Chardonnay New Release: September 2026
A fascinating aspect of this tasting was the name of the Wente chardonnay clone that Cullen attributed to the Kevin John Solstice Sun Chardonnay.
The names Wente, Gin Gin, Mendoza and UC Davis Clone 1 all appear to be used interchangeably in Margaret River. Technically, it appears that the latter three all share the same Wente ancestry. Gin Gin clone refers to Wente cuttings from the original Gin Gin vineyards that have adapted locally whereas Mendoza refers to Wente cuttings that were originally planted in Argentina that adapted to that environment. In reality, they are all described as having very similar characteristics, and the classic “hen and chicken” bunch composition.
Regardless of the clonal name, the wine is very special indeed, as is the extraordinary Yattarna chardonnay that Penfolds produced in 2024. Having given the latter wine rave reviews as part of the Penfolds launch tasting, it was great to see this show so well in a blind tasting, confirming my initial assessment.
The SRS by Flametree and the Hutton Reserve also showed very well, whilst the bargain of the tasting was Dhillon’s Glenhope chardonnay, from Bindi.
Reviewed
Penfolds – Yattarna – Chardonnay – 2024. Wow! The fruit explodes from the glass and is quite superb. Peach, nectarine, minerality, lemon zest, curry leaf and flint combine with depth, power, elegance and grace. Stunning. I could not imagine a more intense wine, yet the balance is nothing short of brilliant. And it is totally seamless to boot, with incredible length of flavours and vibrancy. The fruit comes to life with air, and the superb oak has been soaked up by the fruit. A slight saline tang is the icing on the cake. It was great to see this in a blind line-up, as it confirms my quality assessment that I made at the Penfolds launch tasting. 12.5% alc – 97+pts.
Cullen – Kevin John – Solstice Sun – Chardonnay – 2025. This is such a different expression of chardonnay. The fruit has been toned right down in comparison to the Yattarna, whilst the acidity here is a defining feature. The quality is, however, still quite superb. The oak takes on a different role, adding more texture and structure, but with less of the worked, lees/barrel ferment characters. This is a superb wine in its own right. The fruit is sourced from the Block 1 vineyard planted in 1976 to Wente clone chardonnay. Only 647 bottles made. 13.5% alc – 96-97pts – $350.
Flametree – SRS – Wallcliffe – Chardonnay – 2024. There is a lot of wow factor to this wine. Ripe fruit has been supported by notable, though complementary winemaking inputs (lees/barrel ferment) and scintillating acidity. At this stage, the acidity comes over the top of the fruit, but a year or two in bottle will see this settle back. A distinctive wine. 13.2% alc – 95 pts – $100.
Dhillon – Glenhope Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2025. Wow, this is good, and excellent value from Lamonts in Cottesloe, given that it is made by the team at Bindi. The fruit is perfectly ripe, but in a restrained, almost analytical way, providing a window into the climate and philosophy behind this wine. There are hints of white peach, with abundant citrus notes, particularly grapefruit. Where this really shows its class is in its mouthfeel and length of flavours. Excellent winemaking; the oak plays an important part in the structure and textural components but has been beautifully assimilated into the fruit. And a few years will see this get even better, as the fruit really expresses itself. 13.5% alc – 95pts – $39.
Moreau-Naudet – Chablis – 2024. This is a super wine. The fruit quality is quite superb given its entry-level “Chablis” designation. Ripe peach is the main aroma and flavour, but this is supported by gentle cashew nut nuttiness and texturing oak. The acidity is the hero on the finish, adding drive and excitement, without blunting the fruit’s intrinsic power and depth. The oak toast is a little notable currently, but this is sure to settle back into the wine with time in the glass or time in the cellar. 12.5% alc – 94pts – $110.
Hutton – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2024. Funky and very good. This has had the royal treatment in the winery, with wild ferment and barrel fermentation in French oak (22% new). And the way it comes together with the grapefruit-like acidity on the palate is brilliant. The flinty minerality that sits on both the nose and palate presents as curry leaf and spice. A hedonistic wine that I look forward to seeing age over the next few years. The fruit is a mix of Gin Gin, clone 3 and clone 5. 12.9% alc – 95pts – $100.
Raineri – Langhe Bianco – Arneis/Chardonnay – 2024. This is a textural treat, and it is a bloody good drink to boot. Ripe fruit that has a lot of stonefruit going on in both the apricot and peach spectrums. There is gentle honey on the palate, complementing the stonefruit. Whilst relatively straightforward, the finish is fresh and surprisingly long and persistent, supported by racy acidity. Would pair well with food. 12.5% alc – 92pts.