Reviewed: 21 August 2012

The opportunity to try the wines of 10 of Victoria’s best wineries was something that I could not pass up. The fact that I had to fly half way around the world (well from Perth to Sydney anyway), added to the anticipation. My focus going into the tasting was chardonnay and pinot, so these are the wines that got most of my attention.

An interesting point to come out of the tasting was the number of producers who have not adopted screw-cap. A significant number of the wines were under cork and Diam.

So to the wines. As you would expect from some of Australia’s best wineries, the quality was outstanding. There was a variety of styles, with pinot and chardonnay dominating many of the producer’s offerings. That said, the shiraz and cabernet based wines were also top notch.

In general, the wines reflected the diverse terroir that is found across the wine growing regions of Victoria. Whilst I was unable to accurately pinpoint any distinct regional styles, individual winery styles were very evident. Vintage conditions also imparted an effect, with 2010 being a very generous year.

There were no bad wines on offer, though space restricts me from writing up every wine I tasted. This was not a blind tasting, so I was seduced by the label and in many cases, the winemaker who was pouring the wines. Many of these wineries are personal favourites of mine, which does not help.

Without a doubt, the highlight for me was looking through the range from Bass Phillip. It is a shame that I will need to sell a kidney to be able to afford any ☺.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting and i was further biased by having the winemakers to talk to as I tasted through the wines.:

Bannockburn

Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5 – 18). A very complex wine that has seen the full gamut of winemaking inputs, yet retains a degree of finesse that adds to the charm. Powerful fruit over struck match, lees and barrel ferment notes. Quite funky really. The palate is remarkable for its refinement and balance with creamy, textural components complemented by refreshing acidity. Excellent length on the finish.

Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.5 – 18). More Burgundian in style than many here, though with a touch more fruit than a Nuit St George for example. This is complex, silky, dense and chewy, with drying tannins and acidity to hold the finish together well.

Bass Phillip

Chardonnay – Estate – 2010 (18.5pts). Very complex and worked, with richness and underlying power to the fruit. The palate has melon and pineapple fruit that really builds. Lovely texture and the length is outstanding. An immensely complex wine that needs no accompaniment!

Chardonnay – Premium – 2010 (18.5+). A case of more is less. Initially, this has remarkable restraint and finesse. The wine really builds in the glass and hints at the latent power that is waiting to uncoil as this wine develops in the bottle.

Pinot Noir – Estate – 2010 (18 – 18.5). A gorgeous nose here that evolves and entices in the glass. The palate is elegant, textured, balanced and fine. The fruit is supple, yet ripe and the length and mouth-feel are spot on. The quality oak frames the fruit perfectly and adds to the appeal.

Pinot Noir – Premium – 2010 (18.5). A superb wine! The quality fruit is complex, balanced and textured and the length and power are in another dimension. This is relatively tannic and tight, the new oak adding grip and texture. The structure does, however sit beautifully with the fruit. Whist this is more approachable than the 2009, I would still recommend time in the cellar.

Bindi

Chardonnay – Quartz – 2010 (18.2). A superb nose that is a harmonious blend of quality fruit, oak and barrel ferment/lees characters. The palate is tight and fine, yet the underlying power of the fruit is undeniable. The acid and the oak suppress the fruit now, but with air this becomes rich, textured and very long.

Pinot Noir – Composition – 2010 (17). Fresh and supple fruit with decent length and weight. Uncomplicated and a good drink.

Pinot Noir – Original Vineyard – 2010 (18). More restrained, with darker fruits, cherry and lovely earthy/forest floor characters. The palate is dense, structured, and tight. I suggest pairing this with food if you are going to drink it now.

Pinot Noir – Block 5 Vineyard – 2010 (18.5). Intense fruit and lovely structure to this. The latent power tantalizes and tempts. I would like to give this up to 10 years in the cellar.

Craiglee

Chardonnay – 2009 (18). Complex and worked, this is a rich and creamy style of wine with great appeal. The palate is taut and fine and there are quality winemaking inputs. The balance is excellent and the oak (25% new) should settle down with a year in the bottle.

Crawford River

It is very refreshing to see a winery selling wine with some bottle age. The current release for the cabernet is 2005 and the cab/merlot 2006. The extra age added a delicious degree of drinkability. I tried these wines late in the tasting, so I have not reviewed them here. I do hope to be reacquainted with them soon though, as the quality was excellent!

Dalwhinnie

I have loved the wines from this producer for a long time and they are built to last. Although not tasted here, the chardonnay also does well in the cellar.

Cabernet Sauvignon – (18.5). 2010 Spectacular wine! Classic cabernet fruit showing mint and hints of red fruits. The structure is outstanding and the palate displays tremendous power, yet at the same time being tight and restrained. The balance is outstanding and the saying “iron fist in a velvet glove” comes to mind. Although the shiraz gets all the hype with this producer, this may well be the wine of the entire tasting.

Jasper Hill

Like Crawford River, I came to the superb wines of Jasper Hill late in the tasting. The quality of both the whites and reds are outstanding. I can only hope to try these wines again as they are a worthy addition to any cellar.

Moorooduc Estate

Chardonnay – 2011 (17.5+). Tight and restrained, with citrus and melon fruit characters. Taut and fine, the palate is near seamless. Partial (60%) malo-lactic fermentation preserves the acidity in what was a warmer year. Plenty of potential to improve with a few years in the cellar, but if you are going to drink it now, don’t serve it too cold.

Chardonnay – 2010 (18). The fruit here has opened up a bit more, with melon, pineapple and lovely citrus acidity. The palate is rich, complex and nicely textured. The creamy finish complements the fruit superbly (from lees and oak influences). A great drink.

Chardonnay – The Moorooduc – 2010 (18+). A richer, bigger wine than the Estate, with more power on the palate. The length is notable.

Pinot Noir – The Moorooduc – 2010 (18+). Wow, lovely perfume to the bright fruit, though the concentrated power is hinted at. Cherry and strawberry fruit initially on the palate, with a quality oak backbone. With air, the palate really opens up, fills out and evolves, becoming complex and long.

Tarrawarra Estate

I must confess that I have been a fan of this operation for a very long time. Year in, year out, their pinots have always done well in any tasting they have appeared in.

Chardonnay – Reserve – 2010 (18 pts). Complex, nutty/almond meal and mineral complexity over creamy oak, lees and barrel ferment aromas. The palate is tight, restrained and very fine, though the fruit builds to show melon and peach characters. The lack of malo-lactic fermentation here contributes to this modern expression of Australian chardonnay.

Pinot Noir – Estate – 2010 (18). Fragrant, balanced, gentle and textured. The sweet, ripe fruit has been expertly matched to the quality oak. Good now, but will be better in 2-3 years.

Pinot Noir – Reserve – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Greater depth to the fruit compared to the Estate. There is still the sweet fruit and lovely balance, but there is just more depth and a touch of grip to the finish. Supple, long and fine, the silky oak frames the fruit beautifully.

Yeringberg

Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.5). Perfumed and balanced fruit on the nose. The fragrant fruit continues on the palate, with cherry, and a touch of toast courtesy of the oak. Good length and texture on the finish.

Cabernet Blend – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Concentrated nose showing mint, cedar, mulberry and spice. Long and tight, the palate has fantastic fruit that is dense, restrained, long and tight. A lovely wine with superb structure on the finish. Only 13% alcohol, and all the better for it.

Shiraz – 2010 (18). Pepper, clove, cinnamon and restrained fruit on the nose. This has marvellous texture and mouth-feel. The fruit is really supple, spicy and textured. Delicious.

Reviewed: 9 August 2012

I was recently asked to write the tasting notes for the Picardy newsletter and I must say that this was a very enjoyable task. The curent crop of wines are as good as any that the winery has made.

Within a strong line up, the 2011 chardonnay is a superstar and deserves to be considered amoungst Australias finest.

NB. This was not a blind tasting. All wines are closed with cork.

Reviewed

Picardy – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2012. (17.5). Very pale colour, reflecting the recent bottling. The nose displays lovely citrus and tropical fruit aromas. On the palate, the wine combines grassy complexity with lemon and zesty lime. With air, the tropical fruit subsides and the palate displays an almost ethereal character. There are subtle talc and musk characters over lemony acidity that contribute to excellent persistence on the finish. Pristine fruit is what defines this wine, though subtle winemaking influences add texture and complexity. This will prove an excellent drink this summer and the next.

Picardy – Chardonnay – 2011 (18.5). Pale straw colour. Delicate and perfumed, there are gentle peach aromas over subtle grapefruit and lemon zest characters. An elegant wine that speaks of high quality fruit yet possesses a lovely creamy character courtesy of very slick winemaking. The palate is superb. The high quality fruit is restrained and taut, yet remarkably intense. With air, the fruit really builds and is perfectly complemented by fine-grained French oak that adds texture and mouth-feel without dominating the flavour. The length is outstanding, with hints of pineapple. The balanced citrus acidity confers drive to the near seamless finish. A complete and elegant wine that, whilst lovely now, will be even better in 2 -3 years. Comparable to good Burgundy, but at a fraction of the price, this deserves to be included amongst Western Australia’s finest chardonnays.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Pannell Family – 2010 (16.6). A lighter hue compared to the other pinots in the range, but still with good extraction. Good balance between ripe, strawberry/cherry fruit and savoury, earthy components that add complexity. The palate is very approachable showing fruit that is soft and round. Structural components are very much in the background while there are hints of smokiness/toasty oak on the finish that is common with Pemberton pinots. Not an overly complex wine, but an easy-drinking style for early consumption.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.7). More intensity compared to the Pannell Family pinot. The colour is richer, whist the bouquet is more restrained. This has hints of spice over dense cherry fruit. The palate is quite earthy, with a core of rich fruit that speaks of dark cherries, licorice, cinnamon and forest floor highlights. The greater fruit weight on the palate is matched to deftly handled oak and fine tannins. The finish is long and fine, with a rich vein of fruit running the full length of the palate. A wine of real presence that drinks well now, but needs several years to show its best.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2010 (18 – 18.5) . The colour is more intense again, but paradoxically, the fruit is more restrained and fine than the standard pinot. The nose is an evolving feast of cherry fruit, tea, cinnamon and spice. There is pristine, high quality fruit on a palate that has a lovely silky texture. The wine is involving and fine, with the quality fruit the main attraction. Tannins are very fine, while the acidity adds drive to the finish. The oak adds structural support, but is in no way dominant. Whist this has the potential to evolve in the bottle for several years, it is superb drinking now. Burgundian in style.

Picardy – Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – 2010 (17.8). Mulberry, redcurrant, mint and hints of plum on the nose with a touch of chocolate and vanillin oak. The palate has a degree of fleshy fruit, but the structure and refinement confer a degree of elegance. The chocolaty oak, silky tannins and acid carry the finish well. The textural components build with air and the wine develops a slightly chewy finish. The perfect foil to roast meats now, 5 – 10 years in the cellar will be well rewarded.

Picardy – Shiraz – 2010 (18). I like this a lot. Black pepper, dark fruits, cinnamon, spice, aniseed and tar are all expressed on the nose. The palate follows with more of the savoury characters over Satsuma plum. The fruit and oak tannins add nicely to the mouth-feel and there is a touch of coffee and oak on a finish that highlights the quality dark fruit characters. This really needs a couple of years to come together, so give it some air if you are going to drink it soon. For me, this is the bargain in the range.

Reviewed: 4th August 2012

Paul Lapsley, the senior winemaker at Hardys was in town this week to show off a cross-section of his newest release wines. The wines were fantastic.

Despite the size of Hardys and associated wineries (Houghton, Amberly etc.), there was a clear house-style in evidence. The best wines all showed remarkable restraint, balance and elegance. Refinement is the key here and the result is superb.

For me, the bargain of the range was the Siegersdorf riesling. Absolutely delicious yet capable of aging for some time. The surprise for me was the Eileen Hardy pinot noir. A wine full of life and a great example of the style. In a superb line up, the Thomas Hardy was, ultimately, my favourite. Superb stuff.

NB. This was not a blind tasting, so my points are a guide only.

Reviewed

Hardys – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Sir James – 2007 (17.5). Very fine mousse on this. There is a complex nose that has lemon and red fruits over lees and autolysis notes. The balance on the palate is excellent, with the acidity deftly balancing the dosage. The length is excellent and the finish is clean and drying, with very good palate feel. This is a blend of Yarra Valley and Tasmanian fruit. The wine spent four years on lees and went though 100% malo-lactic fermentation.

Hardys – Riesling – Siegersdorf – 2012 (17.7). Lovely, though delicate limey fruit that has floral highlights. Perfume and almost musk characters follow on the palate. Seamless, fine, long, intense and sublime, this is totally delicious, but is worthy of a bit of bottle age. Lacks the concentration/acidity of the greatest, but this is a cracking wine to drink now and a bargain to boot.

Hardys – Riesling – HRB/D650 – 2011 (18). More steely and taut than the Siegersdorf. Stony minerality and a suggestion of lime teases the nose. The palate is tight and restrained. This is not austere, it is very shy. This wine will evolve and improve for many years and hold for many more.

Hardys – Chardonnay – Nottage Hill – 2011 (16.3). Smells like chardonnay, tastes like chardonnay. A remarkable wine for the price, this has reasonable quality fruit that has been expertly made. Even the hint of oak works well.

Hardys – Chardonnay – HRB/D651 – 2010 (17.8). Lovely nose with delicate, peachy fruit over complex, lees, barrel ferment and oak influences. The palate is complex, long, fine and elegant. The balance and texture are a highlight. This is a very elegant style that has great appeal, but I would like to leave it for a few years to show its best. A blend of fruit from Pemberton and the Yarra Valley.

Hardys – Chardonnay – Eileen Hardy – 2010 (18/18.5). This is a superb wine. Complex, refined, balanced and extraordinarily fine. The balance between the oak and fruit is superb. The subtlety on display means that 3 – 5 years would only help this to flesh out. The high quality oak has been well judged and the length is a highlight. Deserves its reputation as one of Australia’s finest.

Hardys – Pinot Noir – Eileen Hardy – 2010 (18). Lovely fragrant fruit that has cherry and berry fruit. This is a very appealing wine. Excellent quality fruit that has been massaged expertly. The mouth-feel is excellent while the finish is long and savoury. An excellent wine with life, energy and drive. Deserves the Eileen Hardy name. (Made from MV6 clone and had partial whole bunch fermentation and 25% new oak).

Hardys – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thomas Hardy – 2010 (18.5). Wow, I like this. Another elegant and refined wine with real class. This is tight and restrained, but the balance and texture is superb. The perfectly ripe fruit has been given royal treatment. The balance makes this near seamless in the mouth. Gorgeous fruit, expertly handled.

Hardys – Shiraz – HRB/D646 – 2008 (17.7). Lovely nose here. The refinement and balance really stand out. The palate is flooded by ripe fruit, though the finish is quite tight, lean and savoury. Really long in the palate, the fruit, oak and tannins meld really well. This just needs a few years for the fruit to fully express itself.

Hardys – Shiraz – Eileen Hardy – 2007 (18.3). Lovely fruit, though this is a touch leaner than other vintages. Again, balance and refinement are the key to this wine. Delicate aniseed and coffee over subtle black fruits and hints of forest floor. This builds in the glass and gets really interesting. As with all the wines under the Eileen Hardy banner, the tannin management is superb! The length on the finish is exceptional.

Reviewed: 1 March 2012

A couple of weeks ago, all the wines reviewed here were available at either Liquorland or Woolworths for $4.00 – $5.00 per bottle. I had to find out for my self if the wines were actually drinkable.

I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised.

Let me make one thing clear, these are not great wines. What they are is tremendous value. The De Bortoli shiraz/cabernet in particular is an absolute bargain. I would not hesitate in having a glass if it were offered to me.

NB. It is very important to get the exact wines mentioned here, as there is significant variation within each range.

Reviewed

De Bortoli – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Sacred Hill – 2010 (16.7). Quality fruit on the nose and palate. This is dense and textured, with mint over plummy fruit. Chewy tannins to close. This is a smart wine that has been very well made. Bargain!

Whispers – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (16.5). More structure here. The nose is subdued, but there is reasonable fruit quality. Slightly chewy textural components fill out the finish. Well made and interesting enough to make a reasonable mid-week drink.

De Bortoli – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Sacred Hill – 2009 (16.2). Not much on the nose, but quite an attractive palate, with fresh berry fruit and a soft, lingering finish. There is a touch of oak to close and some menthol fruit develops.

Mc William’s – Shiraz/Merlot – Inheritance – 2010 (16.2). Another solid effort that combines reasonable fruit with very good handling. Length is good and the tannins are remarkably fine for a wine of this price. The flavours linger with plump fruit and a touch of candy.

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Rawsons Retreat – 2010 (16). Attractive nose that shows red fruits, plum and spice. Bright fruit that is more primary, with savoury, almost sappy characters to close. A touch of oak too.

Warburn Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Gossips – 2011 (16.2). Tropical fruit and grassy notes. Lemony acid adds life. This is fresh, vibrant and a good drink to boot.

Hardys – Chardonnay – R&R – 2010 (16). Some peach on the nose. Peach fruit on the palate with a touch of viscosity and refreshing finish. Flavours linger and there is even a hint of oak. Commercial, but so what. You also get a one litre bottle!

Penfolds – Chardonnay – Rawsons Retreat – 2011 (16). Toasty oak and a touch of lees combine with fruit that is actually of reasonable quality. Not complex, but good length.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – Rawsons Retreat – 2011 (16). Quite a savoury, old-fashioned nose. Relatively lean fruit, but the flavours linger on the finish.

Mc William’s – Riesling – Inheritance – 2010 (15.5). Fresh, sherbet-like nose of some interest. Good acidity and a touch of zest on the palate with good line and length. 3 bronze medals.

Reviewed – 11 October 2011

Christie Schulz, the proprietor of Turkey Flats was in town the other day to show off her current range of wines. I took the opportunity to catch up and try the range as I have been a fan for a long time.

The Schulz family have been growing grapes in the Barossa for over 150 years. Indeed, shiraz was planted on the property in 1846! In more recent times, the current generation moved from grape growers to winemakers, and have expanded the vineyard holdings in the process. All fruit used is estate grown.

This was not a blind tasting so, as always, take my points with a grain of salt.

These wines are a bargain! They represent the best of the Barossa, but at a fraction of the price of other celebrated producers.

Reviewed

Turkey Flats – Marsanne/Viognier/Rousanne – Butcher’s Block – 2010 (17). A lovely nose of stonefruit and apricot nectar. This wine is medium bodied, though with enough savoury components to make it an excellent drink. The texture is a highlight.

Turkey Flats – Grenache/Shiraz/Carignan – Rose – 2011 (17.3). Fresh and vibrant, with bright red fruits and pretty rose water accents. The palate is juicy, succulent, savoury and long. The finish is refreshingly dry (5g/l residual sugar). One of my favourite Australian Roses.

Turkey Flats – Grenache – 2008 (17.5+). This has beautiful perfume on the nose. The palate is succulent and the fruit delicious. There are black fruits, chocolate, coffee and a touch of savoury oak. There are very fine tannins and a long finish. Perhaps a touch warm on the finish, but otherwise and excellent wine.

Turkey Flats – Shiraz/Grenache/Mouvedre – Butchers Block – 2009 (17.5+). I really liked this wine. It has a complex nose with coffee, chocolate and ripe red fruits. The palate is savoury and spicy, with real depth to the quality fruit. Chewy tannins to close make for an excellent food wine. Drink now or in ten years.

Turkey Flats – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18- 18.5). Lovely nose here. Yes, there are ripe red fruits, but the structure is superb. Mint, eucalypt, perfume and fragrant violets define the nose. The texture is spot on and the palate is dense and very long. This was a big surprise to me as it is an elegant wine that defies its warmer region origin. A great example of Barossa cabernet!

Turkey Flats – Shiraz – 2009 (18.5). Fragrant and spicy nose, this is still a touch reserved. The palate is tight and firm, but the depth of flavour is a revelation. Remarkably elegant and refined, this has superb mouth-feel and texture, and the length is spot on. The fruit for this wine came from vineyards in Bethany and Stonewell.