Barry Weinman: 30th July 2023
With changing fashion and the ever growing availability of new and unusual wines, it is easy to overlook some of the wine styles that made Australian wine famous and provided decades of pleasure to the wine drinking public.
At a time when Grenache is all the rage, this tasting was an excellent reminder of just how good Barossa Shiraz is, and how good value it can also be.
The Grant Burge and St Hallett brands are now owned by Accolade and there is great value to be had, especially when the get discounted around the traps. The Filsell in particular is something of a bargain.
St Hallett – Butcher’s Cart – Shiraz – 2019. This is rich, ripe and fragrant, with berry and plum fruit supported by gentle spice. The palate is actually quite taut and closed, but there is lovely plum and savoury notes that open up with a swirl of the glass.. This is ripe, but the fruit is beautifully controlled, with the acidity and tannins framing the fruit well. Excellent now, but also in 10 years. 93pts – $27.
Grant Burge – Filsell – Shiraz – 2018. This is a much more savoury/earthy expression, with the fruit supported by coffee notes from the quality oak. Closed and restrained, yet there is impressive density here. The finish is structured and firm, yet the palate transition is near seamless, such is the quality of the tannins and acid. A lovely wine that could be enjoyed young, but would be best in 10 – 15 years. 95pts – $40.
St Hallett – Blackwell – Shiraz – 2018. Pristine ripe fruit up front, leading to a savoury and acid-driven finish, with texturing minerality. Rich, dense and concentrated without being heavy or cloying. Have it with food if you are going to drink it young, or give this 10 years and it should really start to open up. 94pts – $50.