Sittella – New Releases – September 2022
Barry Weinman: 11th September 2022.
I wrote last year about the superb sparkling wines produced by Sittella from the 2016 vintage. The good news is that there are still limited stocks available from the winery. You can access my reviews here.
This tasting was an opportunity to review some of the new release wines that have (or are about to) come onto the market. It was also the first time that the panel had a chance to meet with winemaker Yuri Berns since he took over as senior winemaker at Sittella.
The first thing that stood out is that attention to detail remains a key focus for Yuri and his team. Yes, they obviously have very good palates, but the technical expertise that underpins the winemaking is clearly a factor in the consistent quality across the range of wines.
I am struggling to pick a favourite from the tasting, as the Chenin Blanc, and the El Vivero in particular, demonstrated just how good the whites from the Swan Valley can be. The El Vivero is a field blend of varieties from the winery’s nursery block, and will be a great match for lighter foods, or on its own on a sunny spring afternoon.
From a value perspective, the Reserve Chardonnay at $40 is a steal, as is the Reserve Cabernet Malbec which, at $32, is a screaming bargain.
The Berns Reserve Cabernet ($60) is one of the last of the excellent 2018 vintage reds still available on the market. Definitely one for the cellar.
Reviewed
Sittella – Avant Garde – Chenin Blanc – 2022. The fruit for this excellent wine comes from the 1965 Houghton plantings. Hand-picked and whole bunch pressed. The palate is viscous, oily, textured, clean, fresh and vibrant, with waxy citrus fruit supported by gentle phenolic texture. Now or later, the choice is yours. 93pts – $32.
Sittella Avant Garde – El Vivero – Blanc – 2021. The fruit for this wine comes from the nursery block, and is a field blend of the white varieties planted there. I like this a lot. There is gentle richness and power, with hints of honey. Not toast, but certainly a touch of brioche. Excellent length and mouthfeel. Different to the Chenin, and an excellent drink. 92pts – $32.
Sittella – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2021. Wow, this is quite superb. Rich, textured, powerful, with stone fruit and spice. The oak is an important addition to the textures and flavours. This runs in parallel to the fruit today, but a year or two will see this settle back and allow the fruit to be the star. Gentle mealy/worked notes add complexity, aided by a fine acid core. Has the quality to challenge the best of the region, but not the price. 95pts – $40.
Sittella – Golden Mile – Grenache – 2022 – This is so bright and juicy, making for a totally smashable wine. But there is a serious core sitting beneath the slurpable veneer. Coffee, chocolate and texturing gravelly tannins all add to the enjoyment. Swan Valley fruit, 20% of which underwent carbonic maceration to help preserve freshness. 93pts – $TBC.
Sittella – Tinta Rouge – Tempranillo blend – 2020. This is a cracking wine. The focus here is the fruit, but this is complemented by textural, gravelly tannins that will work a treat with food. Plum, black fruits and liquorice notes lead to a long, slightly chewy texture. Just the ticket for bangers and mash. 92pts $20.
Sittella – Avant Garde – Tempranillo/Touriga – 2020. This has less of the gravelly tannins than the Tinta Rouge and a silkier mouthfeel. The fruit is quite closed and tight right now, but this is a super wine, which needs a few years to unwind. But it would be amazing with lamb shanks. 93pts – $40.
Sittella – Reserve – Cabernet/Malbec – 2020. What a lovely wine! Silky fruit, subtle oak, skilled winemaking, with excellent texture and mouthfeel. But this is reserved, shy and only hinting at potential. The density of fruit is a highlight. 94pts – $32.
Sittella – Berns Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is a bit like Clark Kent/Superman. It appears mild-mannered and gentle, but underneath is a core of powerful and structured fruit that just needs a decade or two to absolutely hit its straps. Density and depth are a highlight, and the very long finish is so silky and fine. 95.5pts – $60.