Cherubino Part 1: Chardonnays from 2020 & 2021
Barry Weinman: 21st July 2022.
Larry Cherubino has an enviable reputation when it comes to producing great (and great value) red wines and Rieslings.
My impressions started with the brilliant value Moondah Brook, Crofters and Houghton reds from the late 1990s when Larry was senior winemaker at Houghton, and were reinforced by any number of wines under the various labels in the Cherubino range.
But in recent vintages, the Cherubino Chardonnays have risked stealing the show, and the currently available range is an extremely strong portfolio of wines.
Reviewed
Cherubino – Caves Road – Chardonnay – 2021. This is leaner and more citrus driven expression, in a taut, restrained style. The fruit is very fine and elegant, taking some time to express in the glass. But there is a core of ripe fruit that runs the length of the palate. Give it time to show its best. 94-95pts.
Cherubino – Dijon – Wychwood Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2020. Fine, yet with innate power and great depth of fruit. Superb fruit and brilliant winemaking have resulted in a complete wine now, but one that is also worthy of 5+ years in the cellar. This is not a statement wine but is the most compelling wine in the range. 95+pts
Cherubino – Pemberton – Chardonnay – 2020. Ripe, joyful fruit that has plenty of Gingin clone pineapple characters. Delicious and more obvious than the others in the tasting but lacks the ultimate finesse of the best. 93pts.
Cherubino – Gingin – Willows Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2020. This is oh so fine and elegant, with great restraint to the ripe, svelte fruit. Subtle power, supple texture and excellent length make this a wine to watch. A very fine expression of Gingin clone fruit. 95pts.
Cherubino – Margaret River – Chardonnay – 2020. The big brother of the range, and this is demonstrated by the extra depth and intensity of the fruit. Hints of pineapple over ripe stone fruit, with creamy oak and barrel ferment characters adding depth and texture. The mouthfeel is a highlight, with curry leaf minerality building. Gets ever so slightly grippy on the finish, so 2-3 years should see this do very well indeed. A fine, elegant wine. 96pts.