Credaro in Focus: November 2022
Wine reviews by Barry Weinman: 1st November 2022
A little while back, I wrote briefly about the fascinating story of Credaro: https://finewineclub.com.au/2019/12/19/credaro/
The next chapter in that story is happening in 2022, with the family celebrating the 100th anniversary of the planting of the first vines on the family property in Carbanup.
It should be noted that this was not a commercial venture, with the grapes produced being made into wine for family consumption. It was only in the 1980s that the family embarked on commercial viticulture. But it makes for a nice story and a reason to celebrate.
Another reason to celebrate is that the wines are in top form. Trent Kelly has been in control of winemaking since 2017, and there has been a consistently high standard in the subsequent years.
There will be a number of events to celebrate the 100th anniversary, and some special releases to go along with them. The focus of these will be on non-traditional varieties for the region, including some delicious wines made from fragola. This was the variety that the family planted 100 years ago.
The Kinship range represents good value, but it is the 1000 Crown range that is most exciting.
I would definitely recommend trying the wines if you get the chance.
Reviewed
Credaro – Kinship – Chardonnay – 2021. Vibrant and juicy, with supple oak adding texture and depth. Excellent balance and mouthfeel, with noteworthy length of flavour and refreshing acidity. (No malolactic fermentation). Great drinking and would take food very well. (35% new oak. Wild ferment. Whole bunch press). 93pts – $40.
Credaro – 1000 Crowns – Chardonnay – 2021. More restrained and closed, with subtle power emanating from the palate. The fruit really builds with air, and there is more minerality here than in the Kinship. The texturing oak is very fine. Near seamless, the fruit unfolds on the palate, accompanied by great length and depth of flavours. Aromas include grapefruit, nectarine and gentle nutty characters supported by creamy curry leaf minerality. From a single vineyard in Wilyabrup planted in 1987. Winemaking influences include 30% new oak (low toast), wild fermentation, lees stirring, no malolactic fermentation and whole bunch press. 95pts – $80.
Credaro – Kinship – Shiraz – 2021. Liquorice, plum and savoury, earthy notes leading to a textured, chewy palate with dense mulberry-like fruit flooding the senses. This is a serious effort and, whilst approachable and really gluggable, needs five years to really shine. The fruit from this comes from the Cellar Door vineyard (50%), with the rest from Wilyabrup. 93pts – $40.
Credaro – 1000 Crowns – Shiraz – 2021. Souring plum notes, but this is much more savoury, with the supple fruit tightly bound with the tannins and structural oak. That said, the near seamless palate is expansive and captivating, with pristine darker fruit flavours. Superb now, but also very age-worthy. The fruit comes from the Wilyabrup vineyard and 15% underwent whole-bunch fermentation. 95pts – $80.
Credaro – Kinship – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Clean, fresh and bright, yet with depth of fruit and supple texture. There is beautifully ripe fruit, with berry characters exploding on the palate. The finish is supple, textured and delicious, though this would also benefit from time in the cellar. Impressive. (60% Wilyabrup/40% Yallingup). 95pts – $40.
Credaro 1000 – Crowns – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This feels somewhat immature in comparison to the Kinship. Taut, unyielding and with firm acid and tannins, this requires faith and extended cellaring to reach its best. But it should be superb. The fruit for this wine comes from a relatively new vineyard made up of 70% Houghton Clone and 30% 337 (Margaux clone). 95+pts – $80.
Credaro – Kinship – Fragola – 2021. This is known as the “strawberry” grape and is considered to be a superb eating grape. And yes, this has strawberry fruit that is fleshy, supple and delicious. Approachable and totally smashable, with enough structure to keep the balance. This will be part of a yet to be released “heritage” range, reflecting the Italian heritage of the family. 93pts – $40.
Credaro – Sangiovese – 2020. This is altogether more serious and structured, and is textural, fine, and elegant. There is excellent length to the cherry-like fruit and the winemaking adds texture rather than overt flavours. Very worthwhile. 93pts – $TBC.