Faber 2022 Benchmark Tasting: 2019 Vintage Shiraz
Barry Weinman: 9th August 2022
It takes a brave or very confident winemaker to put on a wine tasting for the public where their wines are compared to a cross section of excellent wines from other producers and regions.
Cullen (Chardonnay), Cape Mentelle (Cabernet) and Peel Estate (Shiraz) are all producers that have held such events for decades, pitting the very best from around the world against their own wines.
So too has John Griffith at Faber.
Like everything that John does, value for money is a key consideration when hosting these events. At $150 per person, this one cost only 1/5th that of Cape Mentelle for example.
Whilst this precludes including the most expensive wines of a given style, John put together a carefully curated selection of wines from across Australia to compare and contrast with his own wines.
That the Faber Reserve did exceptionally well should surprise no one, as the wine has been consistently excellent. That each of the three Faber shiraz were the crowd favourite in their respective brackets is a testament to the quality and value on offer.
All wines were served blinded.
Bracket One
Spinifex – Shiraz – 2019 – Barossa Valley. Leads with lovely sweet fruit that is ripe and supple, with vanillin oak adding to the package. This is approachable and fun to drink, with the structured, texturing oak adding mouthfeel and texture. With air, the fruit builds and grows. 93-94pts – $48
Fallen Giants – Shiraz – 2019 – Grampians. Initially closed and reserved, its cool climate origins defined by the cherry/plum/berry fruit and white pepper notes. The palate is flooded with mulberry and plum fruit, balanced by fine, dusty tannins. Excellent fruit and sympathetic winemaking make for a compelling wine indeed. 95pts – $40.
By Farr – Shiraz – 2019 – From Geelong. More savoury, with gentle savoury notes over satsuma plum. On the palate the fruit is ripe, but this is a lithe, fresh style that has more in common with Pinot Noir than a warm climate Shiraz. Popular, but not a style that I really understand. 93pts – $100
Frankland Estate – Isolation Ridge – Shiraz – 2019 – Frankland River. This has it all. Balance, grace, and elegance. Superbly ripe cooler climate fruit has been matched to fine-grained oak. Whilst a little closed now, this has excellent length, depth and intrinsic power. On the close, the graphite-like tannins shut down the finish. 95.5pts – $50.
Faber – Riche – Shiraz – 2019 – Swan Valley. This is like meeting an old friend. At once familiar, comfortable and safe. It opens with ripe fruit, hints of tobacco and menthol. The palate is flooded with ripe fruit and fresh acidity, with spice and liquorice. A few years of cellaring would not hurt this one bit. The crowd favourite for bracket one, and insane value. 94pts – $23.
Bracket Two.
Wendouree – Shiraz – 2019 – Clare Valley. Pretty, pretty fruit, supported by supple cedary oak and very fine tannins. But this is closed and tight, only hinting at its potential. With air, the fruit builds and builds, and the length is quite incredible. This has a cooler region feel to it. Whilst not a crowd favourite, this was the sleeper of the tasting and my equal highest pointed wine. 96 – 97pts – $65.
Swinney – Farvie – Shiraz – Frankland River. My glass did not show well on the day…
Faber – Reserve – Shiraz – 2019 – Swan Valley. The fruit here is ripe, vibrant and quite stunning straight out of the glass. More berry than plum, with hints of mint and eucalyptus. The palate is supple, silky and very very long. The oak is the canvas on which the fruit has been hung, an integral part of the picture, but not a defining feature. The was one of the crowd picks for wine of the day. 96-97pts – $75.
Standish – The Standish – Shiraz – 2019 – Barossa Valley. This wine hits you like a freight train. Hugely powerful and dense, flooding the senses with flavours and aromas. The flavours tend to ripe plum and berry, supported by spice and cedar from the oak. Gets a little chocolatey on the close. Needs years to show its best, but this is high impact wine. 95pts – $120.
Kay Brothers – Block 6 – Shiraz – 2019 – McLaren Vale. Balanced, focussed and precise, this is a very different style to the Standish. Closed and tight, this gives little away right now, yet the palate is seamless and very long, with the fine, silky tannins building on the close. But everything is place for long term ageing in what is a superb wine. 95.5pts – $130.
Bracket Three
Tyrells – Vat 9 – Shiraz – 2019 – Hunter Valley. Lighter in colour to some, but no less worthwhile. The ripe fruit is pretty and perfumed, supported by subtle pepper and spice. Initially, the palate is juicy and succulent, though ultimately structured and closed due to the extraordinarily fine tannins and acid. With immense lengths of flavours, this is a brilliant wine, albeit in an understated style. 96pts – $109.
Faber – Millard Vineyard – Shiraz – 2019 – Swan Valley. This possesses the wow factor, with the rich ripe fruit and supple oak that hits you in the face. On the palate, this is matched with incredible length and intensity, combined with generosity of flavours, whilst the tannins will support ageing. If you like a big, rich, ripe Shiraz, then look no further. 95pts – $48.
Osicka – Shiraz – 2019 – Heathcote. The Millard is a hard act for any wine to follow, especially a lighter style like the Osicka. This is a wine for the Francophiles. Closed, shy and restrained, with menthol, spice and gentle herbs. These are supported by talc-like tannins and refreshing acidity. A reserved style that needs time (and space) to evolve. 93pts – $67.
Torbreck – The Gask – 2019 – Eden Valley. This is just so complete. Supple, succulent silky and dense, with hints of mocha. The textural components are a highlight as is the length. Superb now, but capable of 20 years of ageing. 95pts – $85