Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Bress – Heathcote Shiraz – Vertical Tasting

Reviewed: 29 July 2012

It is not very often that you get to do a vertical tasting of a single wine. It is even more unusual to be able to taste every vintage ever made. When the winemaker flies over from Melbourne to attend because he has never seen every vintage at the same time, then you know you are in for a special evening.

And so it was that I ended up in the home of my good friends David and Tracy, to taste through 11 vintages of the Bress Heathcote Shiraz. (They also make shirazes from Harcourt and Bendigo). David Marks, the winemaker at Bress and wife Lynne came over for the event and brought tank/barrel samples of the yet to be bottled 2011 and 2012 vintage.

Adam is a real character and I could easily write an article just on him. I will leave that for another day though, as the focus of the tasting was the wine.

Whilst the wine has been produced since 2002, there have been a few changes along the way that have contributed to the ongoing development and success of the wines. The first two vintages were under cork, but from 2004, all wines have been bottled under screw cap. Also since 2004, the vineyard composition for the wine has evolved and changed. The third big change happened in 2006, when the winery moved to Bio-dynamic farming.

So what about the wines? The quality of the wines was excellent, with the best (2006 &2009) being superb and worthy of gold medal points. The vintage variations combined with the changing viticulture really allowed each wine to speak of the place and vintage from which they came.

Of interest was how well the wines were drinking. All wines were double decanted prior to the tasting and even the young wines drank beautifully with dinner. Adam stated that he was trying to produce wines more akin to wines from the Rhone and the savoury characters certainly supported this aim.

A special thanks must go to David and Tracy for sourcing all the wines and hosting a memorable dinner.

Reviewed

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2002 (17.7). Brick red, this is showing developed characters, yet remains very dense. Earthy and mature, with dark fruits, there is still plenty of life to the fruit on the nose. The palate still shows bright fruit with licorice, plum and spice. The finish is long and balanced, with good acid to carry the soft tannins through to the finish. There is not great depth to the fruit on the mid palate, but this proved an excellent foil to roast meats on the night.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2003 (N.R.). This had hints of oxidized characters and appeared a little old-fashioned. There was some plum and chocolate fruit on a palate that was drying. I can’t help but wonder if this bottle was a touch oxidized. Luckily, the winery moved to screw cap with the 2004 vintage.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2004 (17.2). 2004 saw a change of vineyard to the Camelback vineyard and a move to screw cap. Fresher fruit on display here, with pepper, chocolate and spice. Starting to show the first signs of development on the nose. The palate has richer fruit in the plum and chocolate spectrum. The length and texture on the finish are good and the acid confers plenty of life. The fruit and oak tannins are just starting to dry out on the finish, but this is a very enjoyable wine that is drinking very well now.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2005 (17.8). This is a vibrant wine that is full of life. The fruit is forward on the nose, showing an amalgam of pepper, leather, chocolate and spice. The palate has more of the peppery fruit, with quality oak adding depth and complexity. Lovely acidity carries the finish. An excellent drink and the first made in the Bress winery.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2006 (18.5). The first vintage with bio-dynamic certification. This was a cooler year and the fruit flavours reflect this, however the tannins are perfectly ripe. The palate is vibrant and focused, with plenty of the chocolaty, peppery fruit that seems to typify the style of this wine. The finish is still somewhat chewy, courtesy of the whole bunch fermentation, but this adds to the charm of the wine. The excellent fruit combined with slick tannin management makes this a star.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2007 (16.8). A fascinating nose here. A riper year with perfumed fruit that is tending to the stewed plum spectrum. The palate is rich and ripe, showing cinnamon, spice and licorice. The finish is warmer, again reflecting the year. A touch atypical, but had plenty of supporters.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2008 (17.8). A very seductive wine this. Rich and dense, the plush fruit has lovely chocolaty overtones. The palate is flooded with textured fruit that has trademark pepper to close. A wine for earlier consumption and one of the favourites on the night. (David tells me that a second bottle of this was required as this was so popular with dinner).

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2009 (18.3+). Another cooler vintage, and another superb wine. Fresh and vibrant, there are pretty red fruits with lovely floral highlights. The palate, whilst focused, has lovely perfumed fruit that hints at violets. This is a wine of great poise and balance, with excellent length and fine tannins. Lovely now, but will be even better in 5 years.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2010 (17.5+). Closed and tight, this is all potential right now. The nose is perfumed and silky, with savoury highlights. Very youthful, the palate carries the perfumed fruit and pepper, cherry and juicy red fruits. Softer than the 09, this saw 100% de-stemming due to the vintage conditions. An excellent drink!

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2011 (N.R.). I struggled to assess this as it is very tight and closed. There are, however, the trademark tannins and acid. This was a tank sample and I would like to see this again when it is released, as the wine has potential. This was also a crowd favourite on the night.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2012 (N.R.). Still has some of the ferment characters on the nose, but there is no doubting the quality of the fruit on this wine. The palate balances silky fruit with great structure and length. Destined to be a superstar!

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed: 27th July 2012

The highlight of this tasting was the pair of wines from Xabregas. The way these two wines express their cool climate origins is quite different. Apparently, this relates to the differing soil compositions in the two vineyards. The Figtree is tight, lean and structured, whilst the Spencer displays more obvious fruit and is much more approachable today.

The trio of wines from Shingleback were also very impressive. There was high quality fruit on display in all of them, but for me, The Gate is the pick, combining superb fruit and winemaking with a relatively modest price. ($31 from Wine Box Warehouse).

Reviewed

Xabregas – Shiraz – X – Figtree – Syrah – 2010 (18.5). Wow, really high quality fruit on display here. This is much more subdued than the Spencer, with savoury, spicy fruit characters opening up in the glass. The fruit has been skilfully married to excellent oak. This adds complexity and polish to the finish, without dominating the elegant fruit. The palate is textured and very tight, with peppery fruit being the main attraction. The savoury edges add interest on the finish. This took four days on the tasting bench to show its best, so give it plenty of air if you intend to drink it now. A cool climate star, this is a very fine wine of the highest quality. (13.8% alc)

Shingleback – Shiraz – D Block Reserve – 2009 – Diam (18-18.5). Extraordinarily dense, though very fine. This is all about potential now. The palate is seamless, whilst the very fine tannins and oak separate this from the ordinary. Needs 10 years, but will last much longer.

Shingleback – Shiraz – The Gate – 2009 – Diam (18+). Very finely structured, the fruit on this is more approachable than the D Block Reserve, though this is still very youthful. There is dense fruit on the palate showing coffee and plum overtones, with savoury notes that add interest on the finish. Very smart wine.

Xabregas – Shiraz – X – Spencer – Syrah – 2010 (18). Vibrant cherry and spicy to open, with lovely white pepper highlights. This is a lovely example of cool climate shiraz, where the fruit is able to express more richness than is often the case. The fruit is quite racy in the mouth, while the tannins, oak and acidity are perfectly matched. Good length and texture on the close, this is an excellent wine. (14.5% alc)

Mount Horricks – Shiraz – 2010 (17.9). The word plush comes to mind when tasting this wine. Lovely ripe fruit that is in no way overblown. On the palate, there are rich fruit flavours with hints of mint, spice and licorice to close. Very good length and mouth-feel, the finish is slightly mouth-watering courtesy, of the fine tannins and well managed acidity. More mainstream, but delicious.

Singlefile Estate – Shiraz – Frankland River – 2010 (17.9). Fine fruit on the nose here. A mix of red and black fruits that are fresh and vibrant. Elegance is the key here, with fruit that is balanced, refined, elegant and long. The winemaking supports this with judicious use of quality oak. The tannins are fine and supple and add texture to the close. Modern and elegant, this will benefit from several years in the cellar.

Shingleback – Shiraz – The Davey Estate – 2010 (17.8). Seductive nose and inky colour. Chewy fruit that, whilst not quite as deep as its big brothers here, is of excellent quality. An excellent wine to drink whilst waiting for the big guns to age.

Grant Burge – Shiraz – 5th Generation – 2010 (17.2). This is more medium- =bodied in style, with dark fruit notes on the nose. Quite plummy in the mouth with earthy notes to add interest. Well made, the fruit has been allowed to express itself more fully, with the tannins and the oak only adding texture to the silky finish. Smart wine with good length to close. Should be good value.

Mollydooker – Shiraz – The Boxer – 2010 (17). Sweet smelling fruit with licorice, spice and even a touch of tar. Rich and mouth-filling, this has vibrant, almost lush fruit that floods the palate. Savoury coffee notes on the finish, with sweet, but not aggressive oak on the close. The tannins are prolific, though fine, making this a great drink now, but also ensuring that the wine will age well for a few years. A seducer that at 16% alcohol, is warm without being overblown. Bring on the snow!

Cape Mentelle – Zinfandel – 2010 (17.8). Amazing nose that is packed full of fruit. Think Christmas cake and spice. The palate is a powerhouse of fruit, with plenty of those spicy Christmas cake characters. The length is impressive and the finish is comforting and sympathetic to the style. The vanillin oak is noticeable but in balance. The 14.5% alcohol is an amazing feat given that Zins can often tip the scales at 16%+.

Shiraz and Rhone Varietals

New Release

Reviewed: 15 June 2012

The four wines from Yangarra presented the panel with a fascinating insight into the qualities that shiraz, grenache and mouvedre (mataro) can bring to a GSM blend. In this case, I was surprised to see that the grenache, albeit from a different vintage, was the grape that had the most structure, whilst the mouvedre added perfume to the blend. Ultimately, the shiraz however was my pick.

For me though, the wine of the tasting was the Mandala. This was so enjoyable that I had a glass of this with my dinner after the tasting. (It is very unusual for me to want to drink a new release red, especially on the day it was opened).

Reviewed

Mandala – Shiraz – 2010 (18). Closed on the nose right now, but excellent quality fruit is evident on the palate. This wine possesses a degree of drinkability that is unusual in a wine of this quality. This is due, in part, to the super fine and silky, though ample tannins that have been polished to the point where they merely add textural support to the high quality fruit. Whilst this will easily last for 10+ years, it is superb drinking today.

Yangarra – Shiraz – 2010 (18). Wow, this has amazing depth to the fruit. There is tar, spice, licorice, chocolate and cinnamon on the nose. Evolves in the palate for a very long time, throwing up complex flavours with time and air. This was my preference of the four wines from Yangarra and the fruit reflects the super quality of the 2010 vintage.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2011 (17.8). Not a lot on the nose at first, but this opened to show plump, ripe fruit with cherry and spice. The palate is precise and focused with a core of bright red fruit. The finish is impressive for both the length and persistence. Silky tannins add to the lovely mouth-feel. Good fruit and oak combined with excellent winemaking – A bargain at $15.

Grant Burge – GSM – Holy Trinity – 2009 (17.5+). The palate here is big, rich and flooded with ripe fruit. Whilst forward, the fruit has been well managed and is in no way over ripe or over done. The palate is all about the fruit, with oak a mere whisper in the background. Quality old vine fruit is what this wine is all about, but do not expect subtlety in the short term. Enjoy anytime over the next 10 years but needs 5 years to approach its best. (Diam closure).

Alkoomi – Shiraz – 2010 (17.5). Richer fruit of substance and depth. This has coffee, tar and even slight medicinal flavours over dense and ripe fruit. It is different in style, but it is good all the same and the tannins and oak have been well managed.

Yangarra – GSM – Cadenzia – 2010 (17.5). More approachable than the straight grenache or shiraz and much juicier to boot. This is fleshy and quite delicious. The mouvedre softens the fruit whilst the grenache adds a tannic kick to the finish. With excellent balance, I suggest drinking this whilst waiting for the shiraz.

Yangarra – Mouvedre – 2010 (17.3). A pretty wine with floral fruit on the nose. The palate is soft and fleshy, making this the most approachable wine of the Yangarra quartet. As the tannins soften in the short to medium term, this will make for good drinking.

Deep Woods – Shiraz/Grenache/Mouvedre – 2010 (17.2). A very well balanced and well made wine. This has elegant fruit and winemaking that is very sympathetic to the fruit weight. Good length to a very enjoyable wine. This is an unusual grape composition for Margaret River, but it works.

Xanadu – Shiraz – 2009 (17). Sweet fruit and silky, sweet oak on the nose, this is very seductive. The palate has quite dense fruit showing licorice and plum. This is a cooler fruit style without any hint of greenness. Long, though a little linear right now, this will improve as the firm tannins soften and integrate.

Yangarra – Grenache – 2009 (17). An interesting wine showing intense coffee and bitter chocolate over dark fruits. The tannins make this very structured and taut, while the quality fruit drives the length on the finish. This is a much bigger/structured wine than I was expecting from a straight grenache and will take some time to reach its drinking window.

Devil’s Lair – Shiraz – 5th Leg – 2011 (16.8). More seductive than many here, with vibrant fruit to the fore. Fresh plum with hints of vanilla and spice from the well judged oak. Not particularly dense, but very easy to enjoy now. Value.

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed: 20 May 2012

There was an interesting cross-section of styles here, with quality wines coming from both warmer and cooler regions.

Angove has turned in another stunning value wine with their Vineyard Select shiraz. Handcrafted premium wine for less than $20!

Reviewed

Shingleback – Shiraz – D Block Reserve – 2009 (17.8+) A quality wine here. Surprisingly elegant and refined, with a degree of restraint. Licorice, menthol and chocolate to the fore here. The palate is very intense, textured and layered, but it is not overblown. The quality oak has been soaked up by the fruit and the length is outstanding. Make no mistake, this is a big wine that will be at its best in 10+ years. (The style did split the panel, hence no gold medal).

Angove – Shiraz – Vineyard Select – 2010 (17.8). A traditional Australian shiraz. Intense fruit that is somewhat subdued at present. Long, fine, chewy and textured, this has real presence in the mouth. Pepper, spice and textured oak combine with ripe fruit in a well made wine that will last for a decade or two. Another outstanding bargain at $18 or less! (Most of the panel members will be putting this into their own cellars).

The Lane – Shiraz – Reunion – 2009 (17.7+). Medium-bodied and well made, this is a smart wine. Textured, though fine, fruit and oak make for a harmonious finish. Long and fine with licorice and black pepper to close. An impressive wine that will only get better in with a few years in the bottle.

Flametree – Shiraz – 2011 (17.5). Gorgeous nose! Sweet red fruits to the fore with raspberry, spice and vanillin oak. A quality wine, the palate is fragrant, though quite one-dimensional at first. This really builds in the mouth, with white pepper, licorice, menthol and spice. Expensive oak is very well done.

Voyager Estate – Shiraz – 2010 (17). Forward cherry fruit that is both attractive and of decent quality. Well handled in the winery, there is enough density to make the palate rewarding. Long, though straightforward finish. A light, more elegant style from a cooler region.

Best’s – Shiraz – Bin 1 – 2010 (17). A more savoury style that relies on gentle, savoury fruit rather than power fruit and overt oak. Refined, this has quality fruit, but the wine took a couple of days to open up and show its best. Very well made and very long, with plum and mocha notes to close. Enjoyably different in style.

Chalk Board – Shiraz – Barossa – 2009 (16.9). A pretty wine that is still very youthful. Vibrant, juicy, long and spicy, with chocolaty oak to close. I would like to try it again in a year to see how it is coming together. A bargain from Vintage Cellars.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Organic – 2010 (16.8). Thick and dense smelling, showing licorice, spice and savoury oak. Ripe and quite powerful fruit on the palate with good balance. The finish is a touch short, but otherwise, an impressive wine for the cooler months.

Rogers & Rufus – Grenache – Rose – 2011 (16.8). Very pale salmon colour more akin to a European wine. This is a very good example of the style. There are red fruits, but the overall structure and finish is savoury and drying. Complex, long and mouth-watering, this is the highest mark I have given to a Rose in a long time. This is a style ideally suited to food.

Drakesbrook – Rose – Wild Bird – 2011 (16.5). Enticing nose that is fragrant and floral. Think frangipani and orange peel with a herbaceous twist. Quite a big wine, with nicely judged palate and a somewhat savoury close.

De Bortoli – Pink Moscato – La Bossa – 2011 (16.3). Pretty. This has lovely musk and grapey fruit on the nose. The wine sparkles in the mouth with a sherbet like tingle. Refreshing and quite long, this is a great quaff. 8% alc. (A bargain at under $10).

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed: 20 March 2012

We may well have come across the best value wine in Australia right now. The Whiz Bang shiraz from 2010 is, well, Whiz Bang. A brilliantly put together wine that will sell for less than $15. The packaging is pretty smart too.

Speaking of smart, the Brown Brothers Patricia shiraz from 2008 is a pretty special wine. Delicious now, but sure to age for many years.

Finally, at the bargain basement level, the Oxford Landing shiraz 2011 is another great buy if you are after a cheap and cheery everyday red and the new packaging is very smart. It is hard to believe that this will sell for as little as $7 per bottle.

Reviewed

Brown Brothers – Shiraz – Patricia – 2008 (18 – 18.5). A lovely wine that is redolent of floral, fragrant fruit. Whilst the wine is pretty and refined, the flavours really build on the finish. Cherry, plum, pepper, licorice, spice and quality (chocolate) oak all complement each other and build with air. The length and textural components are outstanding. This is a very serious wine that deserves ten – fifteen years in the cellar, yet is totally delicious today. Clearly the best wine in the tasting, it gets a gold medal from me!

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 2010 (17.5-18). This took me by surprise. The nose is subdued and refined, but it was in the mouth that this really impressed. Lovely, perfectly weighted fruit that has been very well handled. The flavours kept going and evolving with pepper and very subtle spice. Won’t appeal to everyone, but worth trying.

Grant Burge – Shiraz – Miamba – 2010 (17.6+). Quite closed initially, but shows plenty of pepper and lovely spicy fruit with a bit of air. This is very fine and subtle at the moment, though the finish admirably displays the quality fruit and winemaking. Very long, this is an elegant wine that will age very well. The quality oak compliments the fruit beautifully.

Whiz Bang – Shiraz – 2010 (17.5). Dense and rich, with coffee and chocolate over vanillin oak characters. There is a lot to like here, as everything is up-front and approachable. Without the absolute quality and elegance of the best here, this is very good short term drinking. The palate has chocolate fruit, licorice and spice (from the oak?) and fine tannins which confer the wine a lovely mouth-feel. This will take a few years in the bottle, but it is delicious right now. At $15 RRP (though you should be able to pick it up for less), this would have to be one of the best buys available in Australia.

Juniper Crossing – Shiraz – 2009 (17.2). Superb wine here. There is plenty of plump, ripe fruit on the nose, with some complexity and refinement. The palate follows the theme, with silky tannins over beautifully weighted, dense, ripe fruit. Seductive now, but the wine will benefit from a few years in the cellar to allow the oak to integrate a little more.

Streicker – Shiraz – Bridgeland Block – 2009 (17.2). Bright fruit that has hints of candy, suggesting the fruit was fully ripe for this wine. Chocolate fruit notes over firm, though refined, tannins, with good length and a silky finish. Hints of licorice round out an excellent wine to drink in the short to medium term.

Kangarilla Road – Shiraz – Devils Whiskers – 2009 (17). A lovely fresh wine that has vibrant, uncomplicated fruit, with enough stuffing to make the finish satisfying. Will probably get higher points in a few years.

Yalumba – Shiraz – Organic – 2011 (17). Lighter style that had solid support from the panel. If organic is your thing, then this is your wine!

Oxford Landing Estate – Shiraz – 2011 (16.5). Interesting nose that combines ripe red plum and slightly dusty notes. I like it. Savoury and spicy, with a fairly tight, though somewhat lean fruit core. Very good length for a wine of this price. Not complex, but satisfying. After a couple of days on the tasting bench, the juicy fruit really shone. RRP $9 but will sell for less, this is tremendous value!

Hay Shed Hill – Shiraz – Pitchfork – 2010 (16.3). A correct wine that has plump fruit, but not a lot of depth. Easy to drink and a good mid week wine.

Shiraz

New Release Wines Reviewed

Reviewed: 30 December 2011

Another smart tasting, with over half the wines tasted making it to these pages. The cooler region wines presented a bit of a challenge, as they were typically tight and austere when first opened. I taste almost all wines at a temperature of 20 degrees, which is an excellent temperature to drink red wine. With these cooler region wines however, they do take a bit of time to open up when young, making assessment a bit harder.

There are a couple of new release wines from Penfolds that I have not seen before (Bin 2 & Bin 8). The quality seems to be up there with the other bin wines, so they are definitely worth a try if you see one in a restaurant. Make sure you give them some air (or decant) before drinking in the short term.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Art Series – 2009 (18). Pepper and spice in a silky and elegant package. Very long and fine, this is really classy. The length is superb and the fruit quality is outstanding. Seductive nose with great oak integration. High in acidity right now, this needs time to show its best and may get a gold medal in years to come.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Bin 8 – 2010 (18). More austere than the last wine initially. This has drying tannins and acidity, though the fruit does build on the finish. Textured and long, this also needs some time to show its best. Balance the key here. With air, this shows lifted, complex fruit with menthol, mint and eucalypt. Mid-weight for the style. One panellist commented on the similarities between the Bin 2 and the Bin 389.

Angove – Shiraz – Vineyard Select – 2010 (17.8). I like this wine. Bright, peppery fruit to the max. This is elegant and refined, but there is real thrust to the palate. The oak is very well handled and the tannins fine. The peppery fruit carries the palate and imbues superb length. Chewy, almost licorice fruit, with spicy fruitcake notes to close. Value!

Mt Langi Ghiran – Shiraz – Cliff Edge – 2008 (17-18+). This wine was the sleeper of the tasting. It took two days on the bench for the fruit to open up, but the result was amazing. The wine developed beautiful floral and perfumed notes with great intensity and purity. One for the cellar.

Penfolds – Shiraz/Mouvedre – Bin 2 – 2010 (17.8). Menthol, spice, aniseed with texture and length on the palate. This is an interesting wine. There are hints of spiced Christmas cake, along with floral, perfumed characters. The fruit is dense, but the acidity is very high. Lets give it a couple of years to see how it develops.

Swinney – Shiraz – Ingenue – 2010 (17.5+). Amazing purple colour that is almost iridescent. This is a cooler region wine of some note that is elegant, refined and very long. There are peppery overtones and fresh raspberries, with quality oak present in the background. This is a very modern wine that is very linear now. I would love to see it again in five years to see how it develops. From Frankland.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Haycutters – 2009 (17.2). Quite an elegant, fruit-driven wine. The palate is peppery and quite long. In fact, there is white pepper, good weight and persistence. Needs a year or two.

Laurance – Shiraz – 2010 (17). Plum compote and a hint of tobacco opening into vibrant fruit. The palate is quite austere and tannic at present, but this will flesh out with time. Opens to show plum and blackcurrant.

West Cape Howe – Shiraz – 2010 (17). Leathery, silky, long and reasonable complex. This is a smart wine, with plumy fruit and a touch of stewed rhubarb to close.

Under & Over – Shiraz – 2010 (16.9). A rich and velvety wine. This has plummy fruit with cedary oak overtones. The palate is long, though the tannins are quite drying at present. This should soften and flesh out with time.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Butterfly Ridge – 2010 (16.3). This is a lovely wine for the price. Dense, silky and refined, the fruit is on the plummy side with hints of Christmas cake. Fruit-driven, this is an easy wine to drink young.

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed: 27 October 2011

Everyone loves a bargain and this tasting has thrown up a couple of great buys.

The Yalumba – Galway is a very good wine and represents a great buy at around $14 (less on discount). This is a wine that even “serious” drinkers could enjoy. The Debut by Capel Vale is another smart wine that will make an excellent everyday wine.

At the other end of the spectrum, The Gate from Shingleback is one for the cellar. This will retail for under $35 which is also a bargain.

Reviewed

Shingleback – Shiraz – The Gate – 2009 (18+). Closed and tight, this is a sleeping giant. The fruit is superb, though it is totally suppressed right now. The wine has real depth to the palate and the tannins are fine and the high quality oak is well integrated. This wine needs 15 years to show its best, so give it plenty of air if you drink it young. A real star from a producer that is at the top of their game!

Haselgrove – Shiraz – Bella Vingna – 2009 (18). Ripe fruit reminiscent of satsuma plum and sour cherries. Complex and really quite delicious, throwing up a variety of aromas in the glass. The palate has supple red berries and noticeable quality vanillin oak, but the balance is pretty good. The tannins close down the finish, but this will be very good. Quality fruit and modern winemaking, this needs time to show its best. (The best wine I have seen from this producer).

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – Two in the Bush – 2010 (17.9). Rich and ripe, with quality vanillin oak. There is mulberry and raspberry to the fore on the nose. The palate is big, but the grape and oak tannins really shut down the fruit. Everything is in place, but it needs time to express itself. Quality fruit and winemaking here. 10yrs+.

Frankland Estate – Shiraz – Isolation Ridge – 2009 (17.8). Interesting nose. Cedar, spice and plenty of pepper on the nose. Very peppery palate too. This is a classy wine that has quality fruit and superior oak. Supple, savoury finish that has some appeal.

Vinaceous – Shiraz – Snake Charmer – 2009 (17.7). I like this. Dense fruit that is in the dark/black spectrum. Some pepper too. Peppery fruit on the palate, with cedar and plenty of spice. This is a complex wine. The palate is flooded with dense fruit, though the fine grained tannins hold it in check right now. Excellent length. This is made to be consumed young so have a go.

Flametree – Shiraz – 2010 (17.5+). Sweet fruit, but with lovely souring fruit notes over the top. Grainy tannins dominate the palate at first, but soften quickly with air. Nice plummy fruit though this is very young. Good length, spicy/savoury finish and quality oak. From the Frankland River.

Hardys – Shiraz – HRB/D641 – 2007 (17.5). Up front fruit on the nose with coffee, mocha and cinnamon over hints of leather and earth. Youthful, but balanced palate that has more of the mocha/earthy flavours. A big wine, and not yet fully together, this should age well in the medium term. A good 2007!

Yalumba – Shiraz – Galway – 2010 (17.5). Sweet, fragrant fruit on the nose. This is really appealing. Dense and ripe, this has good quality fruit with hints of mocha and spice. The palate is primarily fruit driven, making this quite approachable now. Good length and reasonable depth to the fruit on the palate. Good drinking and great value. Great packaging to boot.

Capel Vale – Shiraz – Debut – 2008 (17). Opens with hints of sweet vanillin oak though the fruit is subdued. Silky palate, this has been really well made. The tannins are very fine and this is quite seamless. The fruit is subdued, but this is a classy, if somewhat commercial wine. Not that long, but builds on the finish. Value.

Lovedale and OP & OH

The Wine And Food Society of Western Australia

Reviewed: 10 October 2011

Hunter semillon is very Sydney. People (and wine critics/judges) in NSW love the stuff. Outside of the state though, the reception is a little mixed. I think the reason for this is the lack of exposure. With the plethora of white wines coming from regions like Margaret River, Adelaide Hills and Marlborough, Hunter semillon gets a little lost in the crowd.

It was with this in mind that I arranged this tasting. I wanted to get to know a little more about the style and what better way to do it than with a vertical tasting of Lovedale. This is an iconic wine with a show record that every other white wine in the country would aspire to.

The grape resources available to McWilliams are fantastic. Whilst the Lovedale is their top white and the Maurice O’Shea their top red, they also produce the OP & OH shiraz. This is a truly amazing Old Vines shiraz at a bargain price.

The Old Paddock (OP) vineyard dates back to the 1920’s and the Old Hill (OH) vineyard the 1880’s. That’s right, 90 and 120 year old vines! This counts for nothing if the wine is not made well though. The vertical tasting of OP & OH showed a gradual evolution in style. The latest wines are modern, though with hints of their Hunter origin showing through.

I would like to thank Greg West from McWilliams for kindly arranging the wines for this tasting.

As the tasting was not blind, my points are a guide only.

Reviewed

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 1998 (18.5). Lanolin, lovely lemon curd and a developed richness. The palate is taut with plenty of lemony acid. Amazing length driven by fine acidity. A refined and elegant wine that, while aged, has a degree of freshness.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 1999 (18). Actually darker than the 98. Richer and more complex on the nose. The palate is fantastic, with honey and lemon. Falls away a touch before building to a very long finish. Balanced. Classic Hunter semillon with a lovely mouth-feel.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2001 (18.1). More zest to the citrus nose here. Oily, but again with purity of fruit. The length is again a standout. This is still a baby and will probably open up with another year or two in bottle.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2003 (18.3). Again, richer with more body than the last. Incredibly intense, yet beautifully balanced. Develops some toasty/caramel notes on the finish. The acid here is actually softer than in some of the earlier wines, but super fruit carries the finish.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2005 (18.5). Wow, this is spectacular, with so much going on. Lemon zest, lime, vanilla and lemon all vie for attention. The palate is juicy, textured and very long. An amazing wine of real structure and poise. A star and perhaps more powerful than the rest.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2011 (18.5). Restrained and taut. Lemon zest and lime juice to the fore. This is reserved, but totally seamless. Has amazing presence in the mouth for what is a fairly neutral wine at the moment. The acidity and length define this wine.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 1996 (17.5). Wow, lovely nose. Developed, rich fruit. Think plum, mulberry, leather and spice. Very complex and intriguing. The palate is drying out a touch with dried herbs and spice and there is plummy fruit to close, with a touch of dark chocolate. Smelly but lovely. An old fashioned wine and the finish is not as long as some here.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2002 (18.2). Much fresher, with cherry and plum fruit notes. Wow, the fruit on the palate is fantastic. Cherry, but with tar and almost floral flavours. Very long and dense, this is just a baby. Fruit, dark cherries and chocolate carry the finish. A satisfying wine that has some earthy notes starting to show.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2005 (17.8). Closed. This is super fine and refined. Plum, mulberry, raspberry, cherry and tar all on display. Acidity freshens the finish and there is leathery fruit to close.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2006 (18). Fresh fruit here, but quite closed. Super long and refined, it is easy to dismiss this wine as it lacks the weight of the earlier wines. That would be a shame, as the length and persistence are spot on. Builds intensity in the mouth, with white pepper to close. A more feminine wine.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2007 (18 – 18.5). Amazing colour, nose and palate. This has it all. Super fruit and winemaking. The length of flavour is superb. The finish fans out and evolves. An evolution in style.

Mount Pleasant Shiraz OP & OH – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Almost purple in colour. A very tight/closed nose, but the palate is spectacular. Sweet, high quality fruit, and skilled winemaking combine to make superb wine. Very youthful and closed, this will be excellent. Delicate and perfumed, yet there is incredible intensity and complexity. Superb wine!

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed – 18 August 2011

Penfolds is a very significant name in Australian wine, making a wide array of wines at every price point. The quality of wines like Grange and 707 needs no introduction, but it is the wines at the bottom of the price scale that I want to talk about.

The cheaper range looks something like this: Rawsons Retreat – Koonunga Hill – Thomas Hyland – Bin wines.

Last week, I reviewed the Rawsons Retreat cab/shiraz as an excellent quaff but the other wines in the range are quite different in style. Even at the Koonunga Hill level, (shiraz in this case), the wines are obviously Penfolds. There is quality fruit and that trademark oak handling. It must drive the winemakers mad to see a wine that has been so well made being sold for well under $10. This is a wine that could do with a few years in the cellar!!!

It is the Thomas Hyland that really stands out for me though. This is a ripper, with quality fruit, oak and winemaking. The quality of the 2009 vintage in South Australia must have been excellent, because there are at least 5 layers of shiraz above this in the Penfolds stable, and some of this fruit could easily have slotted in to the Bin wines.

A couple of other noteworthy wines. The Marmaduke is also a bargain, the wines from The Lane are super fine and elegant, and the Xabregas is nothing short of a star. Paul Hogan and the team at Xabregas are in brilliant form, as this follows on from their stunning 2010 rieslings, which were amongst the best rieslings I tried last year.

And so to the wines…

Reviewed

Xabregas – Shiraz – 2009 (18.5). Wow, fine white pepper here. Classic cool climate shiraz that is very fine and refined. Impressive length and excellent structure to the silky fruit. The quality of the fruit is outstanding, and the winemaking is spot on. Fragrant and perfumed, with excellent mouth-feel and texture. This is a beautiful wine that, while lovely now, will benefit from at least 5 years in the cellar. The sheer drinkability of this wine saw it bumped up to a gold medal.

The Lane – Shiraz – Block 14 – 2010 (18.2). Now this is a lovely wine. Fragrant and spicy fruit that has real quality. The fruit is vibrant, perfumed and a touch racy, with lovely white pepper to close. This is refined, long and serious. The balance is spot on and the textural components are a treat. The nose and the palate are subdued by fine oak and silky tannins at present, but everything is in place for the future. This took a couple of days to show its best, so if you are going to drink it now, give it some air.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Thomas Hyland – 2009 (17.6). Serious, quality fruit on display. An attractive nose displaying licorice, spice and sweet fruit. This is from a warmer region, but it is in no way overblown. Lovely plum notes, with chocolate and cedary spice to close. Impressive length and texture to what is a quality wine. This was even better the next day. (I saw this on special last week for under $13, so back up the truck!)

Windows Estate – Shiraz – Basket Pressed – 2008 (17.5+). Intriguing. Herbal notes along with red fruits and hints of licorice. Very peppery and spicy fruit on the palate, with vibrant red berries and a touch of cedar to close. Impressive length, the silky oak closes down the back palate right now, but this is an attractive wine of some appeal.

The Lane – Shiraz – Block 5 – 2009 (17.5). Plum and spice on a focused nose. Medium weight fruit that is light, fresh and quite pretty. Not immediately obvious, this is a delicate and fine wine with a hint of chocolate to the red fruit characters. Impressive balance and length. Will be even better in a couple of years.

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – Marmaduke – 2009 (17.5). A slightly dusty nose that took some time to open up. A shy wine that is firm at present. Has some peppery fruit. Opens to show savoury, spicy fruit of real quality, with excellent oak handling. Impressive length and depth to what is a stylish wine. I do not recall this wine being a straight shiraz before, but it is a ripper. Would benefit from cellaring for a few years and is great value.

Hardys – Shiraz – Oomoo – 2009 (17.2). The colour here is tending to purple around the edge. Seductive nose with ripe plum and cinnamon to the fore. The palate is supple and really spicy. Impressive length in a medium bodied wine. Great value current drinking.

d’Arenberg – Shiraz – The Love Grass – 2008 (16.9). Typical d’Arenberg shiraz fruit. The wine is not bad, but the name??? Cellar door only.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Koonunga Hill – 2009 (16.9). Opens with pleasant, plummy fruit in an easy, approachable package. Do not be fooled though, this has enough structure to warrant a couple of years in the cellar.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2010 (16.8). Lovely mix of ripe shiraz fruit and candied, vanillin oak aromas. Spice, and redcurrant fruit on the palate with hints of plum and licorice. Only medium bodied and not particularly dense, this is a good drink. (Tasted twice).

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant

New Release

Reviewed: 14 July 2011

I was very excited to receive an invite to a wine dinner hosted by McWilliams, as I feel that their wines are not fully appreciated in Western Australia.

McWilliams (the owners of Mount Pleasant) is a family owned winery, which allows the winemaking team (led by Phil Ryan) a degree of latitude to make the best wine possible, rather than focusing purely on profit. Phil has had a remarkable career with Mount Pleasant spanning over 35 years. It is amazing that a winery that was established in 1921 has only had three chief winemakers, starting with the legendary Maurice O’Shea.

The Maurice O’Shea shiraz is an awesome wine made from 80 and 120 year old vines.

The focus at Mount Pleasant is on single vineyard wines. This has been a tradition for many years with the likes of the Lovedale vineyard semillon and the Rosehill and OP&OH shiraz. This was long before the current trend for single site wines emerged.

The Rosehill and Lovedale vineyards were planted in 1946, OP in 1880 and the OH in 1921!

Phil Ryan and Greg West (Sales & Marketing) made the trip across to showcase their range and provide a taste of the soon to be released 2009 vintage reds. Both the Lovedale semillon and the Maurice O’Shea shiraz were remarkable wines. In fact, all the wines represented remarkable value for money.

The team from Evans & Tate, which is lead by senior winemaker Matthew Byrne, was on hand to show off some of their smart new releases. Evans and Tate is now owned by McWilliams but I will talk about them on another occasion.

Reviewed

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2005 (18.5). Lovely nose showing lemon, lanolin and citrus notes with a hint of honey. The complex palate has honey, lemon and supple, creamy fruit on the finish. The length is the key here, as this really lingers. A supple wine of great charm that will live for many years.

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant – Chardonnay – Phil Ryan – 2009 (17.5+). This is a very modern expression of chardonnay. Very fine and elegant, with grapefruit, match strike and peach fruit that builds with air. The palate has melon and stonefruit characters and racy acidity to close. Long and fine with sympathetic oak handling. Primarily Hunter Valley fruit (85%), that has not had malo-lactic fermentation. Aged in French oak (25% new). A bargain at $20, only from the winery.

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – Phil Ryan – 2009 (17.5). Juicy, silky and seductive. This is a fruit driven style, yet the structure is excellent. Fine tannins to close.

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – Rosehill – 2009 (17.7). More density and depth to the fruit. Lovely mouth-feel and texture. This is silky, ripe and long, with red fruits, licorice, spice and a touch of pepper to close. Again, excellent length.

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – Op & OH – 2009 (18). Spicy notes over a core of juicy, red fruits. Again, this has greater density and weight of fruit than the Rosehill, with beautiful mouth-feel and balance. Licorice and fine grained oak, with slightly chewy tannins that add to the finish. An elegant wine that is probably the best value red we tried.

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – Maurice O’Shea – 2009 (18 – 18.5+). Remarkable, refined and enticing. The nose is all about spice and licorice. The palate is amazing, with intense chocolate, plum, coffee and a touch of dried herbs and leather. Whilst only medium bodied, this is textured and very long. A lovely wine.