Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

New Release Whites

29th August 2009

After the excitement of last weeks Chapoutier tasting, we were brought back to earth with a thud this week with an uninspiring tasting of sauvignon blanc, semillon and blends. None of the wines are bad, it is just that they lack excitement. Fortunately, there were a couple of exceptions. The La Strada sauvignon blanc is a great example of the style that New Zealand is famous for. It is a complex and serious wine.

The Paul Nelson is an interesting wine too. Paul is the wine maker at Galafrey’s winery down in Mt Barker. I am not sure if this is a side project, but it is definitely worth trying. It would appear that production is very small, so try the winery direct.

Tasted

La Strada – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (17.8). Lifted tropical nose of lantana and lanolin. The palate is all lemony, ripe and focused. The palate is very long and the finish is precise. Texture and mouth feel make this wine stand out. Very smart.

Paul Nelson – Fume Blanc – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17). Textbook nose with fresh and floral accents. There are some herbaceous undertones. The palate has musk, citrus and candied notes and is very long. The touch of residual sugar is nicely balanced.

Kim Crawford – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (16.7). All grassy and cut hay on the nose with green pea too. The palate leads with lantana, passion fruit and zest. Lacks the depth of the La Strada.

Allan Scott – The Moorelands – Sauvignon Blanc – 2006 (16.6). Full of green pea and gooseberry, with grassy notes on the nose. The palate follows with grassy and herbaceous characters. Interestingly, there is a touch of CO2.

Peos – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (16.5). Quite closed and restrained, but hints at quality. The palate is also restrained and the wine is taught, racy and on edge. Fruit may blossom in a few months.

Riesling – New Release

Reviewed: 4 February 2013

Riesling is a fascinating grape as it can take on many different personalities depending on where it is grown and how it is handled in the winery. Bone dry, off dry, medium or sweet, the choice is yours. As long as there is appropriate acidity to balance the sweetness, the result can be thrilling.

This tasting had a variety of styles. Do not be afraid to try the wines that are off-dry. Done well, this style can offer immense drinking pleasure.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongurup – 2012 (18+). Because this wine is quite closed and tight, it initially shows subdued fruit in a soft, round package that is easy to like and very satisfying. Opens to show apple, floral notes and citrus blossom, with minerality and precise acidity rounding out the palate. Deceptively delicious now, this is very age-worthy.

Galafrey – Riesling – Dry Land – 2012 (18). Minerals over lime-like fruit characters on the nose, while the palate is powerful, yet austere. The minerality is a feature of the palate combined with tart phenolic texture. Racy and lively, this has quality fruit and should age well.

Howard Park – Riesling – Great Southern – 2012 (18). Wow, this has piercing acidity right now. Very young and powerful, this wine is all about potential. The thrust on the palate is intense and powerful, but there is no joy at present. Drink the Porongurup while waiting for this to become ready.

West Cape Howe – Riesling – Mount Barker – 2012 (17.8). Very attractive, if somewhat subdued nose. The palate is fresh and racy with lemony fruit and acid. Not overly complex, this is an excellent mid-tier wine that can be enjoyed now or in ten years. Classic style.

Bellarmine – Riesling – Dry – 2012 (17.5 – 18). Almost tropical fruit on the nose and the palate. There is limey fruit that is fleshy and delicious, while the finish is near seamless and beautifully balanced. The flavours linger for some time. I am not sure why they label this as dry, as it is not bone dry. Perfect for current drinking.

Singlefile – Riesling – Porongurup – 2012 (17.5). Opens with floral fruit that is both attractive and alluring. The palate is rich and forward, with a touch of phenolics to add texture. The finish is dominated by lovely refreshing acidity that has citrus overtones. Delicious, but will also develop well in the medium term. Excellent length and persistence.

Leo Buring – Riesling – Clare Valley – 2012 (17.5). Closed on the nose, the palate has textbook riesling characters. Think citrus with a touch of fragrant, floral perfume. The plate is fresh, vibrant and zesty, yet well balanced. Delicious now, but will be better in a few years.

Riesling – New Release

Reviewed: 28 October 2012

This was a very instructive tasting. There was no surprise that wines from the likes of Pewsey Vale, Cherubino and O’Leary Walker were of high quality. What was a surprise was just how good the new Millbrook riesling is. This is definitely a winery to watch as they are making some excellent wines right now.

An interesting point to come out of the tasting was that several of the wines were a touch reductive. After even half an hour in the bottle, the wines became progressively brighter and more full of life.

Reviewed

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – Contours – 2007 (18.7). A wine in two parts. This is more golden coloured reflecting time in the bottle, with lovely honeyed development on the nose. The palate is outstanding, with toasty development coming in over lovely citrus fruit. The length is excellent and the intensity of the finish has to be tried to be appreciated. Superb drinking, this is more developed than I would have expected from a wine of this age. With air though, this freshened up remarkably, leaving a wine that, at five years, is only part way through its life. Remarkable!

Cherubino – Riesling – Porongurup – 2012 (18.5). Very pale colour. The wine possesses a restrained nose that is taut and fine, the nervous energy palpable. The palate bursts forth with lime and lemon zest characters, lovely acidity and tremendous depth. Very long and seamless, this is a superb wine that, whilst drinking beautifully now, will get even better over the next 10+ years.

Millbrook – Riesling – 2012 (18.2). Lean and elegant in comparison to some here. This is a very fine wine of some quality. The palate has lemony fruit over minerals and slate. The acid is a highlight and really frames the fruit well. Great length and intensity, the near seamless palate possesses a vibrancy that is addictive. A superb wine from the Great Southern.

Cherubino – Riesling – Great Southern – 2012 (18+). Very pale straw colour. The nose is closed, reserved, tight, fine elegant and restrained. Yet there is life and vitality on the palate, as the acid and fruit is pristine and bright. With an extremely long and fine finish, this will blossom over the next ten years. Even better after a day on the tasting bench.

O’Leary Walker – Riesling – Polish Hill River – 2012 (17.9). Positively alive and leaping from the glass. This has all the characteristics of good riesling, with excellent length and acid on the finish. High quality fruit that has been made bone dry.

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – Prima – 2011 (17.8). The first thing that you notice with this wine is the Germanic level of sweetness. After this, the fine, high quality fruit (grapefruit) and fresh, vibrant acidity cut through making the balance quite superb. The fruit characters are a touch subdued, but this gets added marks for being a great drink. Harvested three weeks earlier than the rest of the vineyard, this has 24 grams of residual sugar and less than 10% alcohol. It will make a superb stand-alone drink on a warm afternoon this summer.

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – 2012 (17.7+). Remarkably tight and fine, with lovely citrus notes on the nose. Minerality, lime and lemon zest acidity flood the palate, with a touch of phenolic richness on the finish. Like several wines in the tasting, this really shone after being open for a few hours. Will evolve and improve and sure to score higher points.

O’Leary Walker – Riesling – Watervale – 2012 (17.5+). A slightly richer style with more upfront fruit and body. When first opened, the phenolics on the finish made this a bit grippy, yet, again, this really improved with air. Good length and texture now with a lovely finish. This will age very well

Duke’s – Riesling – Single Vineyard – 2012 (17.5). Fragrant sherbet and musk over lime brulée. There is a lovely mouth-feel here, with creamy fruit and soft, though fresh and persistent acid. A lovely drink now, but should also evolve for some time. From the Porongorups.

Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon & Riesling

New Release

Reviewed: 22 June 2012

A variety of styles on display here. The complexity of the sauvignon blancs that had seen some oak appealed to the panel, though, like chardonnay, they could do with a couple of years in the bottle to reach their peak.

At the other end of the spectrum, the Brown Brother Patricia dessert wine was lauded by the panel. A superb wine that will hold its own against many high priced Sauternes, though the style is different.

Reviewed – Dry

The Lane – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – The Gathering – 2009 (17.5+). Very textural wine. This is more akin to chardonnay, with creamy oak and lees/barrel ferment notes and lemony fruit. This is a powerful wine with great length and oak complexity. Like a good chardonnay, I would encourage you to give this plenty of air or a year or two in the bottle to allow the fruit to come through.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Art Series – 2011 (17.5). One of the more serious wine here, in that it has been deftly massaged in the winery. The quality fruit has been well managed and displays plenty of southern Margaret River grassy notes. The palate hads nutty flavours and is textured, intense and pristine. Very long with good mouth-feel, the acid is still firm. Oak complexity (courtesy of the 30% of the fruit that was barrel fermented), fills out the finish.

Millbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17.2). Less grassy fruit and more tropical flavours than a lot of WA SB’s. Zesty palate that is long, with passionfruit pulp to close. Persistent and mouth-filling, the finish is very drying. A smart wine from Margaret River.

Chalk Board – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Cut grass on the nose, but there is a lot more going on here. I wonder if this has seen a touch of barrel ferment, as the textural component of the wine is a standout. Long and fresh, the acidity ties the palate together well. A surprisingly serious wine. Made by Wairau River from Marlborough fruit.

Galafrey – Sauvignon Blanc – Sauvy – 2011 (16.8). Racy, precise, textured and long, this is an excellent drink. This has quite delicate floral fruit, but I expect it to open up with a few more months in the bottle. There is a hint of residual sugar to balance out the palate nicely.

Mount Riley – Sauvignon Blanc – Marlborough – 2011(16.5). Overt and attractive nose. Grassy and herbaceous to start, with tropical highlights building in the glass. Long and tight, this is a leaner style that is very drinkable.

De Bortoli – Sauvignon Blanc – La Bossa – 2011(15.5). Bright and fresh, though quite simple fruit. Pleasant, fresh fruit flavours combine well with a touch of residual sugar to make this an excellent quaff.

Reviewed – Sweet

Brown Brothers – Riesling – Patricia – 2008 (18.2). Amazing palate that is intense, yet very fine and elegant. Long and fine, this should not be served too cold. The balance here is the key, as the wine blends power, intensity and persistence with finesse and elegance. A complex, botrytis affected wine with dried apricot and citrus peel and acidity that gives the wine real life on the palate.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Botrytis – 2010 (17.4). Volatile, but in a good way with hints of varnish and resin. Much more viscous than the Clairault, with greater length on the palate and moderate persistence. Apricots, honey and marmalade on an unctuous finish.

Clairault – Riesling – Cane Cut – 2011 (17.3). Lovely nose redolent of apricots, but with much more to offer. Fresh, bright, long and intense fruit on the palate with just enough acidity to balance the sweetness. Intense and persistent, this is a lovely drink. (Though lacks the ultimate length of the best).

Juniper Estate – Riesling – Cane Cut – 2010 (17). Lighter and fresher than the others here, this is a little less sweet, and all the better for it. This will be the perfect foil for cheese or lighter desserts.

Riesling and Friends

New Release

Reviewed: 12 June 2012

The highlight of the tasting was the Pewsey Vale “The Contours” riesling. A superb wine now and will remain so for many years. If you do not get riesling, this may be the wine to enlighten your palate.

Reviewed

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – The Contours – 2006 (18.5+). Still fresh and youthful fragrant fruit, with the merest hint of development showing through. The palate is outstanding, with amazing intensity and depth of fruit, whilst the acidity has just started to soften enough to make the fruit the main feature. Great length and balance to close. A special wine!

3 Drops – Riesling – 2010 (17.8). Fresh and lively, with minerals, citrus and depth to the fruit. In fact, there are no rough edges. A good wine!

Singlefile Estate – Riesling – Porongurup – 2011 (17.4+). Talc and minerals over pristine fruit. The palate shows lemony acid that has a steely edge. Long and persistent, this is a smart wine. Lean, dry and a touch astringent today, this should age very well.

Leeuwin Estate – Riesling – Art Series – 2011 (17.4) Perfumed lemon and lime, though with more richness and oiliness than the Singlefile. The minerals and acid present on the finish will ensure that, while this actually drinks very well now, it will live for some time. (I am always impressed at how well old Leeuwin Estate rieslings drink).

Bay of Fires – Pinot Gris – 2011 (17.3). This was accidently included in the riesling bracket, and it stood out for its different style. This was flowery and supple and the palate was a touch broader. The acid structure was also completely different on a rich and textured palate with a degree or viscosity. A touch of residual sugar combined with the softer acid makes this easier drinking than virtually any of the rieslings in this tasting.

Chalk Board – Riesling – Frankland River – 2011 (17). Another smart wine under this label. Almond meal and minerals on the nose, with racy acidity and lemony fruit on the palate. The acid dominates the fruit now, but this will soften as the wine evolves. Made by Frankland Estate.

Tavignano – Verdicchio – 2009 (17). Not dissimilar to viognier, with apricot and honeysuckle. Nutty fruit on the palate showing some development with enough acidity to keep the palate fresh. Interesting wine that is good drinking.

Drakesbrook – Sangiovese – Wild Bird – 2011 (17+). More density of fruit, though the oak plays a role here in suppressing the fruit at present. This is a very smart wine with excellent depth of flavour and structure. Whilst the oak dominates a touch now, this just needs a few years to open up and blossom.

Vina Albali – Tempranillo – Valdepanas – Crianza – 2007 (16.7). Sweeter fruit that is, perhaps, more typical of the grape, with sour cherries and a hint of tar. Medium-bodied, this is a savoury style that would be well supported by food.

Borgo Bello – Chianti – DOCG – 2010 (16.4). Pristine bright fruit with cherry, spice, and licorice. Fruit-driven and delicious, with no oak to speak of.

Grosset Riesling

Vertical Tasting

Reviewed: 1 March 2012

Grosset Riesling Vertical Tasting

It is a real treat to be able to taste a great wine. To be able to taste more than a dozen vintages is a rare privilege! My good friend John Ranger must be applauded for putting this event on. It took a great deal of organising to get all the wines there on the night.

The tasting could be broken down into a number of stories. The first is the story of cork versus screw cap closure. The 97-99 Polish Hills all had corks and they were all quite developed, with one showing overt oxidative characters. From the 2000 vintage, all wines were sealed with a screw cap and the comparison was startling. Even the 2000 vintage was tinged with green and full of vitality. Yes they were showing signs of development, but this was controlled and predictable. Why would we ever go back to cork with these wines.

Another story was the evolution in style of the wines. It was apparent that the Polish Hill took a step up with the 2002 vintage. Every wine from this point on was exceptional. There was some discussion about what changes may have taken place in the vineyard/winery to account for the dramatic lift in quality.

The Watervale (now called Springvale) lagged the Polish Hill, with the Polish Hill having the “wow” factor. From 2005 though, the same lift in quality could be seen in the Springvale. Indeed, by 2009, it was apparent that this wine should be considered a superstar in its own right. In general., the Springvale had more of the citrus note on the nose and palate as compared to the minerals of the Polish Hill.

Another story could be the lack of overt kerosene aromas on any of the wines. There is some debate whether this is a good character or not on old rieslings, but I for one think the wines are better when it is not present.

Ultimately, the Polish Hill continues to have the edge, possessing an ethereal quality that keeps it at the pinnacle of Australian riesling. As one taster described, it is an exemplar of the style.

Wines Reviewed

Watervale

(Springvale)

Grosset – Riesling – Watervale – 2000 (17.7). Lovely nose with real life and vitality, displaying hints of citrus. Interesting to see that the colour of all wines in this bracket are still tinged with green. Fresh and tight, with tingling acidity, there is an appealing talc-like quality on the finish. Very smart.

Grosset – Riesling – Watervale – 2001 (18). Closed in comparison to the 2000, with more assertive acid and, again, a touch of talc and citrus to close. Very long and fine, this still needs a few years to fully develop.

Grosset – Riesling – Watervale – 2002 (18.2). Tighter and more refined, with fresh lime characters. The palate started off quite austere and closed, but developed in the glass. This is very fine and long and the acid, whilst taut, is very polished.

Grosset – Riesling – Watervale – 2003 (17.8). Delicate and very fine, with superb acid and structure. Falls away on the finish initially, though this builds with time. May need a few years to show its best.

Grosset – Riesling – Watervale – 2004 (18.4). Lovely nose here. This is the best Watervale to date, with superb length and structure. More minerals here and steely acidity. Very youthful and very fresh.

Grosset – Riesling – Watervale – 2005 (18.5). A tight and exhilarating wine, this is spectacular. Amazing intensity and structure here. Minerals and lemony acid to burn.

Grosset – Riesling – Watervale – 2006 (18.5). Very floral and pretty, with lovely lime juice characters and steely acid. Superb structure, but very unrewarding at present. The wines are now entering into that dumb phase making them hard to read. Really opened up when it warmed up. A fine wine.

Grosset – Riesling – Watervale – 2007 (18). Very attractive nose that has more floral notes over lime juice and a slightly nutty edge to the fruit on the finish.

Grosset – Riesling – Watervale – 2008. (18.4). Very austere and tight, but extraordinarily fine and long. This is all potential. Seamless and with superb structure.

Grosset – Riesling – Watervale – 2009. (18.6). Has youthful appeal and real charm. This is a spectacular wine, that has everything in place, yet is totally gorgeous to drink now. The best Watervale today and a spectacular wine.

Grosset – Riesling – Watervale – 2010. (18.5). This is so pretty. Floral and fresh with subtle mineral notes. Bubblegum. This is an evolution of the style. The palate is very tight and a touch zesty. Great length and intensity, yet surprisingly subtle and fine.

Polish Hill

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 1997 (16.5). Golden, but a touch lighter in colour than the 98 and 99. Honey and hints of flowers on the nose. The palate is drying and quite austere. Good length, but without excitement.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 1998. (18). Complex, rich and enticing. Gorgeous nose and palate. Vibrant ripe fruit and fresh acid. Excellent length and mouth-feel.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 1999. (18). More toast than honey here. Complete and complex, with texture and richness, with superb length to close. Perhaps a touch advanced, but very complex and long.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2000. (18.3). More mineral here. The palate is fleshy and pulpy, with very fine structure and texture. Superb length, this is very fine and bears no resemblance to the wines under cork. Noticeably different to the 2000 Watervale stylistically.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2001. (18). A touch of flowers and minerals on a warmer, more inviting nose. Very fresh and fine, the structure is, again, superb. More mid palate weight and texture. This has great power and balance.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2002. (18.7). Opens with a touch of mineral oil. Superb wine that is tight and fresh. The acid here is searing, yet very compelling. Minerals to close. A great wine.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2003. (17.7). A touch flabby in comparison and a touch broad. A bit hard to follow on from the 02, this is actually very smart and quite rich, but with out the minerality of 02.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2004. (18.3). Minerals +++. This is very taut and closed, needing ten years to show its best. Another excellent wine.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2005. (18.6). Wow. This is a spectacular wine. So fresh and bright, but there is so much more. Very cool vintage. The mineral notes take precedence over fruit (grapefruit) notes. Very steely to close with a seamless palate of very great length. Grapefruit.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2006. (18.7). Wow. Steely and very tight, this remains extraordinarily fine. Super mouth-feel and excellent texture, this has a great future.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2007 (17.5). A touch more forward and developed, with a hint of oiliness and richness. A nice wine for earlier consumption.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2008. (18.7). More richness and character than the Watervale. Has a degree of intensity that separates it from the ordinary. The wine is also seamless, but has superb structure and amazing intensity.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2009 (19). Complete, seamless and incredibly long! Currently showing fresh lime juice over minerals and superb structure. This is a truly great wine and, quite possibly the best young riesling I have tasted. This wine is actually very accessible and in the very attractive, youthful end of the development spectrum.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2010 (18.5). Another very fine wine and very tight. Minerals, and zesty citrus with pink grapefruit overtones.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2011. (18.7). This is all potential. Spectacular palate again, though the nose is very subdued at present. There are beautiful floral notes and seamless structure. This will be a great wine, though, perhaps in a different style.

Riesling and Sparkling Wine

New Release

Reviewed: 18 January 2012

I was most surprised when the covers came of the sparkling wines from Jete during our panel tasting. Well made wines with enough interest to make for excellent drinking.

The highlights of the tasting came from the riesling brackets. The wines from Howard Park were superb, whilst the wines from Frankland Estate were the best that I can remember from this producer.

In both cases, it was fascinating to see how the different vineyards expressed themselves in the glass. If you are interested in holding an interesting tasting, then get the team from Frankland Estate to send you one of each of their current releases.

Reviewed – Sparkling

Jete – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – Sparkling – NV (17). Clean and fresh, with some Granny Smith apple and some autolysis notes. Bready finish with plenty of acid to keep the balance. Sympathetic dosage adds to the enjoyment with good length to boot. A touch of bitterness on the finish works well.

Yarrabank – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Sparkling – 2007 (16.9). Darker colour tending to straw and a very fine bead suggest more bottle age here. Complex, round and balanced, this is a very good effort showing brioche, bread dough and a hint of honeyed development. Good mouth-feel and length. The finish is a touch dominated by the toast, but otherwise, this is a fine wine. Caramel notes to close further hint at some bottle age.

Jete – Rose – Sparkling – NV (16.8). Very pale colour here. This is round and soft with hints of red fruits and apple. Not particularly complex, but an enjoyable wine with good length.

Reviewed – Riesling

Frankland Estate – Riesling – Isolation Ridge – 2011 (18.5). Perfumed talc on the nose, with musk, pear and a hint of sherbet. The palate is superb, with fresh citrus and beautiful balance. The length is excellent and the finish near seamless. A lovely wine that will age gracefully.

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongurup – 2011 (18.5). Very pale colour, this is very undeveloped. Seamless, restrained, taut and balanced, this is a sublime wine of real class. Superb mouth-feel with great intensity and length. This will live for a very long time, developing character and richness as it goes.

Frankland Estate – Riesling – Poison Hill – 2011 (18). More chalky minerals with citrus and frangipani, this is very understated. The quality is obvious, but the wine is very shy. Again, the mouth-feel is excellent and the finish silky. Good length to close. Will only get better.

Howard Park – Riesling – Great Southern – 2011 (18). More forward, with obvious lemony fruit. The palate is zesty and very long. The finish is complex, the mouth-feel excellent and the flavours really linger. Very enjoyable now or in ten years. I would drink these while waiting for the Porongorup to hit its peak.

Frankland Estate – Riesling – Netley Road Vineyard – 2011 (17.8). Lovely nose that is both intense, yet reserved. The palate is reserved, and the acidity is the main feature now. There is citrus fruit in the background, but this needs time to come out. Very long indeed, a few years will do this the world of good.

Frankland Estate – Riesling – Rocky Gully – 2011 (17.5). Lovely lime fruit here. Slate, wet stone and hints of talc and floral notes add interest. On the palate there is fresh lime juice up front, but the finish is a highlight. Long, intense and balanced, this is near seamless. Great value.

Riesling – New Release

Reviewed: 8 December 2011

You get what you pay for – well most of the time anyway.

This was a fascinating tasting. Firstly, the Yalumba range (Heggies, Pewsey vale, Yalumba) and the O’leary Walker range demonstrated that the good things in life cost a little more. All wines in both ranges were very good, it is just that the more prestigious wines, (read more expensive) turned out to be the ones the panel preferred. (Tasted blind of course).

There is always the exception to prove any rule and this came in the form of the Angove – Butterfly Ridge. This is a delicious, well made wine that has a RRP of $7.00 per bottle. The panel loved it blind and were in a state of shock when the wine was revealed. Superb!

Reviewed

Peter Lehmann – Riesling – The Wigan – 2005 (18.5). More obvious development here. This is starting to get hints of oiliness that I associate with aged riesling. (But not kerosene, for which I am thankful). Fresh as a daisy in the mouth, this has started to show the first signs of development. Long and succulent, this is just starting to approach its drinking window. As one panellist said…”Oh Yeah Baby”.

Heggies – Riesling – 2011 (18). Austere and steely to start, the palate is bursting with fresh citrus that is a combination of lemon and lime juice. The length is remarkable and the palate is near seamless. A really smart wine with pure fruit handled well. Will take years to be at its best.

Howard Park – Riesling – 2011 (18). Subdued nose, but the palate packs a punch. This is full of zest, minerals and steely acidity. Impressive attack and persistence in the mouth. Good length too. Needs a few years to properly express itself.

O’Leary Walker – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2011 (17.8). Lovely blend of more structured, steely notes and aromatic, floral notes. The palate is vibrant and fresh, though there is a degree of restraint that makes this approachable now. Given time though, this will be a star. Lighter and finer, with a marvellous finish and aftertaste.

Swinney – Riesling – Ingenue – 2011 (17.8). This is good!. Floral notes on the nose lead on to a focused and precise palate. The vibrant acidity is offset by quality fruit, making for a long and balanced wine with good mouth-feel. This will develop very well and was one of my favourites for the tasting.

Koonowla – Riesling – The Ringmaster – 2011 (17.7). Fresh soap aromas lead off the nose. Lovely floral fruit on the palate, with zesty acidity bursting out of the fruit. This has quite a structured palate, the length is good and there are curious almond meal flavours to close. I would like to see this again in a year or two.

Angove – Riesling/Gewürztraminer – Butterfly Ridge – 2011 (17.5+). Lovely nose with rose petal and floral perfume. Bright and zesty, this is very attractive. Excellent length and the touch of residual sugar is balanced by refined acidity, making this a joy to drink. The + is for another reviewer who almost gave this a gold medal!

Greywacke – Riesling – 2010 (17.5). Curry leaf minerality to open on the nose with a hint of cumquat. Wow, this has a lovely, complex palate, There is a touch of residual sugar and superb acid that makes it an absolute delight to drink.

Yalumba – Riesling – Pewsey Vale – 2010(17.5).

Grant Burge – Pinot Gris – East Argyle – 2011 (17). Pretty, floral nose, with some mineral notes underneath. Textured and a touch viscous, there are hints of phenolics too, though this is nicely judged. There is plenty of acid to freshen up the finish. Good summer drinking. (This made it in to the line-up by accident).

Swinney – Riesling – Ingenue – 2010 (17). Lovely flowery nose. The palate explodes with flavour and, again, the residual sugar is framed by the refreshing acidity. Not overly complex, but totally enjoyable. Crying out for a warm summer’s day.

Wirra Wirra – Riesling – The Lost Watch – 2011 (17). Fine, with gentle talcum powder notes on the nose. The palate is fine and refined too. This is a very delicate wine of real class. Lacks the ultimate length of the best, but a good effort. Builds in the mouth.

Yalumba – Riesling – Y series – 2010 (16.9). Now this is good value. Fine, refined, elegant and very long. This has plenty of potential, but give it some air for it to blossom.

O’Leary Walker – Riesling – Watervale – 2011 (16.5). Closed/subdued on the nose, plenty of limey acid on the palate. Refreshing, this should flesh out in the short to medium term.

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy (and beyond!)

2 June 2011

Dr Loosen in the Mosel

When I decided to visit Germany, the Mosel region was top of my list. And in terms of producers, Dr Loosen topped the Mosel list. I was familiar with Dr Loosen wines – readily available at varying quality levels in Australia – and of course, with Ernst Loosen himself.

Ernie Loosen has won more awards than you can poke a stick at, including being Decanter’s Man of the Year in 2005. Many of his vineyard sites contain very old Riesling vines (over 120 years old) on their own rootstocks (phylloxera cannot trouble the vines in the red/grey slate).

When I sent him an email, he kindly forwarded it to Michael Stahlman, Event Manager, who kindly arranged to see me. Ernst Loosen’s dynamic, ebullient and irreverent nature extends to selecting staff with the same qualities.

Though I arrive late (I got the Bernkastel and Kues sides of the River confused…) Michael kindly agreed to see me. A sommelier of some note, and with extensive experience in the on-premise trade in the past, Michael and I chatted for almost two hours, tasting as we went along. The mood became less formal, and Michael’s cheeky and playful nature emerged.

“What is the residual sugar in that one?!” Time and again, I underestimated it – all because of the (superb) rousing level of acidity.

Other gems I picked up from Michael included the debunking of the term “balance” in a wine – between tannins and fruit, or acidity and sweetness for example. He spoke instead of a triangle involving a third factor, that of the individual taste preference of the client or taster. In his work as a sommelier he rarely recommended a wine until he understood the preferences of the client. And then and only then did he ever so gently nudge them out of their comfort zone. He used this method to introduce his father to halbtrocken (“semi dry”), no I really should say feinherb (“elegant dry”) these days, wines.

He spoke of four methods to match food and wine – the wine supporting the food flavours, the food supporting the wine flavours, a matching of flavours in both (such as a smoky cheese with a ‘smoky’ wine), or going for contrasts (like a Beerenauslese with paté, for example).

What did we try?

Dr L – Riesling – 2010. Superb quality for the price – 40g/l residual sugar (RS) and 8.5% alc – widely available in Australia

Bernkasteler Lay – Riesling – Kabinett – 2009. RS 50g/l with greater complexity – I thought field mushrooms – and depth.

Erdener Trepchen – Riesling – Kabinett – 2009. This site has red slate soil, and I found a core of citrus wrapped around minerality and shitake mushrooms! Michael liked that – “People say normal mushrooms, but I don’t agree…shitake mushrooms I like!”

Graacher Himmelreich – Riesling – Kabinett – 2009. Grown on blue slate, and at 10% alcohol, this was like crunching into a crispy ripe Pink Lady apple…!

Ürzinger Würzgarten – Riesling – Kabinett – 2009. This time the soils are volcanic, with the palate displaying hay, pepper and herb, and tropical fruit in the background. 7.5% alc

Wehlener Sonennuhr – Riesling – Kabinett – 2009. Grown on rocky blue slate, I found the minerality in this wine the highest, with lively underlying lychee fruit.

Wehlener Sonennuhr – Riesling – Spätlese – 2009. Sweeter yet balanced by the acidity, with the signature minerality and this time citrus and passionfruit. 7.5% alc

Dr. Loosen – Riesling – Beerenauslese – 2006. Needless to say we finished on a high. No cloying sweetness here, just clarity and balance (oops! Sorry Michael). At only 6.5% alcohol, I could swallow with a clear conscience.

All the wines were of exceptional quality, irrespective of style and price point. I would venture to suggest even the entry level wines would age gracefully. I am grateful to have had the opportunity of meeting Michael Stahlman and try Dr Loosen wines – it was well worth the 2 hour drive from Mainz!

Ciao! Auf wiedersehen!

Brendan Jansen

Riesling and Chardonnay

12 November 2010

Troy Denham, the State Manager for Fours Seasons Fine Wines, was keen to put a couple of wines from their excellent portfolio into our masked tasting to see how they performed. It was with this in mind that we looked at several brackets of riesling, and a bracket of chardonnays. There were a couple of real stars in the tasting, so the wines had their work cut out.

It was no surprise that the Grossett rieslings did well, they are the benchmark for Australian rieslings. That the 2010 wines from Xabregas showed so well was impressive. Importantly, wines like the Leasingham Bin 7 do not show well in these tastings. The firm acidity makes them hard work now but guarantees a 20 year cellaring future.

The highlight of the chardonnay bracket was the contrast between the two wines from Xanadu. The Stevens Road was impressive in all respects. The sheer weight of fruit combined with turbo-charged wine-making inputs makes this a wine that must be noticed. By comparison, the Reserve was superbly balanced, making it a joy to drink!

Finally, Angove has done it again with their Butterfly Ridge which retails for $7. It is a sound wine that drinks well.

Reviewed

Riesling

Grossett – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2010 (18.7). Very citrusy nose. Lemon and lime juice with a touch of curd. A powerful wine, this has spectacular line and length. The length really is incredible and the fruit quality impeccable. The palate is dominated by steely fruit and limey acidity. This is tight and quite austere, but will be a superstar.

Grossett – Riesling – Springvale – 2010 (18.5). This has everything! There is floral fruit laid over minerals and slate. Passionfruit, lime and even a touch of lavender. The palate is fresh and vibrant. The abundant acid is remarkably soft and allows the fruit to flourish. This will live for many years, but is relatively approachable now.

Xabregas – Riesling – X – Spencer Road – 2010 (18.5). Extraordinarily pale and almost with a touch of spritz. Quite Germanic in a kabinet style really, with lovely aromatics. This is extraordinarily fine and delicate, yet there is immense power behind the wine. If there is a hint of sweetness, the acid balances the wine beautifully.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Pannoo Vineyard – 2010 (18.3). Reserved, with a steely backbone. There is musk, sherbet and lime juice acidity that frames the finish. There is a touch of talc on the back palate. The length is impressive and this just needs time to flourish.

Lucien Albrecht – Riesling – Reserve – 2009 (18). Lovely floral/aromatic nose not dissimilar to gwertztraminer. Really seductive with lime juice and musk, the fruit characters carry through on an impressive finish that is rich and textured.

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongurup – 2010 (17.9). Again, shy. This is high in acid, but it is not aggressive. There is lemony fruit, but it is struggling to make its presence felt. This opens and gets really juicy. Very fine wine.

Xabregas – Riesling – 2010 (17.8) Floral and sweet fruit characters. This is textured, viscous and long. The obvious residual sugar carries the palate and the acid keeps the balance. Drink on a warm afternoon by itself.

Plantaganet – Riesling – 2009 (17.7). Much rounder, even a touch creamy. Again more to the steely side, but with some passionfruit and citrus notes coming through. The finish is very long, with lemony acidity providing the length. Sound wine. Powdery, fine, more modern and greater length.

Xabregas – Riesling – Show Reserve – 2009 (17.5). Minerals to the fore. Steely, with a touch of lanolin. Piercing acidity but balanced. Long and fine finish, but really needs time. 10 yrs+

Howard Park – Riesling – Museum Release – 2006 (17.4). Some developed characters with a touch of toast and just a hint of kerosene, (A good thing). Just starting to hit its drinking window, the developed toasty notes are balanced by fine acidity. Good drinking.

Leasingham – Riesling – Bin 7 – 2009 (17.3+). Lemony fruit, though the acid gets to me at the moment. There is good quality fruit, but it needs many years to emerge from the steely framework.

Boston Bay – Riesling – 2010 (17.1). Restrained, with textured and structural components more obvious now. The palate is fine and well balanced, with lime and mineral components. Falls away on the finish a touch, but a good effort.

Angove – Riesling/Gwertztraminer – Butterfly Ridge – 2010 (16.5). Floral and aromatic, there is musk, lychee and passionfruit. The palate is viscous and textured but the acid helps avoid the finish becoming cloying (just). At $7,this is another screaming bargain.

Talisman – Riesling – 2009 (16). Much more steely and racy, this has good length, though it is not so complex.

Chardonnay

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2009 (18.5). Quite burgundian nose, with almond meal and minerals combined with well judged oak. The palate has lovely fresh acidity and there is a touch of citrus and stonefruit characters to finish. Really subtle oak and well integrated. Texture is very good. The balance of this wine is a highlight and after a day or two sitting open on the tasting bench, this really blossomed.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Stevens Road – 2009 (18.4). This is BIG! Well made wine, with all wine-makers fingerprints evident. There are creamy textural components on the nose, along with mealy cashew and almond notes and a gentle creaminess. The intensity of the fruit on the palate is outstanding, thought the piercing acidity is a touch dominant now. There is pineapple fruit on the palate and textural wine-maker’s inputs. Great length and a very textured finish, with the barrel ferment, lees and oak components all adding to the finish. This has more of everything and is for lovers of big, (but not blowsy) chardonnay.

Clairault – Chardonnay – Estate – 2008 (17.4). This has some toasty oak notes to open. The palate is long and very closed, with the supple oak dominating the finish. I would like to see this again in 6 months to see where it is going.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.2). Dumb. This is a very minerally wine with textural wine-makers inputs. Reserved and tight, this needs a few years to open up. There is some fresh peachy fruit, but this is just developing.