Plantagenet Winery: Wyjup Collection: Spring 2022
Barry Weinman: 26th September 2022
According to the Greek philosopher Heraclitus, the only constant in life is change. And this very much holds true in the world of wine. A recent example of this is at Plantagenet.
Plantagenet is a pioneer of the Great Southern region, with Tony Smith planting the first vines in 1968. Planting at the Wyjup vineyard commenced in 1971 with Cabernet and Riesling, with the addition of Shiraz, Malbec and Chardonnay shortly afterwards.
Over time, ownership gradually transferred to Lionel Samson & Son but in 2021, Tom and Jo Wisdom became the new owners. Tom was working as General Manager at the winery at the time and is a descendant of the Lionel Samson family.
The final chapter (to date) was the appointment of Mike Garland as winemaker. Mike started his winemaking career at Plantagenet in 1997 and his return completes the circle.
The old-vine Wyjup vineyard is at the heart of the current Plantagenet range and was the key asset acquired in the purchase, along with the Plantagenet brand. The Wisdoms have leased back the Mt Barker cellar door, allowing them to maintain a key presence in the region and they also have access to many of the vineyards on an ongoing basis.
Whilst the entry level wines are made under contract, the premium Wyjup range will be made exclusively on-site by Mike Garland.
2022 will be the first vintage completed end-to-end by the new team and I am very much looking forward to seeing the results.
Reviewed
Plantagenet – Three Lions – Riesling – 2021. Generous, approachable and very drinkable. The fruit is mouth filing and juicy, with lime and pear. Gentle phenolics add mouthfeel and texture. 90pts – $26.
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Riesling – 2021. Pretty floral fruit aromas tease on the nose, but this is really quite closed and tight right now. The palate is fine, taut and mineral laden, but there is undeniable presence and depth. Very age-worthy and impressive, the fruit coming from the original 50 y/o vineyard. 94pts – $45
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Chardonnay – 2020. This is very impressive. Like the Wyjup Riesling, this is taut, dense and powerful. Early drinkability has been deprioritised in the pursuit of structure and longevity. Impressive tight grain oak is a feature, sitting well with the fruit, and a key part of the fabric of the wine. Will get higher points with time in bottle. 93-95pts -$70.
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Malbec – 2021. This was the absolute standout of the tasting. Structured, powerful and most impressive, the fruit is dense and powerful. Yet this retains vibrancy and a supple texture. With air, the balance and approachability are outstanding. A great effort and demonstrates just how good MT Barker Malbec can be. The fruit comes from just 0.3 hectare off the 50-year-old Wyjup vineyard. Only three barrels made (1/3 new oak) and includes a splash of shiraz. 95+pts – $70.
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Shiraz – 2018. This is so so pretty on the nose, but it is on the palate that the seriousness of this wine shows through. The chocolatey fruit is structured, dense and powerful, and is complemented by gravelly, almost chewy tannins and texture. Age-worthy. 94 -95pts – $80.