal and citrus notes, with no oak influence. Apple and straw, with that slight viscosity again – giving it a different palate weight to most Aussie whites – completed the picture.
Verduno
Comm. GB Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga 2009 (17). A light ruby colour in the glass, with a fragrant nose of raspberry, also present on the palate, accompanied by dried cherry flavours and light dusty tannins. A fresh wine with medium acidity, with added hints of green pepper and fennel. No oak is evident on the palate (fermentation would have taken place in steel tanks, with time spent post fermentation in large oak botti). I have heard that care should be taken during handling as this (rare) variety oxidizes easily. Piedmont’s answer to Beaujolais, without the carbonic maceration?
Bonarda
Cascina Gilli Bonarda “Moyé” 2009 (17). Another one of those rare red varieties from Piedmont, here produced in a slightly effervescent style – the first fermentation to dryness, then some sweet juice set aside earlier introduced for the second fermentation. Dry, berry fruit, savoury and spicy hints, soft tannins with a light fizz. An accompaniment for Piedmontese salamis? Or maybe Chinese roasted meats?
Dolcetto
Aldo Conterno – Dolcetto – Masante – 2008 (18.25). Dolcetto is by no means a rare variety – it is widely planted in Piedmont. Though its name means literally “the little sweet one”, Dolcetto is usually fermented to dryness. Rich in anthocyanins which impart colour, only brief maceration times are usually necessary. This example was fermented in stainless steel – no wood influence is present. Aldo Conterno is a well-known Barolo producer, and this is one of the best examples of Dolcetto available. Deep ruby in colour, it nonetheless has a mid weight palate, a touch fuller than a Pinot Noir. On the nose, cherry and blueberry are evident, along with savoury notes of leather and tobacco. The mouth-feel is silky with soft tannins and it has remarkable persistence of flavour.
Final Thoughts
Though Piedmont is rightfully known for its austere and powerful reds – the Barbarescos and Barolos in particular – it has a variety of cultivars – white and red – that offer wonderful drinking in the dry and aromatic white styles, and the lighter bodied dry red styles. Well worth seeking out!!
Ciao for now!
Brendan Jansen