Premium Western Australian Chardonnay: July 2022
Barry Weinman: 17th July 2022
The fact that Margaret River is making world-class Chardonnays is something that I am sure we can all agree on. But I was amazed at just how good some of these wines were drinking at this early stage in their lives.
The pair from Vasse Felix were brilliant, with the value offered by the “premium” Chardonnay hard to beat.
Gant & Co also turned out a great drinking wine, whilst the Allingham is a superb each way bet. And then there was the superb Deep Woods Reserve Chardonnay… Another superb wine.
Reviewed
Howard Park – Allingham – Chardonnay – 2019. Opens with lovely peachy fruit that is fragrant and creamy. The sweet vanillin oak is an attractive addition, complementing the fruit perfectly. The palate is balanced, creamy, textured and near seamless, with fine acidity and excellent length. This is complete drinking now and quite superb, but a few years in bottle will do this no harm. An extra half a point for drinkability. 95.5+pts
Deep Woods – Single Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2021. Leaner and taut, yet still possessing precise ripe fruit. This is less creamy and textural than the Allingham and offers quite a different drinking experience. A high-quality food-friendly wine that is excellent now, but this will also cellar for 5 years with ease. 93pts.
Evans & Tate – Redbrook – Chardonnay – 2018. This is a cracking wine. Exquisite fruit and very fine, sympathetic winemaking have resulted in a superb drinking experience. Seamless and complete. The fruit will fill out with a few years in bottle, but this is good to go now. 95pts.
Vasse Felix – Heytesbury – Chardonnay – 2020. The curry leaf minerality have been turned up a notch in this wine. Great depth of fruit, moving towards citrus (pink grapefruit) rather than stone fruit. The density of fruit is a feature, giving this intrinsic power. A cooler style that would be brilliant with food, as the fresh acidity will cut through the palate. Stunning chardonnay that challenges the best of Burgundy. 97pts.
Trait – Chardonnay – 2020. A ripe and lively wine that offers great drinking, The acid profile will ensure that this goes well with food, and 5 years will see this fill out nicely. 93pts.
Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2020 – This made me swoon just a little, such is the beauty of the fruit. Superbly handled, with the subtle winemaking inputs elevating the fruit on a dais. Underneath there is minerality and a lovely texture. The oak sneaks in on the finish, adding texture and mouthfeel. Superb drinking! 95pts.
Deep Woods – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2020 The minerality here was a feature, with curry leaf notes adding impact. The palate is flooded with ripe, peachy fruit that runs the whole length, and lingers for an age. Superb drinking now, but I can’t help but feel that 3 – 5 years will only see this get even better. 96pts.
Gant & Co – Chardonnay – 2020. Wow, the superb fruit that is very much in the middle ground, with supple peach and nectarine notes complemented by hints of minerals and spice. This wine is a Goldilocks wine. Just right! 95pts.
Voyager Estate – MJW – Chardonnay- 2020. This is a treat. Fine, elegant and restrained, but with a core of ripe fruit running the length of the palate. Excellent depth and a creamy mouthfeel are complemented by zesty/lemony acidity. Just needs a few years to open up and show its best. 95+pts.
Lost Farm – Chardonnay – 2021. Excellent varietal characters in a wine that has richer, riper fruit than I am used to seeing from Tasmania. When combined with the supple winemaking inputs, this makes for excellent drinking. 93pts.
Angove – Wild Olive– Chardonnay- 2021. This was a surprise package from McLaren Vale. Ripe fruit, but in a finer, more elegant expression than I was expecting. Don’t get me wrong, there is plenty of power and intensity, but it is skillfully wrapped up in a supple, understated wine that is spot on for current drinking. 93pts.