Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire
9 May 2010
Given the vast quantities of New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs that we see, it is easy to forget that the Loire Valley in France is the spiritual home of the variety. It can be quite startling to taste the French wines along side the New Zealand wines – the styles that they are made in are so different.
The wines of Sancerre and Poilly Fume often display the creamy/worked characters associated with extended lees contact and lees stirring. The better wines may also be fermented and stored in oak, which further increases complexity.
We looked at a range of French wines that are either now on sale, or will be arriving in the country in the next month or so to see how they stacked up. It should be noted that wines from 2009 were bottled and shipped from France in the last three weeks. The resulting “bottle shock” means the wines will improve with a few weeks rest.
Tasted
Florian Mollett – Sancerre – Roc de l’abbaye – 2009 (17.5). Savoury nose with creamy characters associated with lees contact. There is also an underlying mineral component. The palate starts off fine and steely, with a creamy, textural component. A pretty yet powerful wine that will improve in the short term. Great value at $25 from Lamont’s in Cottesloe.
Pascal Jolivet – Sancerre – 2008 (18). A touch more lifted with some tropical and stone fruit (both peach and apricot), with some development starting. The palate is more worked and textured, powerful and viscous. This is long and builds in the mouth with fine citrus acidity. A lovely wine.
Florian Mollett – Sancerre – L’ Antique – 2009 (16.9). More fragrant again with apricot, musk, sherbet and passionfruit. These characters follow on the palate with green apple and lime juice acidity. Develops some oily, spicy notes and has a touch of phenolics. I would like to see this again in six months.
Florian Mollett – Sancerre – 2009 (17.5). Closed, steely, pristine and young. In the mouth – steely, taught, fine and fresh. A simpler style that may develop some complexity from time in the bottle.
Comte La Fond – Sancerre – 2007 (17.3). In some ways, this blends characteristics from all the other Sancerres. Some tropical fruit, passionfruit and musk, but also with complex “worked” characters and some bottle age.
Jean Paul Mollett – Pouilly Fume – L’ Antique – 2009 (17.5+). Closed to start, but with some lemony, citrus notes. Becomes fragrant and spicy with air. The palate is quite grippy, with lemony acid. Fruit is there, but is very shy. Almond and apricot to close. One to watch.
Jean Paul Mollett – Pouilly Fume – 2009 (17.8). Tight and really lemony. Steely, slate minerals and balancing lemon acidity. This should go down a treat next summer and should be excellent value.
Jean Paul Mollett – Pouilly Fume – Les Sables – 2009 (17.5+). More richness and texture here with a touch of fresh soap and herbal notes over a touch of stone-fruit. Crisp acidity with granny smith apple and lemon zest. Great example that will only improve.
Ladoucette – Poilly Fume – 2006 (17.5). A big wine. “Turbo-charged”. This is worked and showing some development. Lanolin and lees from barrel fermentation. The palate is creamy and textured, with honeyed development. There are some oak tannins to close. Good drinking and ready now.